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2000 Acura TL with only 74k miles. misfire 1-6 so I had all the plugs changed. coils were good. same day i got the plugs changed same thing happened. cel went back on with multiple misfires after i tried starting car while still warm. had entire intake manifold removed and cleaned a week later.. all was good for 2 weeks and it happened again. tried starting the car while engine was still warm. car started, but than engine sputtered and idled very low and died.. tried it again, same thing like it wasnt getting enough air or fuel. 3rd time i started it i pushed down on the gas to keep the rpms up and after a little while i was good.. it didnt register a cel this time. this never happens on a cold engine, just when it's warm or hot still from running around town and not giving it a chance to cool down.. basically what happens is i'll try starting the car, i know when it's going to happen because it will take longer for it to crank and turnover, and then it happens. it will start but will shake/sputter/misfire drop rpms and die...i have to forcefully give it gas from the pedal to keep it alive till it smooths out. all while the engine is shaking.. called my mechanic.. he thinks it might be the egr valve, not the egr port, but the egr valve itself. the egr port and egr valve opening are clean and not clogged.. could it be the valves? injectors? possible vacuum leak? fuel pump or fuel regulater? bringing it in to get scanned and looked at again in 2 days. already blew a ton of money on her. but i love this car. any suggestions? like i said, the hard starting and misfires never happen on a cold engine and only sometimes happen on a warm/hot engine if that helps.. other than that, car runs good.. it has some vibration , but it needs mounts.. so i'm guessing thats the reason for that..or maybe not because it vibrates the same amount in park, neutral, or drive..
2000 Acura TL with only 74k miles. misfire 1-6 so I had all the plugs changed. coils were good. same day i got the plugs changed same thing happened. cel went back on with multiple misfires after i tried starting car while still warm. had entire intake manifold removed and cleaned a week later.. all was good for 2 weeks and it happened again. tried starting the car while engine was still warm. car started, but than engine sputtered and idled very low and died.. tried it again, same thing like it wasnt getting enough air or fuel. 3rd time i started it i pushed down on the gas to keep the rpms up and after a little while i was good.. it didnt register a cel this time. this never happens on a cold engine, just when it's warm or hot still from running around town and not giving it a chance to cool down.. basically what happens is i'll try starting the car, i know when it's going to happen because it will take longer for it to crank and turnover, and then it happens. it will start but will shake/sputter/misfire drop rpms and die...i have to forcefully give it gas from the pedal to keep it alive till it smooths out. all while the engine is shaking.. called my mechanic.. he thinks it might be the egr valve, not the egr port, but the egr valve itself. the egr port and egr valve opening are clean and not clogged.. could it be the valves? injectors? possible vacuum leak? fuel pump or fuel regulater? bringing it in to get scanned and looked at again in 2 days. already blew a ton of money on her. but i love this car. any suggestions? like i said, the hard starting and misfires never happen on a cold engine and only sometimes happen on a warm/hot engine if that helps.. other than that, car runs good.. it has some vibration , but it needs mounts.. so i'm guessing thats the reason for that..or maybe not because it vibrates the same amount in park, neutral, or drive..
this must be a common issue for our cars! To this day mine does the EXACT same thing! I have been dealing with this the last 3 months, car idles strong and perfect on an cold engine, but when restarted warm, it idles very low and will even sometimes stall if i dont tap the gas pedal, its annoying and it will eventually get worse if not fixed. I searched like crazy and no one had/has an exact solution to this issue, i will keep you posted if i find a fix, im doing some work on the car 2day. Btw my TL is a '99.
You have Heak Soak. The fuel pressure is too low by design from Acura 2000 TL. There's a TSB for the 2000 TL- Basically raise the fuel pressure by changing the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) and the ECM to go with it. The kit is around $1500-$2000. I have a work around - approximately $400.
2000 TL
Replace the FPR to a Black Dot FPR (new or use) and replace the ECM with a 2001 ECM (use - $100 or less) but the ECM needs to be reprogram to match your keys and remote by the dealership ($200-$300). The car will drive substantially better due to the higher fuel pressure.
Alternatively, you can just replace the FPR only with the Black Dot FPR but the car will idle rough when cold.
1999 TL
This is a four speed trans so the ECM is not an option but you can try replacing the FPR. I'm assuming the FPR are the same style, therefore are interchangeable... Black Dot FPR.
Please check the top of the FPR first before doing anything because it would be a moot point if you already have a Black Dot FPR.
