DIY: ThermoBlok Spacers install / EGR cleaning
05-13-2008, 09:26 PM
#81
Just run the lines normal all the time- if you are not track racing and looking for every degree of temp reduction/control--its safer to leave things alone IMO
Install the spacer- clean the EGR ports and intake runners really well-
maybe time for spark plugs- probably want to seafoam after seeing what lives in the engine---then you're set
The Outlaw spacer includes a TB to intake manifold- heat spacer, to eliminate that heat from the coolant lines too
Test data shows good reduction of manifold air temp- approx 12 degree F rise over ambient= a few? hp. Without spacer it was over 20-25 degree rise
Install the spacer- clean the EGR ports and intake runners really well-
maybe time for spark plugs- probably want to seafoam after seeing what lives in the engine---then you're set
The Outlaw spacer includes a TB to intake manifold- heat spacer, to eliminate that heat from the coolant lines too
Test data shows good reduction of manifold air temp- approx 12 degree F rise over ambient= a few? hp. Without spacer it was over 20-25 degree rise
05-14-2008, 05:52 PM
#83
people who have done the coolant bypass are switching it back to normal now.
There is no major advantage since you are running an insulator spacer for the TB that comes with the Outlaw kit- or the p2r tb spacer
that keeps the TB metal and the intake manifold seperate, so heat transfer is nulled
Seafoam is the same exact stuff they use in the injector fuel cleaner machines that charge 150 bucks to do at dealer or other shops- even has directions on the can for use in those machines
We DIY and do it way better for 20 bucks of stuff- some in the main vac port-at intake manifold- to clean everything between the TB and the pistons, and in the gas for the injector system, and the oil before a change to clean the passeways
See the DIY for each gen on seafoam
There is no major advantage since you are running an insulator spacer for the TB that comes with the Outlaw kit- or the p2r tb spacer
that keeps the TB metal and the intake manifold seperate, so heat transfer is nulled
Seafoam is the same exact stuff they use in the injector fuel cleaner machines that charge 150 bucks to do at dealer or other shops- even has directions on the can for use in those machines
We DIY and do it way better for 20 bucks of stuff- some in the main vac port-at intake manifold- to clean everything between the TB and the pistons, and in the gas for the injector system, and the oil before a change to clean the passeways
See the DIY for each gen on seafoam
05-17-2008, 01:34 PM
#85
parts stores everywhere carry it- white can in the fuel cleaner area of the shelf
6-7 dollars for 16 oz can
6-7 dollars for 16 oz can
06-19-2008, 12:10 PM
#87
Questions please:
On the Service Bulletin http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B00-004.PDF
we need the part: EGR Pipe Kit: P/N 06175-P8E-A00
What are the kit included?
After looking at the instructions on the Service Bulletin, the step #3 saying to replace the Throttle Body gasket. Where do you go to buy that gasket?
Any tips/trick that can you be aware of to have it done correctly? I don't have a back up car, so I have to get it done right the first time.
Thanks.
This is a great thread ever.
On the Service Bulletin http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B00-004.PDF
we need the part: EGR Pipe Kit: P/N 06175-P8E-A00
What are the kit included?
After looking at the instructions on the Service Bulletin, the step #3 saying to replace the Throttle Body gasket. Where do you go to buy that gasket?
Any tips/trick that can you be aware of to have it done correctly? I don't have a back up car, so I have to get it done right the first time.
Thanks.
This is a great thread ever.
06-19-2008, 02:02 PM
#88
You can get the gasket from your local dealer or you can get it for cheaper from an online dealer such as acuraautomotiveparts.org. You don't necessarily have to get the Pipe kit, you just need to clean out the port. The pipe kit was made to help prevent the EGR port from getting clogged as often.
