nats007

Currently looking on car-part.com and found the following (all Part Grade A):

2006 Transmission $850
Honda AccordEX,3.0L,AT,TESTED-SHIFTS WELL
71,197 miles

2007 Transmission $950
Honda AccordAT, Sed (4 Dr), 3.0L (6 Cyl), non-Hybrid
77,000 miles

2006 Transmission $910
Honda Accord3.0,AUTO,FLR,FWD
78,770 miles


2006 Transmission $898
Honda Accord3.0L,AT,JRAP,FEB-2012
86,000 miles

RONE

Is there a difference between the 06 and 07 transmissions?

nats007

Should be the same from what I read in regards to supporting the swap You need to ensure it is the 3.0L auto V6 non-hybrid version though. The 2.4L will not work...

Crod818

Guys, riddle me this: are we double filtering now with the Accord tranny?

Accord Transmission.


CL Transmission.

Notice part numbers 11, 7, 22, 21, and 10 on the Accord transmission - is that not a filter? So are we just getting a new filter (part 10 from CL tranny) and screwing it into part 10 of Accord? My car is about to have an Accord transmission transplanted into it and I want to be absolutely sure that I break it down for these guys as best as possible. I don't want any mechanics freaking out 6 hours in. Thanks so much!!!

3.2TLc

It appears as though the Honda tranny utilizes an updated filter with the way the diagram shows that it's mounted to the tranny housing. This should be appropriate the way it is. There would be no real reason to attempt to screw the older style (#10) filter into the newer engineered Accord's tranny filter assembly. Check the corresponding part #'s on each of the trannys and compare the fittings to verify your concerns.

victus1

The external filter assembly from your old TL tranny should be removed and installed on the new Accord tranny. This is part of the swap procedure.
The other two items are the range selector and the small wire harness that connects to the 3 and 4 clutch pressure switches and the oil temp sensor.

sammy95

What they said... Go with the swap over rebuild. I got one rebuilt. I'm sure the parts were aftermarket (I don't know what companies) but it lasted me maybe 2-3 years putting 40k or so.
Got the 07 trans put 1000K plus already no real issues, but I think fuel economy went down. But I don't care. Haha

Swap the trans filter. It's easier to deal with when you do your drain/fills, and filter replacement.

TLer trash

I swapped the older filter and warmer setup so as not to confuse some some mechanic, owner, or parts guy when I no longer own the car.

acutee

Just so everyone is aware, original rpm is 2200rpm @ 80mph on TL-S.

JonnyB

Aloha guys just wondering if a 2000 accord v6 3.0 trans would work with my 2000 3.5 odyssey. Thx

Yikes

You don't want that transmission.

The fact is any 1998 - 2002 Accord transmission (Primarily V6s, but I4s, too) are just as unreliable as the Odyssey's transmission. Both had a super high rate of failure.

3.2TLc

Aloha JonnyB !!!

Yeah, as stated above.....what ya really want is a newer upgraded design tranny from an '06>'07 Accord V6 or newer Oddy.
Try checking out the "Oddy" forums as they will have more detailed info on what you're looking for. Good Luck !!!

aclaytonb

No idea if anyone else hit this issue - swapped in an 06 Accord tranny into a 2001 CL-S and had to switch ALL of the sensors because the plug-ins were different.

For whatever reason, it wasn't quite as plug and play as previously described. May have been a really early model Accord transmission but I don't really now. Car runs fine now and shifts a heck of a lot better than it did before. Had 140k on the original transmission and it was destroying tranny fluid in 10k miles.

Thanks for the swap info. Worked great.

victus1

Do you mean that you had to remove the sensors from the old tranny and install them on the Accord tranny and then plug them into the harness? You are supposed to swap the harness on the tranny....and that will plug into the engine harness. Or maybe I misunderstood your issue...

aclaytonb

Harness wasn't the same. Still don't know what was up. Might have been screwed up at the parts yard or might just be my own stupidity. Doesn't really matter I guess. The old sensors work just fine and it works fine through all gears.

03blackbeast

Is there anyone in the Indy area that's done this swap? I'm seriously considering it since my tranny just went out after 270K... How does one go about deleting the power steering hookup? I'm kind of hazy on this

sammy95

Replacement is the same as if you put another trans in it. But as they mention, the only difference is you reuse your external oil filter set up, wiring (since the new trans wiring connectors will not fit) and maybe the plate/cover for the range switch.

As for the p/s delete, you just disconnect the oil lines to the sensor, then use one of the hoses to loop the hydraulics coming from the rack.

Questions?
Did that help?

M3rl3n

Hey All,

Well, while you all enjoying turkey and family this weekend, guess what I'm doing?!

