Boomstick0

So I've had the worst luck with cars in the past couple years or so...

In 2013, I bought a house on a hill and traded my rear wheel drive 05 Cadillac STS in for a '10 CTS that was all wheel drive. The STS had 100k on it and never gave me a problem and may have been the best car I've ever owned, and I should have parked on the street or a parking lot a mile away in the winter in retrospect since I had no chance to make it up the hill. But the CTS had a leaky sunroof, and various suspension components would fail on a near biweekly basis. Ten trips to the dealer later for the sunroof issue alone within the first year, they fixed the original leak but created a new one plus a lot of sunroof noise.

I got rid of that thing and got a 2011 Dodge Charger R/T, which has been a problem from the moment it overheated driving it on the way home. Turns out the dealer replaced a thermostat but did not replace the radiator fluid that drained out. I've had several other problems with the car, while all have been fairly minor and overall inexpensive, I can't afford to keep dropping $100 every month on various repairs, and if the car has this many issues with only 50k on the clock, I can't wait to see what it's like with $80k when my warranty expires.

So I am considering trading the Charger for a RL (assuming I fit in it comfortably which is a huge if). I found two models, the same color, both AWD models and I believe even the same options. One is a '08 with 73k, and the other is '07k with 80k. The '08 has a torn drivers side armrest and some various wear but seems to be in overall decent shape, but the '07 appears absolutely spotless, although it was in an accident in '07 (the carfax shows most of the services and they are all basic maintenance). I should be able to end up with a payment on 5 years for less than what I have now as well. My friend has had better luck with his '97 RL with 180k on it (maybe 200 now) than I have had with the Charger that's barely over 50k...

So as RL owners, what has your experience been? Are these cars typically reliable to higher mileages? I know I will need to replace the timing belt in a couple of years time (105k), and I hate the idea of using a belt instead of a chain, but if I can avoid having to take the car in on a monthly basis it's more than worth it.

Also, what's the brake and rotor life like? I know Honda has had some issues with poor brake and rotor life on certain models, which is why I ask.

Thanks in advance.

benjaminh

With all the nightmares you've had with used cars, have you considered buying or leasing a new one?

For years I bought used cars thinking I was "saving" money. For me it was very much a false economy not just in terms of money, but in terms of stress, time spent at the dealer, etc., etc. A new Acura will probably provide a near trouble-free ownership experience for c. 6 years. But a used Acura with lots of miles will likely be expensive and troublesome to maintain. A used Acura is almost certainly a lot more reliable than a used Caddy, but still, for most old luxury cars it's typically one darn expensive thing after another.

You could lease a new TLX for c. $300 a month. It's pretty close to the size of 2007 RL.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the J-engine has been in production since 1996.
the RL has the 3.5l iteration of it and its called the J35. These motors are STOUT! will last past 300k miles.

However, and it's a BIG, However....
if the previous owner didnt treat the car well, you're going to have the same problems with your other used vehicles.

you're going to need to find an exemplary example. clean on the outside and clean on the inside.

ALL RL's are AWD, in this case it uses Honda's Super Handling All Wheel Drive.

also, ALL RL's are fully loaded.

yes, if the engine hasnt received its timing belt maintenance, you'll need to get that done!


so, you'll need to do your due diligence and take your time to find the right car for you. if not, you're going to have the same troubles as it being a higher mileage car, things do go out.

i like what the poster said above...buy a newer or lease a newer vehicle, if the stress of fixing problems isnt for you

Boomstick0

I've always bought used and even after dropping $100/month on various repairs, still typically come out ahead. The CTS was the exception of the CTS. The warranty covered all of the attempted sunroof repairs, but that expired and I had given up with the sunroof but and I was dropping $350/month on wheel bearings or whatever plus whatever else went wrong. Seems post bankruptcy GM has cut a lot of corners and even my mechanic friend who swears by GM told me that when he gets a newer GM vehicle, the first thing he does is swap out all the wheel bearings with Moog parts.

