marcov

The ABS light comes and stays on after I start and drive my car. There is also a click under the glove compartment when the light comes on. I did not drive the car for six weeks, the light came on after I started driving it again. The car brakes fine, the pads look ok.

I read the other threads on the subject. I don't know how to check the brake fluid, it has not been replaced or filled in three years or so.

Any suggestions what might be the problem?

marcov

PS. Still trying to get the ABS codes.

marcov

PS. I tried to get the ABS diagnostic codes by sticking a paper clip in the orange thing under the glove compartment (as per the other posts) but the ABS light is not giving any codes. The light comes on as I turn the key to the ON position, then goes off as I start to roll (as always, then after 2-3 minutes of driving slowly out of my garage I hear the click under the glove compartment then the ABS light comes on and stays on.

71duster

I just had the same kinda problem you described with my '97 2.2 CL. I was also intermittently getting a buzzing sound on the first start of the day, with the ABS accumulator trying to build up pressure.

At first, my mechanic thought all 3 parts of my ABS system (accumulator, pump motor, and hydraulic control assembly) needed to be replaced. Parts for this is about $1500. He recommended not performing this fix because it was a waste of money. My master cylinder also needed to be replaced due to a leak. I decided to go with just the master cylinder since that was the higher priority ($160 for parts). When he was doing a system flush, nothing was coming thru and he realized the ABS fluid reservoir was completely empty (inner stains obscured the perceived level). After filling up the reservoir, he was able to get my ABS system working with no problems.

I'd recommend first checking your ABS fluid reservoir, the circular tank about 5" tall with a red 1" circular top, on the driver side just behind the headlight. Add Dot 4 brake fluid if needed. You may need a flush too if it has slime like mine did.

By the way, my error code was ABS pump code #1=ABS pump motor not responding to relay command.

Good luck.

marcov

@71duster, thank you for the tip. Indeed the ABS fluid seems to be low. The reservoir is only about 50-60% full, about 1in below the ridge on the front of the reservoir.

Should I completely fill the reservoir, or only up to the thick line (seems to be some sort of mark) which is at about 3/4 of the reservoir?

How do I flush the fluid it I have to? It looks dark and oily and I am not sure if this is OK or not.

TexasHonda

The key to understanding ABS fault is to obtain the ABS code. I think you shorted the wrong connector to obtain the code. The service check connector is a blue 2-wire connector, usually plugged into a dummy storage block that is connected to underside of dash behind the glove box. You pinch the blue connector to release. Go to autozone.com link that follows for help.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...00c1528008bd34

I've repaired the ABS modulator on this vehicle. It is prone to leaks and internal failures. Some can be repaired and some can't. You can buy a good used unit for <$100 every day at car-part.com. From your description, I would suspect a failed pump or internal leak. Modulator tries to build pressure and can't. After several tries it sets the ABS light (click and light comes on). I have same modulator on my 94 Accord and it's original and never been touched, so some of them perform well.

Get code and I'll try to help.

good luck

notis

Anybody have any other solution for the abs light. I have tried putting a wire and a paper clip to short the abs (blue plug under passenger dash) and my abs light on the instrument cluster does not blink, not once(I waited for about 3-4 minutes to see if it would flash). As soon as car starts the lights stays on. I recently got the car and the light was not on. It came on one day, because the fluid was low, i added fluid and it never went away. Any ideas? I have a 97 cl 2.2

OttaWacK

^^ you say it comes on after a couple mins. Does it come on after a very particular speed?

My ABS light only comes on around 10km/h, it never stores any codes. I know immediately it is my WSS because the computer is trying to determine if the wheels are spinning the same speed, but are not matching. It is not a WSS fault, rather something on my tone ring. Too damn cold in Canada to check or climb under my car .

notis

^^ I dont think our issues are related. I doubt it would be a WSS. Reason I say that is because my fluid was low and the abs light had came on. I do not know if the light came on because of the fluid being low or not but i thought that would be the reason.