I have sourced a 06 Accord tranny with 73k on it, for $850. When I went to look at it it was in great shape. The car that it was in had passenger front impact and the records showed it came into the yard just a couple of months ago. The yard did a great job pulling it leaving more than enough of the wiring in case I need to borrow anything.

I have service manuals being delivered tomorrow, the '06 tranny is in my garage (may have to figure out some more heat) and I have most standard mechanics tools. I've rebuilt a number of cars, with the newest one being a 1969 Dodge Coronet Super Bee!!! There are a number of years of difference between those cars which has me a little worried, but I LOVE my '02 TL-S when it's running good.

I have read through the treads and all but I have a couple of things that I would like to clear up.

This 3x3 - what the heck is that?! I think it refers to draining 3 quarts of tranny fluid, adding three quarts, three times? Do you drive the vehicle between each of the refills?

Since I'm in there I'm going to replace the rear main seal. I've seen pictures of it, so is it just a matter of pulling out the seal (best method?) and then pressing in the new one? All done with finger pressure?

I will be getting new 3rd & 4th gear pressure switches, new Honda ATF, the '06 filter, the heater/ cooler gasket (and o-rings I think I saw mentioned somewhere) and just in case and while there, I was thinking new transmission mounts too?

Any comments to the above?

Also a couple of procedural questions:
When pulling the axles, any special tools needed, or just a pry of some sort to get it popped past the retention ring?

Just leave the front suspension hanging on the driver's side or is it better to pull it to get it out of the way?

Recommended to remove any body parts?

Drop the tranny, or pull from the top?

Use the starter from the TL-S?

Any other thoughts that you could impart that will make my experience smooth?

Thanks!!!

MBP 03

3x3 refers to draining 3 quarts of fluid and refilling 3 times. This is about what comes out of the transmission when you take out the drain plug. The junkyard should have drained the fluid before pulling the trans and they should have also drained the torque converter. You can slide the torque converter off the transmission input shaft to make sure that it's empty. After you install the transmission and fill it, you will have mostly all new fluid in there, so there is no need to do a 3x3 right away. You can replace 3 quarts one time after you put a few miles on the transmission just to freshen up the fluid a bit more.

I removed my rear main seal by drilling a small hole in it and driving a screw into it and then pulling with a pair of pliers. I tapped the new one in with a flat piece of metal stock to make sure that it went in evenly.

It's a good idea to replace the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches. You need to get a new spin on filter for the TL transmission since you will be swapping over that entire assembly to the AV6 transmission. You might as well change the gasket and o-rings while you're there. New transmission mounts are also a good idea. You might as well think about changing the axle seals, input shaft seal, and torque converter o-ring since everything will be right there in front of you.

The axles get pried out with a pry bar.

You will need to take off the strut forks in order to free up the lower control arms and to remove the radius rod bolts before separating the lower ball joints from the knuckles. The strut assembly can stay in place, but at that point, it comes out in a couple of minutes if you want the extra room.

No body parts need to be removed, but you will need to remove the splash shield and front sub-frame since the transmission comes out from underneath. The transmission is heavy and you will need a transmission jack under it.

The TL-S starter transfers over.

Once you have the two transmissions side by side, you will see exactly what needs to be swapped from the TL transmission. If you take your time and follow the shop manual, it's not a terribly difficult job if you have experience working on cars.

Good luck!

M3rl3n

Hey Guys,

Quick request for help here.

I have the two transmissions sitting side by side ready to do the transfer of parts.

Earlier in the thread it was mentioned that the wire harness between the 3rd & 4th pressure switches needs to be swapped. This sounds like it's assuming that the wire harness for the accord transmission is used instead of the harness for the TL-S. I left all of the wiring in car and thought I just reused that?

So the questions are. Use the wiring harness on from the TL for the accord transmission? or Use the harness for the Accord transmission (kinda torn up not sure if it IS usable), swapping the 3rd & 4th pressure switches.

Since this is where I am right now a quick response would be much appreciated.

Dan

M3rl3n

Ok.... look before asking the question.

Use the main harness from the TL-S and swap from the TL transmission to the Accord transmission the small harness for the 3rd & 4th pressure switches just like everyone has said.

DANG second guessing myself.


Dan

victus1

Yes, just reuse your original TL harness on the AV6. But I don't think you can use the TL pressure switches as the part numbers are different. You can easily verify this by going to a dealer online part site and checking out the part numbers for the TL and Accord pressure switches.

