"Best of the Best" Mods for 2003 CL Type-S
#1
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"Best of the Best" Mods for 2003 CL Type-S
Hey everybody, I'm kinda new to this site so I'm not sure if this is the right area to post this thread. I bought an '03 CL-S (6-Speed Manual) back in early May and I'm finally starting to become interested in adding mods to it. I'm just curious as to what everyone prefers for the various bolt-on parts.
I currently have an AEM CAI w/ the Dry Flow filter. I have also removed the plastic engine cover on/around my intake plenum in order to help reduce dreaded "heat soak" during the warm months of the year. I also have a ScanGaugeII equipped to my OBD-II outlet, which allows me to read real-time information that is being sent to my ECU (Currently I'm reading intake temp, water temp, throttle position, and RPM). My intake temp stays are 103-115 F while I'm moving over 25mph and raises to 130-140 F when I'm sitting. Any body have any tips to help me achieve ambient air temperature?
I've also been looking into headers and a throttle body spacer. I'm interested in DC Sport headers, due to the fact they are ceramic coated and resist discoloration better than SS. But, DC only lists headers for what appears to be an automatic CL-S. Would the headers for the auto also fit the 6-speed or what type of modification would need to be done to get them to fit? Plus, I would like to know a variety of headers that perform well for the CL-S 6-speed.
Any bolt-ons will help. I'm not sure what the gains are from a throttle body spacer, but I'm sure it is slight (1-3whp). If someone would explain the use of a TBS, I would greatly appreciate it.
I'm open minded to other mods that are not bolt on. I run my own auto shop in KY so I have the ability to do almost anything to the car. Anyone's opinion and help is greatly appreciated
I currently have an AEM CAI w/ the Dry Flow filter. I have also removed the plastic engine cover on/around my intake plenum in order to help reduce dreaded "heat soak" during the warm months of the year. I also have a ScanGaugeII equipped to my OBD-II outlet, which allows me to read real-time information that is being sent to my ECU (Currently I'm reading intake temp, water temp, throttle position, and RPM). My intake temp stays are 103-115 F while I'm moving over 25mph and raises to 130-140 F when I'm sitting. Any body have any tips to help me achieve ambient air temperature?
I've also been looking into headers and a throttle body spacer. I'm interested in DC Sport headers, due to the fact they are ceramic coated and resist discoloration better than SS. But, DC only lists headers for what appears to be an automatic CL-S. Would the headers for the auto also fit the 6-speed or what type of modification would need to be done to get them to fit? Plus, I would like to know a variety of headers that perform well for the CL-S 6-speed.
Any bolt-ons will help. I'm not sure what the gains are from a throttle body spacer, but I'm sure it is slight (1-3whp). If someone would explain the use of a TBS, I would greatly appreciate it.
I'm open minded to other mods that are not bolt on. I run my own auto shop in KY so I have the ability to do almost anything to the car. Anyone's opinion and help is greatly appreciated
#2
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
Outlaw Engineering has a thermo spacer kit. Comes with throttle body and intake manifold. They have charts there to show temp. differences.
Headers for a 6speeed: only comptech makes them now. XS headers were knockoff comptechs but aren't sold anymore...plus they were cheaper quality. They need to have a bend in the rear header to clear the 6speed rear engine mount.
Look into an underdrive lightweight crank pulley. It "frees" power and is a good bang for buck mod. Lighter wheels will help. Exhaust can be pricey for the hp you get from it.
If you own your own shop read the 3.5L swap thread in the frequently asked questions section. It involves a odyssey/mdx crankshaft, rods and RL pistons. That will get you the most hp/tq.
Headers for a 6speeed: only comptech makes them now. XS headers were knockoff comptechs but aren't sold anymore...plus they were cheaper quality. They need to have a bend in the rear header to clear the 6speed rear engine mount.
Look into an underdrive lightweight crank pulley. It "frees" power and is a good bang for buck mod. Lighter wheels will help. Exhaust can be pricey for the hp you get from it.
If you own your own shop read the 3.5L swap thread in the frequently asked questions section. It involves a odyssey/mdx crankshaft, rods and RL pistons. That will get you the most hp/tq.
Last edited by gnuts; 08-05-2011 at 02:30 PM. Reason: adding
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withinthemind90 (06-20-2014)
#3
Outlaw Engineering has a thermo spacer kit. Comes with throttle body and intake manifold. They have charts there to show temp. differences.