I would have to put a fair amount down, plus it would be quite a bit more expensive because I would need AWD which should be closer to $400/month with the standard $2500 down. I'm really looking to avoid a huge amount down right now as last year my girlfriend lost her job due to disability and I had paid in cash for a gas conversion including a new boiler, so I am trying to recuperate some of my savings from that.

Otherwise, good advice though

Boomstick0

Let me rephrase this. I had a 1984 Buick Electra that had a half a million miles on it that was eventually totaled (I replaced it with the Cadillac STS). It still did not burn a drop of oil and I had far fewer problems with that than I did my past two vehicles and I drove a whole lot more on a daily basis back then as well. Sure I have had several issues, I had to replace a fuel pump, heater core, tie rod, and a starter and wiring, but considering the age, mileage on the car and the fact that during all these repairs I put 200k on it, that's more than acceptable.

If I have say a couple issues a year, I can deal with that. And even better if I can use my local mechanic who I have used for 15 years and has been great to me. Plus I can walk to work. I think I mentioned that I would have been better off in some cases taking it straight to him than taking it to the dealership and paying the $100 warranty deductible, but I never really know that until after.

Boomstick0

Here is the one I am considering. Looks very clean. It's a bit of a drive, but my friend works 4 miles from there so I asked him to give it a look over.

Acura RL 2007 in West Springfield Worcester Hartford CT | MA | Union Street Auto Sales | P1257

benjaminh

That is a nice looking car, inside and out. And, if it's a one owner with the miles shown, the price seems pretty good to me....

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

i also agree. i did not see any redflags when viewing the pics.

Boomstick0

There is also this one as well, but there is some shown wear. Maybe a potential backup, but the '07 looks far cleaner.

Used 2008 Acura RL For Sale | Latham NY

rlerman

These are fantastic cars, built very well. 07 and 08 were good years, kinks from 06 and 05 were largely worked out. Find the best deal and buy it. Make sure it's been maintained well. An 07 and 08 should have had timing belt done as they are due at 7 years. If not, adjust price by $1000 since you'll need to do. Shocks and struts need replacing around 100k, factor in 800-1500.

Boomstick0

Are struts that much on these cars?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^from the dealer, yes.

remember, dealers will always rape you.
its best to get them from a dealer that sells lower than list price.

Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

#5 is a front shock which goes for $181.
then if you're handy, you can install it in a day.

or pay some one to do it.

benjaminh

That 07 really looks like it's in good shape. And the styling doesn't seem dated to me. Very premium. What was the original list for that puppy?? c. 55k? Getting it for 13k seems like a good deal, since a top of the line Accord that's just a year or so newer might go for almost the same $?

I wonder why a nice RL like that didn't end up at an Acura dealer? Maybe a little too old for them?

Boomstick0

I don't think there area any immediate Acura dealers in the general Springfield, MA area anymore.

oo7spy

Not true. The 2005 model had one trim. 2006 added the CMBS/ACC/PAX trim option. 2007+ have Base, Tech I, and Tech II (CMBS) trims.
That car is a base model. There is no navigation nor an AUX audio input. The car does indeed look good, but I would try to find a Tech I or II.

Best post here.

Stock struts will run you ~$600 for parts. KYB has an option for ~$300, but they are new to this forum, and the long term durability has yet to be determined. We are finally seeing a decent number of coilover options, but those will all run $1k+.


Do you have the link for the 2008? The armrest tear is common. If it is the center console, there are a few options for replacement. If it is the door panel, any upholstery shop should be able to fix it for $100. The 2G RL is a very reliable car. The biggest issues reside in the electronics specifically the door handles. 2005 and 2006 had the most issues so steer away from those. 99% of the RLs here (keep in mind most people show up because they have issues) have never had a drive train issue that left them stranded. If you perform the recommended maintenance, there is no reason to expect a major issue before 200k miles. Ironically, there have been a noteworthy number of sunroof and windshield leaks, but I wouldn't let that push me away.

Boomstick0

I linked the 2008 above but here it is again. It's also at an Acura dealer. There's a little more wear on the car itself (and the tires look older too) but it looks identically optioned.

