DIY: Door Actuator Replacement W/O Removing anything inside

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Old 01-09-2009, 10:41 AM
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DIY: Door Actuator Replacement W/O Removing anything inside

So I have a 99 TL and this may only apply to this year so 00-03 owners check before performing. These steps are only for the front door since thats the only thing I needed to replace. Sorry for the limited pictures, but it's hard to take them and its pretty useless.




Steps

1. Remove door panel: When removing the door panel use the door light to help you see in the panel. The door light will stay on since the door is open. Take note that you should perform this in a timely fashion so not to drain the battery.

2. Unbolt the window guide at the bottom by removing the single 10mm bolt at the bottom of the door. This will allow you to move the window guide back and forth for room to manuver the actuator out. And remove the two eletrical harnesses for the actuator.

3. The actuator is attached to the bottom of the latch for the door. The actuator and latch is attached to a series of metal rods that goto: 1 external handle, 1 lock, 1 internal handle.

4. Remove the internal handle rod from the latch by pushing the purple plastic clip out and pulling up on the rod.

If your hands are larger you may want to remove the three screws (at the end of the door that hold the latch to door, use a large screwdriver end b/c they strip easy.

5. Remove the two large head screws from the actuator. This for the front door holds on a metal shield for the back of the actuator. slide the metal backing plate down and twist it around the window guide and out.

6. Remove the two small screws, 1 top and 1 right side, that hold the actuator to the latch. These are the only screws that actually hold the actuator to the door/latch.

Take note how the top of the actuator is positioned. It slips between two pieces of the latch.

7. Begin to slide the actuator out, take note that the "fin" that moves up and down to unlock the door is attached via a small plastic nobb to the latching mechanism. pull the fin towards you to release the attachment and slide down at the same time.

8. The actuator is now can be guided around the window guide.

9. When installing the new actuator, guide the "fin" to the platic pin or the door lock will only go up or down, not booth. Reattach the lock switch and test it between each trial to make sure you installed it right.

10. Then screw the actuator in place.

11. Install the back platting. This step is hard b/c you have to do it blind. Use the old actuator and plate to check for installation position.

12. Then you're on the home stretch just do everything in reverse.
Old 01-10-2009, 09:05 AM
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nice bro, its always cool to see new DIY. but how about more than ONE pic??
now only if someone cleaned up and sticky'd a new DIY thread with all the random info thats on the zine in one place, oh well...
Old 01-10-2009, 07:56 PM
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Like I said above. The pics taken are useless because you can see anything in the door.
Old 01-18-2009, 11:38 PM
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Very doable repair.

Thx, instructions were perfect. I would add that a small 2"x2" mirror and flashlight are helpful for this repair. Also, use some loctite when putting back the two small screws and remember the back plate is reinserted from below the actuator.
Old 06-03-2010, 01:10 PM
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So...where is the cheapest place these days to get the actuator?
Old 06-03-2010, 04:54 PM
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The actuators are actually pretty cheap from the dealer. I think I paid $35.
Old 06-04-2010, 11:15 AM
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I paid $25 at www.acuracarland.com
Old 06-04-2010, 04:25 PM
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Excellent! Thanks! In the next week I'll have a passenger door I can actually unlock with the FOB!!! Not to mention a dvd nav system.
Old 07-05-2011, 08:41 AM
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Your steps combined with pictures from some of the other posts on replacing the Door Lock Actuator made this a pretty easy task even in 102 degree Houston heat! The only rod I had to disconect was the one on the internal door when taking the door panel off.

Hardest part, lining up the "Fin" blind, I left the sheild off so I could see what I was doing. Snapped the sheild back on after the new Actuator was bolted back on.

Thanks,

Brian
2001 CL (Recalled trans @ 92K, timing belt, water pump 110K, trans 3x3 with Redline D4 @ 130K, OEM spark plugs, Door Lock Actuator Replacement @ 132K, runs like new!)
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