06-20-2008, 01:16 AM
#89
Instructor
All right guys well here goes another f*ck up. I took everything apart exactly how this DIY and outlaw's instructions state. Cleaned EGR super good with 4 cans of carb and throttle body cleaner. Put everything back together correctly. I go for a test drive and right when I start up my car my TSC and transmission check lights are on. I continue driving to see whats going on. The car is VERY rough when I take my foot of the gas. Almost like it isnt getting air? I don't know. It is very shakey to...doesnt sound smooth one bit. The transmission acts up and is almost like it doesnt know when to shift AND when it does shift it is very jerky. Now I just had this transmission replaced by the Acura dealership and it came with a 5 year 50,000 mile warranty(I had to pay for it but oh well). It doesnt make me think it is the transmission though because it was perfectly fine before I put the spacers on. Do you think I need to adjust the throttle cable? Could that be why it sounds so rough and shakey? Please let me know what this could be! Thanks guys
06-20-2008, 01:23 AM
#90
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i'd trouble shoot it. Check the vaccum lines and the connection on the TB. You may have to take it apart to figure out the problem. DId you touch the little VSA TB when doing this?
06-20-2008, 02:51 AM
#92
when you cleaned the manifold- did you rinse it out in a way that flushed out all the crud back out thru the ~mouth~ of it- where the TB attaches?
All the intake runners were clean and the main area plus the egr ports when you were done?
Recheck each vac line attachment- none off?, or have a bolt stuck in them,
not a radiator line hooked up to the vac port? thats happened
You may have disturbed crud in the IAC under the TB assembly- usaully good idea to clean that while its all apart
acura is going 5/50 on partial pay trans now? how much did you pay them??
All the intake runners were clean and the main area plus the egr ports when you were done?
Recheck each vac line attachment- none off?, or have a bolt stuck in them,
not a radiator line hooked up to the vac port? thats happened
You may have disturbed crud in the IAC under the TB assembly- usaully good idea to clean that while its all apart
acura is going 5/50 on partial pay trans now? how much did you pay them??
06-20-2008, 05:33 PM
#95
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Originally Posted by Forevafire
You don't even want to know man. It cost me 4850 to get a new trans installed including labor.
06-20-2008, 09:40 PM
#96
no threadjacking the DIY please- its gotten 3 pages long for 1 page of instructions!
06-20-2008, 09:53 PM
#97
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I was planning on cleaning my EGR port on saturday and maybe doing the spacer install in a couple of weeks. Would I need to get new gaskets or should I be able to reuse the old ones until I install the spacers?
06-20-2008, 11:30 PM
#99
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Originally Posted by ABClaypool
OK I should have read better. I see that only the TB gasket needs replaced if you take it off. Is there an easy way to do this without taking the TB off of the intake manifold?
06-21-2008, 03:31 AM
#101
In order to completely clean the manifold and the egr ports- you wash it in the solvent tank or use carb spray and then a garden hose with lots of water....not the best place for the TB to be~
While its apart you turn the TB upside down and clean the IAC valve
You also need to clean the inner plate of the TB- if rotates on a shaft to allow air in.
recycled air and oil from the engine gets stuck on the plate- clean it too
While its apart you turn the TB upside down and clean the IAC valve
You also need to clean the inner plate of the TB- if rotates on a shaft to allow air in.
recycled air and oil from the engine gets stuck on the plate- clean it too
06-23-2008, 07:52 AM
#104
Question:
on the bulletin
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B00-004.PDF
Step 8 saying using the special drill bit from the tool kit to drill it bigger, wonder what size is that drill bit? anyone in here drill it bigger or just use the 8mm to clean it out?
Thanks.
on the bulletin
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B00-004.PDF
Step 8 saying using the special drill bit from the tool kit to drill it bigger, wonder what size is that drill bit? anyone in here drill it bigger or just use the 8mm to clean it out?
Thanks.
06-23-2008, 04:51 PM
#105
thats only the year 99 cars. Later years have more egr ports to clean as seen in the diy pics- no drilling needed
the drilling with 8mm bit was to fit a smooth tube in the port- didnt really help solve the problem.
the drilling with 8mm bit was to fit a smooth tube in the port- didnt really help solve the problem.
