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Hi all.. I just purchased a 2007 RL with 72k miles. The car is close to mint condition. I'm going to replace the Automatic transmission fluid and AWD fluid for piece of mind as I don't know if the previous owner replaced the ATF or the AWD fluid.. I need some direction with regards:
1. Do i just perform a drain and fill or do i do a 3x3 or a flush?
2. When replacing the AWD fluid do I also just replace the rear in the transfer case and clutch housing or do i also have to do it next to the front transfer case next to the transmission?
Personally, I don't do 3x3 flush and drain.....just not convinced it's all it is cracked up to be and it's expensive and time-consuming. Mechanics say the same but you will find zealots here who swear by it. Your choice.
Simple drain and fill at 72K is probably sufficient for all four cases....but do all four cases!! Then do it at 30K intervals. Did mine at 60K and 90K and will do it at 120K....no problems yet!
Ive had my share of experiences with the honda acura trans. I find when you flush them you open up a can a worms sometimes.
I just did a customer 2013 TL with 70k on it so 45k miles on it and the fluid showed alot of sign of clutch pack matterials in the fluids. We strained it and the paint filter showed alot of fibers.
These fibers get clogged up in the shift silenoids and delay shifts which cause the clutch packs to have less pressure and not engauge the clutch pack fast enough and slip a bit.
Pull your dipstick out and put it on a piece of white paper and view the color of the fluid.
You can also do a inline filter also on the RL which i made a post on somewhere here.
I would do a filter and a drain and see what your fluids look like. 9 bottle of fluid is cheaper then a tranny in my eyes and i rebuild them myself !
If you want to see what prolonged lack of tranny fluid service look like , search my name on the CL side i dide a full rebuild.
Ive had my share of experiences with the honda acura trans. I find when you flush them you open up a can a worms sometimes.
I just did a customer 2013 TL with 70k on it so 45k miles on it and the fluid showed alot of sign of clutch pack matterials in the fluids. We strained it and the paint filter showed alot of fibers.
These fibers get clogged up in the shift silenoids and delay shifts which cause the clutch packs to have less pressure and not engauge the clutch pack fast enough and slip a bit.
Pull your dipstick out and put it on a piece of white paper and view the color of the fluid.
You can also do a inline filter also on the RL which i made a post on somewhere here.
I would do a filter and a drain and see what your fluids look like. 9 bottle of fluid is cheaper then a tranny in my eyes and i rebuild them myself !
If you want to see what prolonged lack of tranny fluid service look like , search my name on the CL side i dide a full rebuild.
Hi JDMCRX.. First of all thanks for the response..
Can you elaborate further on the filter and a drain process? Is this different than the 3x3 or drain and fill?
I have no problem performing maintenance on the tranny or the AWD, as long as it's prolonging the life of them and not having to rebuild/replace the tranny and AWD components.
Ive had my share of experiences with the honda acura trans. I find when you flush them you open up a can a worms sometimes.
I just did a customer 2013 TL with 70k on it so 45k miles on it and the fluid showed alot of sign of clutch pack matterials in the fluids. We strained it and the paint filter showed alot of fibers.
These fibers get clogged up in the shift silenoids and delay shifts which cause the clutch packs to have less pressure and not engauge the clutch pack fast enough and slip a bit.
Pull your dipstick out and put it on a piece of white paper and view the color of the fluid.
You can also do a inline filter also on the RL which i made a post on somewhere here.
I would do a filter and a drain and see what your fluids look like. 9 bottle of fluid is cheaper then a tranny in my eyes and i rebuild them myself !
If you want to see what prolonged lack of tranny fluid service look like , search my name on the CL side i dide a full rebuild.
I've read in this site that some do a 3x3 every 30k and a drain and fill every 15k for the tranny.. So i'm tending to agree with what you also said..
I just don't see or haven't read anywhere how often you're to drain and fill the rear differential fluid..
Every 30 on the diff and transfer case. I drain atf at every oil change three times in a row, then skip it the fourth time and start again for the next three oil changes. Every time it's drained, three quarts come out.
Every 30 on the diff and transfer case. I drain atf at every oil change three times in a row, then skip it the fourth time and start again for the next three oil changes. Every time it's drained, three quarts come out.
Thanks rlerman for the direction on the Diff and transfer case... I'll apply it..
Help me understand further your ATF oil change intervals and make sure i'm understanding process correct.. With every engine oil change you perform, you're also draining the ATF during those three iterations (5-7k) and approx 3 quarts are replaced. On the fourth iteration (engine oil change) you skip draining the ATF fluid. Then the next three iterations you drain the ATF along with the engine oil and so on... I hope my explanation makes sense..
Thanks rlerman for the direction on the Diff and transfer case... I'll apply it..
