No Cruise Control!
08-05-2009, 11:52 PM
#1
No Cruise Control!
Just picked up a 2002 TL S with 136K and promptly looked for a good Acura forum. This one looked like the best so I'm sure some one will come through.
There are a few minor (hopefully) things to fix on the car.
The first is the lack of cruise control. The little green light comes on when the cruise button on the dash is pushed but nothing happens when I push the set button on the steering wheel. Bad switch maybe?
The second is no indicator lights by the shifter. Is there a bulb to replace?
The last one is the radio asks for the code but nothing happens when you enter it. I already found a couple threads for this one so hopefully I can resolve it with the info there.
Thanks for the help.
There are a few minor (hopefully) things to fix on the car.
The first is the lack of cruise control. The little green light comes on when the cruise button on the dash is pushed but nothing happens when I push the set button on the steering wheel. Bad switch maybe?
The second is no indicator lights by the shifter. Is there a bulb to replace?
The last one is the radio asks for the code but nothing happens when you enter it. I already found a couple threads for this one so hopefully I can resolve it with the info there.
Thanks for the help.
08-06-2009, 07:29 AM
#2
Senior Moderator
Welcome to the forum..
Cruise. Does the Cruise control light up in your speedo cluster? If not with your let foot while driving take it and pull the brake up. Sometimes the brake switch needs adjusting replacing (also check that your brake lights work)
Yes just a light. Pop the covers off and get a needle nose pliers and pull the bulb out and replace it.
Radio, Try disconnecting the antenna from it then try entering the code.
Cruise. Does the Cruise control light up in your speedo cluster? If not with your let foot while driving take it and pull the brake up. Sometimes the brake switch needs adjusting replacing (also check that your brake lights work)
Yes just a light. Pop the covers off and get a needle nose pliers and pull the bulb out and replace it.
Radio, Try disconnecting the antenna from it then try entering the code.
08-06-2009, 01:49 PM
#3
2006 NBP TL MT6/ 02TL-S
Also, on the cruise problem-there is a problem some cars (like mine) develop with the grounding in the clockspring behind the steering wheel. It can affect any or all of the controls on the steering wheel-horn, cruise set buttons, and radio controls.
If some of those don't work, try them (without wrecking) with the steering wheel turned away to either side of the straight ahead position-if the stuff works then, you have this problem. There is a service bulletin on fixing it.
If some of those don't work, try them (without wrecking) with the steering wheel turned away to either side of the straight ahead position-if the stuff works then, you have this problem. There is a service bulletin on fixing it.
08-06-2009, 05:09 PM
#4
Senior Moderator
Also, on the cruise problem-there is a problem some cars (like mine) develop with the grounding in the clockspring behind the steering wheel. It can affect any or all of the controls on the steering wheel-horn, cruise set buttons, and radio controls.
If some of those don't work, try them (without wrecking) with the steering wheel turned away to either side of the straight ahead position-if the stuff works then, you have this problem. There is a service bulletin on fixing it.
If some of those don't work, try them (without wrecking) with the steering wheel turned away to either side of the straight ahead position-if the stuff works then, you have this problem. There is a service bulletin on fixing it.
08-06-2009, 07:05 PM
#6
check the connector harness at the cruise control unit.
if the side engine mount or timing belt was done the cruise control unit needs to be moved out of the way. peek under the hood and make sure its plugged in.
if the side engine mount or timing belt was done the cruise control unit needs to be moved out of the way. peek under the hood and make sure its plugged in.
08-16-2009, 09:35 AM
#7
Thanks again folks. Radio and shift lite fixes went great. Still no cruise. I'm going to check the connector that mlassek recommended.
Also added a Blitzsafe interface so I could connect the iPhone. Got lucky on this one cuz there was an extra 14 pin slot in the back of the head unit! Still have full function of CD player!
Also added a Blitzsafe interface so I could connect the iPhone. Got lucky on this one cuz there was an extra 14 pin slot in the back of the head unit! Still have full function of CD player!
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08-25-2009, 11:00 PM
#8
Well I solved the cruise control problem. The plastic retainer that accepts the cruise control cable into the throttle body linkage had broke. I did an ABS plastic repair and its good as new.
