Oil filters - "Honda" vs Mobil 1
08-06-2007, 01:03 AM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Oil filters - "Honda" vs Mobil 1
Just cut open the oil filters from my first two services, each one has about 5400 miles on it.
The first is the OEM Honda, which is made by Fram. It has a floppy paper element which deteriorated and some fins folded over on themselves. More importantly, some small pieces were missing. The end caps are made of glued felt and retained by a narrow metal flange which only covers the inner edge of the felt.
On a positive note; the center core is metal, and the bypass valve is well constructed with a metal coil spring. The anti-drainback valve is good quality silicon rubber (although that doesn't matter with the filter facing up on the engine bottom).
New Honda filters use a modified nitrile rubber gasket that is fitted under a flange to prevent idiots from leaving the gasket on the filter housing and setting fire to their products. This occured with older filters:
The Mobil 1 has a rigid fiber-matrix element with full coverage metal end caps welded to a metal center core as a single unit. It looked as good as new. The metal coil spring bypass valve is slightly larger and well made. (Spring pressures are about the same.) The anti-drainback valve is also silicon rubber.
Mobil 1 uses a nitrile rubber gasket crimped into the base.
Both filter cannisters are heavy steel about the same gauge and roll pressed into the base.
The bottom line comes down to the element. I would never consider going two oil changes on the Honda filter as the manual states. It is just adequate for one.
The Mobil 1 filter element is clearly superior, and the M1-110 is about $11 at AutoZone, about $2 more than a dealership filter.
(I have pics, but the camera and computer aren't speaking
)
The first is the OEM Honda, which is made by Fram. It has a floppy paper element which deteriorated and some fins folded over on themselves. More importantly, some small pieces were missing. The end caps are made of glued felt and retained by a narrow metal flange which only covers the inner edge of the felt.
On a positive note; the center core is metal, and the bypass valve is well constructed with a metal coil spring. The anti-drainback valve is good quality silicon rubber (although that doesn't matter with the filter facing up on the engine bottom).
New Honda filters use a modified nitrile rubber gasket that is fitted under a flange to prevent idiots from leaving the gasket on the filter housing and setting fire to their products. This occured with older filters:
ConsumerAffairs.com, December 10, 2004
The problem occurs when mechanics remove the original oil filter at the first oil change. The filter's rubber gasket tends to remain stuck in the engine block, which prevents the new filter from sealing properly. Oil then leaks out onto a hot manifold, potentially starting a fire. Honda still insists the problem lies mostly with the dealers and says it would not be liable for any damages resulting from the oil filter problem. "The liability remains with the dealer," a spokesman said.
Will of Mission Viejo, CA (12/26/04)
I bought a new Honda cr v, after the first oil change there was a engine fire. It was caused by a double gasket on the filter. The oil came out and went on the catolytic converter. A fireball under the car went into the engine compartment and caused damage. My wife is very scared to drive her car now. It could happen again. Next time it could be fatal.
The problem occurs when mechanics remove the original oil filter at the first oil change. The filter's rubber gasket tends to remain stuck in the engine block, which prevents the new filter from sealing properly. Oil then leaks out onto a hot manifold, potentially starting a fire. Honda still insists the problem lies mostly with the dealers and says it would not be liable for any damages resulting from the oil filter problem. "The liability remains with the dealer," a spokesman said.
Will of Mission Viejo, CA (12/26/04)
I bought a new Honda cr v, after the first oil change there was a engine fire. It was caused by a double gasket on the filter. The oil came out and went on the catolytic converter. A fireball under the car went into the engine compartment and caused damage. My wife is very scared to drive her car now. It could happen again. Next time it could be fatal.
Mobil 1 uses a nitrile rubber gasket crimped into the base.
Both filter cannisters are heavy steel about the same gauge and roll pressed into the base.
The bottom line comes down to the element. I would never consider going two oil changes on the Honda filter as the manual states. It is just adequate for one.
The Mobil 1 filter element is clearly superior, and the M1-110 is about $11 at AutoZone, about $2 more than a dealership filter.
(I have pics, but the camera and computer aren't speaking
)
08-06-2007, 01:27 AM
#2
Safety Car
Thread Starter
If you happen to be of the "oil filters are all the same, just get a cheap one" mindset.....
Consider that the engine oil pump unrestricted output is about 10+ gallons/minute. The oil filter slows this down some, but at 3000 RPM the pump cycles all the oil in the engine every 25 seconds.
If a cheap filter leaks the RDX is not likely to catch fire (filter location), but the pump will discharge oil overboard possibly faster than you will recognize the problem.
Stick with Honda (changed every time), Mobil 1, Purolater Pure One, etc. A cheap filter is not worth the $4 or $5 saved.
Consider that the engine oil pump unrestricted output is about 10+ gallons/minute. The oil filter slows this down some, but at 3000 RPM the pump cycles all the oil in the engine every 25 seconds.
If a cheap filter leaks the RDX is not likely to catch fire (filter location), but the pump will discharge oil overboard possibly faster than you will recognize the problem.
Stick with Honda (changed every time), Mobil 1, Purolater Pure One, etc. A cheap filter is not worth the $4 or $5 saved.
08-07-2007, 12:36 PM
#4
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Oil Filters
I've read now on this forum that many of you seem to object to using Fram/Honda OEM oil filters in the RDX if you follow the "every other interval" oil filter change method. If that's the case, can someone fill me in on the difference between the quality differences between the mobil 1l filters or Pennzoil oil filters?
08-07-2007, 01:57 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by AcuraDriver89
I've read now on this forum that many of you seem to object to using Fram/Honda OEM oil filters in the RDX if you follow the "every other interval" oil filter change method. If that's the case, can someone fill me in on the difference between the quality differences between the mobil 1l filters or Pennzoil oil filters?
But I think for $8 every 3 months, or $32 a year, changing the oilfilter at every oil change is worth the cost, given it's job to continually remove particulate pollutants.
In such a case, it really does not matter if you use the Honda or FRAM OEM oilfilter or use the more expensive Mobil 1 oilfilter. Also, especially when the oil filter is so easily accessed in the RDX, when you are doing the oil change, why not simply change out the filter as well?
Also the Honda filter can't be that bad if it has been approved by Honda itself.
Stick with the Honda OEM part, can't go wrong there.
JHMO
08-15-2007, 05:56 PM
#7
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This has been discussed on many forums before with detailed comparisons and pictures. I can vouch for the fram filters being total crap. I myself will only use Amsoil Nano oil filters or mobile1 oil filters since I know for sure these 2 are great products.
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