Bluish

I need to change my rear brake pads on my '96 3.2 TL for the 3rd time in 240,000 miles.

The first time I completely removed the calipers from the vehicle and then forced the caliper piston back in using a hammer. I did this because I didn't know what I was doing and because the odd shape of the caliper made using a C-Clamp impossible.

The 2nd time I just replaced the calipers with rebuilt parts - so I did not need to reset the brake piston.

Now I want to do it right, but I need help from someone with experience on a 1st gen 3.2 TL. Once I have the rear caliper removed from the mount bracket and the pad shims and brake pads have been removed, how do I reset the brake piston?

NOTE: I have the full service manuals, but could not find instructions in section 19-17 Rear Brake Pads Inspection and Replacement.

undyroos

the rear piston needs to be screwed in, not clamped in like the front. the face of the piston looks like a + sign slotted into it, get whatever you can slot into the grooves and turn it in. i used a handle from a pair of pliers to give me more leverage/torque, a screwdriver may work as well. good luck.

myisanog

they have a certain tool u can use to screw in the rear piston

myisanog

i have no idea what its called but it is shaped as a cube with different shapes on each side . u attach it to a ratchet and crank the piston in . u can purchase at any oreillys store

myisanog

heres a pic of it . for our rear brake pistons u use the side with 4 bumps, one on each corner. attach it to a ratchet and line it up with the piston and it will grip the piston so u can crank it in .. and make sure when u screw the piston in to make the piston a t and not an x because it will eat the pads faster

myisanog

i found the link for ya ..
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0675&ppt=C0067

tuanrich

AutoZone let you borrow the tools for free!!!

Bluish

I changed the rear pads last night. The job took 60 minutes. It took me a while to reset one of the caliper pistions, but I got it done.

The passenger side pads had more than 50% of their life remaining. The drivers side inside pad was OK, but the outside pad was almost 100% gone, particularly along the outside of the rotor. The wheel rotates freely, but perhaps the caliper is seizing intermittently. I'll monitor the new pads for excessive heat and wear.

myisanog

what tool did u use

Bluish

The tool shown in the picture you posted above.

myisanog

glad to know i was of help . i was going to change a friends brakes today but the screw was on so tight that it broke 2 of my 12mm sokcets and then i told him i could no longer do it