Wheel Bearing DIY
09-09-2011, 12:09 PM
#41
Senior Moderator
before starting this task, i just want make sure that it's the right problem with my car. So my right passenger tire makes noises when i turn the steering wheel. Sounds like a door screeching. getting in and out from the passenger door makes noise as well. At first i thought it was the suspensions, but not sure. any suggestions?
09-09-2011, 01:56 PM
#42
have an alignment shop ck out the parts under the car
might be end link for sway bar allowing contact with certain movement
or other part needs grease or replacement
wheel bearing noises usually start with a whirring, and get worse
might be end link for sway bar allowing contact with certain movement
or other part needs grease or replacement
wheel bearing noises usually start with a whirring, and get worse
01-12-2013, 11:15 AM
#44
Burning Brakes
I have for a G2 TL/CL:
Item 4 (Wheel bearing) Qty 2
Item 19 (Bearing retainer) qty 2
Item 16 (Disk guard) qty 1
Item 18 (Wheel stud) qyt 1
I sold the car before installation.
They are for sale so lets make a deal.
Item 4 (Wheel bearing) Qty 2
Item 19 (Bearing retainer) qty 2
Item 16 (Disk guard) qty 1
Item 18 (Wheel stud) qyt 1
I sold the car before installation.
They are for sale so lets make a deal.
06-13-2013, 12:26 PM
#45
06-17-2013, 08:43 AM
#47
Burning Brakes
Bearings are sealed; no grease
$50 for all parts. (bearings are $90 list each)
$50 for all parts. (bearings are $90 list each)
07-01-2013, 09:15 AM
#48
I'm still in the process of swapping out the front right wheel bearing. I got the knuckle off, which I must say is not as easy as it sounds. Anyway, I'm going to take the knuckle over to NAPA and get them to replace the bearing for me. On post #1, step #13, it says to remove the race by the hub. However, I don't see any instruction for installing a new race. Just wondering if a new part is needed for it...
Thanks!
Vincent
Thanks!
Vincent
07-01-2013, 02:11 PM
#49
never mind. I got my answer at NAPA. The guy there was kind enough to show me the removal and installation process. Got the new bearing pressed. Now I have to wait for the new ABS cable to come in before I re-install the knuckle. Overall, a good learning experience, but I would not encourage a newbie to tackle this job by himself...
Vincent
Vincent
08-26-2013, 06:17 PM
#50
never mind. I got my answer at NAPA. The guy there was kind enough to show me the removal and installation process. Got the new bearing pressed. Now I have to wait for the new ABS cable to come in before I re-install the knuckle. Overall, a good learning experience, but I would not encourage a newbie to tackle this job by himself...
Vincent
Vincent
08-26-2013, 06:21 PM
#51
Well, since I was asked to do a DIY on this, Ive decided to help those who need it and make an official DIY. So here it is.
I was going to take a pic of all the tools and all of the points that need to be taken apart, but since my camera is broken, i will use diagrams from a parts website.
These will be refered to as image 1 and image 2.
Image 1:
Image 2:
So lets start with a list of tools:
17mm wrench
17mm Socket and Ratchet
10mm Socket and Ratchet
Pneumatic Impact Gun
36mm Axle Nut Socket (Autozone)
24mm socket or equivelant
Impact Screwdriver Tool (check rotor change DIY for pic)
Needle Nose Pliers (for cotterpins)
Tie Rod end Puller/seperator
12 ton or higher Hydraulic press (Harbor Freight $120)
possiblya dremel tool with cutting wheel or equivelant
There, now that we have that out of the way we can get started.
1. Obviously your going to have to jack up the car, but before you do that loosen the lug nuts, otherwise you will lower it again and feel like a tool, because you know better then to try to loosen the lugs with the tire off the ground,
2. Remove Wheel
3. Remove Caliper from knuckle ( knuckle is image 1 number 1, yes I know I called it a spindle in the last quick DIY, forgive me please for I was wrong) you will remove the caliper by removing bolts 17 in image 2. You may have to give it a little tug, but it will slide off the disc.
4. Next you must remove the rotor from the knuckle. You will do this by removing screw 20 in image 2 from the hub. This will alow you to seperate the disc from the hub. If you cant pull it off, try hitting the backside with a deadblow hammer, or rubber mallet, where the caliper was because there is no dust shield there.
5. Once the rotor is removed, your going to have to remove the axle nut which is number 21 in image 2. You will definitely need the impact gun for this. I tried using a freaking breaker bar that was longer then I am tall, and it didn't work.