You have Heak Soak. The fuel pressure is too low by design from Acura 2000 TL. There's a TSB for the 2000 TL- Basically raise the fuel pressure by changing the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) and the ECM to go with it. The kit is around $1500-$2000. I have a work around - approximately $400.
2000 TL
Replace the FPR to a Black Dot FPR (new or use) and replace the ECM with a 2001 ECM (use - $100 or less) but the ECM needs to be reprogram to match your keys and remote by the dealership ($200-$300). The car will drive substantially better due to the higher fuel pressure.
Alternatively, you can just replace the FPR only with the Black Dot FPR but the car will idle rough when cold.
1999 TL
This is a four speed trans so the ECM is not an option but you can try replacing the FPR. I'm assuming the FPR are the same style, therefore are interchangeable... Black Dot FPR.
Please check the top of the FPR first before doing anything because it would be a moot point if you already have a Black Dot FPR.
2000 TL ECM... Make sure you get the correct ECM. TL with Navigation or Non-navigation.
You have Heak Soak. The fuel pressure is too low by design from Acura 2000 TL. There's a TSB for the 2000 TL- Basically raise the fuel pressure by changing the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) and the ECM to go with it. The kit is around $1500-$2000. I have a work around - approximately $400.
2000 TL
Replace the FPR to a Black Dot FPR (new or use) and replace the ECM with a 2001 ECM (use - $100 or less) but the ECM needs to be reprogram to match your keys and remote by the dealership ($200-$300). The car will drive substantially better due to the higher fuel pressure.
Alternatively, you can just replace the FPR only with the Black Dot FPR but the car will idle rough when cold.
1999 TL
This is a four speed trans so the ECM is not an option but you can try replacing the FPR. I'm assuming the FPR are the same style, therefore are interchangeable... Black Dot FPR.
Please check the top of the FPR first before doing anything because it would be a moot point if you already have a Black Dot FPR.
Thanks alot for this answer! I will check the fpr asap, a couple of questions. So the black dot on the fpr is what i want right? Also where could i locate the fpr? Thanks alot and please get back to me.
Yes Black Dot FPR. IIRC, it's located just to the rear of the throttle body under the engine cover.
BTW, you probably should change the FPR first without the ECM to confirm conclusively that this is the fix for your problem. Relatively cheap and simple to change... half hour.
Yes Black Dot FPR. IIRC, it's located just to the rear of the throttle body under the engine cover.
BTW, you probably should change the FPR first without the ECM to confirm conclusively that this is the fix for your problem. Relatively cheap and simple to change... half hour.
Bad news... 1999 TL. Your FPR is under the intake manifold. You will probably need to remove that to get to the FPR. Look below and inboard of your throttle body and you might be able to see it or not.
this must be a common issue for our cars! To this day mine does the EXACT same thing! I have been dealing with this the last 3 months, car idles strong and perfect on an cold engine, but when restarted warm, it idles very low and will even sometimes stall if i dont tap the gas pedal, its annoying and it will eventually get worse if not fixed. I searched like crazy and no one had/has an exact solution to this issue, i will keep you posted if i find a fix, im doing some work on the car 2day. Btw my TL is a '99.
I came from a 2000 kia sephia 125hp with 108 lbs of torque to 225 hp with 216 lbs of torque so this car is like gold to me in speed, looks, etc. though it is 1000 lbs heavier.. anyways back to the subject yeah, it's very inconvenient but at least I know what the problem is now (heat soak) and it wont leave me stranded, well at least until it cools down. like i said, starts great on a cold start and only happens when engine/engine bay is still warm/hot and i try restarting it. and mind you, even that is intermittent and doesnt happen every time.. so basically to avoid this until i find a fix i dont turn my car off if i know i'll have to start it back up within 25 minutes. I'll just leave it running which i dont like to do. (but hey, if it's hot outside at least you know you'll be entering a nice and cool car assuming you left the ac on) btw, I only use 93 octane since i've owned the car. owned the car for about 6 months and i live in south florida. I'm going to fill up next with ethanol free gas and/or try 91 octane instead of my usual 93 and see if that helps too see if they have a higher boiling threshold. I've read of people insulating their fuel lines/rails, having the fans run for 15-20 minutes after they shut their car off, prime their fuel lines by turning key on amd off a few times before starting to fill the lines that are left empty with air from the vaporized fuel that the hot engine bay boiled away, upgrading to the higher (fpr) fuel pressure regulator (53 psi) which is standard from mid 2000 acura tl's on. it's a common problem and not just on acura/hondas. the engine bay temperatures rise after shutting the car off which boils and vaporizes the fuel in the lines/rails.. quick free fixes would include the following: leave car on if you plan on restarting it within 25 minutes.. or shut it off and pop the hood if you plan on restarting it within 10-15 minutes
how do you know the coils are good? It sounds like it could be a bad TPS.
