WaarrEagle

Yet another failing transmission thread, but I want someadvice to see if my issue could be related solely to the torque converter(relatively cheap part) compared to the whole transmission. My 2000 Acura TL has 140k miles. The transmission completely failed around100k but outside the Acura warranty so I had it rebuilt at Aamco (before understanding the widespread nature of the problem in these cars). The torque converter was NOT replaced at that time. Almost immediately after the repair it started having a very slight occasional shudder which has steadily gotten worse over time. It now shudders whenever it is hot and quite frequently but I think the issue may be isolated to the torque converter:

• The transmission shifts are fine and the shudder only happens in 3rd or higher
• I have not received any CEL codes
• The shudder stops if I let off the gas or force a gear change
• At highway speed the RPM’s bounce around by approx. 200 RPM with only minor throttle inputs. It looks like the torque converter is not staying locked.

Does anyone have experience with replacing just the torque converter and solving transmission problems? Should I start with the solenoid instead of dropping the transmission? Any other suggestions?

MarcDavidoff

Well.. Idk but you would think even Aamco would know the torque converter should have been changed with the trans rebuild. Shame you didn't bring it back while still under warranty. My TL does the same shudder in D5 although it doesn't do it above 55-60mph. The torque converter clutch is not staying locked and it sounds like yours could be in more advanced state. Mine is usually fine in D4 so I leave it in D4 when not on the highway. lol I to the AV6 swap...

01acls

OP, find a shop that does 100 percent ATF change via the "Vacuum Exchange" method (preferred) or do a 3x3 using Honda DW1. Do not confuse this with a trans pressure flush.

You might want to try changing the following.

1. Torque converter clutch control solenoid valve and gasket.
2. Shift solenoid C.
3. Mainshaft speed sensor.

WaarrEagle

Which parts numbers correspond to the TCC solenoid? I found info on the 99 model but I know 2000+ are different. Probably a good cheap option to start with before I start pulling things apart.

01acls

#34 (upper left hand corner-"SERVICE PARTS") which is actually #7 and #10.

#15

Honestly I would try #34 first and then #15 if necessary.

WaarrEagle

Thanks! Looks like i can get #7 and #10 for about $100 on ebay. Do you know if the tranny oil has to be drained to pull off #7? I may pull it off before ordering a replacement to see if the inside is gunked up.

01acls

No need to drain fluilds.

01tl4tl

most likely old trans failed due to clutch pack wear out- which loads up the torque convertor with particulate matter. That crud gets flung out onto the filter screens - reducing or blocking enough pressure to operate the trans!

If the external parts suggested above don't fix it- that includes a new external filter too-that will catch loose material. Might try some seafoam for trans and a full fluid change with another new filter

Last option- remove trans for torque convertor replacement only
Ck warranty- can you still raise a stink with AAM? definitely falls under defective workmanship to EVER do a rebuild on one of these and not know its TC is going to be clogged! You can see the worn clutch disc/plate when trans is dismantled

Follow the process for elimination 01acls posted, not buying the 2nd set of possible parts before knowing what the first are doing~
He seems to know most of his stuff regarding these cars.

WaarrEagle

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I just ordered 12 quarts of DW-1 off e-bay for $89 shipped (link http://www.ebay.com/itm/131573952484).

I'll do the 3x3 and if no improvement I'll replace parts #7 and #10. Stay tuned!

ErickUa5

Just put it on D4 and live with it, Thats what I've been doing to avoid the shudder.
Of course a drain and fill will help but only for a short period of time, I just did one today.

MarcDavidoff

Funny, just did a a 3qt drain and fill yesterday. Fluid coming out looked good and not much on the magnet after 10k miles so I guess she's hanging in there for now

fsttyms1

Have you taken the solenoids out and tried to clean them or replace them?

MarcDavidoff

Actually replaced them about 20k miles ago

ErickUa5

Same here, I noticed tiny particles of metal in the drained fluid, driving it hard at times. At least I know all that is not going into the filter.

WaarrEagle

Update in case anyone is interested. I did a 3x3 transmission flush with Honda ATF and also removed both solenoids for inspection. Both solenoids looked good and the fluid did not look particularly bad during the process but something (i'm guessing the flush) made my issue 90% go away. The car was getting borderline undriveable before and now only occasionally stutters. Perhaps AAMCO put generic fluid in when they rebuilt my tranny and replacing with DW1 made the difference. Regardless I am just going to drive it as-is for now before attempting any more troubleshooting.

MarcDavidoff

Good to know the fluid change helped. You are likely correct in that Aamco may not have used Honda fluid. The solenoids don't necessary show you anything by how they look but it is more so how they electrically deteriorate over time. I would definitely do the D4 thing when driving locally under 55mph. Every time you are shuddering in D5 the torque converter is getting an earlier death sentence.

Chojun

I've heard many anecdotes that the honda transmissions will not cooperate without the correct fluid - if a fluid change fixed your problem then it likely did not have the correct type (or amount) of fluid.