Nala Gonzalez

Okay so I'm new here so I apologize if something is wrong with my post
I have an Acura TL 2003 with 222k miles on it and I'm having some starting problems. She does cold starts fine but when it's a warm restart she will just keep turning over until the battery dies, sometimes when she turns over she has a super rough idle and then turns off after a second or after I take the key off the start position. She'll start the first time, the second time she turns over a little longer, the third time longer than the 2nd and then the 4th or 5th she'll turn over until the battery dies or does that rough idle I was taking about. If I try within 15 minutes though, she'll be just fine. I've noticed that if there's like a >3 hour grace period she'll restart as many times as you want.

Me2151

Common issue. Something with fuel pressure I think. Lookup Heatsoak on the site.

Nala Gonzalez

Forgot to mention as this is probably super important

When I'm out and she's acting up with the turning over but won't start thing I described above, if someone else jump starts me then she'll start up like nothing happened, so could this be a battery issue?

musiclevelz5

Could be your main relay. That is also a common issue.

thelastaspec

Check ground connections when the car is warm.
Perhaps when the car is warm, something is expanding and not making good electrical contact.
With a poor connection warm, you need the extra jump start to overcome that and start the car.

See if you can borrow a clamp on DC ammeter like this:

Use the min/max feature to record how many amps the car is drawing when it is cold vs warm while turning the key to start the car.

Nala Gonzalez

Actually another update (sorry I apologize I'm new so I can't edit my posts instead),

I got stranded once again (kept cranking until dead) but this time when someone jumped me, just kept cranking and cranking and cranking so the guy just left as obviously he has a life to attend. After a while I kinda just ran out of options, I remember reading somewhere that when the starter is super hot it might not work or something (even though it cranks ) I went and bought cold water, let it warm up a bit, poured a little bit on the starter and sat there for a while until someone could jump me, this time it started but rough idle maybe 500 rpms i just floored the gas pedal and then after like 3 seconds of rough idle, rpms jumped and it went back smooth.

Here's a little sample situation and if you need something clarified don't hesitate to ask:

Lets say I have to go to three locations today, The Tax Place, The Check Place, and The Grocery Place. First time I turn on car in morning (keep in mind its cold all day) the car has no hesitations to start, in a fraction of a turning the key, done, it's on. I drive for lets say 10 minutes and get to The Tax Place, and come back, turn on car it hesitates bit but still turns on, I drive to The Check Place, go in come back out and turn on car, hesitates a lot longer at least 1 second. I drive to The Grocery Place, come back try to turn on car, It's done, it's had enough, someone might be willing to jump me and she'll just crank for eternity until she decides to turn on and I go home. Cycle repeats. If I try turning on the car as soon as I turn it off when I arrive at The Grocery Place, car will turn on, once again, no hesitation, so there must be a delay.

Well thanks for your time, I hope I can find the solution soon because this car IS my main driver.

Me2151

1st stop cranking it until it dies. Just gunna wear out your starter. Crank it for maybe 10 seconds tops if it doesnt start then wait 5 minutes then 10 more seconds. 2nd did you check your grounds?

I have this issue on hot days or after the car has been running for awhile. After 15 minutes it will only crank. What I do to fix it is turn the key to the ON position but not crank and fully press gas pedal 3 times then try to start it. Usually it will start rough then even out after a minute for me.

Seabright

When the Main Relay goes bad

Maybe the description of the main relay problem will help you diagnose if this might be a possibility.

Nala Gonzalez

Me2151:
by cranking until dies, I did actually mean giving it a rest, I'd probably crank for like 5 seconds wait 10. I have visually checked grounds but I'll try to buy a multimeter to check them. Thank you for your response.

Seabright:
Thank you for that article I'll make sure to read it.

I'll keep you updated.

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

sounds like you may have two issues going on at the same time. 1st the starter could be on the way out. Does the engine turn over when you are attempting to start? If so does it sound like it wants to fire? If it sounds like it wants to fire than you don't have a starter problem. 2nd with 220K you probable need a new primary O2 sensor (use only a Denso, Amazon has then $45) If you have a jack & stands you can change it your self in about 15-20 mins, borrow the wrench from an auto parts store. Just did this on an 03 TL that would not start well or idle and would not trough a code.

01acls

You have some kind of a fuel problem. The correct way to diagnose is to check the fuel pressure.

Or start throwing parts at it. Fuel Pressure Regulator or Fuel Relay.

You can check to see if the fuel relay is working or not by relieving the fuel pressure to zero psi with the car off. You can do that by cracking a fuel line and then retighten.

With zero psi, now turn the car key on to ignition two. Now crack open the fuel line again and see if you have fuel pressure? If you do the the fuel relay is working.

Be careful of fuel being spraying around the engine. If it gets on the battery it could start a fire.

Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)

With the engine at operating temperature. Turn engine off and unplug the FPR vacuum hose. Monitor the vacuum outlet port for the durating time of your "No start". If you see fuel leaking out at anytime then the FPR Zis defective. Replace the FPR.

It could also be a defective evap system or leaking injectors.

ErickUa5

Quick way to know if the Main relay is working, Turn the key to position II and look at the check engine light it should stay on for 3 seconds then shut off.

The starter could be on its way out causing too much draw on the battery not letting the ECU work. Could be why it starts right up when you jump it.

Have you tested the battery ? Some autoparts test them for free.