Power Steering Pressure Hose Replacement Tips?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-03-2012, 03:52 PM
  #1  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
marcelft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 71
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Power Steering Pressure Hose Replacement Tips?

Anyone done this before? I got the new hose, and it looks like a beootch to replace. Its preformed and wraps around PS rack. Not much in search on anyone actually doing it, other than someone saying you need a lift because you need 30" of clearance? I dont have a lift, but I have big tall jack stands.
Do I need to take out motor mount, or drop subframe? Tips?
The following users liked this post:
teh CL (12-02-2017)
Old 11-03-2012, 07:28 PM
  #2  
Suzuka Master
 
3.2TLc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 57
Posts: 5,296
Received 784 Likes on 743 Posts
Hey Marcelft, which hose are you referring to ? The "outlet" pressure hose which originates from the top of the PS pump, then going down to the rack's passenger side ?

The top of this outlet hose is mounted to the pump assembly by fitting (2) 6mm bolts.
The "preformed" hose then is attached at the bottom to a steel line from the rack which is specially flared at the end to accept this hose and a "clamp" to secure the hose. Jack the car up first and safely secure with jackstands.....you'll have enough clearance to work. Check it out from underneath before you start the project.

What is the reason for replacing this hose ? The hardest part of the job will be the refill and purging process of the system after the hose's installation. You may want to do some research on this prior to tackling the job.
The following users liked this post:
01tl4tl (11-04-2012)
Old 11-03-2012, 07:45 PM
  #3  
Moderator
 
Skirmich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Baja, México.
Age: 35
Posts: 6,509
Received 1,016 Likes on 867 Posts
I have replace it about 3-4 Months ago long story short is a ROYAL PITA!!!!!!
Dont bother jacking up the car you cant do nothing from beneath (only if your planning Un-Bolting the Rack).

You need to remove the OEM Strut Bar to make room for a Breaker Bar becouse the Pressure Line Bolt is almost Binded for ever into the Rack!
I had to actually use Vise-Grips and Hammer it out to Unbolt it even with it having it Blasted with WD-40 3 days in a Row.

Once you have Unbolted the Rack Bolt then just work your way UP!

The High pressure Line Bolt is the one Lower in the Rack! The one closer to the Floor.

DONT UNBOLT THE 2 SCREWS ON TOP OF POWER S. PUMP UNTIL YOU GET THE RACK BOLT OUT OR YOU WILL WASTE YOUR TIME!!!!!!

Last edited by Skirmich; 11-03-2012 at 07:48 PM.
The following 4 users liked this post by Skirmich:
01tl4tl (11-04-2012), 3.2TLc (11-03-2012), marcelft (11-04-2012), shamal (08-16-2020)
Old 11-03-2012, 09:07 PM
  #4  
Suzuka Master
 
3.2TLc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Age: 57
Posts: 5,296
Received 784 Likes on 743 Posts
Nothing like advice from a well seasoned pro like Skirmich. Thanks, good detailed advice !
Mine was only from looking at a diagram, Dah....nothing is quite that simple. Sorry man !
Old 11-03-2012, 11:27 PM
  #5  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
marcelft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 71
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by Skirmich
I have replace it about 3-4 Months ago long story short is a ROYAL PITA!!!!!!
Dont bother jacking up the car you cant do nothing from beneath (only if your planning Un-Bolting the Rack).

You need to remove the OEM Strut Bar to make room for a Breaker Bar becouse the Pressure Line Bolt is almost Binded for ever into the Rack!
I had to actually use Vise-Grips and Hammer it out to Unbolt it even with it having it Blasted with WD-40 3 days in a Row.

Once you have Unbolted the Rack Bolt then just work your way UP!

The High pressure Line Bolt is the one Lower in the Rack! The one closer to the Floor.

