F-005: RL Top Display (climate control/clock/radio) display flickering..help!!
04-15-2012, 02:27 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
F-005: RL Top Display (climate control/clock/radio) display flickering..help!!
Hi All,
My top display in the RL is flickering at every bump in the road. By top display, I mean the one on top of the dash- for the climate control temp, radio, and clock displays. At times it will go nearly dark and I have to give it a nice whack to get it come on again. It seems like there is a loose connection somewhere.
Does anyone a) know what the issue is and/or b) know how to remove that top display/center channel speaker?
Thanks for the help!
My top display in the RL is flickering at every bump in the road. By top display, I mean the one on top of the dash- for the climate control temp, radio, and clock displays. At times it will go nearly dark and I have to give it a nice whack to get it come on again. It seems like there is a loose connection somewhere.
Does anyone a) know what the issue is and/or b) know how to remove that top display/center channel speaker?
Thanks for the help!
Popular Reply
04-16-2012, 06:44 AM
I had the same problem and here is my solution:
The center channel speaker unit just pulls straight up on 4 clips, they are push fit and pushing up at the display will release the 2 facing you and you can get to the other 2 very easily by pulling the whole unit up. Once released, there are two connectors that need to be disconnected, one is for the display and the other one is for the speaker. Now you can take the unit to the bench and you will see a few plastic clips and/or screws that hold the display together. Now you need to disassemble the display so that the pc board is free. On the PC board you may see some corrosion or some dryed solution, the solution is usually from the bath in manufacture that dissolves the flux used in soldering. The soldering assembly is not very good on this unit and you will have to inspect with a magnifying glass all of the solder points for what is called a "dry joint". It is frequently easier to touch each soldering point with a soldering iron to get "flow". You may need to use a little solder on each point but make sure the solder flows. If you do not have any flux cleaner then iso-alcohol will work to clean the board after soldering.
If you do not feel profficient at soldering then you should find somebody that is to help you as one mistake could destroy the board and I think that I got quoted over $250. It's been a long time since I fixed mine but the problem never came back.
If you need any more details let me know and I will try to help.
Obviously check that the 2 connectors are mated correctly before attempting the above. If they are loose, which I doubt, then just reseat them. I would not bother with the fuse routine because fuses are binary: they either have continuity or they don't, I.E. they either allow current to flow or they don't.
The other test would be to pull the unit up at the display and see if you can "flex" or twist the unit with your hands to see if it blanks the screen or not. If the flexing creates the intermittent issue then I propose the dry joint solution.
The center channel speaker unit just pulls straight up on 4 clips, they are push fit and pushing up at the display will release the 2 facing you and you can get to the other 2 very easily by pulling the whole unit up. Once released, there are two connectors that need to be disconnected, one is for the display and the other one is for the speaker. Now you can take the unit to the bench and you will see a few plastic clips and/or screws that hold the display together. Now you need to disassemble the display so that the pc board is free. On the PC board you may see some corrosion or some dryed solution, the solution is usually from the bath in manufacture that dissolves the flux used in soldering. The soldering assembly is not very good on this unit and you will have to inspect with a magnifying glass all of the solder points for what is called a "dry joint". It is frequently easier to touch each soldering point with a soldering iron to get "flow". You may need to use a little solder on each point but make sure the solder flows. If you do not have any flux cleaner then iso-alcohol will work to clean the board after soldering.
If you do not feel profficient at soldering then you should find somebody that is to help you as one mistake could destroy the board and I think that I got quoted over $250. It's been a long time since I fixed mine but the problem never came back.
If you need any more details let me know and I will try to help.
Obviously check that the 2 connectors are mated correctly before attempting the above. If they are loose, which I doubt, then just reseat them. I would not bother with the fuse routine because fuses are binary: they either have continuity or they don't, I.E. they either allow current to flow or they don't.
The other test would be to pull the unit up at the display and see if you can "flex" or twist the unit with your hands to see if it blanks the screen or not. If the flexing creates the intermittent issue then I propose the dry joint solution.
04-15-2012, 10:34 AM
#2
Senior Moderator
Check the fuse first. Although it would not likely correlate to your whacking, it would correlate to the bumps.
For removal instructions, check out the service manual in the garage.
For removal instructions, check out the service manual in the garage.
04-15-2012, 12:05 PM
#4
04-15-2012, 01:42 PM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
I'm living in Seattle, Washington now. The roads aren't great, but it's not harsh impacts I'm talking about. Just the general movement of the car will cause the display to go nuts. And it's driving me crazy.
04-15-2012, 03:04 PM
#6
Racer
Well we know it's a loose connection either inside or outside the unit. I imagine getting to it is a nightmare. If you get there, you might as well replace it. Find one used or new? It might not be that expensive since it's so simple. If you're lucky it will have one harness on it and the problem might be there.check out the service manual, is there a diagram of the wiring harnesses?
