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For some time now I've had the occasional grinding when i press the brakes. I don't hear it when I brake lightly, but if I'm speeding and I press the brakes to full stop, I hear it. It's mostly to the front right, I think.
I put my phone's led light on the disks, the brakes seem to have 25% still left there. Unless the ones on the inside that i can't see have worn faster than the outer pads?
I had planned on doing the brake lines & fluid this fall, but this i feel i need to do now. Could it be bearing? or pads nonetheless? and i do get a smell sometimes...
Could be a few things, but Take the wheel off and inspect the brake area. Pull the pads and re-lube the back of them. Maybe an issue when piston pushes on metal backing of the pad?
how many miles on the rotors? When was brake fluid last changed? Pedal feel normal?
wheel bearing would make a constant rumbling noise, I think.
Not likely a bearing as it would be constant grinding.
My guess you have something caught in there like a stone and occasionally rubs or more likely the caliper is sticking on whatever side you hear it most prevalent. If you have a IR thermometer take the car for a ride and when you come back check the temp on both wheels if the caliper is sticking the temp on that wheel will be hotter of course.
I don't think it's a bearing as it would make a noise at fast speeds.
I would start by taking the tire off and inspecting the rotor, caliper for any abnormal signs or caliper is probably sticking. Meaning it's defective which in turn has worn your pad. Check how much brake pad you have.. if it's uneven on both sides then remove the one with the least padding left..
Could be a few things, but Take the wheel off and inspect the brake area. Pull the pads and re-lube the back of them. Maybe an issue when piston pushes on metal backing of the pad?
how many miles on the rotors? When was brake fluid last changed? Pedal feel normal?
wheel bearing would make a constant rumbling noise, I think.
Miles on rotors I'm not sure, probably still the same ones since factory, around 80k; possible?
Do u get them coz they're better than stock? acura dealer just quoted me 70 USD for front pads! He says they're branded 'Honda' but thinks Brembo makes them.
they are cheaper, like half the price, than all other options i've mentioned. i'm a bit perplexed; and inclined towards them i might add
i'm totally a noobie now. How is it that acura dealer is selling me the pads half the price of the others? anything bad with those? should i get them? Part numb 45022-sja-040
I called to check just in case. He threw me justnspace.
clearing stock?
if its branded Honda, it could mean he's just trying to get rid of any extras.
and if i recall, thats how much they are.. my brembo pads from honda/brembo are about 50-70 bucks... inline with aftermarket pads.
but i rather go aftermarket pads than the brembo pads...the brembo pads for my TL are made of carbon and will produce tons of brake dust the minute i leave my driveway.
make sure he isnt giving you TL pads, as the TL uses a 4 piston caliper much like the RL.
RL brakes are Advics. I choose Napa because I can reserve them online and pick them up on my way to work. I don't think they are significantly different than any ceramic performance pad you can get at the standard auto parts store. I do however believe they are better than stock for the same price if not cheaper.
Well. i get 15% with this dealer too, so they just became 61usd. I've ordered them. My rotors aren't vibrating, so they're staying. thanks guys!
Edit: dealer says they are organic. not carbon, not ceramic. whatever that means.
Types of brake pads
There are four general types of brake pads for cars and trucks:
Semimetallic: This formula, containing about 30 to 65 percent metal, typically includes chopped steel wool or wire, iron powder, copper or graphite mixed with inorganic fillers, and friction modifiers that bond all the ingredients together. These pads are more durable and have excellent heat transfer, but also wear down rotors faster, can be noisy, and may not perform optimally at low temperatures.
Nonasbestos organic: Sometimes listed as organic or NAO, this type of pad is made from fibers, such as glass, rubber, carbon, and Kevlar, with filler materials and high-temperature resins. These pads are softer and create less noise, but they wear faster and create more dust.
Low-metallic NAO: These are made from an organic formula mixed with small amounts (10 to 30 percent) of copper or steel to help with heat transfer and provide better braking. With the added metal, there is more brake dust and they may be slightly noisier.
Ceramic: These are composed of ceramic fibers, nonferrous filler materials, bonding agents, and possibly small amounts of metal. Lighter in color and more expensive than other brake pads, ceramic pads are cleaner and quieter, and offer excellent braking characteristics without wearing down the rotors.
NOTE: I have had great luck with Rock Auto for lots of these type parts but since you already got yours its a moot point. I did have 1 issue with them when I ordered a new belly pan for my RL lets just say its fit perfect and shape was spot on but the weight was the equivalent of paper.
RL brakes are Advics. I choose Napa because I can reserve them online and pick them up on my way to work. I don't think they are significantly different than any ceramic performance pad you can get at the standard auto parts store. I do however believe they are better than stock for the same price if not cheaper.
Originally Posted by oo7spy
Regarding your uneven wear, your calipers could be sticking and may benefit from a rebuild.
The Honda brand i'm buying tomorrow is half the price of Napa's ultra premium which is a grade less than yours... So i think i'm going to try them out. I am planning major work in the fall which will certainly include this caliper rebuilding you're mentioning. Added to list.