6. Now you have to remove the cotter pin (#17 image 1) from the upper control arm, the cotter pin (#18 image1) for the lower control arm, and for some reason it isnt pictured, but youll have to remove the cotterpin for the tie rod end. You should mark the tie rod end where the threads are, in case it decides to rotate which would mess up your alignment.
Image 1:
Image 2:
7. Now remove the Nuts from the same locations you removed the cotter pins from, using a 17mm socket or wrench.
8. Before you remove the knuckle from the control arms and tie rod end, now would be a good time to disconnect the ABS sensor line (#9 image 1) You will do this by removing bolts (#15 and 19 image 1) from the knuckle using the 10mm socket and ratchet. When removing the sensor from the knuckle be careful not to break or damage it, it may cause problems with your ABS, just pull it straight out and set the wire and sensor on top of the upper control arm.
9. now you will remove the upper control arm, lower control arm, and tie rod end from the knuckle using the tie rod end puller/seperator. This will be easily accomplished for the tie rod end, and for the upper control arm, but for some reason the lower control arm like to get stuck. If this occurs, beat the shit out of the lower control arm where it attatches to the knuckle with a hammer. This will help loosen it and with the aid of the tie rod end puller/seperator it will come out.
10. Now that this is done, you can pull the knuckle out, by lifting the ball joint out of the lower control arm then pull towards you to remove it from the axle. Hard part complete.
11. So you have the knuckle and the hub and are probably wondering where the hell this bearing is that is giving your car an unluxurious ride..... well your almost there. The next step is to press the hub out of the bearing. Now you have two choices:
1. you can choose to take this part to your local machine shop or automotive shop that has a press (call around cause not all of them do) and askt hem to do it, which they will but of course they will make their money off of you or..
2. You can choose to continue doing it yourself, which means that you have a press or just went and bought one, because you wanna learn.
If you chose step one then once you recieve your knuckle back with a beautiful new bearing pressed in for you, then reverse the first 10 steps and your car will be back to normal, take it for a drive and fall in love again, and ask for forgiveness for talking so much shit about your car.
If you choose step 2 then please continue reading....
Image 1:
Image 2:
12. The bearing is #4 in image 2 and the hub is #5 in image 2. The bearing and hub need to come out, but unfortunatley you can only do one at a time. So the hub needs to come out first.
13. Take your knuckle and put it hub side down on the press, make sure that the hub and studs are not touching the press, but that the knuckle is being supported and the hub had room to come out. take your a 24mm socket or equivelant and place it on the back side of the hub, the side facing up, and begin to press out the hub. It may take a little force then all of a sudden pop or it may come out smooth, I had both. Now you also might have the inner race of the bearing stuck on the hub..... this is ok, but will require the use of a dremel with cutting wheel. To remove that race, you need to cut one or 2 solid cuts into the race as far as you can without cutting the hub. Then take a chisel and hammer and crack that son of a bitch open. There will be a hairline fracture, but that is enough for you to pry the race off.
14. Ok that part sucked, now you remove the reatining ring(#19 in image 2) from the knuckle so you can press out the bearing. At this point you can choose to remove that dust shield like I did, because all it does is help trap in heat for your breaks and that is the last thing that we want. It will also make it easier to press out the bearing.
15. now you will press out the bearing by placing ther knuckle face down, and this time using your 36mm axle nut ontop of the bearing and press down on that with the press, once again you may get a loud pop after applying what you may think way too much pressure, or it may come out smoothly, and like the hub, I had both.
16. Thats pretty much it, make sure you note which way the bearing was in there, there are two different sides to the bearing. there is a side with a rubber seal, and a side that is all metal. The all metal side goes outboard. Press the new bearing in, install the retaining ring, press the hub back into place then follow all the steps in reverse to get your car back to normal.
Now this just saved you a couple hundred bucks, yeah it gave you a little headache, maybe you lost some sleep, had a couple of arguements witht he wife/girlfriend/boyfriend/mom/dad or whomever, but dont you feel that much better about yourself, that you were able to accomplish something that didnt think you could do. i know thats how I felt. Oh and the first side is going to be the hardest. Its going to be your learning one, but once you start the second one it will feel like you have been doing it for years. I put mine all back together in less then 10 minutes.
I hope this DIY will help and inspire some of you to do it yourself, and save the money that some company would have loved to get their hands on.
I was going to take a pic of all the tools and all of the points that need to be taken apart, but since my camera is broken, i will use diagrams from a parts website.
These will be refered to as image 1 and image 2.