Headers for a 6speeed: only comptech makes them now. XS headers were knockoff comptechs but aren't sold anymore...plus they were cheaper quality. They need to have a bend in the rear header to clear the 6speed rear engine mount.
Look into an underdrive lightweight crank pulley. It "frees" power and is a good bang for buck mod. Lighter wheels will help. Exhaust can be pricey for the hp you get from it.
If you own your own shop read the 3.5L swap thread in the frequently asked questions section. It involves a odyssey/mdx crankshaft, rods and RL pistons. That will get you the most hp/tq.
Headers for a 6speeed: only comptech makes them now. XS headers were knockoff comptechs but aren't sold anymore...plus they were cheaper quality. They need to have a bend in the rear header to clear the 6speed rear engine mount.
Look into an underdrive lightweight crank pulley. It "frees" power and is a good bang for buck mod. Lighter wheels will help. Exhaust can be pricey for the hp you get from it.
If you own your own shop read the 3.5L swap thread in the frequently asked questions section. It involves a odyssey/mdx crankshaft, rods and RL pistons. That will get you the most hp/tq.
#4
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (7)
If you own your own shop read the 3.5L swap thread in the frequently asked questions section. It involves a odyssey/mdx crankshaft, rods and RL pistons. That will get you the most hp/tq.
Would the headers for the auto also fit the 6-speed or what type of modification would need to be done to get them to fit? Plus, I would like to know a variety of headers that perform well for the CL-S 6-speed.
and i have UR underdrive pulley. only used 2 month. LMK if you are interested.
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withinthemind90 (06-20-2014)
#7
Intermediate
i know this is a little older of a thread but street and anth do either of you still have your pulleys for sale?
if not do you recommend getting one and if yes what brand?
if not do you recommend getting one and if yes what brand?
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#8
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Join Date: Jun 2004
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What kind of option do I have for cams & cam pulleys. I have the 03 Cl-s engine, CT sc w/ the 8-9lb pulley set up. Sorry to Hi jack thread, but didnt want to start new one.
#10
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AEM FIC for the tune. Gude has a listing for them for the 01 03 cl-s. Intake lift 0.400 duration 228. Exhaust 0.400 duration 228. Not sure what the stock specs are. Does anyone know? Looking for a little more power thru the entire rpms. Want to get in the 320-330 range for whp & wtq. sitting at 310 whp & 313 wtq now.
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My cooling is a Fluidyne radiator. I had Fluidyne make one for me by sending them my stock radiator specs. Along w/ that I have the cooling fans. Also running the outlaw engineering thermal block gaskets for TB & intake to runners.The AEM FIC took care of the rest of the Idle & warm/ hot start issues by changing my afr from 14.7 to a 13.5ish afr. I thought the cams would be a nice little increase. I will probably have to change my injectors. I'm using rc310 now, thinking of going to the 370-410 range if I do change my cams. Will have to retune on the dyno again also.
#14
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
I'm sure those cooling mods help a bit, but adding a meth kit or nitrous would send your numbers way up while decreasing intake temps which will save your engine. Plus they're a lot cheaper.
#15
All motor
But, Bisimoto has cams for the J.
#17
I kno this is an old thread but i bought the dc headers from excelerate and hate them it sounds like i drive a civic now and i had to cut a piece off my rearmount just to get them to fit and the exhaust hangers on the down pipe dont match stock..waste of 400
#22
I know Manzo makes a header, pretty sure its a knock off of a knock off (XS headers), they're cheap as hell but they look good, except when I got mine I needed to dremel out where the flange was welded to the tubes. Not sure of longevity as of yet though..
#23
Will a 4 inch intake make any power over a 3 inch without changing anything else? In terms of throttle body, for example? I'm running a 3-inch CAI, and so far I don't see the point of going to 4 inch. Right now I've got a 70 mm TB, will I see any more power with a 4 inch intake?
#24
I know this is an old thread but perhaps someone can give me some insite on helping my 2000 TL's J32A1 breathe better and I found P2R's site listing that they have Ported Lower Intake Runners for these engines.
You think these will help or is there any advice you can give for modding the intake manifold system for the J32A1 engines? I'm currently running an AEM V2 Intake and a header back exhaust.
https://www.powerrevracing.com/P2R-J...ers-p/p321.htm
You think these will help or is there any advice you can give for modding the intake manifold system for the J32A1 engines? I'm currently running an AEM V2 Intake and a header back exhaust.
https://www.powerrevracing.com/P2R-J...ers-p/p321.htm
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