As soon as I start the car the abs light is already on. It doesnt turn off at all. It does not come on while i am rolling. Its on from the turn of the key in the ignition.

I tried reading the codes through the blue plug under the pass side dash, and it would stay on. It did not flash once, and i had left it for a good 4 minutes or so. And that is, putting the paper clip in the plug, turning the key to on, and waiting to read the codes. And trust me I am not doing the process of reading the codes wrong.

OttaWacK

hmmm, weird. Take it to a shop to read it for free for you.

Try unplugging the battery for 30 mins to reset the computer. Then try to read the codes after the light comes on. Just an idea...

notis

Appreciate your help. And just disconnected the battery right now to give that a shot.

notis

Just reconnected battery and as soon as I started the car the abs light was on. Like if it was never reset. I know the CEL resets but didnt think the abs light resetted when disconnecting the battery.

Anybody have any ideas?

OttaWacK

Now the computer is reset, try re-reading the codes.

notis

I tried reading the codes again but the same thing happened on trying to read the codes. I short the blue plug and turn the switch to ON and the abs light stays solid. Does not flash once. I left it for a couple of minutes to see but nothing. I even read something about pressing the brake prior to turning the ignition to delete the codes and that didnt even work. Like if somethings shorting out or not connected.

TexasHonda

If the ABS control unit is working, it resets itself everytime keyswitch is turned off. If defect is detected when ignition is turned on again, the code is reset. Some codes are reset quickly, and some take some time (pump attempting to pressurize).

From your description, I would suspect a defective ABS controller is at least part of the problem. You should be able to extract codes by shorting the blue, 2-wire connector under the glove box. If not, try a used ABS controller. The same controller is used by 94-97 Accord ABS so there are plenty of used units available. Most places will garuntee a working unit. I checked and they are readily available for $15-$25. You can search for a unit near your zip code or have it mailed. I recently purchased an ECU for my Acura 2.5TL by mail from a salvage yard w/ good results.

PS. Make sure your service check connector is functional (wires not damaged). An open in that wiring would cause the problem (no code) you're having. I would deliberately set a code by removing the plug from the Idle Air Control Valve and checking to see if you can cause the ECU to go into diagnostic mode and read the "IACV open" code.

good luck

notis

Thanks for the reply. I gave the car a CEL and the service connector does function. I will have to check out the ABS Controller. The controller looks (or probably is) like an ecu?
Also, do you think the ABS Motor Relay could be bad as well? What would be the results of a bad relay?

TexasHonda

Yes, the ABS controller is like a ECU. Should be behind kick panel or glove box. I don't have manual at office.

ABS relay could be faulty, but should set a code. It could equally be a bad pump motor, faulty pump, leaking internal valves, etc.

good luck

billyhibbitts

i've got the same thing happening w/ my '97 2.2 cl. there's an electrical buzzing for about 30 seconds (+/-) then a click through the glove compartment and the ABS light comes on w/ that click and remains on while driving. like the others above, the brakes work fine, though they don't seem to have ABS.

i've had this problem for many months, now, but never knew to check the ABS fluid reservoir until i read about it here. thanks!

there's no fluid in the ABS reservoir at all, so i'm hoping that a quick refill w/ some brake fluid will stop the buzzing and keep that light off.

we're working on mine today, changing the fuel filter, plug wires and the distributor cap.

i'll try to post an update later and let you know if refilling that fluid helps the ABS light problem.

--
3rd owner
97 Acura 2.2CL
~215,000miles
love my black ac!

notis

Yea I figure my issue is the abs pump went bad considering I read everybody hears a buzzing for a couple of seconds when they turn the swtich, and mines doesnt do that.