Image 1:
Image 2:
So lets start with a list of tools:
17mm wrench
17mm Socket and Ratchet
10mm Socket and Ratchet
Pneumatic Impact Gun
36mm Axle Nut Socket (Autozone)
24mm socket or equivelant
Impact Screwdriver Tool (check rotor change DIY for pic)
Needle Nose Pliers (for cotterpins)
Tie Rod end Puller/seperator
12 ton or higher Hydraulic press (Harbor Freight $120)
possiblya dremel tool with cutting wheel or equivelant
There, now that we have that out of the way we can get started.
1. Obviously your going to have to jack up the car, but before you do that loosen the lug nuts, otherwise you will lower it again and feel like a tool, because you know better then to try to loosen the lugs with the tire off the ground,
2. Remove Wheel
3. Remove Caliper from knuckle ( knuckle is image 1 number 1, yes I know I called it a spindle in the last quick DIY, forgive me please for I was wrong) you will remove the caliper by removing bolts 17 in image 2. You may have to give it a little tug, but it will slide off the disc.
4. Next you must remove the rotor from the knuckle. You will do this by removing screw 20 in image 2 from the hub. This will alow you to seperate the disc from the hub. If you cant pull it off, try hitting the backside with a deadblow hammer, or rubber mallet, where the caliper was because there is no dust shield there.
5. Once the rotor is removed, your going to have to remove the axle nut which is number 21 in image 2. You will definitely need the impact gun for this. I tried using a freaking breaker bar that was longer then I am tall, and it didn't work.
6. Now you have to remove the cotter pin (#17 image 1) from the upper control arm, the cotter pin (#18 image1) for the lower control arm, and for some reason it isnt pictured, but youll have to remove the cotterpin for the tie rod end. You should mark the tie rod end where the threads are, in case it decides to rotate which would mess up your alignment.
Image 1:
Image 2:
7. Now remove the Nuts from the same locations you removed the cotter pins from, using a 17mm socket or wrench.
8. Before you remove the knuckle from the control arms and tie rod end, now would be a good time to disconnect the ABS sensor line (#9 image 1) You will do this by removing bolts (#15 and 19 image 1) from the knuckle using the 10mm socket and ratchet. When removing the sensor from the knuckle be careful not to break or damage it, it may cause problems with your ABS, just pull it straight out and set the wire and sensor on top of the upper control arm.
9. now you will remove the upper control arm, lower control arm, and tie rod end from the knuckle using the tie rod end puller/seperator. This will be easily accomplished for the tie rod end, and for the upper control arm, but for some reason the lower control arm like to get stuck. If this occurs, beat the shit out of the lower control arm where it attatches to the knuckle with a hammer. This will help loosen it and with the aid of the tie rod end puller/seperator it will come out.
10. Now that this is done, you can pull the knuckle out, by lifting the ball joint out of the lower control arm then pull towards you to remove it from the axle. Hard part complete.
11. So you have the knuckle and the hub and are probably wondering where the hell this bearing is that is giving your car an unluxurious ride..... well your almost there. The next step is to press the hub out of the bearing. Now you have two choices:
1. you can choose to take this part to your local machine shop or automotive shop that has a press (call around cause not all of them do) and askt hem to do it, which they will but of course they will make their money off of you or..
2. You can choose to continue doing it yourself, which means that you have a press or just went and bought one, because you wanna learn.
If you chose step one then once you recieve your knuckle back with a beautiful new bearing pressed in for you, then reverse the first 10 steps and your car will be back to normal, take it for a drive and fall in love again, and ask for forgiveness for talking so much shit about your car.
If you choose step 2 then please continue reading....
Image 1:
Image 2:
12. The bearing is #4 in image 2 and the hub is #5 in image 2. The bearing and hub need to come out, but unfortunatley you can only do one at a time. So the hub needs to come out first.
13. Take your knuckle and put it hub side down on the press, make sure that the hub and studs are not touching the press, but that the knuckle is being supported and the hub had room to come out. take your a 24mm socket or equivelant and place it on the back side of the hub, the side facing up, and begin to press out the hub. It may take a little force then all of a sudden pop or it may come out smooth, I had both. Now you also might have the inner race of the bearing stuck on the hub..... this is ok, but will require the use of a dremel with cutting wheel. To remove that race, you need to cut one or 2 solid cuts into the race as far as you can without cutting the hub. Then take a chisel and hammer and crack that son of a bitch open. There will be a hairline fracture, but that is enough for you to pry the race off.
14. Ok that part sucked, now you remove the reatining ring(#19 in image 2) from the knuckle so you can press out the bearing. At this point you can choose to remove that dust shield like I did, because all it does is help trap in heat for your breaks and that is the last thing that we want. It will also make it easier to press out the bearing.