There was no way to buy that piece. I would have had to purchase the whole throttle body at about $500. So the cost of some Oakleys ABS plastic cement was just a bit more cost effective.
I snapped some pics but apparently I'm not yet worthy to post them.
This car turned out to be a good buy. Thanks to the help of this forum and a little more trouble shooting on my own, all the minor repairs were done for next to nothing and it runs great.
Thanks again.
There was no way to buy that piece. I would have had to purchase the whole throttle body at about $500. So the cost of some Oakleys ABS plastic cement was just a bit more cost effective.
I snapped some pics but apparently I'm not yet worthy to post them.
This car turned out to be a good buy. Thanks to the help of this forum and a little more trouble shooting on my own, all the minor repairs were done for next to nothing and it runs great.
Thanks again.
08-26-2009, 07:25 AM
#9
Senior Moderator
Well I solved the cruise control problem. The plastic retainer that accepts the cruise control cable into the throttle body linkage had broke. I did an ABS plastic repair and its good as new.
There was no way to buy that piece. I would have had to purchase the whole throttle body at about $500. So the cost of some Oakleys ABS plastic cement was just a bit more cost effective.
I snapped some pics but apparently I'm not yet worthy to post them.
This car turned out to be a good buy. Thanks to the help of this forum and a little more trouble shooting on my own, all the minor repairs were done for next to nothing and it runs great.
Thanks again.
There was no way to buy that piece. I would have had to purchase the whole throttle body at about $500. So the cost of some Oakleys ABS plastic cement was just a bit more cost effective.
I snapped some pics but apparently I'm not yet worthy to post them.
This car turned out to be a good buy. Thanks to the help of this forum and a little more trouble shooting on my own, all the minor repairs were done for next to nothing and it runs great.
Thanks again.
on the fixOh and to post pictures, check out the link.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-photograph-gallery-99/%2A%2A%2Ainstructions-posting-pictures%2A%2A%2A-573134/
09-06-2009, 10:13 AM
#11
No problem. Here's a couple pics of the throttle body after I already started disassembling the linkage. The broke piece is still in place. It's a bit tricky getting it back together. All the conponents, washers, and spacers need to go back together in just the right order. When I first reassembled I had a washer flipped the wrong way (concave surface reversed). It went back together but the linkage was sticky. Very subtle thing to miss.
Here's some pics showing the problem and the repair:
To repair the piece, which is ABS plastic, I used standard ABS plastic cement (used for assembling ABS plumbing components) available at any hardware store. I cleaned the repair area with standard plastic pipe primer then taped a piece of flat non-ABS plastic to the side to form a dam to hold the cement. After a couple coats and 48 hours of drying, I carefully removed the form and excess cement.
Sure is nice to have cruise back.
Feel free to contact me if you need any help with it.
Here's some pics showing the problem and the repair:
To repair the piece, which is ABS plastic, I used standard ABS plastic cement (used for assembling ABS plumbing components) available at any hardware store. I cleaned the repair area with standard plastic pipe primer then taped a piece of flat non-ABS plastic to the side to form a dam to hold the cement. After a couple coats and 48 hours of drying, I carefully removed the form and excess cement.
Sure is nice to have cruise back.
Feel free to contact me if you need any help with it.
09-16-2009, 04:04 PM
#15
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abs plastic cement
Would I find this cement in the plumbing section?
No problem. Here's a couple pics of the throttle body after I already started disassembling the linkage. The broke piece is still in place. It's a bit tricky getting it back together. All the conponents, washers, and spacers need to go back together in just the right order. When I first reassembled I had a washer flipped the wrong way (concave surface reversed). It went back together but the linkage was sticky. Very subtle thing to miss.
Here's some pics showing the problem and the repair:
To repair the piece, which is ABS plastic, I used standard ABS plastic cement (used for assembling ABS plumbing components) available at any hardware store. I cleaned the repair area with standard plastic pipe primer then taped a piece of flat non-ABS plastic to the side to form a dam to hold the cement. After a couple coats and 48 hours of drying, I carefully removed the form and excess cement.
Sure is nice to have cruise back.
Feel free to contact me if you need any help with it.
