03 tl-p shaky start up?!
10-24-2014, 01:08 PM
#1
03 tl-p shaky start up?!
This mornng i just came outside, went to move my car to the drive way to work n the spark plugs, next thing i know its shaking really bad on just idle. I managed to get it onto the driveway. But it just died out and turned off. I have no check engine light on and no maintainance required light. I just tried to turn it on again and the hravy shaking is gone and my car remains on. Is this a sign for bad plugs? If so im changing them today asap! Help anyone?!
10-24-2014, 05:14 PM
#5
Nope. My dash lights worked, my radio was on, no check engine light and no maintainance required either, after a while it just went away. I just dont like the sight of that, i popped the hood open and my battery is fine. Belts seemed fine.i dont think i have a vac leak. And how can i check this valve? Does me not having replaced the engine air and cabin air filters since i got the car with 140xxx miles?
10-24-2014, 06:56 PM
#6
Check for any stored codes. Have the electrical system load tested.
Make sure all of the wiring connections and vacuum hoses are secure.
Consider cleaning the TB intake and EGR passageways. Put some fuel system cleaner in the gas.
Make sure all of the wiring connections and vacuum hoses are secure.
Consider cleaning the TB intake and EGR passageways. Put some fuel system cleaner in the gas.
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10-24-2014, 08:02 PM
#8
If it was just a quick anomaly and is running ok now, it may be possible a small particle clogged a fuel injector for a minute, never know. I have had this occur a couple times in the past.
10-24-2014, 08:08 PM
#9
clogged pcv 10 bucks - 20 at dealer for better part
Remove spark plug and ck age- probably needs new, every 70kmiles or so
use correct NGK
the throttle body contains the IAC idle air control inside -access on bottom
you need to remove the intake manifold to clean egr passages and TB is attached to manifold = get to work on it on the bench
its just bolts- 3 cans carb cleaner and wire coat hanger, a few hours diy labor
Do go to parts store for electrical test
Did you seafoam twice?
Remove spark plug and ck age- probably needs new, every 70kmiles or so
use correct NGK
the throttle body contains the IAC idle air control inside -access on bottom
you need to remove the intake manifold to clean egr passages and TB is attached to manifold = get to work on it on the bench
its just bolts- 3 cans carb cleaner and wire coat hanger, a few hours diy labor
Do go to parts store for electrical test
Did you seafoam twice?
10-24-2014, 08:11 PM
#10
the Mait Req light is not related to any codes-
its simply a counter of miles since reset using the 2 trip meter buttons-
around 6500-7000 miles it starts blinking at startup, about 7500 is goes on and stays on = time for an oil change
its simply a counter of miles since reset using the 2 trip meter buttons-
around 6500-7000 miles it starts blinking at startup, about 7500 is goes on and stays on = time for an oil change
10-24-2014, 10:33 PM
#11
clogged pcv 10 bucks - 20 at dealer for better part
Remove spark plug and ck age- probably needs new, every 70kmiles or so
use correct NGK
the throttle body contains the IAC idle air control inside -access on bottom
you need to remove the intake manifold to clean egr passages and TB is attached to manifold = get to work on it on the bench
its just bolts- 3 cans carb cleaner and wire coat hanger, a few hours diy labor
Do go to parts store for electrical test
Did you seafoam twice?
Remove spark plug and ck age- probably needs new, every 70kmiles or so
use correct NGK
the throttle body contains the IAC idle air control inside -access on bottom
you need to remove the intake manifold to clean egr passages and TB is attached to manifold = get to work on it on the bench
its just bolts- 3 cans carb cleaner and wire coat hanger, a few hours diy labor
Do go to parts store for electrical test
Did you seafoam twice?
10-27-2014, 09:47 PM
#12
seafoam and smoke- its all about HEAT in the CAT reacting to oils in seafoam = SMOKE
Those who do not do a 2000rpm blaster set thru master vac port at TB, get little to no smoke
Blaster method vac port 2000 rpm= stand upwind while you work!! ck that downwind fog bank you create wont obscure freeway etc
Low heat in cat during after drive- via vac port = no smoke
Used in fuel tank = no smoke ever!
its not an indicator of how dirty things were or how well it worked-
just heat and oil = physics
Those who do not do a 2000rpm blaster set thru master vac port at TB, get little to no smoke
Blaster method vac port 2000 rpm= stand upwind while you work!! ck that downwind fog bank you create wont obscure freeway etc
Low heat in cat during after drive- via vac port = no smoke
Used in fuel tank = no smoke ever!
its not an indicator of how dirty things were or how well it worked-
just heat and oil = physics
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 10-27-2014 at 09:52 PM.
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