15. now you will press out the bearing by placing ther knuckle face down, and this time using your 36mm axle nut ontop of the bearing and press down on that with the press, once again you may get a loud pop after applying what you may think way too much pressure, or it may come out smoothly, and like the hub, I had both.
16. Thats pretty much it, make sure you note which way the bearing was in there, there are two different sides to the bearing. there is a side with a rubber seal, and a side that is all metal. The all metal side goes outboard. Press the new bearing in, install the retaining ring, press the hub back into place then follow all the steps in reverse to get your car back to normal.
Now this just saved you a couple hundred bucks, yeah it gave you a little headache, maybe you lost some sleep, had a couple of arguements witht he wife/girlfriend/boyfriend/mom/dad or whomever, but dont you feel that much better about yourself, that you were able to accomplish something that didnt think you could do. i know thats how I felt. Oh and the first side is going to be the hardest. Its going to be your learning one, but once you start the second one it will feel like you have been doing it for years. I put mine all back together in less then 10 minutes.
I hope this DIY will help and inspire some of you to do it yourself, and save the money that some company would have loved to get their hands on.
08-26-2013, 07:28 PM
#52
The "race" is the part that contains the bearing assembly's "ball" bearings, keeping them in place.
Once the wheel hub and brake components are removed to access the steering knuckle, you will need to press out the entire wheel bearing from the knuckle itself and then proceed to have the new bearing pressed back in. It's best to let the pros do this part of the job....unless ya have access to a machine shop press.
Once the wheel hub and brake components are removed to access the steering knuckle, you will need to press out the entire wheel bearing from the knuckle itself and then proceed to have the new bearing pressed back in. It's best to let the pros do this part of the job....unless ya have access to a machine shop press.
08-26-2013, 07:30 PM
#53
The "race" is the part that contains the bearing assembly's "ball" bearings, keeping them in place.
Once the wheel hub and brake components are removed to access the steering knuckle, you will need to press out the entire wheel bearing from the knuckle itself and then proceed to have the new bearing pressed back in. It's best to let the pros do this part of the job....unless ya have access to a machine shop press.
Once the wheel hub and brake components are removed to access the steering knuckle, you will need to press out the entire wheel bearing from the knuckle itself and then proceed to have the new bearing pressed back in. It's best to let the pros do this part of the job....unless ya have access to a machine shop press.
Last edited by jevans06; 08-26-2013 at 07:33 PM.
08-26-2013, 07:51 PM
#54
Step #13 guides ya through removing the bearing's "race" should it become dislodged from the actual wheel bearing assembly unit.
The outer "race" of the WB can separate from it's internal ball bearings. Thus the necessity for extra effort with removal of the WB assembly caused by the "race" pulling apart from the balls....hate when that happens, but it oftentimes will.
The outer "race" of the WB can separate from it's internal ball bearings. Thus the necessity for extra effort with removal of the WB assembly caused by the "race" pulling apart from the balls....hate when that happens, but it oftentimes will.
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jevans06 (08-26-2013)
08-26-2013, 07:53 PM
#55
Step #13 guides ya through removing the bearing's "race" should it become dislodged from the actual wheel bearing assembly unit.
The outer "race" of the WB can separate from it's internal ball bearings. Thus the necessity for extra effort with removal of the WB assembly caused by the "race" pulling apart from the balls....hate when that happens, but it oftentimes will.
The outer "race" of the WB can separate from it's internal ball bearings. Thus the necessity for extra effort with removal of the WB assembly caused by the "race" pulling apart from the balls....hate when that happens, but it oftentimes will.
08-27-2013, 11:48 AM
#56
I'm getting ready to tackle this job. Went out and bought the press yesterday. Does anyone have any advise on pressing in the bearing? The reason I ask is because, if the race can separate from the bearing while pressing it out. What are some good precautions to take while pressing the new one in to prevent this?
08-27-2013, 01:06 PM
#57
Senior Moderator
Make sure what ever you use to press the bearing in is big (and strong) enough to cover the whole bearing.
08-27-2013, 04:42 PM
#58
I plan on using a impact socket. So it needs to cover the surface of the outer race of the bearing then? should I grease up the bearing and knuckle so it slides in easier?
08-28-2013, 07:26 AM
#59
Make sure that the knuckle is clean. Polish up any surface imperfections where the bearing will enter. Don't overdo the lube, but what Fsttyms1 stated earlier is the most critical thing to keep in mind, .....in applying strong even centered pressure to the bearing while pushing it home.