DONT UNBOLT THE 2 SCREWS ON TOP OF POWER S. PUMP UNTIL YOU GET THE RACK BOLT OUT OR YOU WILL WASTE YOUR TIME!!!!!!
Ok, what bolts are you talking about that goes into the rack? Are these the ones which hold the line onto the rack with brackets??
Old 11-04-2012, 01:19 AM
  #6  
Team Owner
 
01tl4tl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 64
Posts: 33,535
Received 1,137 Likes on 1,067 Posts
tip on filling and burping system
buy HONDA ps fluid--it matters...who has the total capacity number--3 pints?

place cardboard under front wheels (reduces friction),
add fluid to res- start engine and add more fluid as its sucked in
have helper turn the wheel fully to the stop in each direction at a slow rate of turn
keep adding fluid as bubbles of air come out

Wont hurt to remove the upper/return hose from res and pump out any residual old fluid in system--see diy section for details

scheduled time for flush = every 60kmiles

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 11-04-2012 at 01:22 AM.
The following users liked this post:
marcelft (11-04-2012)
Old 11-04-2012, 01:22 AM
  #7  
Team Owner
 
01tl4tl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Age: 64
Posts: 33,535
Received 1,137 Likes on 1,067 Posts
before removing hose you can empty the system with the above turning of wheels with upper hose emptying into a container
prevent a lot of mess!

The book says its ok to run it out like that to do a flush
The following users liked this post:
marcelft (11-04-2012)
Old 11-04-2012, 01:56 AM
  #8  
Moderator
 
Skirmich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Baja, México.
Age: 35
Posts: 6,509
Received 1,016 Likes on 867 Posts
Originally Posted by marcelft
Ok, what bolts are you talking about that goes into the rack? Are these the ones which hold the line onto the rack with brackets??

Both the High Pressure and Return Line are Bolted by Flare Nuts into the Rack! the High Pressure Line Itself is bolted into the chasis by a Bracket with 1 Single 10mm Bolt just After the Rack its pretty noticeable and I believe just 2 Plastic Hinges along the Way behind the Rear Engine Mount.

Anyway Unbolting The Flare Nut is the Problem here, I learned that the Hard Way!

THIS WILL MAKE YOUR LIFE EASIER! (The Size is Wrong, Just to Show you the Tool):

Ill check my Tool Box tomorrow to get you the exact Size of the Flare Nut Wrench..
Just to be Clear even with the Tool I could not Get the Flare Nut out... Wise-Grips + Hammer did the Trick...

Last edited by Skirmich; 11-04-2012 at 01:06 AM.
The following users liked this post:
marcelft (11-04-2012)
Old 11-04-2012, 08:28 AM
  #9  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
marcelft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 71
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Ok, maybe I am confusing you. The hose I am replacing is the hose which goes from the power steering pump to the rack, there are no flare fittings, just two bolts on each end. This is the hose I am talking about:
Name:  acura_tl_1999_power_steering_hose_oem_53713_s0k_a04_53713s0ka04.jpg
Views: 22887
Size:  23.4 KB
Old 11-04-2012, 01:31 PM
  #10  
Moderator
 
Skirmich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Baja, México.
Age: 35
Posts: 6,509
Received 1,016 Likes on 867 Posts
Thats not the High Pressure line for our Car, Just some Random Ebay Line post it to look like... TRUST THE ONE WHO HAS CHANGED IT

Youll need to get something like this:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/01-02-03-Acur...-/330782699876
(Scroll down to see Pics)



And just look at the Manual:


Both the TL-S and TL-P uses Flare Nuts to secure the line into the Rack.

OHHH AND BTW YOU WILL NEED A 14mm FLARE NUT WRENCH (I THINK THEY COME IN 13/14mm Sizes)
Old 11-04-2012, 01:59 PM
  #11  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
marcelft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 71
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Crap, here is an example where the year matters. I have a 99, that hose if for 01,02,03. Here is the schematic I got hose from Acuraparts:
Name:  13s0k01_b3360.png
Views: 34801
Size:  276.6 KB

Which will make my job easier than yours, but still how did you weasel the hose out of there is what I am wondering. Guess I will go and see...time is running out.
Old 11-04-2012, 02:17 PM
  #12  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
marcelft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 71
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Actually, you have a TL, which uses a different steering gear box and different hose.
Old 11-04-2012, 02:45 PM
  #13  
Moderator
 
Skirmich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Baja, México.
Age: 35
Posts: 6,509
Received 1,016 Likes on 867 Posts
Ahhh that is the issue then! BTW The High Pressure line its the same for 00, 01, 02, 03 its the 1999 TL the bizarre Guy from the 2G Family!

Then it will be alot Easier to Remove! I bet its just 2x 10mm Bolts holding into the Rack!

My bad for the Confusion there I never think of the 99 which has alot of differences between the other years in the 2G.
Old 11-04-2012, 04:16 PM
  #14  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
marcelft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 71
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Originally Posted by Skirmich
Ahhh that is the issue then! BTW The High Pressure line its the same for 00, 01, 02, 03 its the 1999 TL the bizarre Guy from the 2G Family!

