DIY: EVAP Canister & Shut Valve Replacement - AcuraZine Community

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Old 06-04-2009, 09:26 PM   #1
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DIY: EVAP Canister & Shut Valve Replacement

Hi All :

Here's some help to those who see that dreaded amber light comes on and a new EVAP canister is needed.

I just replaced my EVAP Canister & Shut Valve and it would have been great to have some guidance to reduce the time it took to do this job. I replaced these parts to resolve a code P1457 (Major EVAP Leak) diagnosed at the dealership.

1) Order the correct parts. The Canister is simple (PN 17011-S84-A00). However, you need to order the Canister Shut valve (PN 17310-S0X-A02) black in color with an electrical connector and not to be confused with 17550-S84-A01 VALVE, VENT SHUT (O.R.V.R.) which is white plastic and not the correct part. Order the 2 screws (PN 93893-05010-08 SCREW-WASHER (5X10)) that holds the shut valve on the canister as the old ones will be rusted and useless. I could not remove mine even with vice grips.

2) When the parts arrive, take a look and the canister and you will notice 4 plastic tube fittings at one end of the canister, thankfully all different sizes. Notice the one mounting bracket hole above all the tube fittings and the 4" slot in the other end. This is how the canister is mounted to the underside of the car.

3) The shut valve fits into the large hole and is the only one, so no confusion. Use the O ring (taped to the side of the canister) to form and seal between the canister and the shut valve and use the ordered screws to secure the two parts together.

4) Jack up the diver side rear and remove the rear wheel. The canister is located on the underside of the card directly below the driver side passenger seat along with all the other EVAP components. The fittings end of the canister is closest to the side of the car (thank you Acura). Carefully pull off all the tubing making sure to not to create another leak by causing a hole the rubber tube. The largest tube (tank vent) you will need to squeeze the fitting to remove. Remove the one electrical connector.

5) Locate the mount bolt directly above all the tube fittings. Put some anti-rust spray on the bolt heat (it will be rusted) and using a socket with extension remove the bolt. Once out, pull the canister toward the divers side and it should come free from the slot bracket at the other end of the canister. The canister should come free and fall into your hands.

6) Locate the new canister into the cavity and slide the end into the slot. Push the canister up to line up the bolt hole and screw in the old bolt. This may take a few attempts as you pretty much have to do this blind. Connect the one electrical connector and the four tubes to the correct sized fitting. This tubes are formed to go to a particular fitting so there should be no confusion.

7) Wheel back on, jack down and beer in hand cause you're done.

I know to some this might be simple but it's in a spot not many of us has ever seen and is somewhat unknown territory.

Hope this helps everyone.

smartypants
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:33 PM   #2
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awesome write up. I need to do this soon. Now I'll be doing it myself for sure. Well I would have anyways, but now I'll know what I;'m doing.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:35 PM   #3
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Nice write up. This should help a lot of people as our cars are becoming older.
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:01 AM   #4
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Thanks for the writeup- very helpful!

we still need fsttmys or other expert to verify that usa cars are the same

One thing to watch out for- to protect the cannister- is stopping the gas tank filling at the first auto shutoff click
Adding gas beyond that takes up the safety margin for gas volume/heat expansion in the tank
When gas gets up to the filler neck it CAN push raw fuel thru a vent tube meant to return vapors and send gasoline into the charcoal evap cannister
Thats supposed to deal with vapors not gas and saturates the medium
After that- its new parts time

Hopefully these are not a normal wearout all of us can expect..like certain ~other parts~ we dont talk about
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Old 06-05-2009, 05:24 AM   #5
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any pics for refference?
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:15 PM   #6
03 ABP tls
 
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yea ive never even heard of this thing. besides a code, what are signs of it going bad? and where is it located on the car?
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:18 PM   #7
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^It makes a ticking sound when it's about to go bad
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Old 06-06-2009, 04:26 PM   #8
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Hi All :

The only symptom I saw was the amber Recuring Revenue Indicator came on. As for clicking....I can't imagine sticking my head underneath the car and expect to hear a clicking noise ??

smartypants
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:22 PM   #9
I need 2 more gears
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smartypants View Post
Hi All :

The only symptom I saw was the amber Recuring Revenue Indicator came on. As for clicking....I can't imagine sticking my head underneath the car and expect to hear a clicking noise ??

smartypants
So your CEL is still on, same code?
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbuswell View Post
So your CEL is still on, same code?
Yes, my Recurring Revenue Indicator (CEL) is still on as I have not gotten round to disconnecting the battery to reset it. It will eventually reset itself if the error is not generated for a set amount of time. I'm not sure which option I'll take because its really immaterial...it's either fixed or it's not.

