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So I pick up a clean TL 2003 (pic soon) the only thing it needed was a transmission rebuild.
Got the over haul kit.
Just got done putting the Valve body back together and thought about ...
Does anyone have pics of the 2005 06 mods inside the transmission that help keep the clutches cooler?
I have only read that there is a mod that sprays the clutches?
Its not a "mod" Its a complete case re-design with 4 Shaft Design vs 3.. You should really think about doing the AV6 Swap in the future if you plan to keep the car.
Perhaps you are confusing the "OIL JET KIT" which focused on a completely different problem altogether..
It's going to be my kids first car. If he gets 30,000 out of it before destroying it, I'll do the swap.
For $700 plus 200 for the full kit, he ha a car that is better than most. It's safe too!
I 5 minutes from putting the cases back together and had to print out a page that was lost to the dirty transmission oily floor. hahaha
was your trans case an original- was there an external oil jet kit located on top of trans in the normal filler hole
or was there a large bolt with ATF stamped on it for fluid filling?
did trans have bolts with blue paint on their heads? main bolts trans to eng and smaller bolts holding brackets on visible from above??
that's an warranty rebuild unit `post 2005` with the new case design and improvements including oil jet kit went inside
best you can do with old style is the new Kevlar clutches and keep the atf changes every year
Make sure to use only Honda genuine DW-1 atf 7.3 qts capacity
and the level ckd per owner book `at/for desired temp` - is BETWEEN the 2 marks
ck your front and rear motor mounts- vac boosted and oil filled! front likes to go every 70kmiles~ followed by pass side mount failure
If you pull off a full trans rebuild on the first try (shops average 3 attempts)
we will give you some sort of imaginary GIANT SIZED trophy!
and have many beating a path to your garage for some help
Seriously, good job there! most would never attempt our trans overhaul
take a look at the regular and problem and fixes sections for other items to look for on this car- some maintenance needs not found in schedule like cleaning egr system path inside intake manifold
also -if its not a salvage title- register with acura at 1 800 382 2238 x5 with cars vin, ask about OPEN RECALLS- there may be an airbag part avail for you FREE!!
Also Download free copy of the owner operator book- have son read everything twice!the TL book has many tricks and tips for better driving- seat heater use -if you have the digital ac temp control, what to expect from engine startup to trans operation speeds, those 2 thunks at low speed and more
we are here to share our knowledge of a car we all love!
It's going to be my kids first car. If he gets 30,000 out of it before destroying it, I'll do the swap.
For $700 plus 200 for the full kit, he ha a car that is better than most. It's safe too!
I 5 minutes from putting the cases back together and had to print out a page that was lost to the dirty transmission oily floor. hahaha
It should be back in the car tonight.
You can get an '05 Civic DX for $5K that would last longer and be less expensive to fix when the kids put it into the curb. A TL is just too nice for a first car.
I had to stop last night. The case is closed and I was putting the wiring harness when I stopped.
When I pulled it apart the only clutch that was bad was 2ndgear. 128,000 and really burnt oil. The metals in 2nd gear turn blue,and there was a spot that the metal had melted and collected in one spot oneach one.
The rest of the clutches show their age but were in greatshape.
I found the right side seal out of place and great signs ofleakage. I did not find any parts in thebottom, only the sludge from the clutches and metals.
big as life- blue paint on bolt heads!!!! that's a good start! means less miles than indicated- are on trans
any acura dealer can get you the miles and date of the trans replacement by cars VIN
it likely went in for the oil jet recall and had certain heat damage so it was replaced as a unit- or it had clutch wearout before 100kmiles/7 years
then it got a free warranty unit
IS there a large- 21mm bolt head on top of trans - stamped ATF?
that's a newer design post `feb 2005` change to new case
if not and has that oil derrick looking thing with atf line to it on top of trans-secured by 1, 10 mm bolt? thats a -pre 05 original case design= but new parts inside
on pre 05s its 3rd gear clutch pack sits off by itself away from any cooling flow!
they fixed that on new case
The recall installed `external spray bar` kit is for direct oiling to 2nd gear shaft and gear, moved internal on post 05s
I am guessing that based on large amount of plain old crud and sludge inside trans in general- the OP wisely got a rebuilt or new torque convertor
remember, when we do a drain of fluid that nearly half the total capacity of 7.3 qts is trapped in the TC! and all we can do is try to move it out with the short drives between each drain
Certainly this is a lesson in changing at least 1 drain of 3 -3.5 qts every year,,maybe sooner!
trans are not cheap for the average driver
Yes, blue bolt on the mid case bolts.
Yes a large 21 mm bolt with ATF
??? that's a newer design post `feb 2005`"
No oil derrick thing
The 3rd gear clutch pack is by itself. It is put on after the case halves are put together. (drive's side) On tear down the 3rd gear clutch was good.
The 2nd gear was burnt really bad. (see pic) All the steels had this mark.
I did a full tear down. All valves were pulled, clean, soaked, and reinstalled. All shafts were pull a part, and cleaned.
All seals, screens, and nylons were replaced. The kit had every part in it that the book called to be replaced.
The only problem I had was dropping one of the check balls and not knowing it until I was putting back together. I was having a lucky moment and found that SOB. Had to pull the three bolt cover off to compare it to confirm it was the right one.
I have a leak right now from using a chain to support the motor. It somewhere below the throttle body. I'll pressure check it tomorrow night to find the leak.
