Timing belt help/questions
01-29-2017, 09:00 PM
#1
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Timing belt help/questions
I have a 2003 Acura TL. I'm planning on doing my timing belt replacement. I have a few concerns with equipment/procedures.
1. Will a 6 gallon 2hp 2.5 cfm air compressor with a 700 ft/lbs impact wrench be able to take out the crank shaft bolt? Or with the lisle Honda socket 19mm
2. If that's not sufficient what size would be able to and/or can I use the starter method(hooking socket and ratchet to bolt then start car with ignition turned off)?
3. I've seen many people say that there's a few bolts that are hard to get out EX: timing belt cover... What tools should I buy in order to make it easier to get some of these hard bolts to get out. Something like those ratchet type wrenches or maybe a impact wrench that is in the shape of a cylinder? I also saw a closed wrench that extended out a bit.
3. Parts that I plan on getting. Timing Belt,Water Pump,Timing Belt Tensioner,Idler Pulley,Power Steering Belt,A/C Compressor Belt. Do I need to buy any of the oil seals or other seals?
1. Will a 6 gallon 2hp 2.5 cfm air compressor with a 700 ft/lbs impact wrench be able to take out the crank shaft bolt? Or with the lisle Honda socket 19mm
2. If that's not sufficient what size would be able to and/or can I use the starter method(hooking socket and ratchet to bolt then start car with ignition turned off)?
3. I've seen many people say that there's a few bolts that are hard to get out EX: timing belt cover... What tools should I buy in order to make it easier to get some of these hard bolts to get out. Something like those ratchet type wrenches or maybe a impact wrench that is in the shape of a cylinder? I also saw a closed wrench that extended out a bit.
3. Parts that I plan on getting. Timing Belt,Water Pump,Timing Belt Tensioner,Idler Pulley,Power Steering Belt,A/C Compressor Belt. Do I need to buy any of the oil seals or other seals?
01-29-2017, 09:10 PM
#2
Moderator
You get too many specifics.
You are in the right track, About the cover YES it is the hardest part to get out specially the bolts nearest to the shock tower you will probably need a U-Joint Extension with a smallest ratch your hands can fit.. Once you removed the covers you are home free to some degree, the remaining bolts aren't hard to get but room is still cramped.
About the oil seals, You can change the Crank Pulley and Cam Pulley seals BUT some folks are on the fence of doing so since they say they got leaks after changing the seals even if they were properly installed... I personally changed all 3 of them and haven't had an issue with new leaks.
I used the starting method to remove the crank pulley and it worked like a charm..
You can if money allows it buy the lighter aluminum crank pulley and install it as I did as a bonus.
You are in the right track, About the cover YES it is the hardest part to get out specially the bolts nearest to the shock tower you will probably need a U-Joint Extension with a smallest ratch your hands can fit.. Once you removed the covers you are home free to some degree, the remaining bolts aren't hard to get but room is still cramped.
About the oil seals, You can change the Crank Pulley and Cam Pulley seals BUT some folks are on the fence of doing so since they say they got leaks after changing the seals even if they were properly installed... I personally changed all 3 of them and haven't had an issue with new leaks.
I used the starting method to remove the crank pulley and it worked like a charm..
You can if money allows it buy the lighter aluminum crank pulley and install it as I did as a bonus.
02-01-2017, 10:18 AM
#4
First of all the hardest part of this job can be to remove the crank bolt. I also had some issues the first time keeping the cams from moving after releasing the tensioner. I have removed three separate Acura crank bolts and every time I needed the Honda crank holding tool and
A 4' cheater bar with a pipe with all weight and it fights you the whole time but it comes out.
Most people are unsuccessful with an air gun below 1000 ft/lb. I bet your setup won't break it free. Get an Aircat 1150 or similar.
Or they make a socket - on Amazon -
"Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda" that you can try with your existing gun.
I would stay away from using the "bump the starter" method. If a bolt is really stuck you risk possibly damaging something else in the engine. No need to take that risk.
A 4' cheater bar with a pipe with all weight and it fights you the whole time but it comes out.
Most people are unsuccessful with an air gun below 1000 ft/lb. I bet your setup won't break it free. Get an Aircat 1150 or similar.
Or they make a socket - on Amazon -
"Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda" that you can try with your existing gun.
I would stay away from using the "bump the starter" method. If a bolt is really stuck you risk possibly damaging something else in the engine. No need to take that risk.
02-02-2017, 03:41 PM
#5
I've seen videos on youtube where people use a torch to heat up the bolt then the impact wrench spins it right off. I haven't tried it myself and I'm not sure if there is any risk of damaging anything.
The hard part is getting enough room to use a long breaker bar. I started with some extensions to clear the wheel well, but they twisted so much it wasn't usable. To do that I really think you need a 3/4" drive with extensions. I used my electric impact on it over and over, and I tried going back and forth (tighten/loosen/etc) to break it loose. Doused it in PB Blaster. Finally got it loose by putting the breaker bar directly on the bolt facing down with no extensions to twist, my brother under the car pushing on the bar and me at the front of the car with my face smashed against the bumper pulling on the bar. Prob took us two or three hours before we got it loose.
The hard part is getting enough room to use a long breaker bar. I started with some extensions to clear the wheel well, but they twisted so much it wasn't usable. To do that I really think you need a 3/4" drive with extensions. I used my electric impact on it over and over, and I tried going back and forth (tighten/loosen/etc) to break it loose. Doused it in PB Blaster. Finally got it loose by putting the breaker bar directly on the bolt facing down with no extensions to twist, my brother under the car pushing on the bar and me at the front of the car with my face smashed against the bumper pulling on the bar. Prob took us two or three hours before we got it loose.
02-03-2017, 03:03 PM
#6
I wasn't able to get any impact wrench to break the crank bolt. Once I got the Honda crank holding tool from Advance Auto ($24.00) I was able to use my secret weapon: 2 foot 1/2" breaker bar with a motorcycle front fork over it. Jump up and down on it until one or the other gives up. Score so far - breaker bar: 2, crank bolts: 0.
The timing covers are not hard to get at, You can use a 1/4" drive or just a open ended wrench. It is slow but it gets the job done. They go back on much easier than they come off.
I like the idea of those ratcheting box wrenches but haven't picked one up yet.
I didn't change any oil seals. Let sleeping dogs lie.
Good luck.
The timing covers are not hard to get at, You can use a 1/4" drive or just a open ended wrench. It is slow but it gets the job done. They go back on much easier than they come off.
I like the idea of those ratcheting box wrenches but haven't picked one up yet.
I didn't change any oil seals. Let sleeping dogs lie.
Good luck.