Track day prep

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Old 07-04-2015, 03:55 PM
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Track day prep

Hey guys, could anyone recommend me which transmission oil cooler to buy? Also going to do the two piston caliper upgrade, these to part#s frc10627 frc10628 are correct right?
Old 07-04-2015, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by JayHTea
Hey guys, could anyone recommend me which transmission oil cooler to buy? Also going to do the two piston caliper upgrade, these to part#s frc10627 frc10628 are correct right?
Drain and fill with ATF DW-1 (can take higher temps due to its synthetic base oil).
Others will chime in with the pros/cons of the trans cooler and how our problem is more complicated than that.

You may be better off waiting to put a new accord transmission in there...

Last edited by thelastaspec; 07-04-2015 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 07-04-2015, 05:34 PM
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Hold on, sorry to hijack this thread... can we use these remanufactured calipers on our car?
Amazon.com: Raybestos FRC10627 Professional Grade Remanufactured, Semi-Loaded Disc Brake Caliper: Automotive Amazon.com: Raybestos FRC10627 Professional Grade Remanufactured, Semi-Loaded Disc Brake Caliper: Automotive

Do our rotors and pads just swap over?
Old 07-04-2015, 07:25 PM
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^ You need both different part numbers...
And yes you re-use our Brake Bracket for the pads and rotor.
Old 07-04-2015, 08:34 PM
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TL rotors TL pads 95 Legend LS-C (COUPE) calipers AND get a set of SS brake lines- will change everything for the better- even stock calipers benefit from SS lines!!
L and R calipers are different is why 2 numbers, you can buy the caliper by itself for less, I don't have that number it was posted on here a year ago. Reminder they go opposite of design, 1 marked L goes on right side-passenger side of car R goes on Driver side
They make several dual piston calipers for the 95 legend- that number is the ons with closest in size to each other pistons- best for us

We used to steal parts from the new semi loaded kit (comes with bracket and bolts- bracket wont fit- I tried!)
till we learned the slider pins were not identical so we stopped doing that!
Use all TL parts to attach caliper and bracket. the bracket and bolts all from the TL
No need for big center spring clip that may be included with new calipers

Yes parts store LOVE to get back a set of TL calipers that are more popular to sell than some old 90s Legend~ little do they know!

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 07-04-2015 at 08:47 PM.
Old 07-04-2015, 08:41 PM
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for 1st track day you wont need to worry about too much brake wear or even caliper upgrade
hawk hps or your preferred performance pad EBC etc.will do
Stock pads are not enough for track day
2nd and 3rd gear will get a lot of use, new dw-1 fluid will help there
No need for a cooler- ask fsttyms1 who had 3 trans with coolers fail before the 2 without!! then he went 6 speed~

If you plan to replace the trans eventually- track day with the auto trans you know and be aware its going to put wear on it
1st day is pretty casual, most of the time in the 45-90mph range, a little full throttle on straights,, and no passing by other cars unless waved around
Its about safety not speed as you learn car control, Smooth brings FAST
Tape record every briefing you get with an instructor- too much info to remember it all!
Study the track map before going, watch youtube race vids of track- know where it turns left and right and you are halfway ahead of the rest of the noob group
Usually 3 run groups -No track days, some days and allowed by instructor to go faster with passing, and the let them go and have fun= fastest group

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 07-04-2015 at 08:48 PM.
Old 07-04-2015, 08:52 PM
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I used to race an rx7 on stock 1 piston calipers and bogus brake pads
So upgrades are not mandatory just for a track day
Have fun learning is the key, no trying to be the fastest possible right away
Your instructors will help you attain speed

most drivers return from 1st track day saying- How did I survive this many years? Should have gone off a cliff long ago with my pathetic brake and turn in style~

Practice finding apex and turn points on the street- 25mph is better than 80mph!
it forces you to drive the car to where you want it- not let it drift out there by luck~
Old 07-04-2015, 08:58 PM
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lastaspec YES that's the ones- what a great price!!
see above post re: throw away Legend bracket and pins that come with it

USE TL rotor, pads, bracket and its bolts and slider pic
Yes it bolts right up except swap caliper L to R side of car- that puts bleeder on top

Note:Teflon tape=a few wraps around bleeder screw threads- most don't fit nice an tight- will be a pita on bleeding brake fluid system!!
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:01 PM
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reminder for all doing brake fluid flush
order is LF RF RR LR driver front then clockwise around the car
use dot4 fluid or real racers prefer dot 5.1,,not 5.0 that's bad stuff- 5.1 for hardcore racers

Prefill new calipers from an oil squirt can with new dot4 as much as possible-
will save 30 minutes of frustration on bleeding later!
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
lastaspec YES that's the ones- what a great price!!
see above post re: throw away Legend bracket and pins that come with it

USE TL rotor, pads, bracket and its bolts and slider pic
Yes it bolts right up except swap caliper L to R side of car- that puts bleeder on top

Note:Teflon tape=a few wraps around bleeder screw threads- most don't fit nice an tight- will be a pita on bleeding brake fluid system!!
Awesome! Thanks! I got a set of powerslot rotors and hawk ceramic pads so thats great they would carry over!

Im loving how improved my feel has become from bleeding my brakes with 33oz of fluid each year (for 7$ why wouldn't you). Like a different car. On my 88 300zx turbo you can bleed them without even jacking up the car as the bleeder is in a great spot.
Old 07-05-2015, 02:02 AM
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Thanks for the info guys!
01tl4tl I've been to a track day with my friends before and did briefing as well. I also work at K1 speed so I know the basics of how a track day works and know what to do. I have some experience with driving and know the basics of driving and I could use more experience. This will be my second time at Thunderhill but first time driving.

