Aluminum Underdrive Crank Pulley
05-13-2004, 12:37 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by optiq
ya plenty of mechanics have frowned upon the idea of a lightened crank pully.. its heavy for a reason.
05-13-2004, 06:08 PM
#44
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You might want to get some first hand info from chuckstl. I met him at one of our track meets here in MD. He has pulley's and plenty of other mods on his 2000 TL, and he has 175,500miles on it. I'm curious to know what his input would be. I am also thinking about purchasing the UR crank pulley, so any info is greatly appreciated. There are a few post on the CL site regarding these as well.
05-13-2004, 09:54 PM
#47
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ok from wut i understand the only pully that actually provides any power gains is the crank pully the other too r jus for the alternator and powersteering therefore not really giving ne extra power. so if u wanted only the power u cud buy jus the crank pulley is this correct?
05-14-2004, 10:26 AM
#48
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Originally Posted by soccerbenk
ok from wut i understand the only pully that actually provides any power gains is the crank pully the other too r jus for the alternator and powersteering therefore not really giving ne extra power. so if u wanted only the power u cud buy jus the crank pulley is this correct?
05-14-2004, 04:49 PM
#49
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so am i also correct in that UR makes 2 cranck pullies the Ultra Sc one which is the same size as stock except lighter and also the Ultra S one which is lighter and slightly underdrives it
05-15-2004, 11:52 AM
#50
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Originally Posted by fla-tls
Is it hard to install? Yes. You have to remove an engine mount to get the P/S belt on and the crankshaft pulley has a torque of about 180 ft-lbs. I don't know how many shadetree mechanics have a torque wrench that goes that high. In addition to that, if you have an auto tranny there's a special procedure that has to be used for getting the pulley on or off without spinning the engine (manual is easier because you can lock up the engine by putting the car in gear). It took my mechanic about 2 hours. He actually said the hardest part was removing the alternator (go figure).
I am curious if the UR pulleys have the hex-shape cast into them too?
k.
05-16-2004, 05:13 AM
#51
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Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
Product Description Part # Purchase Direct
2. Ultra Sc 12-Volt Charger Series Crank Pulley 120611012
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2. Ultra Sc 12-Volt Charger Series Crank Pulley 120611012
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10-03-2015, 09:57 PM
#53
quick tip for breaking loose the crank flywheel bolt. Get a socket on a breaker bar on the bolt, make sure the breaker bar is long enough that you can brace it against the ground. after you have braced the breaker bar on the ground, crank the engine for a split second. Just bump it over a little bit, you don't want the car to start. It's terrifying, but it works. I had the hex thing and I couldn't get it to stay square, then I tried this (against all of what I thought was my better judgement) and it actually worked.
10-13-2015, 11:32 AM
#54
wow reviving an 11 year since last post thread!
Did you know this information has been widely circulated in the timing belt threads AND the light crank pulley threads for about 7 years!
thank you for the effort BUT Do a search before posting~
Its the DIY way to get the bolt loose- the trick is getting it tight to the 181 foot pound spec it requires!!
Removal of the ignition fuse and fuel pump fuse will prevent any chance of it trying to start
Did you know this information has been widely circulated in the timing belt threads AND the light crank pulley threads for about 7 years!
thank you for the effort BUT Do a search before posting~
Its the DIY way to get the bolt loose- the trick is getting it tight to the 181 foot pound spec it requires!!
Removal of the ignition fuse and fuel pump fuse will prevent any chance of it trying to start
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