P0401

iTrader: (1)

mine doesn't give any codes either. mine is a 97 3.0 CL but have tried everything mentioned on these boards to no avail. I did check the fluid in the ABS tank (which I didn't know was there until I read this post) but it was full. I noticed it has a bleeder valve on the unit, do you bleed it just like you bleed your brakes? By pressing and holding the pedal then loosening the bleeder and then hold it to the floor until you tighten the bleeder back up or is there some other way to bleed this unit?

dunndada27

[quote=71duster

I'd recommend first checking your[U] ABS fluid reservoir, the circular tank about 5" tall with a red 1" circular top, on the driver side just behind the headlight.[/u] Add Dot 4 brake fluid if needed. You may need a flush too if it has slime like mine did.

is this dude for real thats your power steering fluid

redcl62188

Check ur ABS relay. That's what I did and I change it and my light came off.

phils97cl

My light would come on after I moved the car a few feet. It turned out to be the right rear ABS wheel sensor/pulser. I found out it was the problem by unpluging the sensors and testing the resistance in each one. Front should be between 700 - 1,100 ohms and the rear sensors are 600 - 900 ohms.

The bad part is I had to pay $127 for a new one...

jlt37869

On my 97 3.0CL, my ABS light came on last week, so I went to the dealership (and paid $67.13 for a diagnostics test) and was told that one of my sensors needed to be replaced (est cost = $382.16) and they also recommended the brake fluid be flushed (est cost = well over $100, I don't recall exactly because I had mentally checked out by this point).

Those quotes seemed really high to me. Any suggestions for getting my car fixed in the Atlanta area?

Thanks.

Jennifer

jlt37869

Just hung up with the other dealership in the area and they quoted $290.00 (right rear censor = $175 + 1 hr labor = $115). Better than the first dealership.

Is this a known problem? This thread has a lot of views!!!

Jennifer

u204995

My car is having the same problem but I can't figure out how to get the brake fluid into the abs reservoir. Any help on an easy way to do that?

65 Fury Convert

There is no abs reservoir - the reservoir that is mentioned in previous posts is actually your power steering reservoir. I don't know if the guy was joking or not but hopefully you didn't already put brake fluid in your power steering pump.

Kal99

I have teh same problem mentioned here but I dont really care about having ABS working.

So my idea was to take down the dash and remove the abs light so that it doesnt bother me by coming on.

Will I mess up other things if I do that???

P0401

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if it will mess up anything else or not but I wouldn't like driving around knowing something was not working correctly in my braking system

P0401

iTrader: (1)

There is a ABS reservoir it just doesn't have a red lid on it, it has a black lid and you pull that black rubber lid off and then there is a plast6iuc round cap inside there and you can take that out and fill with brake fluid

P0401

iTrader: (1)

Here are some pictures of the reservoir so you will know what it looks like

With Black cap on



With Black cap removed



With Plug removed

antonio3rd

my 3.0 has the abs light on never tried a code yet. it comes on about 30 secs after startup. before it comes on there is a buzzing sound under the hood. could this reserve try to be sucking fluid and have none to cause it?

gearhead917

my resivoir cover is oxidized and cracked like from sitting in the sun or something like that. its full of fluid but right now i have the fuse pulled otherwise the pump just runs . my manual doesnt mention much about it and i am hesitant to get bent over by the dealer. What can i check.

saiko_cl_duck

what year do you have? It matters for troubleshooting.

MikeSwing

I'm having this issue with my 97 3.0. Does adding brake fluid fix it?

MistyMetallic97

Where did you get the replacement ABS Relay? I think mine is bad too. I get ABS Code #1 3 times when shorting the SCS connector.

f0rtuitously

I check my ABS relay, it's getting 12v, and it's working fine.

I haven't checked the sensors because it didn't show up in the codes.


The ABS motor is getting 12v but it's not building pressure?
Will I have to replace the whole ABS motor?

chriscreasy

Did you ever find out what was causing this ? I have the exact same issue with the exact same car. Light doesnt come on until I hit 5mph and then I hear a click coming from the ABS control module located underneath the glovebox on the right