boorah623

Hey Guys,

Took the Acura, 135k miles, into the shop for a couple of issues and this is what they came back with:

- Symptom: brakes not grabbing / stopping well -- They said this is due to a faulty check valve on the vacuum hose from the power booster and not an issue with the Master Cylinder or the Booster itself (they tested by hooking up a vacuum). Replace by ordering part from Honda/Acura, $86.
- Symptom: rear brakes thunk when starting the car from park/cold stop, seemingly due to sticking rear caliper -- They recommended replacing the rear caliper, pads and rotors, $755. Followed by brake fluid flush, $124.
- Symptom: car leans to right, likely due to hitting the curb real hard many years ago -- I was hoping to just do an alignment, but they recommended replacing the front struts as one of them is leaking (which I know is true). Replace front struts, $668. Then alignment, $90.

All in, that's around $1,723. This is around what this car is worth it seems from online estimators and CarMax offered me $1,500 last year :/

What do you guys think? It is worth it to do all this and keep it?

I asked them to at least replace the vacuum hose since it's cheap and most important to be able to brake properly. I realize I could do that part pretty easily myself, but I'd probably only save $50 at most.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

even if you put $2k a year into a paid off car to maintain it....WILL be worth it.
Do the math!
if you werent going to put the $2k into the car, what would you buy? a brand new vehicle for $30-50k?
a used vehicle for $5k?
or another $1-2K vehicle???

no matter how you spin it, buying a new/used car will be more $$$$ than just maintaining your vehicle.

Roblee23

Replacing the rear calibers, pads and rotors should be nowhere $755! Replacing the bad strut should also be nowhere near $350, i say keep it, there isnt really much wrong with your car.

Roblee23

This is the truth^^^^^. I hear so many times people looking to get rid of their cars just because a little maintenance is due and they dont wanna get it done. The sad truth is, every car, even 2017s, will need a little bit of tlc every once in a while.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^coming from experience, why did you move away from your Maxima and choose the TL?

Roblee23

well even to this day i miss the Max for a couple of reasons, but i have always thought about getting one of these TLs, i used to see people driving them years ago when i bought my first car and always thought "thats a slick looking lil car". I found my TL for a decent price but it needed LOTS of work! My maxima was running great even with 309k on the original tranny and engine! And not to mention Nissan's VQ uses a mainentance free timing chain! But it was badly rusting away and the lowest i could got it fixed for was around $1000. So i sold it to help pay for the TL. The TL have left me stranded a few times, which anyone of my Nissans never did, but i had it 8 months so far and the project is going good! Im glad i bought it, its more car than the maxima, and the build quality on the TL is very sturdy, when im done completing the project on the TL, im gonna post a than and now thread so everyone can see how the was when i got it, and how it is now.

Roblee23

My last Maxima.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

That was a great response and shows the OP that maybe switching to another car, one would inherit OTHER flaws

SuperGreg

IMO, learning to do the work yourself makes owning these cars very cost effective. My tranny went out and I replaced it DIY for $1K. I know someone with a 3G TL who just paid $4,500 for a new tranny. Are you kidding me??

Calipers are easy to replace. A pair of rear calipers is around $100. Add pads/rotors for another $100.

Skirmich

Learn to DIY and you wouldn´t have this conundrums...
The TL is super easy to work on and brakes are like the easiest stuff you can do on about any car on this planet.

Also FYI: Those quotes are super retarded.. 670 for both front shocks?? LOL what is what? a Dealership?

08KBP_VA

The other responses here are totally on point, this question comes up sooo many times its funny. People want confirmation thats they should get a newer vehicle. I'd say pick the poison you know...you fix this car for ~2000 and its a solid car then youll be set, theoreticaly, for quite a few years. I would guarantee your acqusition cost of another vehicle will be significatly more than $2000 PLUS you have no real history on that and would need to start a new baseline.

Also, keep in mind carmax gives you low auction on their estimates. Plus its over 10years old so it wont be a retail car for them to make additional money so they will always low ball you on older cars.

