03c0upe

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...DSCF0002-1.jpg

The connector circled on the top of the screen, what is that for? i took the plug out but left the piece on the manifold. I got it wet with water and throttle body cleaner :S im putting everything back together tom

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

intake air temp sensor, make sure to completely dry it inside then just reconnect it, you will proably be just fine with it

below is optional:
also spraying some electronic parts cleaner in the plug, to be on the safe side, to help prevent corrosion from ever happening
also a little die-electric grease would not hurt ethier

03c0upe

Are we suppose to clean the egr port in this pic as well? willl the crud fall into the engine?

03c0upe

can anyone help, when i start my car it revs high around 2200 rpm after 5 seconds and revs up and down. i checked and everything is connected and i dont see how i can plug hoses in the wrong spot hose is to short or is a different size. My air intake sensor did get wet with water but i let it dry over night.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

could be that a piece of loosened dirt/crud got stuck in the idle valve,

but the biggest thing is did you remove the idle adjustment screw when cleaning the tb




also the intake air temp should be fine, by just letting it air dry over night

03c0upe

if theres crud in idle valve how do i clean it

where is the idle adjustment screw

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

the idle control valve is on the bottom of the tb, and idle adjustment screw is a 3/8" or so screw with a slot in it for a flat head screw driver, also on the tb (should be pointing towards the driverside)

but by the sounds of it, you never "actually touched" the tb,

but first question was the battery ever disconnected during the cleaning process, if not might be worth it, to force the computer to relearn the idle quicker (the cleaning of the egr can change the a/f mixture and such)
if it was disconnected, i think the idle screw might be misadjusted, should be adjusted so the idle valve averages about 50% duty cycle or so

but ethier way it sounds like the computer just needs to relearn the idle speed

03c0upe

is the idle screw covered by a grey rubber cover? i have a 1999 tl and its on the top of the tb. and no i didnt remove it or adjust it while i cleaned the TB. let me quickly pull the d/c the battery

03c0upe

no luck i d/c the battery for at least 30 secs

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

proably is covered by the gray cover, not something that really needs to be touched very often, if ever


but yeah disconnecting your battery first is your best bet to start with

01tl4tl

did you take the manifold off complete with the TB attached?
then turned it upside down and all around getting the water out of it?
Followed the DIY here?

May have stirred up stuff and the Idle Air Control underneath- the bottem side of the TB itself
You need to remove the TB from the manifold in order to clean and drain the manifold
Otherwise you are trapping crud inside--and getting cleaner and water in the TB throat
the mouth of the manifold is the attachment of the TB, and you should run water thru it to rinse out the crud and carb cleaner residue- do a few times to get it all from the hidden spots
Then turn and shake with mouth down to drain

If thats your problem:
remove TB from manifold or remove manifold and start over doing it rigth-
turn TB over and remove 2 screw from round cover plate- remove rubber disc and clean everything you can see
reassemble and torque to spec
should fix you right up!!

Have seen that somehow a vac line gets crossed with a coolant line and the engine has real problems running
recheck everything against the DIY pics- which are of a 99

Do NOT get into any adjustments of anything- fix whats wrong and causing the problem

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

yeah he wanted to pm me, so i did that a while, and tomorrow he is suppose to be taking off the manifold (with the tb attached, cause never removed in the first place from the manifold) and pulling the iac valve off and cleaning it directly


but yeah guessing that the iac valve may still have stuff inside of it causing it to stick still

dave586270

iTrader: (3)

Alright so back to this port cleaning. I just threw a P1399 code today. Car shakes and stutters like crazy! Just did plugs and wires about a year ago. First thought was coils, but I totaly forgot about the EGR valve. Been hearing all about it since i've been a member here but never done anything about it. Is the port the only part you have to clean? I'm assuming the valve itself is a part you can't just spray cleaner into? Can't even drive car until i get this issue resolved. Thanks.