Help me understand further your ATF oil change intervals and make sure i'm understanding process correct.. With every engine oil change you perform, you're also draining the ATF during those three iterations (5-7k) and approx 3 quarts are replaced. On the fourth iteration (engine oil change) you skip draining the ATF fluid. Then the next three iterations you drain the ATF along with the engine oil and so on... I hope my explanation makes sense..
That's correct. Might be a little higher frequency than is called for, but I'm only changing my oil once per 10 months or so as I drive about 9k miles per year.
I don't think you can replace the Transmission filter.. I've owned three Honda's (Accord, TSX and now RL) and I've never heard of anyone replacing a transmission filter..
RL doesn't have serviceable transmission filter. It's in there but you would need to take trans out in order to replace it. The only feasible option is what JDMCRX has done with external filter mod. There is another thread about it: https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...enance-930420/
So let me understand this.. You installed a additional filter (externally) in addition to the internal filter in the tranny? So in reality you're filtering the ATF twice. Or did you remove the transmission and take the internal filter out and resorted to the external filter..
Based on the comments here, it seems we only have technically three options
1. Perform a drain and fill every 15k (approx. 3 quarts)
2. Perform a 3x3. Meaning drain it once (approx 3 quarts) and fill, drive it for 5 min. Then drain and fill a second time (3 qts), drive again another 5 min. Finally one last drain and fill (3 qts)..
3. A flush. start the car drain 2-4 quarts and fill with the amount drained and follow that sequence until you've filled 9 qts. **Most on this forum have discouraged this approach**
I just dont know which one of the three will be best in removing all of the ATF and not causing any harm to the actual transmission..
A 3x3 every 30-45k or changing the trans fluid every 10-15k will yield essentially the same result over time. The only difference would be if your fluid is in bad shape and a 3x3 will get the most new fluid in faster. If your fluid is in good shape, changing it more frequently is easier IMO than a 3x3.
If you do a 3x3, you need to drive the car between fill and drain, engage every gear, and lock the torque converter in 5th.
The other drivetrain fluids are your tranfer case near the tranny, and the rear diff. The rear diff has two chambers for a total of two drain and two fill bolts. Make sure you use all four bolts during the service.
The transmission filter is technically serviceable, but it is not considered a maintenance item by Honda. Honda only recommends changing it under extreme driving conditions involving towing. Even then, that interval is VERY long. The filter sits in the bottom pan of transmission held on by quite a few bolts. Dropping the pan to replace the filter is trivial, but putting it back is not. You have to replace the gasket and tighten the bolts carefully and in order to not damage the gasket. Frankly, it's not worth it as Legends don't tend to have transmission issues.
Fluid recommendations are on the last page of the manual. ATF-Z1 has been replaced by ATF-DW1 for the transmissions and Dual Pump Fluid II (DPFS) for the rear diff.
The RL has a internal filter and the only way to get this is to split the tranny open and remove it. This is how honda has been doing trannies for years. I believe the 01 up CL and TL have a external housing that you can replace the cartridge.
I did the 3x3 3 times with royal purple and eliminated the factory rad heat exchanger BS and just ran a inline filter and the factory front tranny cooler.
I have PCD,J pipe, 68mm TB ported intake 3.5" intake and crank pulley and ive been beating my tranny and doing a few launches on the 19's in manual and auto mode and the tranny shifts smooth.
Honda trannies are not that bad as everyone thinks, The main problem is once the the fluid get full of debris and the clutch barrels and silnoids get full of material its too late she will slip.
So best to get as much of the crap out of there before you pound on it.
If you notice delayed shifts this means your silnoids are full of debris and its a time bomb waiting to go off !! sorry but thats the truth.
Just to provide an update.. Yesterday I flushed the Transmission fluid, Transfer case, and rear Diff Fluid.. While I was going to do all of the fluids, I went ahead and changed the engine oil as well.
Since i was draining all these fluids, I went to a friend’s garage where he has a lift and it made accessing all these areas a lot easier as oppose to placing the car in jackstands.
The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF-DW1) and Transfer Case Fluid (DPFS) I bought at the local Acura Dealer. Since I was going to be performing 3x3, i went ahead and bought a case of ATF (~$79) and Four (4) qts of the Transfer Case Fluid ($31). When I spoke to the dealer about the Transfer Case fluid, the parts manager told me to just buy 80-10 Gear oil at any local parts store. So I asked, where do you guys get it from? His response "we buy it in bulk from a local supplier". Of course I wasn't going to take that as gold. So i thought, I'll just buy the ATF and Diff Fluid and do research on this forum about Transfer case fluid options. I found another forum within Acurazine (https://acurazine.com/forums/diy-faq...change-794283/) and it stated to purchase quart Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec synthetic 75W-90. Since neither of the local auto parts had Mobil1 or Castrol, I bought Royal Purple. In addition, I purchased a $10 hand pump from the local Auto parts that just screws on to the quart.
