honda_nut

I'm trying to find a quick and easy way to make my paint look "darker" again. My 10 year old nighthawk black tl is up for sale but the roof and trunk lid look grayish white. I know my clear coat is done for but i need a temporary fix so people will look at the car. The clear is not completely gone but the edges show wear. I'll try to post pictures tomorrow.

TOGWT

Oxidation

Chalk like appearance on the paint surface - it starts as a chemical reaction that causes the resin binder system to overheat and dry out or it can also be caused by excessive (friction) heat generated during the machine polishing process (See also Compound Polishing Surface Temperature) leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro fissures in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration. Once the air borne contaminates and pollution compromises the paint surface they accelerate the oxidation (reduction) or paint failure process.

a) Two stage paint system- (base, colour and isocyanate clear coat) - a clear-coat finish does not oxidize in the true sense of the word (meaning that the pigments and resins mix together and the pigments are exposed to the sun's ultra-violet rays, which causes them to dry out, this is not oxidation, it’s clear coat failure.. The clear coat is applied to protect against this but the finish will become ‘dull’ by using harsh (abrasive) or if acidic car washing solutions as used in ‘touch less’ car washing systems, or from industrial airborne pollutants compromising the clear coat allowing the suns heat to dry out (oxidize) the paint, causing it to fail.

Correction- Two stage paint system- usually a repaint is required to replace the clear coat

For oxidized paint try the following (this is a temporary fix only);
• Wash the paint surface and dry thoroughly
• Clean the paint with chemical paint cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) using an orange foam pad at speed #4, this may take 2-3 applications
• If a chemical paint cleaner doesn’t remove the oxidation use a Lake County (LC) purple foamed wool (PFW) pad and Menzerna’s Power Gloss (POS 34A) clean or replace with a clean pad as the oxidized paint will load the pad
• A foam pad will transfer kinetic (friction) heat to the paint and may exasperate the problem
• Wet-sanding will remove oxidation but may remove too much clear coat
• Once the oxidation has been removed use a decontamination system (Aquartz Iron Cut)
• Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.
• Using Gloss It EVP Pad Prime will help maintain sufficient oil lubrication for the polish
• Remove residue and apply a Carnauba wax (Zymol Concourse)
• Try to keep vehicle paint surface away from UV heat radiation
• Keep paint surface waxed on a regular basis.

honda_nut

Thanks for your advice, but I have a couple problems. 1) I have no garage since I'm in college. The car sits in the sun unless I get lucky and find a shady spot. 2) I don't have a porter cable and do not have the funds to buy one at the moment. I'm just trying to sell the car and possibly get a 3rd gen TL, not in black this time.

Can you suggest something that I can do by hand, preferably with over the counter products? Again, I don't want to waste too much money since I need it to buy the new car. I really appreciate your help. Thanks

PortlandRL

Unfortunately with your limited budget your options are also going to be limited. I take it you've tried selling the car with the paint damage visible with no luck?

honda_nut

Well, it's only been up for sale for a couple weeks and I haven't really tried too hard to sell it yet. No one has complained about the paint, but I just feel bad looking at it like that. It hasn't started to peel but the very edges are have no clear. What product would you recommend to add some gloss to the damaged areas?

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

Maybe a turtle wax rubbing compound then go back over with a wax to finish it off?