Then it will be alot Easier to Remove! I bet its just 2x 10mm Bolts holding into the Rack!

My bad for the Confusion there I never think of the 99 which has alot of differences between the other years in the 2G.
Yea, I should have put that in my post my car was a 99. I just got hose out, holy crap it was hard, yes it is only on by 2 bolts, but it hooks around a lot more and was really hard to manuver, I had to bend it alot. Im praying now its not so bad to get in...but it always is.
Old 11-04-2012, 07:04 PM
  #15  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
marcelft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 71
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Ok, got it done. I tried to take catalytic converter off, would have made job way easier as tubing could drop straight down, but bolt stripped. After a lot of yanking and pulling got it in. Never want to do that job again.
Old 11-05-2012, 03:31 PM
  #16  
Drifting
 
acutee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,153
Received 57 Likes on 49 Posts
It's hard to maneuver because you are being careful. if the mechanic did it, he would bend it and squeeze it in. if the hose fails shortly after, it wont be his problem. Certain works require experiment to be efficient, and certain works require careless to be fast.
Old 10-14-2014, 02:34 PM
  #17  
6th Gear
 
StringsEagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
92 integra

Hey guys I am trying to do the same thing on a 92 tegra, I am self learning how to repair my own car and have only been doing so for about a year. So i am very green here.

I was trying to follow along but there are differences obviously because of the year/model.. its a 1.8L GS hatchback B18A

So yea, in the diagrams the pressure hose is slightly different than what I have. If anyone knows 92's... please help me out!
Old 10-14-2014, 02:42 PM
  #18  
Moderator
 
Skirmich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Baja, México.
Age: 35
Posts: 6,509
Received 1,016 Likes on 867 Posts
Mmm funny to see there isn't an Integra Forum here.
Your 92 GS is not much harder to work on, Our same steps can be followed to replace your line.
Old 10-14-2014, 03:13 PM
  #19  
6th Gear
 
StringsEagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yea I was shocked to not find much on integra's here myself.it was the pioneer of the acura craze... oh well.
Old 10-14-2014, 03:16 PM
  #20  
6th Gear
 
StringsEagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Again, I am very new to all of this so maybe you can help me out starting from under the car... under the hood i am ok with.. but under the car is a foreign wasteland to me. To give you an idea.. I just bought my first hydraulic jack and jack stand set about a month ago.
Old 10-14-2014, 03:57 PM
  #21  
Moderator
 
Skirmich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Baja, México.
Age: 35
Posts: 6,509
Received 1,016 Likes on 867 Posts
^ OK
First of all. Locate your P/S Pump.
Then follow the High Pressure line (You can pin point it because it has a metal bracket with bolts attached to the pump since it handle high pressure) the Return Line from the P/S Reservoir is called "Low Pressure Return" because it basically works from a vacuum crated by the P/S Pump.


Once you located the High Pressure Line you must follow it to the steering rack. Space must be tight since Honda 4 Cyl places the engine in front of the rack Vs V6 Hondas which places the Engine behind the Passenger Firewall which makes it easier to work on the rack from the engine bay.


Everything must be straight forward after that.
Old 10-14-2014, 04:11 PM
  #22  
6th Gear
 
StringsEagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
ok so the only bolts i should be dealing with are on the ps pump itself... and jus the nut on the other end of the metal hose... now the fun part.. getting to it.... thanks for the help.
Old 10-14-2014, 06:04 PM
  #23  
6th Gear
 
StringsEagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have the top and the bottom connections done and a bracket towards the bottom.. i am stuck on an electrical connection about midway.. it wont budge... any tips?
Old 12-16-2014, 08:25 AM
  #24  
Banned
 
mattcl-s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: st paul
Posts: 423
Received 36 Likes on 35 Posts
how long did it take you to get done?
Old 09-12-2015, 09:35 AM
  #25  
Cruisin'
 
bagman52's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Age: 55
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Trying to replace my power steering hose on my 99 TL. Not finding any other thread than this one and no DIY.

What is the best way to remove the hose from the to or the bottom?

I have the car on ramps now with decent access underneath but can not see an easy way for it to come out, coming from the top does not look much better. There also appears to a sensor connected to the hose just down stream from the pump.