MBP 03

Here is some info from another thread on the pressure switches:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/110-diy-guide-replacing-3rd-4th-gear-pressure-switch-3g-tl-2004-2006-a-729149/

Right now, I'm running the TL pressure switches in the AV6 transmission because they were virtually brand new when my transmission died. The AV6 switches had about 20K miles on them and I kept them as spares. The AV6 transmission seems to shift the same with both types of switches, although I've also wondered if the AV6 switches may not have been redesigned for reliability or other reasons.

3.2TLc

Hey MBP03, thanks for this good info on our tranny's pressure switches.

While this thread was in the 3rd Gen forum ......
~ https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=729149 ~

The switch's location and replacement procedure should be the same as in our 2nd Gens / AV6 Honda tranny. Good stuff to know !!!

TJP_AccordV6

found these pressure sensor's on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190772518362...84.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190772518344...84.m1423.l2649

worth buying it? Part numbers are correct.

victus1

Those are critical parts for the tranny. Make sure you trust the seller and getting exactly what is described. There are online dealers that have them for around the same price.

M3rl3n

Hey Guys - Well, the good news is that after also replacing the lower ball joint due to a torn boot, and getting a black eye from a impact socket hitting the rim of my safety glasses , pinching my eyelid between them and my skull... everything is back together!! That was quite the adventure. Especially doing it all by myself. While it can be done, I think for pure enjoyment and in the interest of speed, another person helping out would be a good thing.

Now, I do have a question. After double and triple checking all of the connections and filling the transmission with fluid (I was overly paranoid that I would forget to do that), the starter will not turn the engine over!!! Everything lights up like normal, but when I go from the "ON" position to the "START", nothing. I'm thinking that there may be a mismatch in what the range selector is reporting and the position that the gear selector is in. Would that be a correct thought? When I turn the key to the "ON" position, I do get the "P" lit up like normal and that is the position that the gear selector is in, but I also get the "D5" lit up for a few seconds. Igoes out after about 4 - 5 seconds.

Any thoughts? Ideas?

Thanks,
Dan

3.2TLc

Did ya swap the tranny range selector switch ?
Perhaps gear position switch needs adjusted or the connector is not fitting properly ?

Does it start in neutral or by over riding the shift interlock solenoid ?

M3rl3n

I did swap the range selector switch... I think the accord's has a different connector? I'll double check the connection, but I think it might be more of an adjustment issue. I'll also pull the shift cable housing back off and make sure it's in the right position.

I couldn't get the gear shift to move to neutral due to the interlock, it wouldn't let me move it out of park... but I think that is a step today also, to over ride the shift interlock solenoid.

I'll start with verifying the connection and adjustment.

M3rl3n

IT'S DONE!!! AND IT ROLLS DOWN THE STREET UNDER ITS OWN POWER!!! IT GOES REALLY WELL!!!!

So the problem was the range selector switch. It's the first thing I checked and adjusted. First I expanded the "post" coming out of the transmission to ensure that it was rotating the switch correctly. I guessed at the adjustment, hopped in the car and it started right up. I went through the range of all of the gears and the indicator in the dash tracked perfectly. I went through stopping at each gear setting 3 times as recommended by the manual.

So... what all did I accomplish:
New brake pads (on the front so far)
New lower ball joints (Moog)
New spark plugs
Fresh engine oil & filter
New rear main seal

My thoughts on the swap:
1) There are two hoist loops on both transmissions - the back one is quite low on the back side of the transmission. I didn't know it was there until I had the transmission out.

2) If you do it yourself, do have a transmission jack, engine hoist and an engine support bar and the proper size bolts to screw into the engine block for the engine support. Eye protection (see #3).

3) After making it past the most dangerous point of lifting in the new transmission into place and making sure the bolts are all tightened down, make sure that if you are using a impact socket on your torque wrench (because it was handy) that it fits on the extension tightly. I was underneath tightening the last bolt and after getting it torqued, when I pulled off the wrench the socket stuck a little and then fell, hitting the frame of my safety glasses pinching my eyelid between the frame and the eyebrow portion of my skull giving me a nice black eye.

4) When transferring stuff from the TL-S transmission to the AV6:
4a) when dealing with the 3rd & 4th pressure switches. Transfer the switches from the TL-S tranny to the AV6 tranny along with the small cable setup from the TL-S. Better yet, install new switches, just make sure to order new 3rd & 4th pressure switches for the TL-S transmission. There is a wire that goes down to the bottom of the AV6. LEAVE IT THERE. I was confused for a little while, didn't check what exactly that was & thought that I had to swap that also. It is the transmission temp sensor. It can stay. However, if you want to drain more fluid from the transmission, go ahead and pull it, then put it back. Just remember to have a pan under it and that you will have to add more fluid than just 3.5 quarts. Luckily, I had quick dry close at hand.

4b) Swap the front hoist loop.