Roblee - +1 on Maxima...I have 01 Anniv and love that car and same color as yours, but like you said very different car than TL

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

my 06 was the first BIG car purchase greater than $5k...(it was $23k)
I NEVER EVER want to finance a vehicle EVER again.

that leaves me with a few options...
- KEEP the TL until something catastrophic happens while saving for an equivalent
- buy $5k car
- buy $1-2k car.


options 2 and three are feasible, BUTT I understand that a $1-2k car will need work to get it road worthy. which equates to time and money!!!!!
which would put the gentleman back into the same weather conditions but different boat.
Anyway you slice it, you're still spending that same $2k to fix things

Roblee23

yep!!!! And i love the way anniversary edition look with that lip kit, i love the TL, but man do i miss that Max! And it had black leather interior

boorah623

Thanks for the responses guys.

I joined this forum mostly because I was inspired to start learning DIY. Since then I've done the headlight swap, spark plugs, oil change, brake fluid flush and a few odds and ends. Do you guys think I am ready to graduate to brakes and struts?

The brakes and struts stuff just seem more daunting, maybe because they're more significant to the safety of the car. I've watched some videos on caliper replacement and it seems doable. I think there are some strut replacement videos too but I haven't gone there yet--just seems more scary, like I don't know about this having to set the spring and stuff. There appear to be easy-install struts though that are ready to go out of the box... is that a good option? Anybody try that?

As for the future, the main worry is what else will break next. I think I still have the original transmission so there's that. Because of the lean of the car, the tires wear more quickly (replacing the struts may fix this but not sure). I've been told there's a rear main seal leak, so there's that too. Many things are looming it feels, some of which may be solved by DIY, some of which may not...

08KBP_VA

If you have done a brake flush yourself then by all means you ready for caliper replacement, caliper replacement is just a couple bolts and swap lines and bleed brakes which you have already done with your flush.

The quick install struts are out there and an option if you dont have a spring compressor or your local big box does not rent them I have done it both ways. Generally your limited in choices with the complete assembly of course. One thing to consider is your ability to get to some of these components and to break them free. Given age and such I would expect at minimum to need a good breaker bar and some PB Blaster.

With rear main seal thats not a job for a beginner IMHO but you didnt note that as an issue previously. Question is is it a leak or a weep? If a weep keep an eye on it and fix what needs fixing immediately.

What your dealing with is the uncertainty of a old car the ONLY way your going to not have the worry is to get a new(er) car with a solid warranty and your back to our arguments in earlier posts. Its ultimately your decision if you want to continue to fix this vehicle or ready to pony up upwards of $15k for a newer car with warranty. My cars range in age of 8 years to 25 years they all have quirks/issues but theyre all paid for and I have no interest in trading the piece of mind in for a car payment.

08KBP_VA

I have the drab gray WISHED I had the black

Roblee23

i agree! We all love driving newer cars, but NOTHING beats driving a paid off car! Imho, if your car is paid off, thats more of a reason to put money into to it to keep it going.

Skirmich

Paid Off cars are the best and since I don´t have a huge EGO to satisfy I am happy driving old used cars and for me buying a used car is like driving a new car anyway!,

The best part of buying a used car is that your expectations are never high enough to be disappointed, It will in most cases exceed your expectations.
While a New Car has to meet and exceed your expectations to overcome the money you will have to spend in the coming years, So its easier to be letdown.. Specially if you get a Lemon because you have to absolutely have that new X car Generation that has a new fancy engine and transmission *Cough Cough 2G TL Cough Cough..

Roblee23

​​​​​​Exactly!

ExcelerateRep

I would stick with what you have! 135k miles isn't too bad, and it is going to cost you more to get into a new car, essentially no matter what you do.

If you're looking for a cheaper option on the breaks we have Acurazine Brake packages, these get you StopTech rotors, stainless steel lines, and pads for a great price!

You can see them here: http://hoa.excelerateperformance.com/xlr8-performance/acurazine-brake-packages/g-73363.aspx

boorah623

Well guys, you've pretty much convinced me to stick with it and attempt the DIY of those things.

