SRS module replacement

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Old 03-27-2010, 12:41 PM
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SRS module replacement

Anyone ever done this? I don't see any evidence of such on here. This thing looks like a b!tch to get out. My car is a rebuild, thus all restraint warranties are gone anyway, so I'm not worried about voiding any warranties. My SRS light is on, and the codes show that the airbags deployed, and the only way to clear the light and re-establish functionality is to replace the module. Here are some pics. This first is zoomed out to show where the unit is located. The red circle indicates the only place I see access.



This next one zooms in for a closer look. The yellow plug has to be undone. As you can see, it is all protected/blocked by steel piping.



This zooms in even closer. You can see one of the Torx bolts that needs to be removed right under the yellow plug. According to the service manual, there is another Torx bolt to the right of this one, but I can't even see the thing.



Here's the view from the passenger side. It would be easy to remove this bolt, but I'm not sure how the module would even come out of there.



Any ideas or experience with removing this? thanks
Old 03-27-2010, 01:25 PM
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The manual says to remove the console panel, which it looks like you have already done.
It shows three torx screws two of which you can see. The third is on the drivers side to the front. They look to be hard to get to. It would probably be easier to remove the whole dash.
Old 03-27-2010, 01:27 PM
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Just a guess but it looks like if you remove the radio/CD player that would give you access.
Old 03-27-2010, 07:48 PM
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Thanks for the tip. It was that, and more, but I got it out. The audio and climate-control unit (one piece) had to come out, then the duct-work for the rear air vents. If you plan to do this, first unplug your negative battery cable. You don't want the SRS module to receive a mixed signal, and inadvertently fire-off the airbags.

In this pic, the blue circles are where mounting screws have to come out for the audio/climate-control unit. There are two side-mounting screws on each side, then one face plate screw on each side, so a total of six screws. The red circles are connectors that have to come out. Two on the top that connect to the back of the climate-control unit, and three on the bottom that connect to the back of the audio unit. You'll probably want to remove (unscrew) the shift knob first to make room for pulling out the unit. Once you remove the shift knob (and after removing all the screws), you can actually pull the unit out and rest it on top of the shifter rod while working with the plugs in the back.



In this version of the same pic, the red circles show where the duct-work for the rear vents were attached. Before removing any of these, you need to unmount the arm rest (two screws in the bottom of the storage area) and slide it back to free the part of the duct-work behind the shifter. Back to the circles now. There are two screws on the bottom that are attached to a bracket; the third circle on the bottom left is where a grounding wire attaches to that same bracket. Take all of those out first. The top two red circles are where white plastic rivets have to be popped out. Grab the black plastic of the duct-work right underneath the plastic rivets, and pull firm and steady.



In the next pic you can see the SRS unit up close. First, pull out the plastic rivet/zip-tie circled in blue at the bottom of the pic. You can squeeze this one underneath (and pull up on top) to get it out. There are three Torx mounting-screws that have to be removed, and three plugs (yellow and numbered in red) that have to be released. The order in which you remove these (screws first, plugs second...or vice versa) is up to you , but if you can manage to get the plugs undone first in the cramp space provided, it will make it easier to remove the back-left mounting screw. You can clearly see one of the mounting screws in the bottom-left of this pic. The tough one to reach is in the back-left, underneath the wiring harness for plug #3; it is possible to reach that screw without unplugging #3 first, but it's tough...trust me. There is a third screw on the passenger side, but it's easy.



Now, unplugging the plugs. #1 is easy, just press down on the tab on top, and pull. Incidentally, there is a false plug right next to #1 - no wires in it, but you can pull it out if you want. Plugs 2 & 3 come out differently than #1. Grab the top and bottom with your thumb and forefinger where the red stripe is, and pull in the direction shown. The bottom half of the plug will slide over the top half, then continue pulling (a little harder) to release the entire plug from the SRS module. Done!
Old 03-28-2010, 04:06 AM
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do you even have airbags in their containers?

Many salvage title cars with deployment have found things like dirty tennis shoes and newspapers stuffed inside the airbag compartments!
Old 03-28-2010, 11:54 AM
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A valid question, but I just checked, and 'yes'. I removed the glove box and looked up into the chamber, and it's definitely in there. I also removed the steering wheel airbag just to check the back of it, and it looks ready to go as well.

I will be sending my SRS module to these guys http://www.myairbags.com/ for resetting, reinstall everything, and let you guys know if it clears my light. Oh, and I'm also replacing the driver's side seat belt (and retractor) since the pretensioner was shot in it. The passenger's side seat belt was replaced by my friendly dealership.

