Padre

I have a 2001 Acura TL 3.2 very low mileage (sitting for ten-12 years) and want to remove and clean out the injectors. I believe that they are clogged. Are there any instructions (w/pictures) to show/tell me how to do this? I am fairly mechanically inclined.

01tl4tl

I would run Seafoam thru the gas tank before removing the injectors
Cleaning them is a specialized shops job- you often have to send them in the mail
Why do you think they are clogged

Has someone already talked to you about changing all the fluids and timing belt now- age is the killer of rubber parts and fluids gather moisture, sitting doesn't help a car

01tl4tl

ck out our DIY section, its a couple of lines down the main thread titles,
where you started in this section, look for `NEW Official 2nd gen TL DIY..`
you cant miss it!

Padre

Thank you for your response. The reason I think I can't run the seafoam throught the injectors is because I can't get the engine running. Is there anyway that I can get the Seafoam through the injectors without the engine running?

Skirmich

^ Nope.
Are you sure the problem isn't your key being recognized? 10-12 year old key could have been damaged and the immobilizer system is preventing you to start the engine.

To know this:
Put the key on position II
A little green key on the dash will beep then go off
If the little green key stays ON and doesn't go off your key isn't being recognized.

Padre

Thank you Skirmich. Yes the key is being recognized. Tge green light goes on does go on and then goes off. The fuel fump activates and then goes off. I do know that I am getting fuel to the engine.

Skirmich

There should be a check engine code.. But if you don't have an OBDII scanner it would be tricky to know what is the problem.


Have you removed the spark plugs to check for tip corrosion?

Padre

Removed spark plugs. checked for spark and have it. Dont have a OBDII scanner. Are they expensive?

Skirmich

The cheapest and basic are around 40bucks? I think autozone sells them for 60bucks tops.. Its a very basic unit but very useable for pulling codes, Works on all OBDII cars basically 1997 to Recent models.

Padre

Thanks, I have an auto-zone near me. I guess I'll pick one up there. Maybe try Amazon?

Skirmich

This is the unit most Autozone sells

For a couple bucks more you can get a more sophisticated unit but bear in mind there is some link issues with Autel OBDII scanners and GM cars, If you plan on using it or have a GM car then the Autozone model seems to be the most reliable.

01tl4tl

HFT = Harbor Freight Tools has a few models OBDI II (or `2`) to choose from
Do you get the Yellow CEL warning on dash?

When you say you cant get it running- It cranks to fire the spark plugs, but wont start the engine?
Any smell of raw fuel in exhaust? or under hood?
There is new fuel in the tank? old stuff, more than a year= may not ignite properly
Pops or backfires or cranks slower than usual?

Spark plugs- color of spark? blue or yellow?
Did you replace them? ngk Iridium are preferred- 8 dollars EACH= for a reason~

Have you ckd the level of engine oil and coolant in res bottle and in rad itself?
lets make sure we are not looking in the wrong direction by overlooking the basics!!

WHY was it parked 10+ years? did the timing belt jump a tooth = engine damage
something bad had to have taken it off the road

Padre

My brother-n-law and sister had passed away over ten years ago and the car was sitting in a church parking lot since then. The title couldn't be resolved until now. and no one started the car. It is now in our possession. The car is perfect inside.

musiclevelz5

First make sure your T belt has not jumped teeth or snapped/ripped. If that has happened you will have to get a used engine to drop in.

Take off the front top timing cover, I believe its three or four bolts. Then have someone crank the car while your watching the belt turn. If it doesn't turn then the belt is snapped rendering the engine no good. If/when the belt turns then check that its timed properly by lining up the marks on the crankshaft to the ones on both of the camshafts.

The reason I say to check this first is because a timing belt sitting for 10+ years will most likely degrade to the point of snapping the first couple of times you try to start the engine.

Padre

Thank you. Im going to try this on Thursday. It seems like my last resort. Thanks