Here's some pics showing the problem and the repair:
To repair the piece, which is ABS plastic, I used standard ABS plastic cement (used for assembling ABS plumbing components) available at any hardware store. I cleaned the repair area with standard plastic pipe primer then taped a piece of flat non-ABS plastic to the side to form a dam to hold the cement. After a couple coats and 48 hours of drying, I carefully removed the form and excess cement.
Sure is nice to have cruise back.
Feel free to contact me if you need any help with it.
09-17-2009, 07:55 AM
#17
Senior Moderator
09-17-2009, 07:55 AM
#18
Senior Moderator
09-18-2009, 06:58 AM
#20
Yes. Just make sure its ABS cement. It will be black in color. Also, the stuff is pretty thick but to help it hold its shape more while setting up, you can let some air dry and thicken more before applying.
Also, do not use two part epoxy as recommended in the above post. It does not bond well to ABS plastic.
Also, do not use two part epoxy as recommended in the above post. It does not bond well to ABS plastic.
Last edited by IllinoisREI; 09-18-2009 at 07:01 AM.
02-28-2010, 04:22 PM
#21
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Repair in place (no disassembly required)
Thanks for this great information! I also have the broken 'yoke' but did not want to disassemble the assembly. I got the ABS cleaner and cement, and also picked up a small piece of ABS pipe. From this pipe, I cut a "T" which I cemented in place to keep the cable from popping out. The following is a very crude picture of how this worked. The "C" represents the cable 'head', the "T" represents my custom cable stop, the "i" represent the cable wire and the "|" represent the left and right walls of the 'cable channel'. This view is from the top.
| |
C
|T|
|i |
|i |
I was lucky in that my break was perpendicular to the direction of the cable channel, thus allowing me to use a "T". Obviously if the break is at a different angle, you could use a different shaped "T"
Once I had the "T" cut out and shaped, I put ABS cement in the area of the cable channel that the long side of the T would sit in, slid the T in place, and held it there using a pencil wedged between the engine and the T. I let it dry a bit, dabbed more cement onto the T, and did this several times. Eventually I removed the pencil and kept applying more cement.
I'm letting this dry as I type this but wanted to let others know about this.
(And, to ask the obvious...if this happens to so many people, why isn't this part available from Acura or other OEM parts suppliers?)
| |
C
|T|
|i |
|i |
I was lucky in that my break was perpendicular to the direction of the cable channel, thus allowing me to use a "T". Obviously if the break is at a different angle, you could use a different shaped "T"
Once I had the "T" cut out and shaped, I put ABS cement in the area of the cable channel that the long side of the T would sit in, slid the T in place, and held it there using a pencil wedged between the engine and the T. I let it dry a bit, dabbed more cement onto the T, and did this several times. Eventually I removed the pencil and kept applying more cement.
I'm letting this dry as I type this but wanted to let others know about this.
(And, to ask the obvious...if this happens to so many people, why isn't this part available from Acura or other OEM parts suppliers?)
06-09-2010, 05:33 AM
#23
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i dont have a functioning cruise control on my 03 TL-S either..after i hit the main swith the LED lights up on it, but when trying to SET it on the steering wheel - nothing happens (no indication on the dash either).
About to go start figuring this out...will keep you guys posted
About to go start figuring this out...will keep you guys posted
06-12-2010, 06:50 PM
#24
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so, i have visually inspected some of the components, well, first of all the fuse is good, mechanical linkage is good too (including that plastic piece IllinoisREI mentioned), im thinking it has to be electrical, cuz ive seen some splices in the wiring which i Don't trust. Anybody knows where can i get electrical diagram for cruise control circuit?
06-16-2010, 02:41 PM
#27
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I had the same problem as you RusTL and took it to my mechanic expecting a big problem. But he said it was just a loose connector so I was kicking myself for not checking it out first. So check those connections and you should be able to find something loose.
06-16-2010, 06:55 PM
#28
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Thanks DaveG, this definitely holds true, checking the connectors and stuff like that.
So i went in there today to inspect some wiring, and guess what! all the way up in there, stuffed above the cruise module i find VIPER alarm module!! (which i knew nothing about, since i am using the key to open the car).
The problem is, a lot of essential wiring is ran through the module, or been tapped into other wiring in the weirdest way possible. To top if off, all the wiring is cut in a barbaric kind of way.. so now got more stuff to figure out.
