smilecow

My car is a 2003 actura tl type-s.

I got these codes P0300,P0301,P0302,P0303,P0304, 0305.
2 weeks ago.

I replaced spark plugs and wire with genuine parts but they came back. I repeated to install and the light usually came back in 1 days..

but the car is like a normal car that doesn't show any thing bad except the lights on.

plz give me some or any advice?

Is it possible that the timing belt is bad, or valve adjustment that I have not done?

thank you so much for your replies

closetprisoner

You replace the wire? or are you talking about the coil pack?

01tl4tl

we dont have spark plug wires

coil packs can be damaged if handled roughly-dropped- banged etc
You used ngk iridium or ngk platinum plugs???--about 8 dollars each

you are getting multi cyl misfire which usually means just 1 coil has failed
50 bucks,,fairly easy diy to figure out which one is bad

after new part installed:
reset the ECU by removing the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash for 1 minute
thats its secret backup power and clears all codes + forces a master relearn to see if all is well

01tl4tl

is it running just a little rough at idle now?

smilecow

thank you for your replies
I am sorry for misleanding. I didn't replace any wire, just the spark plugs which were the genuine parts at dealer. It's not rough at idle at all. It doesn't show any symptom. How can I check which coil is bad?

smilecow

One more question, what is the interval to change the coil pack?
my tl is on 180k

fsttyms1

Coil packs dont need to be replaced unless bad.

Best method is to buy 1 new coil pack start on one side of the motor, replace 1 coil pack with the new one (save the one you pulled off), go to the passenger side dash fuse panel pull the clock backup fuse for 30 seconds and then put back in and drive. If the code comes back, take the new coil pack from the cyl you put it on, and move it to the next cyl and put the old coil (the one said to save) back in its original position and repeat till you find the cyl that is causing the misfire. 99.9% of the time its just 1 pack causing the issue.

01tl4tl

or the cheater method--pull the power lead to one coil at a time, have helper note any rpm change with each one
the coil that doesnt result in rpm drop is the bad one

smilecow

thank you for your advice. I ordered the part so I'll post the result on thrusday.

smilecow

sorry for the late reply. I also got the code p1399 later and the culprit was the coil pack. I replaced the old ones with the 2 new ones and the codes haven't come back yet.

Hope that it will help other people

3.2TLc

Thanks for following up. The misfire codes listed previously can be caused by a couple of different things,
but a faulty coil is usually the culprit and easy to check for.

Trader122312

My 2000 tl has misfire codes for cylinders 1-2-4. NO rough idle I changed plugs to ngk, cleaned egr, tb, iac, and sea foamed the car. I received my new coil pack yesterday and will be movin it around the next couple days hoping to fix the problem. I noticed when I put the new one in it is very snug the old ones are not. Could this be causing a problem. As ive read its a waist to replace just to do it. But getting to the bottom of this misfire needs to happen. I am stumped due to the before mentioned. NO ROUGH IDLE at all.

01tl4tl

try the easy method of coil testing by removing the power lead to each coil one at a time- there will be a slight drop in rpm on the good coils
the bad one wont change!
May need to increase rpm slightly to get the miss/rpm drop to occur

Start with the listed cylinders- the last number of code is cyl #, often one of the listed is the failure, but ck all to be sure

ecu spits multiple codes because its just not certain where the problem is

reminder: its most often 1 coil, possibly 2, don't be tricked into buying 6 for no reason

you may not observe it as `rough idle` because of the special motor mounts we have!

after new coil is installed- reset ecu by pulling the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash of passenger side panel in foot well
for a minute and reinsert

Trader122312

Yea ive had plenty of auto store tell me i need three. Yesterday i swap it a few times.. Intial is 1-2-4. Put new in 4 no change. Then put in #2 it read cylinders 1-4-6. So jus to c i put the new in cylinder 1 going to get code read. But am i right in assuming 2 is bad. And yes i did erase codes each time.

3.2TLc

Welcome Trader122312 !!!
How many miles are on the car ? Have the valves ever been adjusted ?
Were ya getting these same misfire codes prior to the work done ?
How did the old plugs and EGR passageways appear ?

Check the removed coil for signs of wear, such as discoloring or burnt inside.
Try removing the affected coil's electrical connector one at a time and see if the motor's idle rpms change. If coil is good, the rpm will drop. The "bad" one won't change present idle quality. Once the bad coil is replaced, reset the CEL and see if the codes reappear.

Trader122312

The car has 159000. The egr was a little clogged ive cleaned it though. The old plugs were black. As for the valves not sure i bought the car 4 weeks ago as a winter car. Ive tested coils that way however noone to be in the car watching rpms. But i dont notice much difference at engine when disconnectin each one. And the misfire code has been 1-2-4. Look at previous post for the result thus far going up to pull code again with new in #1.

Trader122312

Just recorded my rpms not sure how but there is absolutley no change in rpm on any cylinder

Trader122312

Pulled it with new in #1 misfire 1-2-3-4-5-6. So try the other 3 (3-5-6) or?

3.2TLc

Chances are that if it were a bad coil, it would've been one of the first originally pulled codes.

Trader122312

I took a video of my rpms while unplugging each coil pack. There was only on rpm change and it jumped up a little over one stayed until I plugged the coil back in. Im not sure how its possible to get zero reaction for 5 out of 6 coil packs but this is were im at. Is a valve adjust in order? Or any suggestions. This misfire is holding me back on inspection. driving illegally lol.

