Wagon Brake Recommendation
03-08-2017, 11:22 AM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Wagon Brake Recommendation
2012 TSX Wagon
85,000 miles
1st brake job
Getting lots of squeal from the car. Time for new pads. No vibration on steering wheel. Rotors were machined ONE time under warranty at 37K miles.
QUESTIONS:
1) Do you guys recommend sticking with OEM pads or going aftermarket? IF aftermarket, what are your recommendation and where do you buy from?
2) I will measure the rotor, but should I expect rotor to have enough meat, or would likely need replacement? If so, what rotor would you recommend?
Given that the first brake job is almost at 85K miles, car is mostly seeing highway miles.
Thank you
85,000 miles
1st brake job
Getting lots of squeal from the car. Time for new pads. No vibration on steering wheel. Rotors were machined ONE time under warranty at 37K miles.
QUESTIONS:
1) Do you guys recommend sticking with OEM pads or going aftermarket? IF aftermarket, what are your recommendation and where do you buy from?
2) I will measure the rotor, but should I expect rotor to have enough meat, or would likely need replacement? If so, what rotor would you recommend?
Given that the first brake job is almost at 85K miles, car is mostly seeing highway miles.
Thank you
03-08-2017, 12:53 PM
#2
Drifting
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: City of Champs, MA
Age: 32
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AFAIK, nobody has really gone with OEM replacements because they are known to fail prematurely on our cars. (Or at least on the 09-10, saw a lot of threads about it)
My first brake setup was a stoptech package from XLR8. Slotted rotors and I forget which pads, but they've been great so far, no complaints.
My first brake setup was a stoptech package from XLR8. Slotted rotors and I forget which pads, but they've been great so far, no complaints.
03-08-2017, 01:30 PM
#3
I usually shop rockauto for brakes.
Looks like AZ vendors carry brake packages too.
I always buy new rotors. They're cheap...and a new rotor gives the pad a clean bedding surface. I also paint the hats or buy coated rotors.
I prefer blank rotors. I usually end up with Centrics because...idk. whatever. Centric is a known brand, and as far as I can tell...they're reputable. And they're inexpensive. They're just rotors. Buy whichever brand is cheapest and most advantageous for shipping location (if you know how to play the rockauto game...make sure as much stuff ships from the same place as possible to get advantages on shipping).
On rockauto, for the 2nd gen...at a quick glance, the pads I'd go with are either the Akebono ACT Ceramics or the Raybestos Hybrids.
Bed them in properly.
Looks like AZ vendors carry brake packages too.
I always buy new rotors. They're cheap...and a new rotor gives the pad a clean bedding surface. I also paint the hats or buy coated rotors.
I prefer blank rotors. I usually end up with Centrics because...idk. whatever. Centric is a known brand, and as far as I can tell...they're reputable. And they're inexpensive. They're just rotors. Buy whichever brand is cheapest and most advantageous for shipping location (if you know how to play the rockauto game...make sure as much stuff ships from the same place as possible to get advantages on shipping).
On rockauto, for the 2nd gen...at a quick glance, the pads I'd go with are either the Akebono ACT Ceramics or the Raybestos Hybrids.
Bed them in properly.
03-08-2017, 02:41 PM
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
AFAIK, nobody has really gone with OEM replacements because they are known to fail prematurely on our cars. (Or at least on the 09-10, saw a lot of threads about it)
My first brake setup was a stoptech package from XLR8. Slotted rotors and I forget which pads, but they've been great so far, no complaints.
My first brake setup was a stoptech package from XLR8. Slotted rotors and I forget which pads, but they've been great so far, no complaints.
oem replacements fail ? What does that mean ?
03-08-2017, 02:42 PM
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I usually shop rockauto for brakes.
Looks like AZ vendors carry brake packages too.
I always buy new rotors. They're cheap...and a new rotor gives the pad a clean bedding surface. I also paint the hats or buy coated rotors.
I prefer blank rotors. I usually end up with Centrics because...idk. whatever. Centric is a known brand, and as far as I can tell...they're reputable. And they're inexpensive. They're just rotors. Buy whichever brand is cheapest and most advantageous for shipping location (if you know how to play the rockauto game...make sure as much stuff ships from the same place as possible to get advantages on shipping).