01tl4tl

f you have over 70k miles or so it may be egr port cleaning time
The valve is not touched
See the first pages of this diy for pics- 00 and later has 6 ports in the manifold to clean, not the 1 on a 99 shown

Just ram a wire hanger thru, use a toothbrush or similar and spray them clean all the way thru,
rinse and DRY is critical as well as multiple flushings thru the manifold mouth

I dont understand how you can do it right without removing every part from the manifold, all sensors and plates- you can remove the outer plenums for a first class job of cleaning

Will help to seafoam your oil as well as gas and intake manifold- everything will be cruded up of egr was plugged

03c0upe

i did clean everything properly removed all the side plates as well. ill check the vac lines but i still dont see which vac lines would get mixed up. im gonna have to clean the iac. gonna get back to this later this afternoon

dave586270

iTrader: (3)

So you can't clean the valve itself? To clean the EGR properly you have to just take the manifold apart and clean the ports correct?

03c0upe

alright last night i started the car up it was fine for 2min then it started to rev hi low.
I started it up now, gave a couple wot's its running fine. No problems with the revs or anything.Im thinking crud was stuck in the engine and now got cleared out with WOT.
Only thing left is to fix a broken bolt :S. probably do that this week. anyone know the part # and how to fix this? do i just unscrew the bolt?

and thx to friesm2000 and 01tl4tl for their help

01tl4tl

is it a bolt in the manifold?- that will cause a vac leak and idle revving
There are 2 electrical connectors that can get swapped as well- recheck everything

01tl4tl

and the upper gasket is on right side up? thats a common problem

dave: you have to clean all the way thru the length of the manifold egr passage as well as each port opening- you can pull the valve off and clean the opening there too but the real fix is inside

the PCV system blows crud from the oil/combustion system into the TB inlet hose and back into the engine. EGR blows actual exhaust gas into the manifold for reburning--stupid emissions stuff
The process- especially with the new gasoline- leaves a lot of residue behind
The egr valve is open at all rpm except idle and full throttle-

03c0upe

bolt #9 is broken as in the pic on page 1. everything is running fine, lets see if i get a cel.

dave586270

iTrader: (3)

Ok thats what I though. Now the port wasn't even that bad. Little carb build-up but nothin i could just wipe away. I actually replaced the egr thinking that would solve it and i'm having the same problem.

01tl4tl

you cleaned with a wire rod- all the way from where the egr valve is thru the manifold and out the port?
the entire length must be clear or exhaust gas pressure backs up in the system

dave586270

iTrader: (3)

No, I wasn't that thorough. Removed EGR and cleand part of port i could see from there. It wasn't even that dirty. No serious blockage. Nothing that should be causing this. Especially to just start happening all of a sudden. Not a slow developing problem. Just bam missfire and bad idle, with rough driving.

dave586270

iTrader: (3)

Alright sry to thread jack. 01tlrtl you can refer to my new thread for all the info:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-problems-fixes-70/missfire-all-cyl-sputter-rough-idle-761172/
Thanks, sry again for jacking.

webmastir

ok i finally am going to buck up & do this. i just ordered my TB gaskets. first off, why are there 2 (autozone & advanced auto parts said there were 2 necessary) ? i didn't know there was a stock small spacer. anyway, ordered 2 -- will be in tomorrow. im going to clean my ports out tonight though.

couple quick questions i want to ask really quick (and yes i'll read over this entire thread before cleaning)

it this type of carb cleaner OK to use -- bought 3 cans of it:


also, these 8 bolts on this top plate are the ones that are so fragile when torquing them back on, right?

