berettashooter25

Hey everybody, I'm kinda new to this site so I'm not sure if this is the right area to post this thread. I bought an '03 CL-S (6-Speed Manual) back in early May and I'm finally starting to become interested in adding mods to it. I'm just curious as to what everyone prefers for the various bolt-on parts.

I currently have an AEM CAI w/ the Dry Flow filter. I have also removed the plastic engine cover on/around my intake plenum in order to help reduce dreaded "heat soak" during the warm months of the year. I also have a ScanGaugeII equipped to my OBD-II outlet, which allows me to read real-time information that is being sent to my ECU (Currently I'm reading intake temp, water temp, throttle position, and RPM). My intake temp stays are 103-115 F while I'm moving over 25mph and raises to 130-140 F when I'm sitting. Any body have any tips to help me achieve ambient air temperature?

I've also been looking into headers and a throttle body spacer. I'm interested in DC Sport headers, due to the fact they are ceramic coated and resist discoloration better than SS. But, DC only lists headers for what appears to be an automatic CL-S. Would the headers for the auto also fit the 6-speed or what type of modification would need to be done to get them to fit? Plus, I would like to know a variety of headers that perform well for the CL-S 6-speed.

Any bolt-ons will help. I'm not sure what the gains are from a throttle body spacer, but I'm sure it is slight (1-3whp). If someone would explain the use of a TBS, I would greatly appreciate it.

I'm open minded to other mods that are not bolt on. I run my own auto shop in KY so I have the ability to do almost anything to the car. Anyone's opinion and help is greatly appreciated

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Outlaw Engineering has a thermo spacer kit. Comes with throttle body and intake manifold. They have charts there to show temp. differences.

Headers for a 6speeed: only comptech makes them now. XS headers were knockoff comptechs but aren't sold anymore...plus they were cheaper quality. They need to have a bend in the rear header to clear the 6speed rear engine mount.

Look into an underdrive lightweight crank pulley. It "frees" power and is a good bang for buck mod. Lighter wheels will help. Exhaust can be pricey for the hp you get from it.

If you own your own shop read the 3.5L swap thread in the frequently asked questions section. It involves a odyssey/mdx crankshaft, rods and RL pistons. That will get you the most hp/tq.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Outlaw engineerings website has been down now for atleast a month. They might have went out of business and you might be stuck with p2r as only option.

anthracitecl

iTrader: (7)

x2 this

like gnuts mentioned, only option for 6spd is ct. If it's pricey for new, just keep an eye on BM for used one. That's how i got mine. If you wanna put DC's, you have to grind off rear mount to fit it in. Other member did that, but i wouldn't do it. If i remember correctly, he grinded off a lot. I'm not comfortable w/that. just my

and i have UR underdrive pulley. only used 2 month. LMK if you are interested.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i have underdrive pulley to for sale as soon as my blower goes in

the other option is supercharger

dfv3.2CL-S

iTrader: (1)

The best is CT SC and a CT headers. Period!! You cant afford charger. CT CAI and Headers

TacoCodeRed

i know this is a little older of a thread but street and anth do either of you still have your pulleys for sale?

if not do you recommend getting one and if yes what brand?

Lumpy

What kind of option do I have for cams & cam pulleys. I have the 03 Cl-s engine, CT sc w/ the 8-9lb pulley set up. Sorry to Hi jack thread, but didnt want to start new one.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

No One Makes Cams That I Know Of. Why Do You Want them? What Are You tuned On?

Lumpy

AEM FIC for the tune. Gude has a listing for them for the 01 03 cl-s. Intake lift 0.400 duration 228. Exhaust 0.400 duration 228. Not sure what the stock specs are. Does anyone know? Looking for a little more power thru the entire rpms. Want to get in the 320-330 range for whp & wtq. sitting at 310 whp & 313 wtq now.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Do You Run Any cooling? That Would Be Best. meth Kit Or Nitrous.

Lumpy

My cooling is a Fluidyne radiator. I had Fluidyne make one for me by sending them my stock radiator specs. Along w/ that I have the cooling fans. Also running the outlaw engineering thermal block gaskets for TB & intake to runners.The AEM FIC took care of the rest of the Idle & warm/ hot start issues by changing my afr from 14.7 to a 13.5ish afr. I thought the cams would be a nice little increase. I will probably have to change my injectors. I'm using rc310 now, thinking of going to the 370-410 range if I do change my cams. Will have to retune on the dyno again also.

Lumpy

Oh, didnt mention. For those of you that didn't know, I have the engine in my 2000 Accord w/ Accord ECU, 4 speed tranny & Accord intake modified.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure those cooling mods help a bit, but adding a meth kit or nitrous would send your numbers way up while decreasing intake temps which will save your engine. Plus they're a lot cheaper.

Sonnick

6 speed swap will be your best mod yet next to the supercharger, and not too far behind. That 4AT may be the worst tranny on the planet (yes, even worse than Ru Paul). You are running solid ETs and traps from your posts on v6pee, (and I forgot if you said anything about the 6MT even being an option), but I assure you that will be better than cams.

But, Bisimoto has cams for the J.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

^ True That. I should Have Said I Don't Know Anyone Who Makes cam pullies.

my user name

I kno this is an old thread but i bought the dc headers from excelerate and hate them it sounds like i drive a civic now and i had to cut a piece off my rearmount just to get them to fit and the exhaust hangers on the down pipe dont match stock..waste of 400

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a 6speed? DC are for auto only. They don't clear the 6speed rear motor mount. There shouldn't be much of a change in exhaust tone. Something is not right.

mattcl-s

where can I find lightweight pulleys from what's the best one to go with?

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

UR pulleys or Ralco. they're the same, ralco is much cheaper.

03CLSMT

4" intake! Makes over 6-7 whp than 3" AEM. My least expensive and fav mod = )

and yes I dynode my car with 4" PVC intake lol

I/h/e 76mm TB TB spacer and pullies 265.6whp

KeoCepcion

I know Manzo makes a header, pretty sure its a knock off of a knock off (XS headers), they're cheap as hell but they look good, except when I got mine I needed to dremel out where the flange was welded to the tubes. Not sure of longevity as of yet though..

InspireJ32A

Will a 4 inch intake make any power over a 3 inch without changing anything else? In terms of throttle body, for example? I'm running a 3-inch CAI, and so far I don't see the point of going to 4 inch. Right now I've got a 70 mm TB, will I see any more power with a 4 inch intake?

Darksyne

I know this is an old thread but perhaps someone can give me some insite on helping my 2000 TL's J32A1 breathe better and I found P2R's site listing that they have Ported Lower Intake Runners for these engines.
You think these will help or is there any advice you can give for modding the intake manifold system for the J32A1 engines? I'm currently running an AEM V2 Intake and a header back exhaust.
https://www.powerrevracing.com/P2R-J...ers-p/p321.htm