I started with the Rear Diff and a bit less than four quarts I added housings of the transfer case. Then I thoroughly drained the hand pump of any Rear Diff fluid. Once drained, I sprayed some brake cleaner all over, in and out of all the lines and waited until it dried. Then I moved to draining the transfer case fluid. While, the transfer case fluid was draining, I also moved over a bit to drain the engine oil. While both the transfer case and engine oil were draining, I was prepping the Royal Purple 75w-90 and the hand pump. I squirted about four times to ensure any residual Diff fluid didn’t make it in the transfer case.. If I’m not mistaken, it took a little over half a quart of the Royal Purple fluid. Then I moved to the Engine oil.. No need for me to explain as everyone pretty much knows how to replace engine oil..
Once I was done with the engine Oil, I then moved to draining the Transmission fluid. Now the ATF, was a bit tricky since the Engine Splash Guard sits right under the Tranny drain plug and also has insulation.
1. Since I didn’t want to make a mess, I removed several clips and removed a bolt holding the splash guard under the tranny..
2. Then I cut a old antifreeze (1gallon Coolant) jug side laying down and about half an inch of the bottom so it could slide further in between the tranny and the splash guard.
3. I then removed the drain plug and it just flowed smoothly without getting the splash guard dirty and full of oil.
4. While it was draining I loosened the fill bolt on top of the tranny. Getting a hold of the bolt once loose was a challenge from the hood as I couldn’t get my hands in between the air Intake/throttle body and fuse box. So I used magnet to get it.
5. Since I didn’t have a Funnel long enough to reach to the Fill hole and in between the air Intake/throttle body and fuse box I had to improvise and attached a old hose (of course I thoroughly cleaned it) and attached it to the funnel.
6. I added three quarts, and then checked the level and noticed it was low, I then added half a quart and was close to full.
7. Putting on the bolt and washer back on the Fill hole was a complete PAIN. My hands couldn’t fit in between the air Intake/throttle body and fuse box. So I went from under the car and thru the lower-driver-side and after several attempts I honestly don’t know how I got it on there and tightened it.
8. I then bolted back the splash guard and did not put the splash guard clips since I didn’t want to risk breaking them in removing them.
8. Started up the car and let it idle for 2 min since the engine oil was also drained. After idling, I went thru all the gears and drove it for approx. 7-10 min. Noticed the tranny shifting smoother while driving it.. Then back on the lift for round two of draining and filling.
I followed the same process as described in 3-8 the second time. I still had a very difficult time getting the bolt and washer back on the tranny fill hole. My buddy is a mechanic by trade and somehow he got it on there quicker than I did thru the bottom. This second time I just started it up, went thru the gears and off I went driving it for 5 min. I felt the tranny shifting a bit smoother than first drain and fill.
Then one last time on the lift for the third Drain I also followed the same 3-10 steps. Since this was going to be the last drain, I made sure the drain bolt was on tight and super clean. And for the life of me, I still had a very difficult time getting the bolt and the washer back in the tranny fill hole. I ensured the tranny was topped off Full.
Overall it was fun the only headache and painstaking question I have: 1. If you add the ATF thru the Tranny Fill Hole on top of the tranny, how do you get that bolt and washer back on there without it being so painstaking? 2. Do you add the ATF thru the dipstick? If so, what funnel do you use to get into that small dipstick port?
Hope this helps someone and thanks to all of the great direction and response from everyone. VERY HELPFUL!
Last edited by cobra10363; 09-16-2015 at 01:09 PM.
I gave up on the tranny fill hole, way too much trouble. I use a transmission funnel that has a narrow end and use the dipstick hole. It doesn't fit in the hole, but I tape it to the dipstick hole to hold it there using duct tape. No issues, takes 30 seconds to attach and then remove.
If you disconnect the fuse box, you can push it back toward the firewall (IIRC) and get a little more room that way. I only ever did it once. It wasn't easy, but it wasn't the worst either.
I agree that removing and replacing the transmission plug is a pain. However I do a drain and fill on a more frequent schedule than recommended. About 30K. I think it is better than the 3x3 change on a less frequent basis.
Thanks for the feedback rlerman, oo7spy and, dapqam....I'm going to look for a transmission funnel to see if I try to find one that will fit on the dipstick hole.. I have two burn marks on my left arm as reminders of how much of a pain it was putting that tranny fill hole bolt and washer back on there.. Worse case, If I can't find a Funnel slim enough to fit on the dipstick, I'll try removing the fuse bos for extra room..
I gave up on the tranny fill hole, way too much trouble. I use a transmission funnel that has a narrow end and use the dipstick hole. It doesn't fit in the hole, but I tape it to the dipstick hole to hold it there using duct tape. No issues, takes 30 seconds to attach and then remove.
Is it safe to use pump which attaches to the bottle and pump the ATF through dipstick tube or it would create air and bubbles?
08-31-2015, 11:57 PM
However I do a drain and fill on a more frequent schedule than recommended. About 30K. I think it is better than the 3x3 change on a less frequent basis.