01tl4tl

no thats an engine decorative cover
Look at the DIY for pics of the actual bolts under that panel- that one comes right off
You will know when you are looking at real engine parts

carb cleaner is carb cleaner- you are fine with that

remember to flip the TB over and clean the IAC under the round cover

01tl4tl

added to your thread dave

BlkJ32

the oil thats on top of the intake manifold .....is that normal?.....sum1 told me i need to change the pcv so that wont happen...

webmastir

doh - i was wondering why the hell mine looked nothing like any of the pics in these EGR port threads. thanks. ya, will clean the IAC, thx man

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

inside of it

if so, a little is pretty normal, but if puddleing or something that is really bad then

but normally you can clean the pcv periodically to help avoid excessive pressures inside the motor, basically just take some of the carb spray and spray inside the valve, once clean you should hear it really rattle inside of it (keep cleaning till the rattle does not change anymore)

BlkJ32

Yea therz small puddles on top of the manifold....i rather just buy a new pcv....thanx u answered my question

01tl4tl

totally normal for some oil to be in the top, pics in DIY should show it too
Wipe it up and start to work!

Another way to help PCV is run seafoam in the oil and drive 100-200 miles (install new filter first to catch all the stuff that will get loosened in that time) then change oil&filter while engine warm
That will pump some cleaner thru the PCV and clean the rings and lower end oiler parts, plus the VTEC operating parts if you do some 5000 rpm blast
Sludge is everywhere

PCV valve: shoot carb cleaner thru it -shake as said above to test

Be certain the egr path thru the manifold is clear as you can get it

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

why does everyone swear by that , my car has 109k and oilpan was SPOTLESS (or close enough to it), when i had to change it (screwy drainplug threads), and engine has NEVER had any type of additional cleaner in the oil, but it's also has always has had good oil in it, plus 3k changes (and a good filter)



but yes for those engines having a lack of oil changes, it can definetly help though

BlkJ32

Ok just wanted to be certain....im debating whether to clean the ports with the manifold off or on....ill probaly end up doin it without takin it off but i will make sure to unplug any sensors or hoses that connect to the manifold or tb

webmastir

before i start unscrewing the main 8 bolts, is it NECESSARY to disconnect the negative battery connection before starting this?

hope someone can answer this quick.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

not really, but better safe then sorry

01tl4tl

fries- your oil pan and the oil gallies are very different

Run seafoam thru the oil with a fresh filter and see what came out- then you will be converted

the cleaning of the rings etc helps too, my bike gained 200 rpm at idle!

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

just saying that my motor is VERY clean compared to other ones out there, hell the front bank is still clean like when new just oil covered (no brown), but the rear does have some brown though, from running hotter then the front bank, due to lack of air flow and such


but that was more sarcastic though, but yeah any motor can use a little cleaning though, and spotty at that
also for the pan, shit drops down to it, from above, so a pretty good indication of the condition of the motor also, and when i am talking clean, i mean it still has the original color where the oil sits (and absolutely not a spec of sludge), there is a little discoloration around where the oil normally sits, but very minimal, and even then very light/thin at that

01tl4tl

tear down your motor and look at the rod bearing oil ports- see how small they are and how a little glaze could cause bigger problems

ck www.seafoamsales.com they updated the tech pages - good info on why and how seafoam works

other products have similar results with different methods,
years ago I worked in a shop with the machine that hooks into the fuel lines, and runs on 50/50 mix of gas and seafoam (from big cans!) for 30 minutes- then go blast the crud out

Your car may be a miracle on wheels- run on 87 octane in denver, never need a timing belt etcetc...but for the common folk it wont hurt do a good cleaning of everything
especially those in this thread-
being the DIY thermoblock and EGR port cleaning
It will help to clean everything with this mod or maitenance
E10 gas really is bad for the cars- they were not made for it and it leaves behind a lot of crud

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

yes, for most people it will be worth cleaning there motor up, and yes i got lucky when i bought my car in that it was VERY well maintained since new (not too commen), but just saying that regular oil changes with good oil can do wounders for keeping a motor clean inside
and yes i know how small some of the passages can be inside a motor, and can be easily plug, peanut lifters really have some small passages to them, like 2-3 specs of dirt across the passage and they are plugged or severely restricted, and then noisy, and not working properly

and that 87, no such thing as that here, geneally only 85 (yes 85), 89, and 91, but yeah only put 91 in mine (and prefer Shell also), but yeah alot of people like to cheap out though, and go for the cheapo gas