The silver spot is were the metal move and became a high spot on both side about .002 to .003 thicker
Yes I have a new toque converter. There is not a good way t flush it unless you cut it open. I could and TIGed it close but trying to balance it would have been more than what I could do. hahaha
For 100 dollars? Change it.
yes the post 05 case has improved oil passages for all the parts, recall installed oil derrick thingy moved inside as a direct sprayer to 2nd gear
and iirc 3rd gets some sort of cooling passage to/near it, compared to their first attempt~
this is probably the most info we have on a teardown and rebuild
Lets hope next post is about the perfect shifting 50 miles test drive!
Do you think just failure to change fluid was main cause of the burning of 2nd,
or maybe some extra abuse from high rpm downshifts using SS mode?
we caution most against that- puts heat into 3rd and 2nd they don't need
I think the car was adult owned and driven for most of its life where it was well taken care of. It then went to a college student. THings went bad there. The front has a some damage, driving lights, crack in the bottom of the bumper. I think it was stuck and it was toasted trying to get it out. It was donated to a good cause where it was sold. The shop that normally repairs these for profit for the cause decided it was not worth fixing. My cost to date.
725 car
200 kit
100 toque converter
20 front ball joints(only because I have them apart)
The oil was very burnt and the bottom was full of h black crude.
128XXX on the clock.
Good luck on the project car.....seems like ya may be able to flip the car for a profit.
If ya decide to keep it, let us know how things go down the road.
This is the inside of the bell housing. The valve body are separated by metal plates. Do not scratch them. I don't know if the blue is normal? The two gears are the pump.
For the valves pull them out and keep them in order. Look out for the small springs
Clean parts in sections and pile them back together.
now we understand how this makes for a good student car for the kid!
cheap price and dad can pull off any repairs needed!
Next up timing belt and water pump are likely needed on this ~restoration~
you may want to replace the hid headlight system now (based on age) and reseal the housing to lens- big problem there,
60-100 bucks gets a full setup of modern parts that require only an inline connector to oe ballast power leads to make it work with stock relay and system
see any low beam thread for info
only our low beam is HID I have recently seen on here, LED Headlight bulbs for us!!!
brighter and lower power draw (more a concern to the motorcyclist in the group who need both!)
Nice work and yes the blue color is normal on the separator plate.
Did you use the Sonnax or Translab upgrade kit for the valve body ?
Also do not over torque any of the valve body bolts for good results.
The valve body was a cleaned and reuse. The kit provided all screens, seals, and o rings for this.
One thing to note. The three nuts on the end of the shaft measure @33.5 mm. It might be a key note as the 34mm is not a standard socket. The 3rd gear clutch add the requirement of a thin wall socket. I cut one down to fit. (Its good to have a lathe in the shop)
The last of it is going back together. Still looking for the right spot one of the wires is grounded and mounted.
sooooooooooooo anyone near you is welcome to drop by for a weekend overhaul?
You looking for the ground wire to trans?- goes near the top iirc (read on azine as problem found type thread)
ALAM: as long as the crash wasn't a front end demolished - sudden stoppage and curb jumping can damage axles and parts of the trans
a base model/type P on both vehicles is good for the swap
So today I got to fire it up. I got to put it in reverse and drive before the car told me I had not ground the ECU. I missed the ground for the ECU (under the throttle body). The transmission felt good. But when the engine started its 1000 to 2000 rpm cycling I had to call it quits for the weekend for a road trip. Sunday I'll ground it and take it out.
is there any difference beetwen TL P and TL S 5speed automatic trans ?
will 2000 TL P trans work on 2002 TL S ?
there is a man sells his one month rebuilt trans just for $400 (2000 TL P)
thanks
They will bolt on but the TL-S transmissions has 2 different ratios on 4th 5th gear to take advantage of the extra power of the J32A2. If you replace it with a TL-p which has slightly shorter ratios it will feel faster on 4th and 5th gear. But you will most likely get slightly worse MPG at highway.
Bad news P0505 and the engine is revving 1000 to 2500-3000 after one or two minute warm up. I think I missed a plug. Then I get three lights, Maint Req'd, TCS, & the engine.
Check all the vacuum and electrical connections. Chances are the IAC valve is causing the erratic idle fluctuating up and down. Make sure that the coolant system is burped of air and that both cooling fans work. Could be a loose ground wire somewhere or bad ECT sensor ? Try cleaning the IAC valve.
They will bolt on but the TL-S transmissions has 2 different ratios on 4th 5th gear to take advantage of the extra power of the J32A2. If you replace it with a TL-p which has slightly shorter ratios it will feel faster on 4th and 5th gear. But you will most likely get slightly worse MPG at highway.
Often a very low battery- just jumped from dead battery= is the cause of numerous FALSE codes and lights
the ol GIGO at work~ sensors need voltage and good grounds
Got all the small braided grounds from frame to engine AND trans?
that other ground wire on trans? under, iirc from reading other post
Note: it is generally advised NOT to jump a dead TL, (charge batt first to get some semblance of life in it)
The alternator is not made to recharge batt from dead, (it will do it= with consequences) Makes it work overtime and can reduce its life,,,,substantially
So 180 miles on the rebuild and it happened. Flashing D5. The speedometer would work and stop. It stayed in 5 gear getting me home except for the last 5 miles. I had 1 & 2 the last 5 miles and they were good. When I went to park it, it had the lockout to reverse.
I have not hook the tester to it and will have the codes in the morning. Up to this point it ran like a raped ape.
P0720 Turn to page 14-297 Problem in Countershaft Speed Sensor Circuit.
Step 1 Is there a code for the MAP sensor? No, only one code.
Step 2 Disconnect speed sensor and check for power...
Ok so when the heater has gotten the shop above freezing and I have coffee in hand I check that.
Stay tuned.
10-12-2014, 02:35 PM
Yeppur, the tranny's are interchangeable and will bolt right in.