06-23-2008, 04:57 PM
#106
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
thats only the year 99 cars. Later years have more egr ports to clean as seen in the diy pics- no drilling needed
the drilling with 8mm bit was to fit a smooth tube in the port- didnt really help solve the problem.
the drilling with 8mm bit was to fit a smooth tube in the port- didnt really help solve the problem.
It supposedly got rid of the problem, but it's just a little longer that you can go without cleaning it.
06-24-2008, 08:31 AM
#108
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
thats only the year 99 cars. Later years have more egr ports to clean as seen in the diy pics- no drilling needed
the drilling with 8mm bit was to fit a smooth tube in the port- didnt really help solve the problem.
the drilling with 8mm bit was to fit a smooth tube in the port- didnt really help solve the problem.
Worst case, I can just clean it out without drilling and clean it out again when it happens in future.
06-24-2008, 09:07 AM
#109
Originally Posted by achen0122
help! i followed the directions step by step and put everything back together but now the car won't start! any ideas?
06-24-2008, 09:20 AM
#110
I finaly cleaned the EGR port and reset the ECU and its not throwing the CEL or TCS code anymore. I can feel way more power coming out of the engine and smoother shifting for some reason. Also gas consumption is way lower than before. 320km on a little more then half a tank where as before I was getting 450km per full tank tops. hoping to see 550km before the gas light comes on.
06-24-2008, 10:12 AM
#112
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for some reason the battery died.. i had smoke coming out of the exhaust as well and am getting tcs and check engine lights. i took it to the shop theyre looking at it now
06-24-2008, 11:14 AM
#113
Mark the connectors for everything- wires and hoses before you take it apart.
Take a pic of that for referance, A to A or 1-1, 2-2 whatever works for you so there is an organized pattern- start numbering at this corner and go counter clockwise- as an example.
There will be parts on the manifold you cant leave tape on during cleaning- so picture or hand drawn map of assembly will help,
Its easy to get a gasket installed wrong- or forget to change the required studs to longer ones, or switch the electrical connectors....or miss one of them
Rinsing out the manifold after cleaning the egr ports and the intake runners is very important- and it must be dry- no water or residue- or you will blow smoke~
Take a pic of that for referance, A to A or 1-1, 2-2 whatever works for you so there is an organized pattern- start numbering at this corner and go counter clockwise- as an example.
There will be parts on the manifold you cant leave tape on during cleaning- so picture or hand drawn map of assembly will help,
Its easy to get a gasket installed wrong- or forget to change the required studs to longer ones, or switch the electrical connectors....or miss one of them
Rinsing out the manifold after cleaning the egr ports and the intake runners is very important- and it must be dry- no water or residue- or you will blow smoke~
06-24-2008, 01:42 PM
#114
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i'm positive I have all the wiring and the hoses back on correctly. Will the TCS and check engine light clear itself after a few days of driving? My ABS light is also on now too. Will seafoam help?
06-24-2008, 05:59 PM
#115
something is not hooked up right! go back and check things one more time
Have the codes checked at autozone for free
Reset the ECU by pulling the CLOCK fuse in passenger footwell, after you get the codes read
What did the shop have to say?
Have the codes checked at autozone for free
Reset the ECU by pulling the CLOCK fuse in passenger footwell, after you get the codes read
What did the shop have to say?
06-24-2008, 08:09 PM
#117
MIGHT be? what did the code say bad O2 sensor? guesses are not accepted here- except by us!
how was the car running before you worked on it? everythign was perfect or ran funny
More likely something not back together correctly, or some crud got on the O2 sensor and does need some seafoam to clean it off now !~
You can test the electrical measure on the O2 sensors for actual function
search for test and specs
how was the car running before you worked on it? everythign was perfect or ran funny
More likely something not back together correctly, or some crud got on the O2 sensor and does need some seafoam to clean it off now !~
You can test the electrical measure on the O2 sensors for actual function
search for test and specs
06-24-2008, 09:04 PM
#119
where are we at now- the car starts or not?