How to change rotors and break pads - AcuraZine Community

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Old 06-17-2003, 3:29 PM   #1
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How to change rotors and break pads

Has anyone changed TL rotors and break pads by them self? or
Does anyone have instructions?
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Old 06-17-2003, 3:58 PM   #2
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IF you have to ask this question then I would STRONGLY suggest you not attempt to do this yourself.
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Old 06-17-2003, 6:10 PM   #3
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I did it, and it's fairly simple.

At one point I'll write up a detailed guide, but don't feel like taking the wheels off now to take pics.

1. The first thing you have to do is take off the calipers, which are held by 4 bolts in the rear. Take first 2 bolts that are on the outside of the caliper (the caliper piece with the break-line attached to it; this piece is attached to the other caliper which is attached to the wheel). Hang that caliper or position it so break hose won't come off. It's heavy so position it well. (very important that it doesn't come off).

2. Take off the break pads and the metal pieces(remember how they went)

3. Remove the other caliper piece (another 2 bolts)

4. The rotor is held by two screws (you'll see them since they're facing you), you'll need something strong to take 'em off. An aircompressor or an impact screwdriver will do the job.

You're done.

The most important thing is that the break hose must not come off the caliper or else you'll have to go through a long process of bleeding and refilling the breaks (I never done it so I won't be able to help you with that)
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Old 06-18-2003, 9:08 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2002acuraTL
IF you have to ask this question then I would STRONGLY suggest you not attempt to do this yourself.


If you don't know how to do it either have someone with experience do it with you or pay someplace to do it. It's too risky of a thing to play around with. After all if you accidentally mess up or forget something you won't be able to stop putting your life and others in harms way.
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Old 06-18-2003, 12:15 PM   #5
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Those little screws holding the rotors on are a huge pain. THIS THREAD has some good suggestions on getting them off. I wish I would have found that thread before I did mine.

Other than that, it's a very simple job. If you aren't comfortable doing it, have a pro do it.. but it's actually very easy.
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Old 06-18-2003, 2:05 PM   #6
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It is extremely easy EXCEPT for those 2 screws that hold the rotor on. I had to break out the dremel to cut those out...
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Old 06-18-2003, 2:14 PM   #7
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If you live near and AutoZone parts store, they will rent you the impact screwdriver that is real helpful for getting the screw loose. The rental is free so long as you bring the tool back.
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Old 06-18-2003, 3:39 PM   #8
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when you change brake pads, it's necessary to bleed the brake lines... You'll find a plastic cap on the caliper, take it off and there's a little screw. What you do is have the key in the car to "II" position, but don't start the engine. step on the brake pedal a few times, then hold it. Open the screw on the caliper so the brake fluid comes out, then as soon as the fluid stops coming out, you tighten up the screw and now you can release the brake pedal. Do this about 3, 4 times each wheel. You also need to do it in this order. Passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, passenger front. Also you need to add brake fluid during the process, check it twice when you do one wheel. I should've taken some pictures when I did mine last week o well.

Also the reason is when you change the brake pads, it's hard to take'em out without pushing the clamp away, which means you have to open up the valve to release the brake fluid anyway, so air goes in. Then at the same time, you might as well put in new brake fluid and bleed the lines.
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Old 06-18-2003, 9:48 PM   #9
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Hmm, I never heard of bleeding the breaks when chaning pads, I've been changing pads on all my cars myself and never done this. (haven't changed the pads on the TL-S yet)

The only time I'd bleed the breaks is when changing the fluid (as needed according to the manual). Are doing this only so that you can move the piston back?

Usually I use a screwdriver and place it so it leans on the caliper so I could apply pressure to it so the piston to push it in so I could have room to put the caliper back onto the new pads.
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Old 06-19-2003, 10:21 AM   #10
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You can retract the piston in about 10 seconds with a large "C" clamp you can buy at any hardware strore. Use about a 6 in" clamp so you have enough length to get behind the back of the caliper. then just use a small piece of wood across the face of the piston, and start to close the clamp. as it squeezes against the backside of the caliper, it presses the piston back in. You dont need to bleed the fluid to do this.

Only one point to remember, if you had been topping of your fluid reservior as your brakes were wearing down (or Expressway Lube or Jiffy Lube was doing it when you were getting an oil change) you will end up with too much fluid in the reservior when you press in all four calipers. (or two if you are only changing the front brakes). The easy fix for this is to open the reservior are wick out some of the fluid with a CLEAN rag, paper towel etc, before you start compressing the calipers. You wont need to remove very much.
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Old 06-19-2003, 11:37 AM   #11
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Anyone know the exact phillips head # for the two rotor screws so I don't chew by slipping?
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Old 06-19-2003, 12:53 PM   #12
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Its probably a #3 phillips. But unless your car is new, i wouldnt try to get the screw out with a screwdriver. use either an impact style driver (the one that you hit at the back end with a hammer) or the screwdriver tip that comes on a socket. You can buy them as a small set of i think Sears sells them individually. Its worth paying a few bucks to get the screw to come off cleanly than to spend hours trying to get it off after buggering up the head. Remember when you put it back on to put a little grease or WD40 on the back of the screw head to help keep it from siezing back on before the next removal.
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Old 06-19-2003, 12:53 PM
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