As for prepping, I just wanted to do a brake bleed, caliper upgrade, hawk hp, and putting bfgoodrich sport comp 2s on my new wheels.
Old 07-05-2015, 09:58 AM
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LOL Jay, I was the SCCA worker transport driver at TH for a while!
Makes you really learn apex and turn in and exit points when forced to stay at 25mph!
You have to drive out to them, not slide at speed - excellent training!
On days I ran instructors out to the corners between sessions- they often remarked- `How can Worker Trans nail the apex,
while my students cant get within 5 feet of it?!!`
(they didn't know about my Natl race license)

Much of what I put in my post is for future readers, not just an answer for OP.
If you already know about track days- great, if not- go learn about them and attend several!
Have fun!!

New brake pads and tires need at least 100 miles of bedding/use before hitting the track = or you will learn an expensive off-course lesson at turn 2 or 3 (original course) or have no brakes approaching turn 1
Brake pads contain resin glues that have excess- needs wearing out- outgassing before hard use
New tires contain a silicone coating that acts as a release agent for the tires exiting the molding machine
Driving will wear it off

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 07-05-2015 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:13 AM
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don't worry about the calipers before track day- your 1st time as driver means slow group and wont need serious brakes
You DO want to relearn how the car reacts to new calipers and pads etc before the track day, that means a trip partway to Yosemite is in order
The viewing spot/rest area at 5000 feet on hwy 120 is a good turnaround, without paying $15 to enter the park itself

Get SS brake lines, if not already installed- will make any caliper better!
removes the dreaded rubber line expansion = loss of brake pressure to caliper under hard braking

I would seafoam thru gas tank 1 can to half tank- do that twice plus clean TB air plate before track day, Time and heat are seafoams friend- that's why 2 times rather than full tank and two cans

Lube throttle return springs and throttle cables
Clean egr passage and ports inside of intake manifold- remove from car to do = if not already done
Its great when you have a shops facilities and discount eh!

PM me if you would like other suggestions, I have been an in-car instructor for car club track days. Have helmet, will stand in Pit Lane with thumb out!

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 07-05-2015 at 10:23 AM.
Old 07-05-2015, 10:20 AM
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add to your list: atf full capacity change, that will help 3rd gear more than a cooler will
At TH it will be 2nd 3rd a tick of 4th, down to 3rd and stay there thru half or more of the course, 2nd again and up thru 4th, down the hill to T-15

tip- lightly touching the brakes `sets` the nose, dropping weight onto its suspension before turn-in to apex. Big help entering T2 and T3 SET THE NOSE!
Practice these skills on the street every day.
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Old 07-05-2015, 04:02 PM
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They've already got all the info you need in this thread, I just wanted to make a quick statement to be very careful of brake fade. If you notice your brakes feel a little spongier than they did a couple laps earlier, it's time to significantly slow down. I've seen people doing trackdays in street cars that have never experience brake fade and end up running straight on at turn 1.
Old 07-06-2015, 12:19 AM
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01tl4tl I am worrying about brakes because I drive very aggressively and have experienced brake fade in the mountains. I would just like a peace of mind, last time I saw a bunch of smoke from the brakes from most of my friends which reminds me that I was also planning to make an air duct to my rotors.

RONE, brake fade is especially scary in a tight mountain road course haha. I plan to do a brake bleed after each session
Old 07-06-2015, 10:48 AM
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talk with the instructors, You should be able to late hard brake well enough to avoid the smoking pads you have seen
extended medium effort is worse than short and near max ability of pads
At TH you do use the brakes a little or a lot on almost every turn, but there is 10-15 seconds between each turn so plenty of time for brake cooling
Mountain roads tend to have the corners close together- seconds of cooling before braking- lots of 60mph to 25-35mpg action
That's going to get everything hot!

Yes the legend calipers do offer superior pad to piston contact area, and a middle finger on outer side to support pad, resulting in improved braking-
If you are concerned, slap them on now and go practice the new-found brake torque
SS lines will make the most feel-able differance

Again, its your 1st track day so not going to be a full out race effort - you do more for yourself driving a tick slower and concentrate on being smoother, hitting your marks = by the end of the day you are the fast guy!!

Its a good idea to bleed the brakes between sessions, always did it on the showroom stock car running Sears Point

If you install dot5.1, I wouldn't worry about it so much

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 07-06-2015 at 10:53 AM.
Old 07-06-2015, 11:04 AM
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I was thinking about important things for prep:

Get under the seats with a flashlight, remove every scrap of garbage you find!
Want to know how many students have a Titleist 9 or childs toy or girlfriends what-not bag come flying out from under seat--
under the brake pedal at the first good use of brakes?
Empty everything- glovebox, center box, seat pocket on rear of seats

Bring 2 big plastic garbage bags to store trunk items and floor mats while at track-
and the other to give the driver next to you!

Wide roll of BLUE painters tape for headlights, and if you value the paint on nose of car- mask it off like there is no tomorrow~
Use an outside search engine to look on here for track days- there are many pics and threads - especially of the taping
Our search doesn't pick up 3 letters, so Day wont help- yahoo or Google or whatever with track day + acurazine.com should yield results
A few years ago I wrote extensively on the subject, and using fingers and toes to drive the car
Not your shoulder and hip, think about it!! Finesse brings car control
Any idiot can push the go faster pedal, control is where its at -each session getting faster and closer to the limits of the car

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 07-06-2015 at 11:15 AM.
Old 07-06-2015, 11:12 AM
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Each car gets 10-15 seconds between as they leave pit road
So its safe for you to accelerate and do a quick hard stab on the brakes- to lock the seatbelts tight!
Warn your instructor if riding with you!

That's important- moving around in the seat is a major problem -bracing yourself takes attention away from driving
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