On rockauto, for the 2nd gen...at a quick glance, the pads I'd go with are either the Akebono ACT Ceramics or the Raybestos Hybrids.
Bed them in properly.
Looks like AZ vendors carry brake packages too.
I always buy new rotors. They're cheap...and a new rotor gives the pad a clean bedding surface. I also paint the hats or buy coated rotors.
I prefer blank rotors. I usually end up with Centrics because...idk. whatever. Centric is a known brand, and as far as I can tell...they're reputable. And they're inexpensive. They're just rotors. Buy whichever brand is cheapest and most advantageous for shipping location (if you know how to play the rockauto game...make sure as much stuff ships from the same place as possible to get advantages on shipping).
On rockauto, for the 2nd gen...at a quick glance, the pads I'd go with are either the Akebono ACT Ceramics or the Raybestos Hybrids.
Bed them in properly.
I have to check the rear pads before ordering to see if I need those too
I know I need the fronts
03-08-2017, 04:07 PM
#6
AFAIK, nobody has really gone with OEM replacements because they are known to fail prematurely on our cars. (Or at least on the 09-10, saw a lot of threads about it)
My first brake setup was a stoptech package from XLR8. Slotted rotors and I forget which pads, but they've been great so far, no complaints.
My first brake setup was a stoptech package from XLR8. Slotted rotors and I forget which pads, but they've been great so far, no complaints.
03-08-2017, 06:56 PM
#7
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
If you're referring to the ProACTs, I have those for my RL BBK. Instructions specifically say you don't need to bed them in, but I did the typical procedure anyway just to be sure.
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03-08-2017, 07:07 PM
#8
Safety Car
Thread Starter
the wagon isn't going to race track
i have been pleased with with performance of oem
thus if replacements have at least the same bite as oem I would be happy
03-09-2017, 11:28 AM
#10
Safety Car
Thread Starter
03-09-2017, 12:07 PM
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
03-09-2017, 02:00 PM
#13
Safety Car
Thread Starter
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2012wagon (03-10-2017)
03-10-2017, 09:17 AM
#15
Burning Brakes
I did the Excelerate brake package with blanks. Bernardi as mentioned above is great too for OEM components. My front driver side has developed an occasional low tone howl recently during light braking, but I'm not sure what the cause is yet, need to get under there this weekend. Brake setup was good until this point.
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2012wagon (03-10-2017)
03-10-2017, 10:30 AM
#16
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I did the Excelerate brake package with blanks. Bernardi as mentioned above is great too for OEM components. My front driver side has developed an occasional low tone howl recently during light braking, but I'm not sure what the cause is yet, need to get under there this weekend. Brake setup was good until this point.
but bernardi wanted $19 for shipping
oem was $10 for shipping
thus oem ended up being cheaper
03-10-2017, 01:46 PM
#17
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
I did the Excelerate brake package with blanks. Bernardi as mentioned above is great too for OEM components. My front driver side has developed an occasional low tone howl recently during light braking, but I'm not sure what the cause is yet, need to get under there this weekend. Brake setup was good until this point.
03-10-2017, 02:13 PM
#18
Low tone howl is usually pad deposits on the rotor. Its the same as rotor "warp" conditions....except that the deposits are not yet big enough to make the pedal pulsate substantially.
I'm guessing there is some rhythmic feedback thru the pedal, though. It likely pulses at the same frequency as the noise waves. And it likely started after the brakes were thrashed on...either a heavy stop on the highway or spirited driving with repeated use.
yes?
I'm guessing there is some rhythmic feedback thru the pedal, though. It likely pulses at the same frequency as the noise waves. And it likely started after the brakes were thrashed on...either a heavy stop on the highway or spirited driving with repeated use.
yes?
The following 2 users liked this post by BROlando:
Puppetmaster (03-13-2017),
xtcnrice (03-10-2017)
03-10-2017, 02:43 PM
#19
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
Low tone howl is usually pad deposits on the rotor. Its the same as rotor "warp" conditions....except that the deposits are not yet big enough to make the pedal pulsate substantially.
