knice

So what started as a rough idle, has now turned into driving rough while driving with check engine and ! light on. Getting 7 codes p300-306 and p1399 ignition system or misfire. I've changed the plugs, coils, and a valve adjustment was done less than 10k miles ago. Checked the gasket wasn't blocking egr ports and cleaned them as well.

I need to fix this problem rather quickly and I can't afford to pay for guessing. Would you suggest a dealer or private shop? I feel like the dealer is going to tell me it's valve related regardless. When getting these codes, is it reasonable to expect whoever fixes the problem to get it right the first time, or is this a guessing game?

What scares me is there no matter where I take it, they're just going to guess as I would and try to justify me paying for something working.

01tl4tl

You will save more money letting us guide you thru the diagnostics- its pretty basic and things most techs would overlook or think is worse than it really is

When you say you ckd the cover gasket correct, Was the entire egr pathway cleaned while manifold was off to adjust the valves?
You remove the entire intake manifold from the engine and place on workbench to use 3 cans carb cleaner and a wire coat hanger to poke thru the length of the internal passage of manifold?
Was that done?? or some version of it which has now clogged the system?

multi cyl misfire is most often 1 bad coil , maybe 2, but never all 6 like a shop will sell you
Since you replaced them already lets go back and test each one and look at the connectors
Assuming you reset the ecu already!!?
Test each coil by unplugging its power lead at the coil , one at a time test, looking for slight to major drop in rpm, = coil good!
No rpm drop = bad coil!
Replace coil = reset the ecu by removing the CLOCK fuse from passenger end of dash for 1 minute then reinsert fully- close cover, done

03s require an idle relearn procedure after reset, earlier years do not
See our diy or owner book for procedure

The other problem is the IACV idle air control valve gets gummed/carbon'd up
You take it off and clean with the intake manifold, another easy job
Combined jobs should take 2 hours at a casual pace with breaks to refer to diy~
Did you do that yet?
Normally that makes idle jump from 800-1500 and back, up and down

What spark plugs EXACTLY did you install? cheapos will burn out in days to weeks,
ngk 8 dollars each are the correct plug

for $150 dollars the dealer or shop will tell you it has several codes and they mean this
But wont tell you that such and such codes with these symptoms really means...xyz!
And that's not even to find the real problem!!!!!
just a diagnosis fee PLUS whatever time to replace all the parts they can and then decide it needs further inspection, at your expen$e

as I always say Codes are CLUES not a diagnosis in themselves

01tl4tl

did you do the work on it? valves adjusted to spec?
the 2 hoses under TB can get swapped, one is coolant and the other VAC!

01tl4tl

the cover gasket where you ck for blocked port- you match gasket to the cover- not to the engine side, hidden port is on cover

Dabu

You might find some useful information in this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...e-help-720450/

knice

I took it to a private shop. Let the guessing begin -- even though the codes i have state misfire on 5 cylinders. He's saying he "thinks" fuel injector for cylinder 1 is not working properly. *Fingers crossed*

01tl4tl

not even dude!
that would not throw the infamous coil codes that you are getting
Remember codes are CLUES not a diagnosis in themselves, and will often try to lead you astray.
We use combined experiences and knowledge to work a problem, rather than hoping its a fuel injector
Whats that based on- tech removed spark plugs and found terrible pattern on #1 plug?

01tl4tl

shop did valve adjust= so you have no idea if they really cleaned egr system.
Its not something a non TL tech would even think about it needing

knice

Update - car still in shop. Mechanic has been testing, testing, and more testing and coming up with nothing. I called after a week of waiting to find out he took my entire engine apart due to frustration I guess. All i know is i didn't authorize it and I have to wait until friday, ugh! I can only imagine what this guy will try and charge for diagnosis even if he finds nothing.

01tl4tl

have you given him a printout of this thread= so he gets ideas from people who own one of these cars?~

01tl4tl

He probably took the intake manifold off- and called it the entire engine
If he removed it from the car, you may as well get a used junkyard engine and install at this point!

Bad Coil, clogged egr passage and ports INSIDE the intake manifold = can ONLY be cleaned by removal of manifold from top of engine, Dirty iacv inside bottom of throttle body which comes out with the manifold for egr cleaning
That's our most common probs, besides some bs cheap spark plugs installed!
NGK $8 each is what it needs
then an ecu reset by R&R the CLOCK fuse for 1 minute Located passenger end of dash

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Should have tried to work through it. Now that shop is going to take your pants down.