The shop came back and said the booster vacuum hose is not the problem, it's the booster itself. They replaced it for about $470 :-/. I think where I live has abnormally high prices based on what you guys are telling me about the pricing. It's not a dealer but a local shop that's quite reputable (except for the diagnosis of this brake problem I guess).

I watched a large number of YouTube videos (I really like the ChrisFix ones) on brake caliper (and rotor and pad) replacement as well as some on strut replacement. Some specific to our cars some not. Seems pretty straightforward, but I have a few questions. I'll probably create some new thread topics for those projects, but here are a few to start:

- When I see people put in new brake pads, it's just a matter of putting them in the slot. I guess when the caliper piston engages, it'll just press the pads against the rotor. But what happens when you release the brake? I imagine the pistons retract, but do the pads retract too and move away from the rotor? Or are the pads always lightly in contact with the rotor when the brake is not engaged?
- I looked online, particularly at RockAuto, for caliper + rotor + pad packages, OE equivalent or slightly better. It seems a lot of calipers being sold are "re-manufactured"... is this a problem generally?

Buzzman996

Remanufactured or reused calipers is quote common because they are forgings. Which is why there is a small deposit when you buy them so they can have your old ones. Do the rotors, calipers and pads all in one shot for the rear. You could replace the brake lines withsteel braided if you'd like for a little better feel. Then do Legend calipers for when you replace the front, that is another thread though. 135k on a 2G is nothing, your just starting to break the engine in.

tripleguy

Original tranny? That's the only thing that would concern me.

08KBP_VA

Sounds like right decision so far

pads should not be in contact with rotor on regular operation to install the new pads you will likely have to retract the piston or compress it to allow you to be able to insert the new pads since they will be thicker. There is a tool that's used but you can use C clamps and your old pads to compress, you'll have to remove cover of brake reservoir to remove pressuref

no issue with remans all they usually do is rebuild calipers replacing the piston and boot and bleeder screw cleaning it off then selling it.

Roblee23

Im getting ready to upgrade my entire suspension, im going with slotted ventilated rotors and ceremic pads front and rear. And i agree, 135k is nothing at all for these engines, at 118k, im right behind you.

boorah623

Roblee23, what parts are you going to be using for all this?

CP13

I would help you with all of these if I only have the time and space... R/R the struts are not that hard, but do take some time... you can always borrow the spring compressor from AZ or AA...

Buzzman996

My recommendation would be do brakes first then do the struts. Watch some u tube videos. Brakes are easy on these cars. Make sure you get the right tools for the job. Don't go near the TL with channel locks, cresent wrenchs, or anything with a (1/4) in front of it.

boorah623

I watched a lot of videos these past few days. Both jobs look simple enough. The toughest part of the brake job seems to be getting those screws off so that the rotor can come off, right?

As for tools, I already learned my lesson on the crescent wrenches when I was trying to do the brake flush. I got the appropriate ones now and if I don't, I'll buy them.

thoiboi

One of these will make easy work of that: TEKTON 3/8 in. Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece)-2905 - The Home Depot


The first time I did my brakes i was stuck on those rotor set screws as well. Tried for the better part of a day to do it before giving up and taking a trip to the 'Depot. Saved my sanity.

boorah623

Appreciate the thought! If I run into problems I'll call you :P. I'm just going to do it in my driveway when it gets warmer, no place special. You can come by and get those headlights too.

As for the struts, I don't really want to go through the trouble of buying all the parts individually. The all-in-one setups are probably not as good performance-wise, but I am more interested in confirming whether they'll correct the "pull" of the car. Also, the spring compressors kind of scare me... saw some youtube videos where they popped off.