08-28-2013, 11:31 AM
#60
Make sure that the knuckle is clean. Polish up any surface imperfections where the bearing will enter. Don't overdo the lube, but what Fsttyms1 stated earlier is the most critical thing to keep in mind, .....in applying strong even centered pressure to the bearing while pushing it home.
10-05-2013, 02:27 PM
#61
Im not surprised that I'm struggling with this DIY -
I drive a 2005 Acura TL manual and am trying to replace the front bearings.
I bought the assembly with bearings already in them.
I got as far as step 3 before I started running into issues.
First issue: the writeup says the word bolts but only says #17. Are both of the bolts that seem to hold the caliper onto the knuckle bolt 17? The bolts have the number 10 on them yet none of the sockets you listed in the tool list fit these 2 bolts that i THINK i have to take off...which makes me wonder if I shouldnt be using this DIY on my application.
Even if I can get these 2 bolts off I noticed that between the caliper and the knuckle the line is hard and wont move...which makes me think I need to remove the 2 smaller bolts that connect the soft and hard lines together and hold them on the knuckle. It seems logical to me that I would have to remove these 2 small bolts so I can physically move the caliper out of my way once I get it removed from the rotor.
Am I making any sense?
Ok, btw...i just looked up and realized this was for 2nd gens...which basically leads me to another question...does anyone have a link to a thread for 3g tl diy on this topic? I have searched and searched and this is the only thread that I can find that has any helpful info.
I drive a 2005 Acura TL manual and am trying to replace the front bearings.
I bought the assembly with bearings already in them.
I got as far as step 3 before I started running into issues.
First issue: the writeup says the word bolts but only says #17. Are both of the bolts that seem to hold the caliper onto the knuckle bolt 17? The bolts have the number 10 on them yet none of the sockets you listed in the tool list fit these 2 bolts that i THINK i have to take off...which makes me wonder if I shouldnt be using this DIY on my application.
Even if I can get these 2 bolts off I noticed that between the caliper and the knuckle the line is hard and wont move...which makes me think I need to remove the 2 smaller bolts that connect the soft and hard lines together and hold them on the knuckle. It seems logical to me that I would have to remove these 2 small bolts so I can physically move the caliper out of my way once I get it removed from the rotor.
Am I making any sense?
Ok, btw...i just looked up and realized this was for 2nd gens...which basically leads me to another question...does anyone have a link to a thread for 3g tl diy on this topic? I have searched and searched and this is the only thread that I can find that has any helpful info.
Last edited by Thomasv; 10-05-2013 at 02:40 PM.
10-05-2013, 07:11 PM
#63
Im not surprised that I'm struggling with this DIY -
I drive a 2005 Acura TL manual and am trying to replace the front bearings.
I bought the assembly with bearings already in them.
I got as far as step 3 before I started running into issues.
First issue: the writeup says the word bolts but only says #17. Are both of the bolts that seem to hold the caliper onto the knuckle bolt 17? The bolts have the number 10 on them yet none of the sockets you listed in the tool list fit these 2 bolts that i THINK i have to take off...which makes me wonder if I shouldnt be using this DIY on my application.
Even if I can get these 2 bolts off I noticed that between the caliper and the knuckle the line is hard and wont move...which makes me think I need to remove the 2 smaller bolts that connect the soft and hard lines together and hold them on the knuckle. It seems logical to me that I would have to remove these 2 small bolts so I can physically move the caliper out of my way once I get it removed from the rotor.
Am I making any sense?
Ok, btw...i just looked up and realized this was for 2nd gens...which basically leads me to another question...does anyone have a link to a thread for 3g tl diy on this topic? I have searched and searched and this is the only thread that I can find that has any helpful info.
I drive a 2005 Acura TL manual and am trying to replace the front bearings.
I bought the assembly with bearings already in them.
I got as far as step 3 before I started running into issues.
First issue: the writeup says the word bolts but only says #17. Are both of the bolts that seem to hold the caliper onto the knuckle bolt 17? The bolts have the number 10 on them yet none of the sockets you listed in the tool list fit these 2 bolts that i THINK i have to take off...which makes me wonder if I shouldnt be using this DIY on my application.
Even if I can get these 2 bolts off I noticed that between the caliper and the knuckle the line is hard and wont move...which makes me think I need to remove the 2 smaller bolts that connect the soft and hard lines together and hold them on the knuckle. It seems logical to me that I would have to remove these 2 small bolts so I can physically move the caliper out of my way once I get it removed from the rotor.
Am I making any sense?
Ok, btw...i just looked up and realized this was for 2nd gens...which basically leads me to another question...does anyone have a link to a thread for 3g tl diy on this topic? I have searched and searched and this is the only thread that I can find that has any helpful info.