because coils are either good or bad. there's no in-between.. for example: coils starting to go bad... and i dont have any misfire codes. i did the coil wire pull test while engine was running by pulling off the coil wire and each time i pulled coil wire off the coil 1-6 I heard and felt the misfire.. if i didnt hear or feel a difference, than that coil would of be bad..so i knew it wasnt the coils.. next was the plugs.. i had no idea how long ago the previous owner changed out the plugs so i did that not only to rule the plugs out but for that peace of mind of having new and the correct plugs for this car.. put in some ngk iridiums.. the old plugs were pretty beat up.. but at least they were ngk's.. misfire same day new plugs were installed because i was running around, turning car off and shortly restarting it.. didnt know about the heat soak problem at that time so i was like wtf.. next, i had the intake manifold removed and cleaned of carbon build of.. i did the top part of the intake myself a week prior putting in a new thin metal gasket after cleaning the passageways under the top plenum cover which were gunked up, and cleaning out the top 6 port holes which were pretty bad but not terrible, two were almost completely closed with carbon buildup etc.. brake cleaner, small flat head screwdriver, towel, and a vacuum does the trick for the cleaning.. i also cleaned the egr port when the cover was off.. the hole itself was actually free of carbon to my surprise but it did have buildup in the chamber around the egr port so i sprayed, scraped off, wiped off, vacuumed to prevent gunk from falling into intake since i wasnt removing it.. top part of intake was like brand new when i was done with it... but of course, that's only 1/4 of the damn intake...when they cleaned the two sides and bottom part of the intake they said it was really bad.. they removed the entire intake manifold to do that, replacing with new gaskets and said the only part that was clean was the top part, at which than i reminded them that i just cleaned that part.. anyways, so yeah, it wasnt the coils, lol
You have Heak Soak. The fuel pressure is too low by design from Acura 2000 TL. There's a TSB for the 2000 TL- Basically raise the fuel pressure by changing the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) and the ECM to go with it. The kit is around $1500-$2000. I have a work around - approximately $400.
2000 TL
Replace the FPR to a Black Dot FPR (new or use) and replace the ECM with a 2001 ECM (use - $100 or less) but the ECM needs to be reprogram to match your keys and remote by the dealership ($200-$300). The car will drive substantially better due to the higher fuel pressure.
Alternatively, you can just replace the FPR only with the Black Dot FPR but the car will idle rough when cold.
1999 TL
This is a four speed trans so the ECM is not an option but you can try replacing the FPR. I'm assuming the FPR are the same style, therefore are interchangeable... Black Dot FPR.
Please check the top of the FPR first before doing anything because it would be a moot point if you already have a Black Dot FPR.
Your correct 100% I have a heat soak issue and thank you. now that i know what the problem is i'm relieved..but how does a few more psi in the updated fpr help with heat soak exactly? especially if you can prime it before restart anyway to clear out air and deliver fuel to lines... i was getting false misfires on multliple cylinders because of this heat soak issue while starting car while hot and not giving it a chance to cool down.. and thats because fuel wasnt getting to the cylinders.. i'm not getting a new/junkyard 2001-2003 fpr or 2001-2003 ECU and then pay acura on top of that to program keys... there's other ways/options.. gotta be
yes it does... damn 99's first year of the 2nd generation.. not too say that the 2000 is any better but thank god i have a 2000.. lol, sorry. trust me if i had the $$$ i'd be in a 3rd gen acura tl
The higher the fuel pressure the higher the fuel's boiling point so it takes a higher temperature to vaporize the fuel in the fuel rail. When gas vapors are in the fuel rail the engine will run lean until the vapors are purge. The lean condition is what causes the hard to start problem. That's why it's hard to start after a short stop... AKA Heak Soak.
There may be other ways to stop Heak Soak like insulating the fuel rail but the FPR/ECM is the best way for the 2000 TL.
For a hot start problem I would look at the Main Relay first. Next time it happens give it a knock. It's up under the left side of the dash.