Sbuswell's is a very good question with regard to troubleshooting the EVAP system. The purpose of the EVAP system is to prevent gas fumes to vent directly into the atmosphere as the fuel tank loses or gains volume. To accomplish this simple goal, Honda (and I suppose other manufacturers) have devised a very complex series of valves, switches and rubber tubing. When it fails, it does not affect performance or present any symptoms other than the CEL coming on by tripped sensors located within the system itself.

Trouble shooting this system is problematic for the DIY'ers because you need to have specialized equipment to apply low pressure to various portions of the system and observe the maintaining of pressure (leaks) or the function of a specific valve. In short, the average person cannot diagnose this system without this equipment and the shop manual which describes the testing procedures.

So, unless you're an Acura Tech, this site will be invaluable to know what EVAP part replacement corrects what codes.

I'll let everyone know it this repair corrects my particular problem.

smartypants.

Last edited by smartypants; 06-07-2009 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 07-30-2009, 10:49 PM   #11
I need 2 more gears
 
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How are things going now, did the P1457 come back or is it gone? I'm changing out my evap canister and vent shut valve this weekend (got all the parts).
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:05 AM   #12
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Thanks for the write up steps.
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Old 07-31-2009, 11:52 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hANDYcaptd View Post
^It makes a ticking sound when it's about to go bad
Not necessarily. Its a known noise issue but it doesnt always mean its bad. Mine has ticked from the day i bought it in cold weather but it has never failed or caused a code.
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Old 07-31-2009, 01:46 PM   #14
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nice DIY..thanks.
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Old 08-08-2009, 05:57 PM   #15
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Hi All :

Copied from another thread......

So I need to confess I haven't been a very good Acuraziner. I replaced the two parts and reset the CEL light (I call it the Recurring Revenue Indicator) by disconnecting the battery. I started the car and the light stayed off (good sign..). I then drove for about 10 miles, ran over some train tracks and.......both the TCS and CEL came on.

Unfortunately I don't have an ODB scanner to know if the codes are new or if they are the same ones from before (P1457) and the stealership wants $120 to hook up their $100 ODB scanner to know for sure. The fact that it took a bump and the TCS light coming on does confuse the situation.

Now you might ask where did I get the idea to change out the canister and shut valve in the fist place ? A couple of years ago (yes, my CEL has been on for that long !!) I took it in to the slealership, paid the $120 and got a report back indicating these two parts where at fault. Searching here also confirmed that the canister and the shut valve were probably the cause.

So the make a short story long, I cannot confirm that I have resolved my problem. I just want to make sure all the facts are known to all before any others take action based on my experience.

smartypants
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Old 08-09-2009, 05:29 PM   #16
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I changed my evap canister and vent shut valve over a week ago and cleared the code. I've driven about 400 miles since and the light has not come back on. I'm pretty sure the problem is solved. Smartypants, go to walmart and buy an Actron Plus OBDII scanner, they are $89.00 and are extremely easy to use.
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Old 08-25-2009, 12:06 PM   #17
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did any of you replace the FILTER, CANISTER as well? I have this stupid code problem too, over 100k now and a new fuel cap didn't fix it. Was wondering if i should replace the filter as well as the other parts in this diy? Number 9 is the filter in this pic
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 08-25-2009, 06:01 PM   #18
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Hey c0v3rr1d3 :

No I didn't change that filter. I doubt that this would correct the issue as the code is a "major EVAP leak" and not a blocked or low fuel flow error.

I think this is a very bad design although most car did come with this "plumbers nightmare" and may still have this system. I talked to the dealer and they said it might be "the two-way valves", whatever or wherever they are. I get the impression that they just change out parts until the error goes away.

Let me know how you make out and I'll do the same.

smartypants.
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Old 09-07-2009, 04:31 PM   #19
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Cool. I just replaced the same parts as listed in post one of the OP's DIY. Will update at 500-1000 miles unless the light comes on sooner.
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Old 11-09-2009, 02:54 PM   #20
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Does anybody know exact part #'s of parts needed to change canister and shut valve and get rid of that annoying noise?
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Old 11-09-2009, 06:31 PM   #21
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^ Wow....reading owns you man...