10-05-2013, 08:23 PM
#64
Yeah, .....wheel bearings and ball joints can be intimidating for beginner DIY'ers !!!
But the basic mechanical principles apply across the board, regardless of model or year. Can be tough if ya don't have the proper tools. Loan a kit from your local auto parts store, .....it'll make the job much easier than improvising.
But the basic mechanical principles apply across the board, regardless of model or year. Can be tough if ya don't have the proper tools. Loan a kit from your local auto parts store, .....it'll make the job much easier than improvising.
10-05-2013, 09:13 PM
#65
I was just questioning the write up in the sense that I may need to follow slightly different instructions. I had all the tools listed in the DIY above but ended up still needing others that werent listed so it made me second guess it. =[ I broke down and spent 30 bucks on a chiltons just to put my mind at ease. The book answered my questions. I actually made progress and as of right now I have 1 of 2 rotors off. One rotor came off with ease but the other one is hanging on tight. All the screws came out, it just wont let go.
I tried the 17 mm and i swear it didnt fit. I will double check tomorrow which ones I used but at the time I was a little flustered and confused but now im good.
Jevans, thanks for the last bit of info btw.. I had the forked tool but didnt want to tear my boot which was my biggest concern other than the sensor being destroyed. I happen to have a pitman and I will definitely try that method tomorrow.
When I get the knuckle out im not done...still gotta install this new v2 I got. =)
What do you guys clean the caliper with anyway? While im in here doing this work I'd like to make this caliper look really good. Any suggestions? Car is npb with camel tan int.
I tried the 17 mm and i swear it didnt fit. I will double check tomorrow which ones I used but at the time I was a little flustered and confused but now im good.
Jevans, thanks for the last bit of info btw.. I had the forked tool but didnt want to tear my boot which was my biggest concern other than the sensor being destroyed. I happen to have a pitman and I will definitely try that method tomorrow.
When I get the knuckle out im not done...still gotta install this new v2 I got. =)
What do you guys clean the caliper with anyway? While im in here doing this work I'd like to make this caliper look really good. Any suggestions? Car is npb with camel tan int.
Last edited by Thomasv; 10-05-2013 at 09:16 PM.
10-06-2013, 09:24 AM
#66
I was just questioning the write up in the sense that I may need to follow slightly different instructions. I had all the tools listed in the DIY above but ended up still needing others that werent listed so it made me second guess it. =[ I broke down and spent 30 bucks on a chiltons just to put my mind at ease. The book answered my questions. I actually made progress and as of right now I have 1 of 2 rotors off. One rotor came off with ease but the other one is hanging on tight. All the screws came out, it just wont let go.
I tried the 17 mm and i swear it didnt fit. I will double check tomorrow which ones I used but at the time I was a little flustered and confused but now im good.
Jevans, thanks for the last bit of info btw.. I had the forked tool but didnt want to tear my boot which was my biggest concern other than the sensor being destroyed. I happen to have a pitman and I will definitely try that method tomorrow.
When I get the knuckle out im not done...still gotta install this new v2 I got. =)
What do you guys clean the caliper with anyway? While im in here doing this work I'd like to make this caliper look really good. Any suggestions? Car is npb with camel tan int.
I tried the 17 mm and i swear it didnt fit. I will double check tomorrow which ones I used but at the time I was a little flustered and confused but now im good.
Jevans, thanks for the last bit of info btw.. I had the forked tool but didnt want to tear my boot which was my biggest concern other than the sensor being destroyed. I happen to have a pitman and I will definitely try that method tomorrow.
When I get the knuckle out im not done...still gotta install this new v2 I got. =)
What do you guys clean the caliper with anyway? While im in here doing this work I'd like to make this caliper look really good. Any suggestions? Car is npb with camel tan int.
For the caliper cleaning. Just search it on this site. There are some good DIYs on cleaning up or painting them.
For the rotor. If both the screws are out and it still won't come off. Just tap on the back of it with a hammer. Preferably a soft malet. It should pop off.
I have a question. Did you buy the entire knuckle assembly for both sides just because your wheel bearings needed to be replaced?
10-06-2013, 12:30 PM
#67
if the assembly that houses the bearings is called the knuckle assembly then yes...i bought the assembly because the prices of bearings were actually more expensive at our local parts stores by themselves so I figured, why wouldnt I just buy the assembly too?
