Tosh

It seems there's an epidemic of idle speed related problems that are caused by a dirty or sticking or defective IAC valve. I'm getting a bit of a stumbling idle on my 2001 CL-S, and I want to clean the IAC valve.
A long time ago, after the car had sat for almost a week during cold weather, when I started it up, it started surging between about 600 and 2500 RPM. I called the dealer and headed toward there, but by the time I got there it had cleared itself and never happened again. But the service writer said that it was most likely the IAC valve, but he wouldn't change it unless he could duplicate the problem. And now it's out of warranty....
So, it looks like I need to remove the battery to get to it, but I would rather have someone who knows how to do it describe the proper procedure. And pics would be a big help. I even think this could be a Sticky. Thanks!

Tosh

scalbert

One easy way may be to spray some carb cleaner into the TB while it is running. It might stall on you but doing this a few times should help.

SiGGy

On my GF's Mitsubishi galant I took apart throttle body and cleaed it out with carb cleaner. Took me about 2 hours.

I haven't had to do the CLS yet...

fender4

or first fill up at chevon and put in a bottle of chevon techoline (sp) injector cleaner... After one tank I bet your problem will go away..

scalbert

If it is the IAC then a fuel additive won't help. Fuel doesn't get anywhere near the TB.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

I took the tb off & sprayed carb cleaner all over it. It helped for a few days, then the car ran tha same again. I think mine is bad.

If the IAC is bad would it send a code? I have no codes on my car stored or otherwise.

fender4

Yaaaa,,, I know I was just trying to fix the easy things first..

scalbert

If it completely failed or was seriously bad it would set a code.

Tosh

First of all, it looks like the battery may have to come out to get to the IAC valve....
Anyone with firsthand experience in cleaning it?

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

:sqnteek:

The IAC value is attached to the TB. The TB comes off then the IAC comes off the TB, or you can try to get it off the TB while it's still on the car. The air hose & some conencters get moved, the throttle cable gets taken off & then just unbolt the TB. It's rather easy.

Tosh

It seems easiest to just leave the TB in place, right? So if I don't want to remove the TB and all the hoses, will I need to remove the battery first? Otherwise it doesn't look like there's room for the IAC valve to come off....?
Fuzzy, you say it's rather easy, but it doesn't seem that you were actually successful in cleaning the IAC valve. You just sprayed carb cleaner all over...
I think I would like more detailed instructions.

sundance_gold

What does it cost to have someone (the dealer) replace the IAC?

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

It's a $85 part plus labor.

Spraying carb cleaner on it is the way to clean it. I also used a q-tip. After you take the TB off, you can remove the IAC valve.

Tosh

Wouldn't I be better off removing only the IAC valve from the throttle body without removing the whole TB from the intake?

KeepMeRunning

That is what I did and I spent 30 minutes cleaning the IACV with Brake Cleaner, GumOut, and then PB Blaster. I assembled it back on the bottom of the TB, but when I started it up, NO LUCK! Now I am going to have to take it off again and try to disassemble it completely. I could not get the star screws of the plastic unit the first time. This, or I just succumb and throw a $100 down the drain!

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

Iacv are finicky. I have never successfully cleaned one and had it work for more than a week before going back to square one :-(

I'd buy a new one if it happened to my CL what that track record.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

^ same. I've cleaned one and it was never the same. I've never dissassembled it though.

KeepMeRunning: you can take a disc and score a line in the star screws then use a flat head driver.

Scottyknows007

I cleaned mine with some carb cleaner like 6 months ago and after that it idled rough, it would bounce above 1000 rpms and then below. When I would come up to a stop and put down the clutch it would act like it was going to die.

I ended up taking it apart again, replacing that little gasket and found that the carb cleaner made the little piston inside stick.

I soaked in in some WD40 and then dried it out, and everything ran like new.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

Finally a success story.. I wish i tried that on my pos ford probelm 7 years ago... That thing would not idle worth shit.

Yes I called it the Probelm

Went through three motors two transmissions three alternators, a rad, brake lines failed while driving.

Do I ever appreciate the CL

Ness

WHAT is "TB" ????

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

What is the context of your question and to whom are you responding?

TB often means, "Tom Brady"
TB often means, "Tampa Bay"
TB often means, "Timing Belt"
TB often means, "Throttle Body"

whitetiger5

LOL...because our new members would be coming here to talk about Tom Brady, right?

Ness, TB: Throttle Body. If you're looking for some info on Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) cleaning, I found a couple posts using google.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-p...l-help-881808/
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-d...-motor-458330/