TLer trash

I think you should have someone with more experience, or a professional look at it. You should notice a change at every coil. Or maybe it only misfires under load. If somebody who knows what's going on can't feel a misfire, it might be a tight exhaust valve. You're at the mileage where a valve adjustment can cause misfire codes without a hard misfire that you'd notice.

01tl4tl

I am calling in to question your egr cleaning procedure- removed manifold and got the entire length of the passage???????
all the way to the holes under the egr valve itself?
took 3 cans of carb cleaner and a wire coat hanger poked thru the length of manifold?

when doing that job its possible to flip the top most gasket over- it still fits but closes off a port that makes car run funny
Match the gasket to the cover, not the manifold- so all the holes on gasket have an opening that matches! many have made this simple mistake

159kmiles is definitely ready for a valve adjust
Black spark plugs? is it dumping oil into the cylinders? or they had 159kmiles no them?
You are using the correct NGK 8$ each spark plugs?
there is a reason we cant use `2 buck chucks` plugs!!

01tl4tl

good call on that exhaust valve getting tight Trash!

I would seafoam/deep creep (aerosol seafoam) this one thru the TB throat or master vac port.
If the plugs were black, it may be way loaded up with carbon or oil on the pistons and valves = poor combustion, misfires,
Ever see a POS car at the gas station- still running after key shut-off, sounds like a diesel? that's massive carbon loading!!

This is the situation that calls for immediate cleaning of those parts- for testing and diagnosis you need a clean starting point
Poor running starts with poor combustions and tracks back to weak something

If seafoam was used once thru gas tank, its a start but not enough
Needs to be used at 2 ounces per gal fuel or 1 can to just under half tank
1st timers need 2 cans in total to make it like new again
after that its easier- first time has more work to do!

3.2TLc

Recheck all of your previous work as it may be something overlooked.
Make sure that the plugs were properly torqued. Check all the electrical and vac connections.

Pressure check the fuel system and have the electrical system load tested. Maybe an iffy O2 sensor ?

If all else fails, ya may have no choice but to have a pro evaluate the situation to pass your local inspection.

Trader122312

Jus an update i pulled it all back apart rechecking everything. I figure while im in there check the valves. Well both 1-2 which is as far as ive got were atleast .10 off each. 1 was pretty much closed. So i will continue and finish sat mornin. Hoping that this cures my problem.

01tl4tl

use a Go- NoGo feeler gauge for accurate setting
after you do all the valves- recheck each one- its worth it!!
often find one or two still slightly off- it happens while tightening the adjuster lock nut

the exhaust valves usually tighten, and the intakes loosen with time
see our diy for suggested settings to compensate for that

Trader122312

I did the valve adjustment. Ive put about 150 on the car delivering pizza so hard miles. No misfire code so im feeling confident. But I believe my laziness caused a new problem. instead of moving the ps belt out of the way I pryed against it with a wrench to get the timing cover off. Now I have a noisy pump I think I messed up the bearing in the pump. I already tried replacing the oring and flushing the system I even bought Honda fluid. Luckily I am going to take parts of a 99 today will pull pump and pray its good. I should know lazy leads to more problems. I have been fixing cars for 11 years now. Thanks to everyone for your input. Your knowledge on the tl makes diag easier.

3.2TLc

Good news !!! With our cars getting older....this is something often neglected and overlooked.
Sorry ya ended up with a new problem, but you'll get it worked out.

01tl4tl

very important to adjust the ps belt to correct spec- which is much looser than a normal belt from your past
too tight will burn out the pump bearing...FAST
prying may have knocked pulley/tensioner off alignment?

let us know for future users to avoid same situation

Trader122312

Im sure its posted somewere among this sea of information. But how much play am I looking for in the belt.

01tl4tl

did you look in the DIY list, on main page of gen2 its 3rd or 4th item down the thread list- in light grey type = NEW Official 2nd Gen DIY

If I could state for certain the spec PS belt, I would have
Sometimes you have to do a little leg, or finger work to get information~

Trader122312

ok I was hoping I could save a couple clicks lol

01tl4tl

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...thread-706083/ the diy list link

ok I just skimmed the section and didn't see PS replacement by itself- Doh!
SO the easy way to get info is an outside search for Power Steering Belt tension spec +99 acura TL

Trader122312

I replaced this one first...

Because the first dealership had no idea the lower one existed. Well I call another yesterday picked it up 96 cents later shes as quiet as can be

That's what I was prying against that's actually the problem o-ring. However im kicking myself in the but I checked all but right rear pads well it failed for right rear pad. Da**it. The true laughable part is the $269 price they told me to replace them. 30 bucks for oem pads and 10 min of my time. She will be all good Tuesday. Runnin so good I may pass on the extra $$$ and keep it.

3.2TLc

Thanks for following up with your results and the above pics which will serve to assist others who encounter a similar problem with their power steering pump.

01tl4tl

If you had more wear on one side of the cars brake pads = the opposite side brake is not working correctly
That happens when caliper fails!

Was one pad worn more than the other- of same wheel?
how did the brake fluid look on flush?
you didn't flush it? everyone needs to do this at least once every 3 years and some go with full flush 1x year,, racers even sooner~

Trader122312

No Ihave not flushed the brakes. Safe bet that it needs it though. The problem was the pad was really tight almost siezed in the slides.

musiclevelz5

Did you have brake grease to put on the slider pins? If you didnt fix the stuck pins you will get a worn pad very fast again. Also if the pins are rusted which happens from a broken boot, you should get new pins and boots. Also it helps to take a dremel tool and clean the crud off the areas where the brake hardware goes to facilitate a smooth moving pad. If its difficult to put a new pad in its place then you must clean out the area or new pad will have premature wear! Hope this helps