I also got the rotor off too using that exact method. I didnt read your advice I just went out and decided a rubber mallet to the backside of the rotor would do the trick. I did try some heat and tapping the front but this side is the one with the defective bearing so I figure that had some play in it being more stubborn than the passengers side. Im currently tackling the sensor. It seems pretty stubborn too and I dont want to break it...the guide says to pull it straight out...any tips here?
I also got the rotor off too using that exact method. I didnt read your advice I just went out and decided a rubber mallet to the backside of the rotor would do the trick. I did try some heat and tapping the front but this side is the one with the defective bearing so I figure that had some play in it being more stubborn than the passengers side. Im currently tackling the sensor. It seems pretty stubborn too and I dont want to break it...the guide says to pull it straight out...any tips here?
Last edited by Thomasv; 10-06-2013 at 12:37 PM.
10-06-2013, 01:56 PM
#69
if the assembly that houses the bearings is called the knuckle assembly then yes...i bought the assembly because the prices of bearings were actually more expensive at our local parts stores by themselves so I figured, why wouldnt I just buy the assembly too?
I also got the rotor off too using that exact method. I didnt read your advice I just went out and decided a rubber mallet to the backside of the rotor would do the trick. I did try some heat and tapping the front but this side is the one with the defective bearing so I figure that had some play in it being more stubborn than the passengers side. Im currently tackling the sensor. It seems pretty stubborn too and I dont want to break it...the guide says to pull it straight out...any tips here?
I also got the rotor off too using that exact method. I didnt read your advice I just went out and decided a rubber mallet to the backside of the rotor would do the trick. I did try some heat and tapping the front but this side is the one with the defective bearing so I figure that had some play in it being more stubborn than the passengers side. Im currently tackling the sensor. It seems pretty stubborn too and I dont want to break it...the guide says to pull it straight out...any tips here?
10-06-2013, 02:10 PM
#70
no, i bought a "hub assembly" - i didnt buy a new knuckle. Its called Precision hub assemblies. Made in China. Ozark automotive. Am i confusing you or am i confused...idk either way
ive tried 3 pitman pullers on the upper bearing and have no success with either one. One has 2 arms and has been my best bet so far...once it gets too much tension it pops and loses its grip. I have another one that has 3 arms and I cant even get it to grip at all with any pressure...The last one i have would probably work because it slides under the boot and has the best covereage to keep the grip but I cant tighten the vice becuase this one has a long rod in there to help you turn it and it hits the knuckle.
fadsjasfl asjl;jsfsfjsadfl;jasdfkl;jadsfiadsjfo ipesaujvio[wej fdsklfnlsd;afjlsjfl;sfajslsld;fjsl;fjsld;kfj;ksad: annoyed:
ive tried 3 pitman pullers on the upper bearing and have no success with either one. One has 2 arms and has been my best bet so far...once it gets too much tension it pops and loses its grip. I have another one that has 3 arms and I cant even get it to grip at all with any pressure...The last one i have would probably work because it slides under the boot and has the best covereage to keep the grip but I cant tighten the vice becuase this one has a long rod in there to help you turn it and it hits the knuckle.
fadsjasfl asjl;jsfsfjsadfl;jasdfkl;jadsfiadsjfo ipesaujvio[wej fdsklfnlsd;afjlsjfl;sfajslsld;fjsl;fjsld;kfj;ksad: annoyed:
10-06-2013, 02:32 PM
#71
[QUOTE=Thomasv;14697309]no, i bought a "hub assembly" - i didnt buy a new knuckle. Its called Precision hub assemblies. Made in China. Ozark automotive. Am i confusing you or am i confused...idk either way
ive tried 3 pitman pullers on the upper bearing and have no success with either one. One has 2 arms and has been my best bet so far...once it gets too much tension it pops and loses its grip. I have another one that has 3 arms and I cant even get it to grip at all with any pressure...The last one i have would probably work because it slides under the boot and has the best covereage to keep the grip but I cant tighten the vice becuase this one has a long rod in there to help you turn it and it hits the knuckle.
fadsjasfl asjl;jsfsfjsadfl;jasdfkl;jadsfiadsjfo ipesaujvio[wej fdsklfnlsd;afjlsjfl;sfajslsld;fjsl;fjsld;kfj;ksad: annoyed:[/
This pitman arm puller is the one you need. It will pop it right off
ive tried 3 pitman pullers on the upper bearing and have no success with either one. One has 2 arms and has been my best bet so far...once it gets too much tension it pops and loses its grip. I have another one that has 3 arms and I cant even get it to grip at all with any pressure...The last one i have would probably work because it slides under the boot and has the best covereage to keep the grip but I cant tighten the vice becuase this one has a long rod in there to help you turn it and it hits the knuckle.