I'll be glad to get this SRS stuff behind me so I can focus on some fun stuff.
Old 04-07-2010, 04:50 PM
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Quick follow-up: Using MyAirBags.com was great. I sent the module to them overnight. They received it, fixed it, and re-shipped it the same day, and I had it back two days after that. They can ship 2-3 day priority, or overnight for a little more.

My SRS light was still on after re-installation, but I knew I still had a seat belt pre-tensioner problem. I took my car to be scanned for SRS codes, and like I thought, still have a seat belt problem. But the good news is that the air bag deployment code is gone! Once I replace my seat belt, I can reset the SRS myself, and should be good to go.

$55 plus my shipping cost to send it is a lot better than $400 for a new unit! Now if only there was a place that could fix seat belt pre-tensioners...
Old 04-09-2010, 11:21 PM
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R&R with a brand new seat belt today from the dealership, and was able to clear the SRS light after a final reset. So, after two brand new front seat belts, and sending my SRS module off for a reset, my rebuilt car finally has no self-restraint system problems. Lesson learned: do not buy a used car with the SRS light on until the seller has it fixed. I was told that mine just needed to be reset when I bought the car.
Old 08-13-2010, 04:21 PM
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Question, how did you reset the srs light?

I was in a front end accident and both aribags in the front came out, I wasn't wearing the seatbelt but they both locked up anyway.

I replaced the airbags, seatbelts, and got the srs module fixed at myairbags.com

After installing the module, the srs light is still on, you mentioned you did some sort of reset after replacing the seatbelts, can you please tell me how you reset it?
Old 08-13-2010, 07:13 PM
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have you looked in the DIY

or send a PM as this thread has 4 months sitting...
Old 08-27-2010, 07:13 PM
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Thumbs up AIRBAG MODULE RESET BY www.MyAirbags.com SUCCESSFUL!

Hey GUYS!

I read your thread and sent my "after accident" airbag module off to www.MyAirbags.com. They reset it,and sent it back to me really fast and the light went out! I just wanted to thank you for referring me and it sure beats the hundreds the "Stealership Dealership" wanted to charge me for a new one!

I'll pass on the favor and recommend the MyAirbags.com guys on your after collision airbag resets. I called them at 678-778-8890.

Thanks for your help guys!
Old 08-31-2010, 10:56 PM
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It's a great service. Glad to hear it worked out for you. There is a DIY somewhere on here for resetting the SRS system. I used a paper clip as a jumper wire, but it is tricky since you only have a few seconds to make the connections - took me a few tries. I read how someone else used some small gauge regular electrical wire - much better idea.
Old 09-01-2010, 02:34 PM
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Here is the procedure, use a wire or paperclip instead of the jumper:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7938808/SRS_Reset.pdf
Old 04-01-2012, 03:07 PM
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***I'm reposting my original post, and updating the link to the pics per request.***

Thanks for the tip. It was that, and more, but I got it out. The audio and climate-control unit (one piece) had to come out, then the duct-work for the rear air vents. If you plan to do this, first unplug your negative battery cable. You don't want the SRS module to receive a mixed signal, and inadvertently fire-off the airbags.

In this pic, the blue circles are where mounting screws have to come out for the audio/climate-control unit. There are two side-mounting screws on each side, then one face plate screw on each side, so a total of six screws. The red circles are connectors that have to come out. Two on the top that connect to the back of the climate-control unit, and three on the bottom that connect to the back of the audio unit. You'll probably want to remove (unscrew) the shift knob first to make room for pulling out the unit. Once you remove the shift knob (and after removing all the screws), you can actually pull the unit out and rest it on top of the shifter rod while working with the plugs in the back.



In this version of the same pic, the red circles show where the duct-work for the rear vents were attached. Before removing any of these, you need to unmount the arm rest (two screws in the bottom of the storage area) and slide it back to free the part of the duct-work behind the shifter. Back to the circles now. There are two screws on the bottom that are attached to a bracket; the third circle on the bottom left is where a grounding wire attaches to that same bracket. Take all of those out first. The top two red circles are where white plastic rivets have to be popped out. Grab the black plastic of the duct-work right underneath the plastic rivets, and pull firm and steady.



In the next pic you can see the SRS unit up close. First, pull out the plastic rivet/zip-tie circled in blue at the bottom of the pic. You can squeeze this one underneath (and pull up on top) to get it out. There are three Torx mounting-screws that have to be removed, and three plugs (yellow and numbered in red) that have to be released. The order in which you remove these (screws first, plugs second...or vice versa) is up to you , but if you can manage to get the plugs undone first in the cramp space provided, it will make it easier to remove the back-left mounting screw. You can clearly see one of the mounting screws in the bottom-left of this pic. The tough one to reach is in the back-left, underneath the wiring harness for plug #3; it is possible to reach that screw without unplugging #3 first, but it's tough...trust me. There is a third screw on the passenger side, but it's easy.