I have the bolts off the rack and have unbolted the clamp from the frame. Hose still seem to be pretty stuck in place.

Appreciate any directions, hints or tips from those that have tackled this before.
Old 09-12-2015, 10:27 PM
  #26  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
marcelft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 71
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
It's been a while since I did mine, and I have a 99, supposedly different than newer years. But if I could have dropped the cataytic that would have made it easier. It was a lot of pulling and not being gentle to get it out.
Old 09-13-2015, 07:13 AM
  #27  
Cruisin'
 
bagman52's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Age: 55
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Got it done, sorta... Hose is in but I am struggling with getting the two lower clamps back on. These are the two that secure the hose to the frame. Any tips on getting these back on would be appreciated. I am thinking about using zip ties and rubber hose as an alternative to the clamps.
Old 09-13-2015, 09:54 AM
  #28  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
marcelft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 71
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
I wasnt able to get the hose in exactly as it was, and also used zip ties. I cant see really getting it in right without taking engine and steering rack out. Mines been going good for 3 years. Make sure you use honda compatible power steering fluid, made the mistake of standard fluid and it does not work.
Old 10-18-2015, 09:47 PM
  #29  
Cruisin'
 
spudweb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Question

Originally Posted by marcelft
I wasnt able to get the hose in exactly as it was, and also used zip ties. I cant see really getting it in right without taking engine and steering rack out. Mines been going good for 3 years. Make sure you use honda compatible power steering fluid, made the mistake of standard fluid and it does not work.
Did you replace the return line on the bottom of the engine or the pressure hose? I'm trying to replace the bottom one and can't figure out how to get the new one in. I had to bend the crap out of the old one to get it out. I'm wondering, since it isn't a high pressure line if I can use something else.
Old 10-21-2015, 07:31 AM
  #30  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
marcelft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 71
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Yes it was the high pressure hose I replaced.
Old 10-21-2015, 11:16 AM
  #31  
Pro
 
Chojun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 743
Received 94 Likes on 79 Posts
@Spudweb would it be possible to support the engine, unbolt it from the mounts, and raise it a couple inches, and then remove/replace the hose?
Old 10-23-2015, 08:28 AM
  #32  
Cruisin'
 
spudweb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Chojun
@Spudweb would it be possible to support the engine, unbolt it from the mounts, and raise it a couple inches, and then remove/replace the hose?
That seems like a lot of work, and I certainly don't have the tools to lift my engine.

I need to reseal the oil pan to fix a leak anyway, and if I take that off, I should be able to get the power steering pipe back on.

Thanks for the advice, though.
Old 10-23-2015, 11:09 AM
  #33  
Pro
 
Chojun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 743
Received 94 Likes on 79 Posts
To raise the engine you'd just need a block of 2x4 and a floor jack - support the engine from below with the 2x4 and floor jack on the oil pan, unbolt the mount and raise away. Should be able to get 1-2 inches without risking any damage to anything or needing to unhook anything.
Old 08-06-2017, 01:07 PM
  #34  
Burning Brakes
 
bbsitum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 813
Received 59 Likes on 50 Posts
Originally Posted by Skirmich
Both the High Pressure and Return Line are Bolted by Flare Nuts into the Rack! the High Pressure Line Itself is bolted into the chasis by a Bracket with 1 Single 10mm Bolt just After the Rack its pretty noticeable and I believe just 2 Plastic Hinges along the Way behind the Rear Engine Mount.

Anyway Unbolting The Flare Nut is the Problem here, I learned that the Hard Way!

THIS WILL MAKE YOUR LIFE EASIER! (The Size is Wrong, Just to Show you the Tool):

Ill check my Tool Box tomorrow to get you the exact Size of the Flare Nut Wrench..
Just to be Clear even with the Tool I could not Get the Flare Nut out... Wise-Grips + Hammer did the Trick...
How much I was capable to gatter from photos at partsgeek 2002 and 2003 S only have flare nut at rack end. All others have bolts at rack end. Yes I need to replace it therefore i browse and mine is 2003 S.
2002-2003 Acura TL Power Steering Pressure Line Hose Assembly - Gates 365526 - - PartsGeek.com

Actually that service manual that is at internet show 2 different pictures of power stering system. One for regular 99-03 and other for 02 and 03 S. It is at page 1000 or so.