TLer trash

Even "professional" mechanics can be aware of pattern failures on a particular car. In our case, after coil(s), plugs, valve adjustment, egr ports, etc., fuel injectors would be high on my list to check. We've seen a few on this site; I've seen a few on professional sites. This isn't a license to guess, however. Injectors can be somewhat tested on the car with a relatively cheap tester that pulses the injector while you watch fuel pressure drop. This will catch a partially or completely plugged injector, but won't catch one that has good flow, but a shitty spray pattern. Bottom line, though, is you don't have to pay for anything you didn't authorize. If the guy isn't in over his head, he should be able to explain to you what he thinks the problem might be, why he thinks that, and how much money it's going to cost to diagnose it.

knice

I read something about the initial diagnostic code having truth more so than following tests. When he first put my car on the scanner, it came back as injector 1 being bad. He tested again, it said 3 were working 3 weren't. Further testing said all were working so he completely strayed from the fuel injector path. All my research says this should be an injector or multiple. I'm assuming he cleaned the hell out of them as this is an old school mechanic who knows his way around a car. He just doesn't feel comfortable guessing with parts when he's not sure. It's a love hate relationship right now between us lol.

knice

Car at the dealers for 20 mins, they call and say they recommend retiming the valves LMAO. My main concern brought to life. They seem to think p1399 is connected to valves. My concern is what about the other 5 cylinders missing lol? $500 bucks for this guess, we'll see how it works out. Did valve timing less than 15k miles ago.

knice

Update- decided valve timing was good. They want to replace all my new 3rd party ignition coils with oem even though all test fine. They say they used oem coils as a test and the car was running great. I'm going to flip shit if I buy all new oem coils and the problem remains lol.

01tl4tl

dont believe a word the service writer said -only direct from techs mouth means anything!
the writers job depends on bringing in money, to the point of selling valve adjustments (based on mileage not fact of been done before or not) and new injectors and all new coils,,often based on nothing but codes-
THEN tell you it needs more!! like a real diagnosis maybe?

what do I always say? codes are CLUES not a diagnosis in themselves

Why would you let them touch anything at 125$ an hour!! to guess?!
Was the SENIOR TECH involved in diagnosis? anyone lower I would not trust!
Pretty odd for them to swap out coils then put yours back on,,without consulting you? Could have fixed the prob and sent you home with parts to return,, if that were the real problem, story sounds suspect!!
Most dealers don't stock many parts beyond oil filter and brake pads for us~

Chojun

$125/hr is a freaking rip-off, your time and money is better spent looking for a reputable mechanic who knows Japanese imports.

01tl4tl

local dealer used to be 125 an hour, probably more by now- regular shops at 90 are a bargain!! DIY all the way!

knice

Problem solved -- this will be the one time in life I'm happy the car was taken to the dealer. Truth be told, no matter how good of a mechanic you are, no one was solving this problem unless they had spare oem coils and and a theory.

So I had rough idle which made me change the ignition coils. Granted I bought them off ebay for $100 (3rd party) and they came with a lifetime warranty. Didn't fix the problem. Car drove fine with the same rough idle for 3k miles then starts driving rough throwing all sorts of misfire codes w/p1399. All coils tested fine using multiple tests. Somehow these Acura bastards figured what the heck, even though they test fine lets throw some used oem ones in laying around the shop.

Well, that was the problem. Those pos third party coils caused me so much anguish! Rough idle was caused by the front (large) motor mount as they said it's hard when it should be soft. Side bar -- do those have any vacuum lines connected to them? I'm going to buy the part (oem) and have a friend replace. I paid $360 for the coils on oemacuraparts.com and had them shipped to the dealer. All in all they charged $120 diagnostic and $125 for the coil installation. It was painful paying $125 to have them undo coils but I wanted to hold them accountable if they were wrong. Walked out of the dealer paying $260 after tax and I'm a happy camper.

Moral of the story -- NEVER BUY 3RD PARTY IGNITION COILS -- NEVER!

Thanks for all your help guys. I really appreciate your responses and am now a devoted member of this forum.

01tl4tl

that's probably why we suggest oe or local stores aftermarket version coil!!
ebay,,,not for me on this part,,
You said you replaced them - didn't mention with what~

01tl4tl

the front motor mount is very solid looking when good, it leaks a weird oil and collapses when failed
Does run on vac to stiffen on application of throttle
See our DIY for help, floor jack needed

Passenger side mount is a normal type solid rubber mount, often fails after front was bad for a while and it got extra load

03-6/6

any engine management part/sensor should not be aftermaket.

i work for ford and we see all kinds of fuck shit parts cause different problems and it almost always roots back to some hacked up aftermarket shit.

01tl4tl

for us, many are on a quality aftermarket coil, OP was not on the best thing available~

I agree on use of Only Mother Honda parts in certain places- The TL is a picky girl
Honda DW-1 atf, Honda PS fluid for sure!! Honda genuine thermostat- accept no others

some aftermarket motor mounts are ok, the side one, or front rear without a vac system, just plug the vac line to it. Poly racing type mounts are in use too- you wont break another one, at the cost of soft, smooth engine mounts- it really tightens things up!