I'm guessing there is some rhythmic feedback thru the pedal, though. It likely pulses at the same frequency as the noise waves. And it likely started after the brakes were thrashed on...either a heavy stop on the highway or spirited driving with repeated use.
yes?
I'm guessing there is some rhythmic feedback thru the pedal, though. It likely pulses at the same frequency as the noise waves. And it likely started after the brakes were thrashed on...either a heavy stop on the highway or spirited driving with repeated use.
yes?
03-10-2017, 06:09 PM
#20
Thanks for the info! I'll have to check my rotors for pad deposits as well, as I started feeling a slight pulsation on light braking as well. Have you ever encountered this? If so, did you use Hawk Blue pads (found this info on the internet) to scrub the rotors clean before switching back and re-bedding your original ones?
Though...hawk blues will definitely scrape the barnacles off the Titanic. Blues are very VERY abrasive racing pads. They become less abrasive when they ride on a transfer layer from very hard, repeated braking from lapping a circuit. They're pricey...so Idk if I'd use them just as scrapers lol. I certainly wouldn't use them for street pads....so they'll be kind of useless.
I thought you had RL calipers? I don't think Hawk makes an RL pad, do they? Honestly, the pad selection for RL calipers sucks. I am currently using Wagner Ceramics and I'm happy enough. No pulsing or anything...and these calipers pretty much force any pad to bite down. I bedded them in when I bought them. They recently started making a creaking noise, though. So...idk. I'll have to look into that.
You can scrape rotors with any cheapo semi-metallic/metallic pad, if you want to give that a shot. I think Centric semi-metallics are like $8 on rockauto lol.
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xtcnrice (03-10-2017)
03-10-2017, 10:24 PM
#21
VTEC just kicked in, yo!
I have experienced it. I usually just buy new rotors and pads....as that would be cheaper than buying a set of hawk blues to scrape off rotors.
Though...hawk blues will definitely scrape the barnacles off the Titanic. Blues are very VERY abrasive racing pads. They become less abrasive when they ride on a transfer layer from very hard, repeated braking from lapping a circuit. They're pricey...so Idk if I'd use them just as scrapers lol. I certainly wouldn't use them for street pads....so they'll be kind of useless.
I thought you had RL calipers? I don't think Hawk makes an RL pad, do they? Honestly, the pad selection for RL calipers sucks. I am currently using Wagner Ceramics and I'm happy enough. No pulsing or anything...and these calipers pretty much force any pad to bite down. I bedded them in when I bought them. They recently started making a creaking noise, though. So...idk. I'll have to look into that.
You can scrape rotors with any cheapo semi-metallic/metallic pad, if you want to give that a shot. I think Centric semi-metallics are like $8 on rockauto lol.
Though...hawk blues will definitely scrape the barnacles off the Titanic. Blues are very VERY abrasive racing pads. They become less abrasive when they ride on a transfer layer from very hard, repeated braking from lapping a circuit. They're pricey...so Idk if I'd use them just as scrapers lol. I certainly wouldn't use them for street pads....so they'll be kind of useless.
I thought you had RL calipers? I don't think Hawk makes an RL pad, do they? Honestly, the pad selection for RL calipers sucks. I am currently using Wagner Ceramics and I'm happy enough. No pulsing or anything...and these calipers pretty much force any pad to bite down. I bedded them in when I bought them. They recently started making a creaking noise, though. So...idk. I'll have to look into that.
You can scrape rotors with any cheapo semi-metallic/metallic pad, if you want to give that a shot. I think Centric semi-metallics are like $8 on rockauto lol.
03-13-2017, 11:39 AM
#22
Burning Brakes
Low tone howl is usually pad deposits on the rotor. Its the same as rotor "warp" conditions....except that the deposits are not yet big enough to make the pedal pulsate substantially.
I'm guessing there is some rhythmic feedback thru the pedal, though. It likely pulses at the same frequency as the noise waves. And it likely started after the brakes were thrashed on...either a heavy stop on the highway or spirited driving with repeated use.
yes?
I'm guessing there is some rhythmic feedback thru the pedal, though. It likely pulses at the same frequency as the noise waves. And it likely started after the brakes were thrashed on...either a heavy stop on the highway or spirited driving with repeated use.
yes?