04-15-2012, 08:23 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Well we know it's a loose connection either inside or outside the unit. I imagine getting to it is a nightmare. If you get there, you might as well replace it. Find one used or new? It might not be that expensive since it's so simple. If you're lucky it will have one harness on it and the problem might be there.check out the service manual, is there a diagram of the wiring harnesses?
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04-15-2012, 09:19 PM
#8
Senior Moderator
I will look through the service manual in the garage tomorrow, but my guess is that it is as easy a popping up the cover over the center speaker.
04-16-2012, 06:44 AM
#9
I had the same problem and here is my solution:
The center channel speaker unit just pulls straight up on 4 clips, they are push fit and pushing up at the display will release the 2 facing you and you can get to the other 2 very easily by pulling the whole unit up. Once released, there are two connectors that need to be disconnected, one is for the display and the other one is for the speaker. Now you can take the unit to the bench and you will see a few plastic clips and/or screws that hold the display together. Now you need to disassemble the display so that the pc board is free. On the PC board you may see some corrosion or some dryed solution, the solution is usually from the bath in manufacture that dissolves the flux used in soldering. The soldering assembly is not very good on this unit and you will have to inspect with a magnifying glass all of the solder points for what is called a "dry joint". It is frequently easier to touch each soldering point with a soldering iron to get "flow". You may need to use a little solder on each point but make sure the solder flows. If you do not have any flux cleaner then iso-alcohol will work to clean the board after soldering.
If you do not feel profficient at soldering then you should find somebody that is to help you as one mistake could destroy the board and I think that I got quoted over $250. It's been a long time since I fixed mine but the problem never came back.
If you need any more details let me know and I will try to help.
Obviously check that the 2 connectors are mated correctly before attempting the above. If they are loose, which I doubt, then just reseat them. I would not bother with the fuse routine because fuses are binary: they either have continuity or they don't, I.E. they either allow current to flow or they don't.
The other test would be to pull the unit up at the display and see if you can "flex" or twist the unit with your hands to see if it blanks the screen or not. If the flexing creates the intermittent issue then I propose the dry joint solution.
The center channel speaker unit just pulls straight up on 4 clips, they are push fit and pushing up at the display will release the 2 facing you and you can get to the other 2 very easily by pulling the whole unit up. Once released, there are two connectors that need to be disconnected, one is for the display and the other one is for the speaker. Now you can take the unit to the bench and you will see a few plastic clips and/or screws that hold the display together. Now you need to disassemble the display so that the pc board is free. On the PC board you may see some corrosion or some dryed solution, the solution is usually from the bath in manufacture that dissolves the flux used in soldering. The soldering assembly is not very good on this unit and you will have to inspect with a magnifying glass all of the solder points for what is called a "dry joint". It is frequently easier to touch each soldering point with a soldering iron to get "flow". You may need to use a little solder on each point but make sure the solder flows. If you do not have any flux cleaner then iso-alcohol will work to clean the board after soldering.
If you do not feel profficient at soldering then you should find somebody that is to help you as one mistake could destroy the board and I think that I got quoted over $250. It's been a long time since I fixed mine but the problem never came back.
If you need any more details let me know and I will try to help.
Obviously check that the 2 connectors are mated correctly before attempting the above. If they are loose, which I doubt, then just reseat them. I would not bother with the fuse routine because fuses are binary: they either have continuity or they don't, I.E. they either allow current to flow or they don't.
The other test would be to pull the unit up at the display and see if you can "flex" or twist the unit with your hands to see if it blanks the screen or not. If the flexing creates the intermittent issue then I propose the dry joint solution.
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04-16-2012, 07:34 AM
#10
Racer
Great write up. With all the expensive displays on this thing and other complicated systems, I would not complain about replacing this unit even at $250! Can't our radios and other things be sent off of repair? Because $2300 is steep for a new radio. Changers often fail. I know the DVD computer in the back can be sent off and refurbished for $160.
04-16-2012, 08:22 AM
#12
Senior Moderator
Damn db! 
That's the most serious post I have ever seen out of you!
What is your profession if you don't mind my asking?
That's the most serious post I have ever seen out of you!What is your profession if you don't mind my asking?
04-16-2012, 09:09 AM
#13
04-16-2012, 09:14 AM
#14
Sorry but one last serious bit:
If you try to resolder the PC board, I think that there is a surface mount IC for the driver display. That is where my problem was so it will aleviate the necessity for hitting all of the solder points if the solder for the IC looks a matte finish or looks crystalized.
If you try to resolder the PC board, I think that there is a surface mount IC for the driver display. That is where my problem was so it will aleviate the necessity for hitting all of the solder points if the solder for the IC looks a matte finish or looks crystalized.