4c) Swap EVERYTHING that is hooked to the oil heater / cooler. The fluid fill cap that is solid on the AV6 will be replaced with the cap that has a hole in it & trust me, when filling with fluid it is nice to just pull the return loop hose than to take that whole cap off. Make sure to NOT shorten up that hose, just leave it where it is, then it is easier to pull out for filling.

5) Tools & reference
5a) Get the manuals from Helm
5b) If you are careful, there are certain tools that are very good (and a whole heck of a lot cheaper) at Harbor Freight:

Ball Joint Separator http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html - just like the Honda tool

Engine Support: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html - you just have to be creative in using it, or get two so you can use it like the Honda tool.

6) you will lose radiator fluid, have some on hand to replace before running the engine too much.

That's about all I can think of right now. It took me a while, a full Friday, Saturday, Sunday, 4 evenings of a couple of hours and then 4 hours yesterday to fix the range switch adjustment, change the engine oil, filter, plugs, filling and checking fluids, but I also did do it by myself. If you have help it will go much faster.

victus1

Great job and thanks for the updates!

The typical issues reported after the AV6 install are:

1) the range selector switch adjustment, and
2) some harness connectors not fully seated to make proper electrical contact

Keeping these issues in mind will make a smooth install.

3.2TLc

Yeah, it's always the smaller overlooked stuff that will kick ya every time.

>>> Thanks to M3rl3n for taking the time to follow up with the details of minor problems which came up during the "AV6" tranny replacement and what was done to resolve them. This is the kinda stuff that really helps others !!!

P.S. : Put a steak on that black eye, then grille it to have with a couple cold ones.

M3rl3n

I'm at about 200 miles now since the swap and all is well. I've pushed it hard at times just to make sure. I've taken it out on the interstate now a couple of times too. I don't REALLY notice the gearing difference. At 70, I'm turning about 2100 - 2200 RPMs... I really think that's close to what I was going at. I also may be watching too closely, but when going through town, I've noticed that most of the time, even at 25 mph, that the transmission is up into 4th gear already. I still have power that I need etc, it's just that I always thought that the TL transmission stayed in 3rd. About the only other thing that I have noticed with the new transmission is that going from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 seems to take fractionally longer on the new tranny.


I've thought about grabbing the manual, sitting down and building a step by step procedure with comments about what I might have done differently etc. Maybe if I get REALLY bored one day (like the Packers don't make the playoffs - looking pretty likely) or someone REALLY wants it, I'll do it. Other than that, if you have questions, post them here.

MBP 03

You're not going to notice any gearing difference because the AV6 transmission has the same gear ratios as the TL-S transmission.

The TL-P owners get a little performance upgrade from doing the swap because the 4th and 5th gears are a little shorter in the AV6 compared to the TL-P transmission.

BigBootyJudy99

I just started having problems with my 99 tl tranny. it jerks sometimes when i let off the gas at higher speeds and it will slip in nuetral, also hard shifting from 1st to 2nd

any suggestions!! please help!!

Memphlow

Well after lurking for awhile my research intensified about 2 weeks ago when my transmission took a crap on me. Came upon this thread regarding the AV6 and the rest is history. I found a transmission locally on Car-Parts.com with 86,000 miles for $750 the salvage yard installed it for an additional and offered and additional 6 month unlimited mileage warranty as an incentive for letting them install it. Total out of pocket was $1300 including the remain seal. I just got my car back today and it shifts like a knife through butter. Thanks you to all of you for your contributions. I will keep everyone posted.

dannyacuracl

so its almost a year since i swapped the tranny on my acura cl type s with an 07 accord tranny, and all i can say is that its still driving like new and shifts like butter ( i also redlined it a couple of times to make sure it works to its full potential, without breaking down) !! i put in like 5000 miles and still havent changed and flush the tranny fluid from when i first installed it, but i should get to it and not wait !! and ive used the castrol/import multi vehicle automatic tranny fluid from autozone ! not sure whether to go to its original honda tranny fluid or stick with the castrol/import tranny fluid since i dont want to mix the fluids..

just keeping y'all posted with how well the accord tranny still lives !

3.2TLc

Hey guys, thanks for following up with all the successful AV6 replacements for our old ailing original trannys. Great stuff to pass along for those who are unsure of the compatibility and durability of this swap. Long live the Hondamatic Acura !!!

4Door

my tranny went out December 10th about 400 miles away from home...

i was considering a 6speed swap but i think i will go with the 07' Accord trans and call it a day...

thank you for such a thorough info thread...

3.2TLc

Yeah, the AV6 is a much simplier and cheaper option than the 6 speed stick.
But, if ya can DIY and wanna hang onto the car, a stick would be awesome !