So i went in there today to inspect some wiring, and guess what! all the way up in there, stuffed above the cruise module i find VIPER alarm module!! (which i knew nothing about, since i am using the key to open the car).
The problem is, a lot of essential wiring is ran through the module, or been tapped into other wiring in the weirdest way possible. To top if off, all the wiring is cut in a barbaric kind of way.. so now got more stuff to figure out.
07-07-2010, 12:07 PM
#29
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My 2003 TL just broke the CC connection as well - but the cable got stuck behind the throttle blade control when i was merging on the highway. Not a fun experience. I have an appointment with my local dealer tomorrow for them to investigate it - but i am glad to hear others are experiencing this issue as well.
07-08-2010, 05:59 PM
#30
i have this problem as well. I I fold the CC cable back n attached it to its self for now. It was causing my engine to rev high at idle upto 2 even 3K sometimes when the engine would get hot after some spirited driving. I would appreciate a detailed write up wit pics if u have for how fixing the CC linkage.
07-12-2010, 12:47 AM
#31
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reilinjw- keep us posted on how it goes ok.
i got my nonfunctioning CC checked out- the weirdest thing, all electrical connections are good, i dont know whats wrong.. i was able to solve the CC problem on my other TL by throwing parts at it off of a donor car, but this time this isnt the case
also, got my VIPER alarm wiring figured out, but had a tough time programming a replacement remote. For those of you ever programming a VIPER 5901 remote: even if you follow the instuctions precisely you will FAIL because there is a certain time limit to program which manufacturer doesnt mention. what you wanna do is get your REMOTE ready first, and then follow the instructions quick, that way you have enough time to complete it.
i got my nonfunctioning CC checked out- the weirdest thing, all electrical connections are good, i dont know whats wrong.. i was able to solve the CC problem on my other TL by throwing parts at it off of a donor car, but this time this isnt the case
also, got my VIPER alarm wiring figured out, but had a tough time programming a replacement remote. For those of you ever programming a VIPER 5901 remote: even if you follow the instuctions precisely you will FAIL because there is a certain time limit to program which manufacturer doesnt mention. what you wanna do is get your REMOTE ready first, and then follow the instructions quick, that way you have enough time to complete it.
04-30-2011, 11:21 PM
#32
I just purchased a very nice used 2002 TL – S. The Cruise Control is not working. Looked through forums found lots of information. Here is what my problem description is:
Lower Left Dashboard Cruise Button pushed in, Light On.
Instrument Panel light does not come on. Special KUDOS to fsttyms1 and Trackrumer228 for their posts here, especially fsttyms1.
What I have discovered thanks to those people is:
The Instrument Panel light being on or off is determined (assuming a good light) by the cruise brake sensor being adjusted properly. I just went out and determined this by inspecting the brake sensor (seeing how it worked). I had tried fsttyms1’s recommendation of pulling up on the brake pedal but that had not worked; there was no play in my pedal at all. I noticed while inspecting the plunger switch that the plunger did not go ALL the way into its female host. (ALL THE WAY IN = NO BRAKES APPLIED) I taped together 3 pennies and then taped the pennies around the button that makes contact with the plunger; that made the plunger go all the way in. I took the car out for a drive and NOW the instrument panel light is ON but still no cruise.
I will need to inspect the cables tomorrow with a friend. The pics in IllinoisREI’s post are okay if you know what a GOOD one looks like. They’re helpful but only partially. I inspected my Throttle Body this AM and all I could tell was that there are two cables there and things move. I checked the Cruise Control Box (Near The windshield washer fluid) and did notice something interesting. Depending on how much I turned the mechanism to move the cable it did NOT always return to its home position, ALMOST LIKE THE CABLE ON THE OTHER END IS DISCONNECTED??? I will have to check that out in the AM.
Lower Left Dashboard Cruise Button pushed in, Light On.
Instrument Panel light does not come on. Special KUDOS to fsttyms1 and Trackrumer228 for their posts here, especially fsttyms1.