Originally Posted by 08KBP_VA
Types of brake pads
There are four general types of brake pads for cars and trucks:
Semimetallic: This formula, containing about 30 to 65 percent metal, typically includes chopped steel wool or wire, iron powder, copper or graphite mixed with inorganic fillers, and friction modifiers that bond all the ingredients together. These pads are more durable and have excellent heat transfer, but also wear down rotors faster, can be noisy, and may not perform optimally at low temperatures.
Nonasbestos organic: Sometimes listed as organic or NAO, this type of pad is made from fibers, such as glass, rubber, carbon, and Kevlar, with filler materials and high-temperature resins. These pads are softer and create less noise, but they wear faster and create more dust.
Low-metallic NAO: These are made from an organic formula mixed with small amounts (10 to 30 percent) of copper or steel to help with heat transfer and provide better braking. With the added metal, there is more brake dust and they may be slightly noisier.
Ceramic: These are composed of ceramic fibers, nonferrous filler materials, bonding agents, and possibly small amounts of metal. Lighter in color and more expensive than other brake pads, ceramic pads are cleaner and quieter, and offer excellent braking characteristics without wearing down the rotors.
NOTE: I have had great luck with Rock Auto for lots of these type parts but since you already got yours its a moot point. I did have 1 issue with them when I ordered a new belly pan for my RL lets just say its fit perfect and shape was spot on but the weight was the equivalent of paper.
Thanks a lot! Yea rockauto is cool, easy to use. I've never bought, but used to get discounts for my ex-car by asking my local garage/part shop to price match this RockAuto online Thanks for reminder gonna reember them this fall.,
Originally Posted by rlerman
I run akebono pads with centric rotors, they last a long time. Good braking, limited dust, quiet. Very reasonable too, get them on Amazon.
Napa branch owner said his system says oem original pads on RLs were akebono. Not certain tho.They are 180usd for fronts!
The replacement brakes Acura sells are engraved Honda, and Advics makes them just like Spy said. The ones on my car were Advics as well. It would be interesting to know which brakes were on the car at zero mileage.
The mechanic thinks i shoulda changed rotors as well since he believes the heat spots are causing that grind noise.
Is he correct?
here's what the brakes looked like. The thinner ones were on the inside, but I doubt that made the noise; it's still got some brakes on there:
The Honda brand i'm buying tomorrow is half the price of Napa's ultra premium which is a grade less than yours... So i think i'm going to try them out. I am planning major work in the fall which will certainly include this caliper rebuilding you're mentioning. Added to list.
Thanks a lot! Yea rockauto is cool, easy to use. I've never bought, but used to get discounts for my ex-car by asking my local garage/part shop to price match this RockAuto online Thanks for reminder gonna reember them this fall.,
Napa branch owner said his system says oem original pads on RLs were akebono. Not certain tho.They are 180usd for fronts!
cant see, but did the old pair have the "feeler" prong?
the good thing is that its an even wear! its not wearing gradiently .
also, I would re-use rotors. the hots spots were created by the old pad. and could perform a 'bed-in' procedure to help clear those hot spots
I dunno what's a feeler prong.
Well, I decided not to buy rotors yet coz i know what rotor vibration feels like, and its not that. i had a grinding noise.... which im hoping is gone! only my inexperienced eye can't see how these brake pads caused it.
Usually, the backs of the rotors corrode more than the fronts and get more 'groovy'. The wheel side dries off condensation quicker due to the lack of the backing plate. Especially here in damp old England.
The rotors may look good on the outside, but are often rough inside. That can cause noises & faster pad wear.
The wear indicator makes a screeching noise. I know this, because I wore mine well down, knowing that I needed new rotors & therefore pads all-round. Pedal feel is also much nicer now.
Well i didn't get s screech, but a grind. Planning on letting these new ones run for a 100km or 2, then i gonna go chase & bug some left lane hoggers and see if it still grinds once i'm back out on my exit.
I abused her behind today a little... no grind. Braking is quite good too. better than before.
But i am wondering, if brakes still had meat on them, what's been grinding? Something became loose when inside pad's thin and oil too hot = made something grind?
I had something really hard get stuck in one of my front pads just a few weeks ago. Got wedged in there pretty good and caused a deep groove in the rotor surface. Ended up replacing the front rotors and all new pads from Brakemotive. When I pulled the pad out, what was left of the object was still stuck in the vertical gap in the pad. Looks to have melted in there after wearing down. With some heavy prying with a flathead screwdriver whatever it was finally flung across the driveway. Never did find it. But, that was the source of my grinding noise
The boy that changed them probably flicked something off without giving it much thought. i shoulda paid more attention. at least, no more grind. I'm happy.
and yes, i started off 'meh' about the car but my brain told me it's a wise purchase. and i also had to, i had run out of time. but now... i'm gonna need some Buddhist detachment techniques.
07-18-2016, 03:45 PM