fadsjasfl asjl;jsfsfjsadfl;jasdfkl;jadsfiadsjfo ipesaujvio[wej fdsklfnlsd;afjlsjfl;sfajslsld;fjsl;fjsld;kfj;ksad: annoyed:[/
This pitman arm puller is the one you need. It will pop it right off
10-06-2013, 08:18 PM
#72
Senior Moderator
no, i bought a "hub assembly" - i didnt buy a new knuckle. Its called Precision hub assemblies. Made in China. Ozark automotive. Am i confusing you or am i confused...idk either way
ive tried 3 pitman pullers on the upper bearing and have no success with either one. One has 2 arms and has been my best bet so far...once it gets too much tension it pops and loses its grip. I have another one that has 3 arms and I cant even get it to grip at all with any pressure...The last one i have would probably work because it slides under the boot and has the best covereage to keep the grip but I cant tighten the vice becuase this one has a long rod in there to help you turn it and it hits the knuckle.
fadsjasfl asjl;jsfsfjsadfl;jasdfkl;jadsfiadsjfo ipesaujvio[wej fdsklfnlsd;afjlsjfl;sfajslsld;fjsl;fjsld;kfj;ksad: annoyed:
ive tried 3 pitman pullers on the upper bearing and have no success with either one. One has 2 arms and has been my best bet so far...once it gets too much tension it pops and loses its grip. I have another one that has 3 arms and I cant even get it to grip at all with any pressure...The last one i have would probably work because it slides under the boot and has the best covereage to keep the grip but I cant tighten the vice becuase this one has a long rod in there to help you turn it and it hits the knuckle.
fadsjasfl asjl;jsfsfjsadfl;jasdfkl;jadsfiadsjfo ipesaujvio[wej fdsklfnlsd;afjlsjfl;sfajslsld;fjsl;fjsld;kfj;ksad: annoyed:
10-07-2013, 06:39 PM
#73
He will need to press out the hub, then remove the c-clip, then press the bearing out. Then reverse the order with new bearing and hub. But it seems to me that he is in over his head.
11-13-2013, 06:28 PM
#75
Yeah, a great thread it is.....and don't be afraid to add some additional tips as ya take the project on.
Check out the other adjoining components for wear, when ya got things torn apart. Good luck !!!
Check out the other adjoining components for wear, when ya got things torn apart. Good luck !!!
06-23-2014, 12:13 PM
#76
This was a great DIY!
I had a similar issue as others in that the ABS sensor broke while attempting removal.
Parts store didn't have one, so i'll find one cheap online. I just threw it together anyway.
It drives fine without the sensor, I just have an ABS light on until the part comes.
I was surprised to see people's suggestions on the axle nut removal...
I stick a screwdriver through the caliper and into the rotor to keep it stationary.
Then I take the breaker bar and persuasion pipe to the axle nut.
I had a similar issue as others in that the ABS sensor broke while attempting removal.
Parts store didn't have one, so i'll find one cheap online. I just threw it together anyway.
It drives fine without the sensor, I just have an ABS light on until the part comes.
I was surprised to see people's suggestions on the axle nut removal...
I stick a screwdriver through the caliper and into the rotor to keep it stationary.
Then I take the breaker bar and persuasion pipe to the axle nut.
The following users liked this post:
3.2TLc (06-23-2014)
09-30-2014, 05:32 PM
#79
The axle's spindle nut's torque should be tightened to 245N-m(25.0kgf-m, 181lbf-ft).
03-08-2015, 05:03 PM
#80
well, i just did this today ... i was going to give some important feedback on putting it back together ... but i realize i may have just screwed up.
When pressing the hub back in, the race of the bearing popped out. I though it was due to not placing a support on the back of the bearing to hold it in place while pressing the hub in. I managed to press the back side of the bearing back in. So my input was going to be to put a support back there when pressing in the hub.
But i just realized I put the bearings with rubber side outboard instead of metal side outboard which probably explains why the race what popping out the back when pressing the hub back in.
Im not planning in keeping this car for more than 1 more year. is it okay if i drive it like this or is there a safty issue?
When pressing the hub back in, the race of the bearing popped out. I though it was due to not placing a support on the back of the bearing to hold it in place while pressing the hub in. I managed to press the back side of the bearing back in. So my input was going to be to put a support back there when pressing in the hub.
But i just realized I put the bearings with rubber side outboard instead of metal side outboard which probably explains why the race what popping out the back when pressing the hub back in.
Im not planning in keeping this car for more than 1 more year. is it okay if i drive it like this or is there a safty issue?