It's in the 1st instruction of the DIY....
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:28 PM   #22
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How much are the parts please? Thanks,
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Old 12-17-2009, 11:25 PM   #23
I need 2 more gears
 
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$110.00 shipped I think, go to www.acuraautomotiveparts.org for the best prices.
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Old 12-18-2009, 12:40 PM   #24
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just remember to lube the o-ring when u put the parts together, else you will still have a leak cause it will most likely get pinched.
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Old 07-06-2010, 09:38 AM   #25
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Thanks for the great write up smartypants I will try this. Just finished fixing my EGR problem after buying a used 99 Acura 3.2TL. Now this. Also heard they may have a weak transmission. Oh well.
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Old 08-08-2010, 12:43 AM   #26
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Thanks for the great write up smartypants I will try this. Just finished fixing my EGR problem after buying a used 99 Acura 3.2TL. Now this. Also heard they may have a weak transmission. Oh well.
Well changed everything as posted above. After resetting I still get the P1457 code. Now what!
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:59 AM   #27
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my car is throwing this same code...changed the gas cap and reset the light...if it comes back on ill be looking into doing this...thanks for the write up
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:00 PM   #28
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I think the gas cap tightening/replacing is the solution for DTC code #1456. Here is a cut and paste out of the tech manual for both codes.


P1456 EVAP System Leak Detected (Fuel Tank System)

P1457 EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Control Canister System)
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:34 PM   #29
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Thumbs up Awesome write-up

smartypants - Thanks for the awesome write-up and parts resource. This is the third problem your posts have helped fix (Random shutdowns - bad ignition switch, lots of misfires - bad ignition coil). I'm hoping this does the trick for my P1457 code as well. Sounds like it's a pretty common failure.

Did you have to replace the 2-way valve as well? From reading a few posts where people had the dealer diagnose the problem sounds like the dealer generally also diagnosed the 2-way as being bad along with the CVS valve.
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Old 06-15-2011, 02:39 PM   #30
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Anyone know if a bad evap will cause decreased milage?
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:55 PM   #31
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Anyone know if a bad evap will cause decreased milage?
Theoretically you're losing molecules of gasoline to the atmosphere which could help push you down the road if they hadn't escaped. Realistically, you'd never know the difference. Probably a greater risk of skin cancer from exposure to the cel. Oh wait! The cel will make the alternator work harder. Never mind.
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Old 07-12-2011, 09:58 PM   #32
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Hi

I'm planning on ordering the parts tomorrow. I searched online for prices and saw that hondaautomotiveparts.com is cheaper than acuraautomotiveparts.org and the canister, shut valve and washers have the same part numbers at both honda and acura sites (not surprising since the TL shares many parts with the Accord).

The difference is about 10 bucks combined. Do you think I'll have any problems going with the Honda parts?

Thanks
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:40 AM   #33
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Thank U just did this DiY with my dad ill post if it worked later. PS. to all people dont forget to order 2 of the screws needed PN 93893-05010-08 SCREW-WASHER (5X10)) htere only one you have to update the quantity . I ordered only one, i thought there were 2 in the bag but no just 1. Didnt read the whole thing. Thanks smartypants
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:43 AM   #34
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I just replaced mine and my CEL doesn't come on anymore. After two years the problem is finally fixed . Thanks for the writeup.

FYI I ordered my parts from the Honda site I mentioned above. They have the same PNs and cost 10 bucks less.

Cheers
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Old 08-30-2011, 09:08 PM   #35
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Ha!

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Hi All :

The only symptom I saw was the amber Recuring Revenue Indicator came on. As for clicking....I can't imagine sticking my head underneath the car and expect to hear a clicking noise ??

smartypants
Pretty close to my phrase, "Random Revenue Generator". :-)
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Old 09-05-2011, 05:52 PM   #36
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Got the code (P1457) for the leak. I replaced the gas cap but the code came again a day later. Ordered the parts today and will update as soon as I put them on.

P.
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:37 AM   #37
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Got the code (P1457) for the leak. I replaced the gas cap but the code came again a day later. Ordered the parts today and will update as soon as I put them on.

P.
I had the P1457 code on my 99 TL as well. I recommend replacing the shutoff valve first before the EVAP canister because, in my case, just replacing the valve cleared the code permanently. It was not necessary for me to replace the EVAP canister which saved me $120. This same strategy may save you money as well. If the code remains after replacing the valve, then you replace the canister anyways. Make sure you can return unused parts for a refund.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:03 PM   #38
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I had the P1457 code on my 99 TL as well. I recommend replacing the shutoff valve first before the EVAP canister because, in my case, just replacing the valve cleared the code permanently. It was not necessary for me to replace the EVAP canister which saved me $120. This same strategy may save you money as well. If the code remains after replacing the valve, then you replace the canister anyways. Make sure you can return unused parts for a refund.

I ordered both parts to include the screws and it was 110.. I just replaced the parts tonight and took some pics. Will post later.

Took about 45 minutes.

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Old 09-14-2011, 11:31 AM   #39
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to 05TSXPAT For This Useful Post:
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:32 AM   #40
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awesome. thx 05TSXPAT. hopefully those pics stay up for a while. most who upload them to photobucket don't keep their account active for years after, and they get rm'd
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