What I have discovered thanks to those people is:
The Instrument Panel light being on or off is determined (assuming a good light) by the cruise brake sensor being adjusted properly. I just went out and determined this by inspecting the brake sensor (seeing how it worked). I had tried fsttyms1’s recommendation of pulling up on the brake pedal but that had not worked; there was no play in my pedal at all. I noticed while inspecting the plunger switch that the plunger did not go ALL the way into its female host. (ALL THE WAY IN = NO BRAKES APPLIED) I taped together 3 pennies and then taped the pennies around the button that makes contact with the plunger; that made the plunger go all the way in. I took the car out for a drive and NOW the instrument panel light is ON but still no cruise.
I will need to inspect the cables tomorrow with a friend. The pics in IllinoisREI’s post are okay if you know what a GOOD one looks like. They’re helpful but only partially. I inspected my Throttle Body this AM and all I could tell was that there are two cables there and things move. I checked the Cruise Control Box (Near The windshield washer fluid) and did notice something interesting. Depending on how much I turned the mechanism to move the cable it did NOT always return to its home position, ALMOST LIKE THE CABLE ON THE OTHER END IS DISCONNECTED??? I will have to check that out in the AM.
09-17-2015, 06:02 PM
#34
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abs is hard to find
The only ABS plastic I could find in my local Orange hardware store was a "P" trap. Turned out ok, since the contour is quite close to that of the broken yoke anyway. I do have 2 concerns tho-
1, the plastic is barely 3/32" thick
2, the only cement was the universal (pvc/cpvc/abs/dwv)
Should I put another "T" on to the reverse of the first for extra strength?
How long has this lasted for anyone else who's used it?
1, the plastic is barely 3/32" thick
2, the only cement was the universal (pvc/cpvc/abs/dwv)
Should I put another "T" on to the reverse of the first for extra strength?
How long has this lasted for anyone else who's used it?
09-17-2015, 08:13 PM
#35
Senior Moderator
The only ABS plastic I could find in my local Orange hardware store was a "P" trap. Turned out ok, since the contour is quite close to that of the broken yoke anyway. I do have 2 concerns tho-
1, the plastic is barely 3/32" thick
2, the only cement was the universal (pvc/cpvc/abs/dwv)
Should I put another "T" on to the reverse of the first for extra strength?
How long has this lasted for anyone else who's used it?
1, the plastic is barely 3/32" thick
2, the only cement was the universal (pvc/cpvc/abs/dwv)
Should I put another "T" on to the reverse of the first for extra strength?
How long has this lasted for anyone else who's used it?
09-17-2015, 08:40 PM
#36
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[QUOTE=fsttyms1;15556742]Personally id walk out in your local salvage yard and pull the gear/cruise sprocket off a car there. [/QUOTE
]
I wish it was that simple... when I got the car (03 CL non-S) last month I searched every junkyard w/in 150miles. There is 1 CL among them and it has extensive front end damage.
Can I grab a throttle body from a similarly yeared/engined TL or anything else?
[/QUOTE]
I wish it was that simple... when I got the car (03 CL non-S) last month I searched every junkyard w/in 150miles. There is 1 CL among them and it has extensive front end damage.
Can I grab a throttle body from a similarly yeared/engined TL or anything else?
09-18-2015, 09:31 PM
#39
The only ABS plastic I could find in my local Orange hardware store was a "P" trap. Turned out ok, since the contour is quite close to that of the broken yoke anyway. I do have 2 concerns tho-
1, the plastic is barely 3/32" thick
2, the only cement was the universal (pvc/cpvc/abs/dwv)
Should I put another "T" on to the reverse of the first for extra strength?
How long has this lasted for anyone else who's used it?
1, the plastic is barely 3/32" thick
2, the only cement was the universal (pvc/cpvc/abs/dwv)
Should I put another "T" on to the reverse of the first for extra strength?
How long has this lasted for anyone else who's used it?
03-23-2016, 02:02 PM
#40
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I'm trying to get the cruise working again on a '99 TL. I took the combo CC/TCS switch out, but not sure how to test, as I don't have a Helms manual for this car. (I have one for 99-04 Odyssey, which is decently helpful for under the hood stuff, but the switch they show is a simple Cruise switch). If anyone can provide a copy of the diagram for testing the combo switch, I'd much appreciate it.
Dave
Dave