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04-16-2012, 11:22 AM
#15
Senior Moderator
Usually when I start talking like that all I get back is 
.
.
04-20-2012, 02:27 PM
#19
Senior Moderator
Actually, I was thinking more along these lines.
Originally Posted by RL Bose 2 ohm audio system question
I haven't replaced my speakers yet, but have a pretty good knowledge of audio engineering. Ultimately, db22 is right in that the only speakers YOU will be powering with the amp are the ones you are replacing, and you know that the rear speakers are fine with the factory amp. Therefore, you don't care how the factory speakers interact with your amplifier. Just make sure the speakers you hook up to the amplifier are within the load range of the amp.
Just for anyone's information though:
The amplifier is going to attempt to keep the amplitude of the voltage swing (signal) coming out of its mosfets (drivers) the same regardless of the load attached. Power = V*I, or = V^2/R because of Ohm's Law- V=I*R. Were V is your voltage (signal), I is the current, and R is your resistance (load). Therefore, the lower the load resistance (ohms), the higher the power you are going to get out of the speaker. However, the restriction to achieving ridiculous power by just lowering the resistance of the speaker is Ohms Law. Whenever the voltage remains the same, and the resistance is lowered, the current must increase by the same factor. The mosfets have a limited current driving capability, and when this is pushed, they will cause extreme distortion and eventually fail. Either because of current-overload protection in the amp, or essentially blowing up, they won't work temporarily or forever. If you match the resistance of the speaker to the acceptable range of the amp, you will be fine.
What is interesting is your last statement.
What do you think "better sound" is- loud or clean (not distorted)? IMHO "better sound" means the least amount of distortion possible at high volume. If you agree with me about this, then you would actually look for a higher impedance speaker, and put an amp behind it that can make it loud. The key to distortion is keeping the current range of the mosfets small so that they can accurately change the voltage at high speed. Since current goes down as resistance goes up with the same voltage, a higher impedance = better performance. Lower impedance = higher power. Decide how much "coin" you want to spend and look for the compromise between the two that will fit your definition of better sound.
Hope this helps.
Just for anyone's information though:
The amplifier is going to attempt to keep the amplitude of the voltage swing (signal) coming out of its mosfets (drivers) the same regardless of the load attached. Power = V*I, or = V^2/R because of Ohm's Law- V=I*R. Were V is your voltage (signal), I is the current, and R is your resistance (load). Therefore, the lower the load resistance (ohms), the higher the power you are going to get out of the speaker. However, the restriction to achieving ridiculous power by just lowering the resistance of the speaker is Ohms Law. Whenever the voltage remains the same, and the resistance is lowered, the current must increase by the same factor. The mosfets have a limited current driving capability, and when this is pushed, they will cause extreme distortion and eventually fail. Either because of current-overload protection in the amp, or essentially blowing up, they won't work temporarily or forever. If you match the resistance of the speaker to the acceptable range of the amp, you will be fine.
What is interesting is your last statement.
What do you think "better sound" is- loud or clean (not distorted)? IMHO "better sound" means the least amount of distortion possible at high volume. If you agree with me about this, then you would actually look for a higher impedance speaker, and put an amp behind it that can make it loud. The key to distortion is keeping the current range of the mosfets small so that they can accurately change the voltage at high speed. Since current goes down as resistance goes up with the same voltage, a higher impedance = better performance. Lower impedance = higher power. Decide how much "coin" you want to spend and look for the compromise between the two that will fit your definition of better sound.
Hope this helps.
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HEAVY_RL (04-20-2012)
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HEAVY_RL (04-28-2012)
05-08-2012, 08:04 PM
#21
I had the same problem and here is my solution:
The center channel speaker unit just pulls straight up on 4 clips, they are push fit and pushing up at the display will release the 2 facing you and you can get to the other 2 very easily by pulling the whole unit up. Once released, there are two connectors that need to be disconnected, one is for the display and the other one is for the speaker. Now you can take the unit to the bench and you will see a few plastic clips and/or screws that hold the display together. Now you need to disassemble the display so that the pc board is free. On the PC board you may see some corrosion or some dryed solution, the solution is usually from the bath in manufacture that dissolves the flux used in soldering. The soldering assembly is not very good on this unit and you will have to inspect with a magnifying glass all of the solder points for what is called a "dry joint". It is frequently easier to touch each soldering point with a soldering iron to get "flow". You may need to use a little solder on each point but make sure the solder flows. If you do not have any flux cleaner then iso-alcohol will work to clean the board after soldering.
If you do not feel profficient at soldering then you should find somebody that is to help you as one mistake could destroy the board and I think that I got quoted over $250. It's been a long time since I fixed mine but the problem never came back.
