Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

So i once believed the strange and annoying rusty creak noise was my bad shocks. That all changed when i replaced my suspension with megan coilovers. Now, my car keeps making that creaking noise when im braking or when im going through different bumps and elevations. I thought it could be my control arms and/or my bushings. The shop mechanic said that amazingly, they were just fine. We did see my car's undercarriage bolts were kinda rusty though. I put some wd40 on some if not all of them, and still i sound like a rusty pogo stick. Any thoughts? :/

01tl4tl

spray silicone lube on all the rubber bushings you can find
ck the sway bar end mounts for breakage- MOOG brand are good replacements for those
lowered cars tend to break those kinds of parts

01tl4tl

ck brakes for backing plate contact to rotor from bent plate, brake slider pins in calipers are lubed good? all brake hardware clean and lubed, all parts back on with correct torque, calipers move correctly when in place?

Brake fluid flush was done in this order???
Left front= driver front, then clockwise around the car. LF RF RR LR

The other day a weird noise was found to be owner left the lug nuts loose after shock change!!!

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

That noise was already present before i lowered my car. And im not sure about fluid change patterns either. U got me there on a lot of stuff. Ill have to check it this week.

01tl4tl

another thread has post about an option to moog parts- seem better and a few dollars less

pogo stick- thinking its got to be suspension bushing related (probably wrong~)
the sway bars have end link and center bushings, control arms have rubber parts-
did the tech really look with a flashlight for damaged- worn rubber or just wiggle the wheels and say its ok?

try an alignment shop- where you need to go after drop anyway!
they know what to look for

01tl4tl

even though your guy said ok:
front upper control arm- driver side in particular, seem to go out and thump thump over every little bump

A certain Wife (definitely NOT mine for the purposes of this story) was very happy a noise she reported turned out to be an actual problem

not like the time the Maintenance light came on..... so she stopped on the freeway TO CALL AT MIDNIGHT ~

ErickUa5

Is it something like this ? I also hear this over bumps and replaced one of the stabilizer links and it went away on one side.

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

Ive had my driver side stabalizer link replaced already. Its a different noise. The stabalizer noise is luke loud metal clacking together. My current problem sounds like rusty trunk hinges creaking everytime i brake or go over bumps at a certain speed, just at shorter, more deeper pitch noises.Thats the closest i can think of as far as description.

ErickUa5

Front upper or lower Ball joints would be my guess.

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

Are those expensive? And do those parts being faulty or worn out affect the shock absorbency of my coilovers?

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

You know, now is when i finally hear the sound clip in this vid properly and it just might be this noise. If it were a more consistent squeaky creak then id say thats my noise. For some reason i just feel like its different than my drivers side sway bar link noise before replacement.

01tl4tl

what brand and type links did you use? was correct grease applied?

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

Well, i took the link to the shop where they dropped my car n rolled my fenders. Idk if they even used grease tbh. :/

Skirmich

Anything suspension wise will take a toll when you drop a car. Specially Ball Joints and A-Arm/Lower Arm Bushings. Expect them all to wear out faster. It get worse by the amount of drop.

Why? well because Ball Joints for example like to ride in a certain angle, When you drop the car the Ball Joints gets into a different angle position that weren't designed to ride on 24/7.

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

So with a drop like mine how often would i need to replace? Or are there other mods to improve the wear and tear of being lowered?

01tl4tl

nope! replace when worn out!!
watch tire wear if camber exceeds negative 1 degree

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

Yikes. And thank you sir ^ ill have to look at my alignment specs. I think my cambers should be alright for the time being

KatabaticSaint

I just ignore the noise.

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

Ive tried that too, its too loud and makes my car feel n look ratchet. Not the look im going for here lol

01tl4tl

mine is doing a similar rusty noise and I know the LF upper control arm is bad and now something else is likely to have followed its failure
Mine sounds like brakes involved, but all is well... was well last time I looked,,,,hmmm sounds like tires are coming off this weekend!

Yes that part will affect your suspension, shock is not staying where it belongs

side question: are you running a lower frame front cross bar?
that gives the front suspension a stable place in space and time to do its work= without the massive flex of a Budweiser can that is the stock feeling

01tl4tl

based on your pic I am hard pressed to believe that neg camber is below 1.5 degrees

slammed cars reach 2, basic lowered to tein recommened is neg 1.1 and neg 1.4 on my TL

IMO that's the cutoff for rear camber kits = neg 1.5 and drop the $75
- the cheaper of the set to install and will correct to zero

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

I'm just running Megan's, everything else is stock :/

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

As far as camber goes, my fronts were at -1.6° and my rears were at- 2.8° n -2.3°. My caster is fucked up so treats te difference in cambers. This ifs the report off My alignment. I dropped the front to 1 and 3/8s myself afterward

01tl4tl

Are you on lower springs and stock shocks, or complete new struts and lowering springs?

why is your caster wrong? that's usually a bent part- control arm? since its not an adjustable spec

front and rear -stock- we can only adjust toe, without aftermarket camber kits.
Camber is a result of spring height
which -depending on shock maker- you can change to adjust the cars angle, height and reduce some camber

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

Bone stock except megan ez coilovers. N my car is rebuilt from a crash, So i was told readjusting my frame my pulling it, it will fix the caster.

01tl4tl

ok so you have a BENT frame that will cause way more tire wear than the drop

something is binding- have a close look at swaybars and control arms for shiny spot of metal to metal contact

Once had a car where sway bar was mounted slightly off center, funky thunk over bumps dealer could never figure out--till one day we saw the shiny!!

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

Yep. My car is a Trooper. ^_^ and I'll see if i get that all checked out today at the muffler shop when the lift the car.

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

Update on the supposed whereabouts of this annoying creak. According to the shop where i do my work at, the creak is coming from my caliper on the rear passenger side. Their explanation is that either my caliper is bad and not gripping right on my rotors, that my rotors are bad and that that is why my brakes(which i got all four replaced literally 3-5 months ago) are all spent and worn out,and I was also told it could even be the cylinder within my caliper that doesnt grip how it should. So in other words, im fucked and confused.hence, fucking confused -_- any suggestions guys? I just wanna know if such a thing is possible or if theyre just hustling me

3.2TLc

Better check out the brakes for yourself, if they're spent and worn out after a few months.

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

They are. Front and rear. I got them both done the same day

3.2TLc

^^^ What all was replaced ? Bad calipers ???

Xxb005txx

iTrader: (1)

Nope, i had replaced the brakes alone. Imma have to replace everything now

3.2TLc

Get a complete package deal on the brake components. Check our site's vendors or places like Rockauto for good deals. If you're into "DIY", there's plenty of helpful threads on replacing the brake stuff. Not really all that difficult, especially when doing everything at the same time.