Used 2008 Acura RL For Sale | Latham NY

From what I gather, KYB parts are ussally passable, but not great. I found sets of Acura struts already as low as $250 a pair new, so I'd just do that.

So there is no aux or USB input is okay with me as long as it will play mp3 cds? and is the CD drive reliable? If so, I can load up a bunch of Zappa and King Crimson on a few CDs, and I'm happy. Not as good as having a USB stick, or as the Charger has, the SD cards but mp3 CDs still work.

I don't really need NAV either. My last three cars have it but I hardly use it honestly and I have a natural amazing sense of direction. I can navigate to major Boston roads by heading "that way". As long as I have a sunroof (that doesn't leak) and cruise control and decent power I'm happy! My biggest problem might be a drop in trunk space to be totally honest.

Door handles should not be anything too major.

Boomstick0

I also notice that the posts in this forum are at an extremely low problem to post ratio. Which is encouraging because a lot of people only show up when they have issues.

Boomstick0

I also might consider this too. A year older, but it would be great for the annual camping trip!

I'm probably getting that RL however.

Used 2006 Acura MDX Touring w Navi

benjaminh

The 2007 does look like it's in a lot better shape to me.

(oo7spy: amazingly cute dog.)

oo7spy

The 2008 is a base as well. The 2007 does appear to be better kept, but the accident is a ding. Maybe you could use that a leverage in the negotiation of the price if it checks out.

The CD player is largely reliable. It's an Alpine be unit. I'm 99.9% sure it will do MP3 and DVD-A discs like all other models. You can even upgrade to the navigation system later by picking up a used navigation DVD drive for the trunk.

If you are okay with normal door handles, you can unplug them in the event of an internal short. After having them, you may want them back though. I would guess that 1/10 RLs has the door handle short in its life. Water is the largest risk, so garage queens have better odds.

I forgot to mention about pads and rotors earlier. Mine had original brake parts at 59k when I totalled it. I would guess an average of 60-80k miles for pads with quality materials. Rotors are cheap enough that I buy them and install instead of turn them.

One advantage of the base model is no AFS system to fail and cause an error light. That one is very common.

Thanks. If only they stayed that way forever.

Boomstick0

60k+ on pads and rotors is really good. So not an issue on this car

AFS is lights that turn with the wheel? The CTS had them, pretty cool but really doesn't add that much as long as the headlights are adequate to the vehicle -- and one thing that never broke on the car, amazingly enough!

Do dealers need to program special codes to replace the door handles? Any idea? I know they need to be painted.

oo7spy

Door handles are plug and play, but it's a PITA to do because of little working space. A member here did a write up for a DIY.

Yes, AFS are the active headlights. The HIDs in the RL are more than adequate IMO.

Boomstick0

I have never had HIDs that weren't adequate. Also is the stock audio system any good?

oo7spy

"Good" audio is a completely subjective matter. Given your previous responses regarding music taste, I am willing to bet you will be impressed by the stock sound quality.

If The Carter V had been mentioned in your post, I would bet you would want to update some areas of the system.

Boomstick0

Good to me is neutral. Should be at least as good as one of my Cadillacs -- the Bose system really isn't all that good though. When I had the Buick, I redid the entire audio system -- all with parts that I got at a really good price plus a memphis belle amp that I won on a poorly worded ebay auction. I could have entered car shows for audio (and possibly even won). So now I know what car audio can sound like

Boomstick0

The speakers in the Charger are high and mid muted though. If I keep the car, I will be swapping them out.

With audio that is a bit better, I would not bother as long as it's passable.

Boomstick0

So I'll go test drive the car after work today. I drove by it on the way to get lunch (a little roundabout) and it looked extremely clean! Their entire lot did for that matter, which probably says something about the lot (a ton of used car lots and dealers over here blatantly don't care and only clean the cars when they know you're coming to look at it).

oo7spy

Bose is known for taking the absolute cheapest products and squeezing every ounce of performance out of them. The 2G Legend had cardboard speaker cones. They did a pretty good job in the RL for a stock system. The original cars came with a DVD-A demo that was used to tune the system and demonstrate it.

benjaminh

Let us know how it goes. I'm curious about this one. Looks like a sweet ride.