Last edited by bbsitum; 08-06-2017 at 01:22 PM.
Old 08-08-2017, 06:45 PM
  #35  
Burning Brakes
 
bbsitum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 813
Received 59 Likes on 50 Posts
That flare nut for 02/03 at rack side of line is 15mm.
Old 08-08-2017, 07:02 PM
  #36  
Burning Brakes
 
bbsitum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 813
Received 59 Likes on 50 Posts
And here is video for DIY -
. I found it at youtube. Tried edit above post, it said only 15min. Ok but it is why I make new post.
Old 08-19-2017, 11:18 PM
  #37  
3rd Gear
 
MattW.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Age: 30
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi All,
This is my first post on Acurazine because it is my first time doing what I consider to be actual work on my car. I have a Acura TL 2000 and I am trying to replace the power steering pressure hose. I know next to nothing about cars but am already learning a lot. I got the hose off successfully but I am having a hard time getting the new one on. I am scared of bending it but can't figure out how to get it to fit. I saw someone mentioned taking off the catalytic converter (I assume this is the thing on the exhaust pipe that is right in the way), do you guys think I should do this? I have jack stands. All the videos I have found skip the part about putting the hose back on, probably because it takes such much messing around with to get it in. I don't know if anyone can help me with this but I figured I'd ask. Thanks.
Old 08-20-2017, 01:21 PM
  #38  
Burning Brakes
 
bbsitum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 813
Received 59 Likes on 50 Posts
Originally Posted by Skirmich
^ OK
First of all. Locate your P/S Pump.
Then follow the High Pressure line (You can pin point it because it has a metal bracket with bolts attached to the pump since it handle high pressure) the Return Line from the P/S Reservoir is called "Low Pressure Return" because it basically works from a vacuum crated by the P/S Pump.


Once you located the High Pressure Line you must follow it to the steering rack. Space must be tight since Honda 4 Cyl places the engine in front of the rack Vs V6 Hondas which places the Engine behind the Passenger Firewall which makes it easier to work on the rack from the engine bay.


Everything must be straight forward after that.
Skimritch why ours pressure hose do not have rubber holders for difference of TL NOT S. Is it enough just unscrew that two 10 mm bolts at frame and lift "holder".
Old 08-20-2017, 01:29 PM
  #39  
Burning Brakes
 
bbsitum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 813
Received 59 Likes on 50 Posts
Originally Posted by Skirmich
Both the High Pressure and Return Line are Bolted by Flare Nuts into the Rack! the High Pressure Line Itself is bolted into the chasis by a Bracket with 1 Single 10mm Bolt just After the Rack its pretty noticeable and I believe just 2 Plastic Hinges along the Way behind the Rear Engine Mount.

Anyway Unbolting The Flare Nut is the Problem here, I learned that the Hard Way!

THIS WILL MAKE YOUR LIFE EASIER! (The Size is Wrong, Just to Show you the Tool):

Ill check my Tool Box tomorrow to get you the exact Size of the Flare Nut Wrench..
Just to be Clear even with the Tool I could not Get the Flare Nut out... Wise-Grips + Hammer did the Trick...
So unbolt and open one 10 mm at driver side and somehow just unhook where is another 10 mm at passanger side? Btw it is easy open flare nut with 14mm crow foot flare wrench. Just how is show in video that I post. I just unscrew and screw flare nut and 10 mm bolt at driver side for now. To hot to work. Will do next weekend.
Old 08-20-2017, 01:33 PM
  #40  
Burning Brakes
 
bbsitum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 813
Received 59 Likes on 50 Posts
Originally Posted by MattW.
Hi All,
This is my first post on Acurazine because it is my first time doing what I consider to be actual work on my car. I have a Acura TL 2000 and I am trying to replace the power steering pressure hose. I know next to nothing about cars but am already learning a lot. I got the hose off successfully but I am having a hard time getting the new one on. I am scared of bending it but can't figure out how to get it to fit. I saw someone mentioned taking off the catalytic converter (I assume this is the thing on the exhaust pipe that is right in the way), do you guys think I should do this? I have jack stands. All the videos I have found skip the part about putting the hose back on, probably because it takes such much messing around with to get it in. I don't know if anyone can help me with this but I figured I'd ask. Thanks.
You will never take of cat without cutting it. I guess should be bend. Edit bend line not cat.

Last edited by bbsitum; 08-20-2017 at 01:44 PM.


Quick Reply: Power Steering Pressure Hose Replacement Tips?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:42 PM.