For multiple misfires I would replace all 6 ignition coils.
The higher the fuel pressure the higher the fuel's boiling point so it takes a higher temperature to vaporize the fuel in the fuel rail. When gas vapors are in the fuel rail the engine will run lean until the vapors are purge. The lean condition is what causes the hard to start problem. That's why it's hard to start after a short stop... AKA Heak Soak.
There may be other ways to stop Heak Soak like insulating the fuel rail but the FPR/ECM is the best way for the 2000 TL.
thank you for explaining that.. if it was as simple as just getting the higher FPR (53 psi) which were standard in later 2000 thru 2003 models i would do it. but to also have to get another new/used ecm and then have the dealership program the keys i'll pass. that is unless my ecm goes bad and than it would be a no brainer at that point..I'm honestly just happy to know what the problem is.. it was confusing/frustrating because it would cause misfires to multiple cylinders on hot starts and if they were bad enough it would give me a cel which would clear itself on it's own eventually.. like i said earlier, (if you drive long enough for it to get up to operating temps that is) either leave it running or turn it off and pop the hood if you plan on restarting it within 15-30 minutes after shutoff.. it's a timing thing...just know when and when not to turn your car off depending on the outside temp, car temp/length driven, and when you plan on restarting it again..smh
so do you think that will resolve the heat soak issue? if i knew for sure i would do it in a heartbeat. but dont you need the newer ecm for fuel mapping, etc the new higher powered fpr?.. i just dont wanna spend money on something (fpr) just to have it not fix the problem. or have to end up getting the ecm anyways just to be able to see the benefits.. also, my car idles rough at start up anyways.. once it warms up it eventually sits one notch below 1000 rpm's. but yeah, on startup it revs high. like 1200 rpm's or so until it warms up.. who knows, it could always be the main relay..
No, I don't think it will resolve your heat soak problem if you change your FPR to a Black Dot FPR. I know it will resolve your heat soak problem if you change your FPR to a Black Dot FPR. Only you will be able to determine if the rough idle will bother you enough to use only the FPR or not.
I've already stated multiple times that your original ECM will work with the Black Dot FPR. I cannot make it any clearer than what I've already posted. I'm not going to repeat what I've already posted anymore.
No, I don't think it will resolve your heat soak problem if you change your FPR to a Black Dot FPR. I know it will resolve your heat soak problem if you change your FPR to a Black Dot FPR. Only you will be able to determine if the rough idle will bother you enough to use only the FPR or not.
I've already stated multiple times that your original ECM will work with the Black Dot FPR. I cannot make it any clearer than what I've already posted. I'm not going to repeat what I've already posted anymore.
Check the following for your fast idle...
Air leak, air in the cooling system, IAC valve.
Thanks
Since these fprs are kinda expensive maybe I'll just grab a couple (to play it safe) from my local junkyard from years 2001-2003
it's a u-pull it yard and they always have a slew of these cars there.. i just checked and they have 5 tl's between years 2001-2003
they would probably charge no more than $8 for these
well, here's an update... 2 days ago i did my 3rd trans drain and fill in an 8 week period (finally got that nice red color on third time) only used honda dw1
removed vacuum hose from top of fpr regulator to increase psi to around 53 psi.. stock fpr on year 2000 was 44 psi which was not enough and created heat soak/acura announced it in a tsb/service bulletin) (this maximizes fuel pressure) but plug end of vacuum hose to avoid vacuum leak and high idle) i used a screw like most folks.. also take that damn plastic cover off (4 10mm screws)
yesterday i replaced the original belts (17 years old/74k miles).. got me some new daycos...(yes, i have very low miles)
let me tell you something, this thing ran like a beast tonight.. had to do a 40 minute cummute there and back was 80 miles total)
no heat soak, better acceleration.. this thing had some punch after changing to new belts and removing pfr hose and plugging it to maximize fuel pressure
just my experience is all... if anyone wants pics on anything let me know
thanks guys
FYI, plugging the FPR vacuum hose... My experience tell me your heat soak will return but I hope you're an exception.