Boomstick0

I got the '07 RL! The only noticeable wear on the car was the steering wheel controls. Maybe I'll try to find some new ones someday, but it's not a big deal. The leather is in better shape than the Chargers was when I got it as well (and the Charger's wasn't even bad!). It actually had LESS underbody rust as well -- extremely clean!!!!

They had dropped the asking price a few hundred, and I negotiated a little more on my trade. I probably could have played hardball a little more, but from my research I think the price was very fair. Plus, they got me a really low interest rate! I was hoping to get my payment to $60 cheaper, but it ended up being $90 cheaper, and I hardly had to put anything down.

So here's my thoughts on several questions I asked for things that were brought up..

#1) I fit. It's actually very comfortable and I barely even played around in the seat. The seats are actually softer than the Chargers.

#2) The audio is honestly the best sounding stock audio I have ever heard. There are some imperfections but no major frequency is off. Beats the Bose system in both Caddies. Very pleased.

#3) The HIDs are in fact more than adequate.

#4) it plays MP3 cds. And holds up to 6.

#5) As a normally American car owner in the past, it rides and handles very different. It rides like a Honda but a little smoother, handles bumps adequately. No hood to follow along the yellow line, which is weird after driving the Charger but the CTS and STS didn't have much of a noticable hood either -- and tried to be the RL in terms of steering and handling but failed miserably (bumps hurt in that thing!)

#6) It is the second quietest car I have ever owned overall (behind the STS). In terms of interior creeks, there's none to be heard.

benjaminh

Congrats!!

Boomstick0

Also, thank you everyone for your helpfulness.

Boomstick0

I hope the third time is the charm.

oo7spy

I have confidence your experience will be better. Seriously, go searching for a "wood" Taupe 2005-2012 steering wheel on eBay. Most of the ones now are coming with new buttons, and I can assure you, you won't regret whatever you pay for it. One word of caution. Don't close the door from the inside at the top of the handle. You say you're big, and the RL door is heavy. That shit WILL break off if man handled. Reach lower, treat it like a lady, and you'll be fine.

Boomstick0

I'll remember that. I don't typically slam my door anyway though, so I imagine I will be fine.

oo7spy

What's really weird about your search was that it turned up two Opulent Blue Pearl RLs. It wasn't a very common color and the likelyhood of finding them in later model years is low. I love the color, and couldn't believe your only two options were the same.

Boomstick0

It's weird I even found a RL at all based on where I live. When I bought my Cadillac STS, I wanted to check the RL out too and I think I had one, only I brought my girlfriend with me and we only had limited babysitting, I didn't have time and I really liked the STS so I just bought it. At least that car wasn't a mistake.

When I bought the next two lemons, the closest RL for sale was a solid 4 hours away or more. I just said forget it.

Boomstick0

Oh is it easy to replace the steering wheel btw? I found this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-RL-2009-2012-Steering-Wheel-Wood-OEM-2010-2011-/161766432990?hash=item25aa07e0de&vxp=mtr

oo7spy

It is relatively easy once you have a steering wheel puller. Autozone, etc. will let you borrow one. The whole process takes 30-60 min, and there is a great write up here for it. A plus for the wheel that comes with the buttons is that you won't have to swap them over. That saves a good amount of time for a first time installer.

That wheel looks like what you need. It's crazy how many are available these days and the prices they are going for. That was the accessory wheel for the 2005-2008 model. MSRP was $570, but you could buy them new for $420. They are discontinued now and impossible to find new. When the MMC came out in 2009, that became the default wheel, and the MSRP went up $200.

Seriously, do it. The wood wheel is IMO the best interior mod there is for this car.

Here was mine.

Boomstick0

It looks a lot nicer. I will grab one as soon as I have the cash available and find a good deal. That one, or another one should pop up as well.

It definitely does look nicer.