08KBP_VA

So why did the shop tell you to replace before the alignment cuz its the right thing to do (which it is after a change to suspension) or they trying to rule out whats causing the lean? If you did hit a curb there could be other things causing the lean IIRC a bad strut shouldnt cause it to lean in an of itself the blown strut may have been a by product of the curb hit and there is another issue as well to a suspension component causing it to lean. The one thats leaking is the one on side of the car thats drooping?

boorah623

Well, to be honest, not sure how good this shop is at diagnosing stuff. They simply recommended replacing the struts first because one is leaking pretty bad. I didn't bring up the lean/pull this time with them because previously, they weren't really sure what was causing it. Same thing with another shop--couldn't tell what was causing it but did note the leaking strut. Basically here's the history on this lean/pull issue:

- in 2008, I hit a curb while driving at a good speed, passenger side front wheel
- tried to get alignment done afterwards, took it to an alignment specialist eventually... the problem was always there
- one day, one shop recommended changing the ball joint and did it and whatever they did, after that, the problem went away
- then later on, got a tire rotation, problem was back
- i think the strut leak is more recent, but not sure, and yes, it is on the side that pulls/leans
- these were all kind of done at different places in different states so kind of difficult to go back

Anyways, here are some pictures I took of that area, passenger front end. I think you can clearly see the leak. What else do you guys see? I see a lot of rust, but no shop has said it's a problem yet.

Does that control arm look OK?
I see some rust on the strut itself, no?
Just the rotor and brake caliper... doesn't look too bad right?
This is the fork and the tie rods right? How do they look?




Here's the leak, it's pretty bad, no?

thoiboi

I'd pay attention to those axles too..

08KBP_VA

The pics help but dont point to silver bullet for your lean. The strut is leaking yes but a leaking strut wont cause the lean a broken one will. Just being clear replace the strut because its leaking I wouldnt bet my paycheck that it will cure your lean.

That rust seems superficial not an issue from these pics. After ball joint replaced the "problem" went away? The problem is the lean? I think thats a stronger clue than the leaking strut. How bad is the "lean" we talking millimeters or inches?

boorah623

So, to clarify, "lean" may be the wrong word. When I drive, the steering wheel has a pull to the right, especially on roads that are sloped towards the right (so most roads). So, if I let go of the wheel, the car and the wheel will start turning right. I haven't actually checked the height of the car or anything, so probably using the word "lean" incorrectly. "Pulls to the right" is more appropriate (I posted a thread on this a while back here: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-t...-right-948998/).

Yeah, this problem has been here so long that I don't really expect a silver bullet, especially since I've taken it to multiple places and no one has figured out a definitive answer. However, there was that one experience where they replaced the ball joint (not because I complained about the pull, but they said it was needed) and yes, I couldn't believe it myself, the problem went away inadvertently. I'd let go of the wheel and the car would stay straight, no pulling or anything. So, I thought maybe it was just a bad ball joint. However, after the next tire rotation, it was back. I'm not knowledgeable at all about suspension and stuff (or cars in general ), so I don't really know how replacing the ball joint would make it go away (I don't really even know what a ball joint is for ) and how come it came back after tire rotation.

So, basically, the thought now is, replace strut since it's leaking. Then get the alignment and see where it goes from there.

Roblee23

idk yet, im still searching around for the best parts. If you know any, feel free to let me know.

SuperGreg

^^^ Same here. I wouldn't try a brake job without this tool. I think I have a different brand but basically the same thing.

I've gone from being apprehensive about doing a brake job, to doing anything from timing belt to swapping the transmission. Brakes are an excellent first step. They are not too hard, but challenging enough that you will get some experience taking stuff apart and putting it back together, and you'll figure out which tools you'd like to have. Struts are a big job, but IF you can get a full assembly (string + strut) do it, you will literally save yourself hours of work. I ran into so many issues with incompatible parts when I did mine it was really frustrating (all the replacement rubber pieces, boots, etc... didn't all fit right).

One thing I noticed from your pics is a lot of rust. Be prepared to have issues getting nuts off. Use some PB Blaster, and get yourself a breaker bar or 1/2" ratchet with a long handle. Gear Wrench has some awesome stuff and you can get it for good prices on Amazon.

Best of luck!