Trans... Change the external trans filter if you haven't done so already.
i need to get this done asap to my 99, the issue is not as bad since its cooler outside, but i was parked inside my storage unit again today for about a hour and a half. The storage unit is temp controlled at 70 degrees, i had to keep my foot on the gas for 20 seconds to keep it from stalling! I hope for a fact the fpr will address this issue, i also have a p1457 evap leak, im gonna get everything done and pray iy fixes my heat soak issue.
i need to get this done asap to my 99, the issue is not as bad since its cooler outside, but i was parked inside my storage unit again today for about a hour and a half. The storage unit is temp controlled at 70 degrees, i had to keep my foot on the gas for 20 seconds to keep it from stalling! I hope for a fact the fpr will address this issue, i also have a p1457 evap leak, im gonna get everything done and pray iy fixes my heat soak issue.
Fix the DTC first. Replace the charcoal canister and the shut valve. There's a DIY here somewhere.
If you want to try plugging the FPR vacuum line, then try plugging it on the other side if possible. Maybe it's more accessible that way.
Replacement of the charcoal canister and shut valve is throwing parts at a possible heat soak symptoms car. When these parts are defective gas vapors are released back into the intake manifold are the wrong time and possibly flooding the car with too much gas.
FYI, plugging the FPR vacuum hose... My experience tell me your heat soak will return but I hope you're an exception.
Trans... Change the external trans filter if you haven't done so already.
your wrong....yes, i took off the vacuum line going into the fpr and pluged it with a screw... no more heat soak.. it maximizes fuel pressure to the fuel lines creating a higher boiling point to avoid heat soak... all that means is that i need to get the updated black dot fpr (2001-2003 years)
but for now i'm good...just plug a screw in to avoid vacuum leak/high idle.. so basicallly problem solved.. i was running around all weekend.. shutting off/starting (150 miles of driving) no starting problems... i'll get the updated fpr one day.. but for now, i'm good..
p.s. I don't have an external trans filter.. maybe those came with 02 and above... or the s-types,, i have a base model 2000 year and just did 3 drain and fills within 2 months and got that nice red color i was looking for..
i need to get this done asap to my 99, the issue is not as bad since its cooler outside, but i was parked inside my storage unit again today for about a hour and a half. The storage unit is temp controlled at 70 degrees, i had to keep my foot on the gas for 20 seconds to keep it from stalling! I hope for a fact the fpr will address this issue, i also have a p1457 evap leak, im gonna get everything done and pray iy fixes my heat soak issue.
get a fpr from 2001-2003 and problem solved.. or do what i did for a free fix... unplug vacuum hose from fpr and stick a screw in to plug it up.. problem solved.. u just maximized fuel pressure to or around 53psi which is what the updated fpr is.. also take that damn plastic cover off if u havent already to let it breathe better
get a fpr from 2001-2003 and problem solved.. or do what i did for a free fix... unplug vacuum hose from fpr and stick a screw in to plug it up.. problem solved.. u just maximized fuel pressure to or around 53psi which is what the updated fpr is.. also take that damn plastic cover off if u havent already to let it breathe better
i still have both of the covers on there, i will take them off in the am, i will also look into the 2001 fpr, thanks for the reply!
your wrong....yes, i took off the vacuum line going into the fpr and pluged it with a screw... no more heat soak.. it maximizes fuel pressure to the fuel lines creating a higher boiling point to avoid heat soak... all that means is that i need to get the updated black dot fpr (2001-2003 years)
but for now i'm good...just plug a screw in to avoid vacuum leak/high idle.. so basicallly problem solved.. i was running around all weekend.. shutting off/starting (150 miles of driving) no starting problems... i'll get the updated fpr one day.. but for now, i'm good..
p.s. I don't have an external trans filter.. maybe those came with 02 and above... or the s-types,, i have a base model 2000 year and just did 3 drain and fills within 2 months and got that nice red color i was looking for..
The 2000's and up does have an external tranny filter, im not saying ur lying at all, dont take it like that, but i know they do have and external filter.
The 2000's and up does have an external tranny filter, im not saying ur lying at all, dont take it like that, but i know they do have and external filter.
nope, you were right. i was wrong.. here's the part # 25450-P7W-003
i was told by mechanics that my car didnt have a tranny filter..in fact a couple of mechanics.
so i assumed they were right.. guess not
I just read this comment from someone on a you tube video:
The external filter was added on by Honda/Acura as a recall make shift fix..
so basically none of us were wrong.. some have it and some dont
here's the video:
I just checked under the hood and confirmed that I have one.. so does that mean my tranny was recalled and swapped out under warranty already since i have the upgrade external filter?
I'm going to make a new thread on this subject
01-05-2017, 12:09 AM