If you need any more details let me know and I will try to help.
Obviously check that the 2 connectors are mated correctly before attempting the above. If they are loose, which I doubt, then just reseat them. I would not bother with the fuse routine because fuses are binary: they either have continuity or they don't, I.E. they either allow current to flow or they don't.
The other test would be to pull the unit up at the display and see if you can "flex" or twist the unit with your hands to see if it blanks the screen or not. If the flexing creates the intermittent issue then I propose the dry joint solution.
The center channel speaker unit just pulls straight up on 4 clips, they are push fit and pushing up at the display will release the 2 facing you and you can get to the other 2 very easily by pulling the whole unit up. Once released, there are two connectors that need to be disconnected, one is for the display and the other one is for the speaker. Now you can take the unit to the bench and you will see a few plastic clips and/or screws that hold the display together. Now you need to disassemble the display so that the pc board is free. On the PC board you may see some corrosion or some dryed solution, the solution is usually from the bath in manufacture that dissolves the flux used in soldering. The soldering assembly is not very good on this unit and you will have to inspect with a magnifying glass all of the solder points for what is called a "dry joint". It is frequently easier to touch each soldering point with a soldering iron to get "flow". You may need to use a little solder on each point but make sure the solder flows. If you do not have any flux cleaner then iso-alcohol will work to clean the board after soldering.
If you do not feel profficient at soldering then you should find somebody that is to help you as one mistake could destroy the board and I think that I got quoted over $250. It's been a long time since I fixed mine but the problem never came back.
If you need any more details let me know and I will try to help.
Obviously check that the 2 connectors are mated correctly before attempting the above. If they are loose, which I doubt, then just reseat them. I would not bother with the fuse routine because fuses are binary: they either have continuity or they don't, I.E. they either allow current to flow or they don't.
The other test would be to pull the unit up at the display and see if you can "flex" or twist the unit with your hands to see if it blanks the screen or not. If the flexing creates the intermittent issue then I propose the dry joint solution.
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MarkII (01-02-2022)
02-05-2013, 10:41 PM
#23
I recently bought an used rl and it has the same issue. I took it apart just like the above post by db22 mentions, and since I don't have the tools to solder the bad joints, I took the board to the local computer repair shop and asked them to re-solder the joint at the end of the board. As some other post mention, if you look really close you can notice the difference between a bad or a dry weld and a a good one. The computer guy only re-solder the last one, He charged $30 (I thought it was a lot, but the risk was worth it), I came home and put it back together and everything works like new.
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MarkII (01-02-2022)
02-06-2013, 07:45 AM
#25
Senior Moderator
02-07-2013, 07:32 AM
#26
BTW- a lot of people say that, "I'm a big help"!
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68gtxman (09-27-2020)
02-07-2013, 02:05 PM
#27
Actually, He did no where to put the solder or what joint to solder. I told him which ones he should redo, based on the solution to the problem that your post suggested.
02-07-2013, 05:48 PM
#28
2 cents worth of solder and $29.98 to know how to solder
10-06-2013, 12:44 PM
#29
10th Gear
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
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I have an 2006 TL. The center speaker comes out as advertised but the display is still bolted to the dash. looks like 2 screws on either side of the display holding it in. Am I missing something? I can take the center speaker out but the display is still held in place. Thanks,
10-18-2014, 10:20 PM
#33
10th Gear
I just had this happen today in my 2006 RL. It was flickering, looking like matrix code, then would go back to normal. It was very strange. I'm glad I looked here to see what it could have been. It is back to normal right now, but it was just weird that it happened. It happened right after starting the RL and I was turning on my phone's bluetooth. I wasn't sure if that had anything to do with it, but it was still weird.
11-05-2014, 08:50 AM
#34
Advanced
Mine has been doing this for a while and the dealership told me $1,100 to fix (due to labor/taking it apart). I laughed. Hard. I have a phone for the time and my body can tell if I'm hot or cold. LOL
11-07-2014, 12:17 PM
#35
Intermediate
seems to be when I play my music loud. loose connection? Anyway when I take the clock out and hold it up it does not happen so it must be from the vibrations. Havent found exactly where the problem is but ill keep looking.
01-21-2015, 03:03 AM
#37
2nd Gear
Join Date: Sep 2011
Age: 46
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Well thanks to the info here, I have re-soldered two joints on my top radio info/time/climate display in my 2005 Acura RL since I had a similar issue with random flickering or off condition with the display. Hopefully this fixes my problem.
Solaris
Solaris
10-15-2015, 08:56 AM
#40
Sorry to revive this thread but I have the same issue... I have the unit out and board in front of me but can someone tell me or post a pic of which solder point is the one that is usually the cause... and once I do find it do I just touch the tip with the soldering iron to just get it moving again?