When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I finally finished converting every ugly green bulb inside to a blue LED.
It was a lot easier than I expected. The gauges are completely plug and play, and I didn't even have to open the cluster. I would have done this a long time ago if I knew how easy it was.
Do you have a list of the bulbs and quantities you used?
I could make a DIY if there's interest for it.
Originally Posted by mastini
Not sure if OP used the same source, but check: ledautomotive
This website has excellent customer service, and will make sure you're happy. Unfortunately, their LEDs are overpriced and last gen tech. They were a good resource back when people had to solder resistors onto their T3 neo wedge bulbs, but you can buy everything plug and play for dirt cheap on Amazon/eBay now.
Fog Light: 2x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb
Sunroof: 2x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb
TCS/VSA and Cruise: 3x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb
Light Dimmer Wheel: 1x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb
Select/Reset: 2x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb
Seat Heater Buttons: 2x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb (x1 each)
--I added some white-out inside the above buttons to get better light spread--
Navi Climate Control Bar: 5x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb (Use White or Red for Defrost, Temp Reading, and Temp Button.)
These are made to handle the 12v power from our car, so you don't need to add any resistors. Just shave off the tops of the LEDs so they are flat on top (Use dremmel or rub against sandpaper).
Power Window Switches: 7x 3v 3mm LEDs (4x for driver's door, and 1x for each other door)
Memory Seat: 1x T3 Neo Wedge Bulb, and 2x 3v 3mm LEDs (This particular Neo Wedge bulb needs to be super bright and have a super wide angle. I used a triple LED from Autolumination, and it barely fit.)
You only need one, but this comes with many of each color in case you ruin some. These are very small, so take your time.
I can make a DIY for any of these swaps, as they are all pretty basic. Use flat top LEDs for a wider light angle, and use some white-out inside the button housings if you need better spread.
Sweet ass build Karanx! man I wish I had the patience to do this... But I use the TL so little for night drives now that Its even less likely to be ever done and since my MDX is already Full LEDs? I am even more than happy to use it in the night rather than the TL.
Also: You were running hot in the first pic? issue with the temp gauge?
Sweet ass build Karanx! man I wish I had the patience to do this... But I use the TL so little for night drives now that Its even less likely to be ever done and since my MDX is already Full LEDs? I am even more than happy to use it in the night rather than the TL.
Also: You were running hot in the first pic? issue with the temp gauge?
Nah, I changed the gauge to be actually useful instead of basically a dummy light.
When stock, the gauge would only start moving when you were already overheating (around 235F), and would hit full red at ~273F. Jeez, your car would be steaming and damaged by then.
Now, the gauge will hit full red (220F) when the car is starting to overheat, so I know to shut off before the damage is done. My car naturally cycles between 190F-210F according to my EMS.
How did you change its behavior? its all done by the EMS ECU?
No, the AEM EMS 2 30-6051 doesn't actually output a coolant signal, even though it accepts the OEM coolant sensor. Some people use the 30-6050, which does output the OEM coolant signal (Kings Motosports). I had to figure out a custom way to drive the gauge, which allowed me the flexibility to modify it's parameters.
This website has excellent customer service, and will make sure you're happy. Unfortunately, their LEDs are overpriced and last gen tech. They were a good resource back when people had to solder resistors onto their T3 neo wedge bulbs, but you can buy everything plug and play for dirt cheap on Amazon/eBay now.
That's pretty sick Karanx! Wish you wouldve recorded a diy video while you were doing all this as I personally think I'd eff something up if I took all that stuff apart
Was there anything special you had to do to the odometer display? I can't get it to light up, not sure why. Tried multiple LED, switching polarities, etc. I've never gotten them to light up.
^ This is a well-known problem with the TL. Remove the gauge cluster and replace the circuitboard on the back for the odometer display. ~$45. There are videos on youtube showing how to remove the cluster. It's not too terribly involved.
This website has excellent customer service, and will make sure you're happy. Unfortunately, their LEDs are overpriced and last gen tech. They were a good resource back when people had to solder resistors onto their T3 neo wedge bulbs, but you can buy everything plug and play for dirt cheap on Amazon/eBay now.
Hello! If you see this response, I'm wondering if you have any recollection of how you pulled out the little 12V 3mm bulbs for the Navi unit. They seem to be pretty well in there and I cannot get a grip on them and am afraid to press too hard and break the originals.
You have to disassemble the navi entirely, and solder in LED bulbs. You have to bend the leads to position them so they will be in the middle of the button.
Anybody got links to quality LEDs? I used the ones linked above but most of them failed (blown or flickering) after a year or so and I want to redo them with something better.
02-22-2017, 12:39 PM
. I might leave that for another time. Finish up the other easier conversions first.