Now, unplugging the plugs. #1 is easy, just press down on the tab on top, and pull. Incidentally, there is a false plug right next to #1 - no wires in it, but you can pull it out if you want. Plugs 2 & 3 come out differently than #1. Grab the top and bottom with your thumb and forefinger where the red stripe is, and pull in the direction shown. The bottom half of the plug will slide over the top half, then continue pulling (a little harder) to release the entire plug from the SRS module. Done!
Old 04-03-2012, 02:00 PM
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Can't view the pics.
Old 08-25-2015, 06:53 PM
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One more time adding pics. Hopefully they stick this time.








Old 11-08-2015, 06:48 PM
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MDX SRS module removal

Srs control unit can be easily accessed by removing the vertical carpet covered panels in the foot wells. For the drivers side, the vertical carpet covered panel ( roughly 4 " tall by 18 " long) to the right of the gas pedal pops off exposing the control unit. Passenger side left side of foot well same size panel. Using JDJOHN84 's excellent images removal was simple. Three bolts need to be removed then remove the connectors. Be sure to disconnect the battery before starting this process. Good Luck
Old 12-02-2017, 08:09 PM
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removing srs module

Originally Posted by jdjohn84
Thanks for the tip. It was that, and more, but I got it out. The audio and climate-control unit (one piece) had to come out, then the duct-work for the rear air vents. If you plan to do this, first unplug your negative battery cable. You don't want the SRS module to receive a mixed signal, and inadvertently fire-off the airbags.

In this pic, the blue circles are where mounting screws have to come out for the audio/climate-control unit. There are two side-mounting screws on each side, then one face plate screw on each side, so a total of six screws. The red circles are connectors that have to come out. Two on the top that connect to the back of the climate-control unit, and three on the bottom that connect to the back of the audio unit. You'll probably want to remove (unscrew) the shift knob first to make room for pulling out the unit. Once you remove the shift knob (and after removing all the screws), you can actually pull the unit out and rest it on top of the shifter rod while working with the plugs in the back.



In this version of the same pic, the red circles show where the duct-work for the rear vents were attached. Before removing any of these, you need to unmount the arm rest (two screws in the bottom of the storage area) and slide it back to free the part of the duct-work behind the shifter. Back to the circles now. There are two screws on the bottom that are attached to a bracket; the third circle on the bottom left is where a grounding wire attaches to that same bracket. Take all of those out first. The top two red circles are where white plastic rivets have to be popped out. Grab the black plastic of the duct-work right underneath the plastic rivets, and pull firm and steady.



In the next pic you can see the SRS unit up close. First, pull out the plastic rivet/zip-tie circled in blue at the bottom of the pic. You can squeeze this one underneath (and pull up on top) to get it out. There are three Torx mounting-screws that have to be removed, and three plugs (yellow and numbered in red) that have to be released. The order in which you remove these (screws first, plugs second...or vice versa) is up to you , but if you can manage to get the plugs undone first in the cramp space provided, it will make it easier to remove the back-left mounting screw. You can clearly see one of the mounting screws in the bottom-left of this pic. The tough one to reach is in the back-left, underneath the wiring harness for plug #3; it is possible to reach that screw without unplugging #3 first, but it's tough...trust me. There is a third screw on the passenger side, but it's easy.



Now, unplugging the plugs. #1 is easy, just press down on the tab on top, and pull. Incidentally, there is a false plug right next to #1 - no wires in it, but you can pull it out if you want. Plugs 2 & 3 come out differently than #1. Grab the top and bottom with your thumb and forefinger where the red stripe is, and pull in the direction shown. The bottom half of the plug will slide over the top half, then continue pulling (a little harder) to release the entire plug from the SRS module. Done!
I know this thread is pretty old, thought someone might still be able to shed some light.

I am in the same boat (car) but can't seem to remove the module. I have found one torx on each side and one on the left back side that had ground wires. Somehow it is till connected. It seems a bit looser but not ready to come out. Any ideas if there could be another bolt somewhere?
Old 12-02-2017, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by swalch@stanford.edu
The manual says to remove the console panel, which it looks like you have already done.
It shows three torx screws two of which you can see. The third is on the drivers side to the front. They look to be hard to get to. It would probably be easier to remove the whole dash.

Is it possible that there is a clip underneath the unit that needs to be pulled or cut to remove the module? After removing the three torx bolts it still seems attached and doesn't want to come out
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