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Hey Guys,
I haven't been on here in forever and the topics are slowly disappearing. It appears to me that the 2nd generation RL'ers are fading fast. Not me, I am holding on to my baby until she can go no more.
So here's my latest issue. I drove home last night and noticed my lights flickered while pulling out of work. Didn't think much of it until I got home and parked. I opened the door and the lights didn't come on like they have for the past 8 years. Then I realized I had no power to the lights, door locks, windshield wiper and I couldn't start the car. My dome lights worked and that's about it. I knew it wasn't the battery because I have changed the battery a few times and the signs were different. So I checked the fuses. Found the culprit. #7 10amp - under the dash inside of the RL. I did some research and read that the door handle may have shorted it. When I placed the new fuse in, everything worked. I started the car, drove it to work, and it's still working. The only thing I can think of what shorted it is that I adjusted my mirrors last night; I haven't done that in a long time. The last thing that is going is the display above the screen has been flickering for months. I usually hit it and it comes back on. I am just trying to get an understanding of what may have shorted the fuse. It's called the back up number 7 fuse.
This might sound stupid, but did it rain while you were at work and was the car parked in the rain? I'm thinking moisture got into the door handle and created the short, by the time you replaced the fuse all the condensation was gone? Unless someone else has another idea?
This fuse is a bugger. 2 years ago I blew the driver door handle, after 4 hours of research, went in and unplugged it, replaced #7 and was good to go. Last year I was driving and smoke started to come from the passenger door arm rest. Pulled over, dug in and unplugged the passenger side. So both unplugged. Last week I went to the docs and got suck. Car wouldn't start or boost. I did get full power though. I took out fuse 7 and checked it. it was fine...or so it looked. I replaced the fuse and was good to go. I am going to buy a 10 am fuse where the light goes out when the fuse is toast.
Update
January 21 - Fuse # 7 burnt out - replaced it.
March 10 - Fuse # 7 burnt out - replaced it but it keeps popping. I literally am putting it in and seeing the fuse spark and pop. It was a crazy weather day in Boston yesterday and the car sat through the ice storm and when I got outside to get in, my key FOB didn't work and I had to use the key to get in. The car wouldn't start and I immediately thought to check the fuse. Luckily I bought a box of them and tried to replace it while in a blizzard. I was down to my last one and finally quickly started the car and kept it running. I went down to check the fuse and I had barely put it in because it seemed as if, when I shoved it in, it would pop, so I barely made a connection and was able to start the car.
Fast Forward to this morning. - I tried to unlock the doors with the key fob and again the fuse is popped. I have a short somewhere and I have no idea where to even start looking.
Any advice before I bring it in?
My Front Passenger door handle has not worked with the touch feature in over 2 years. So today, I opened up my drivers side to unplug the harness. Taking the door panel off was easy. 3 screws and popped it off. I unplugged two harness's and then tried putting in the number 7 fuse but again it popped. Literally upon placing the fuse in, I can see the spark. Tomorrow I will unplug the passenger door even though that hasn't worked in years. After that, I am stuck.
If it's not the passenger door, where do I go to next?
Lastly,
Am I unplugging the correct harness? The actuator?
The plug in the last picture is the actuator. From what I can tell, it does look like you unplugged the door handle in the second (middle) picture.
Should I be unplugging both of them on each door? I have to do the passenger side tomorrow, even though it hasn't worked in years. I don't know where else I could be getting a short from.
Should I be unplugging both of them on each door? I have to do the passenger side tomorrow, even though it hasn't worked in years. I don't know where else I could be getting a short from.
I believe you just need to unplug the door handles. That way you retain power locks and only loose the handle proximity feature.
All fixed.
Unplugged the passenger side, plugged the drivers side back in and replaced the fuse. Didn't pop and started right up. Also the light on the door handle works now. Never knew I even had that.
I see some burn marks but I'm not 100% sure if I'm correct.
Update:
As you had read, I have unplugged the door harness to my passenger front door and the then replaced fuse # 7 and everything worked fine. Fast Forward to today - I noticed that my Key Fob wouldn't work so I went out to my car and nothing is working again. Its a little different this time around. I finally was able to unlock the door with my FOB and I tried turning the key to which I can. But nothing happens. No clicking, no indication of what is wrong at all.
Where do I start to look now?
These are the lights that come on when I turn the key. I know its not the battery. I have been through the signs for battery and this is definitely electrical. The only after market product I have on the car is the remote starter. It actually came with the car when I bought it. I am guessing that may have shorted or is causing the problem. Please shoot out some ideas that you may have.
Thanks in advance.
I went ahead and changed the battery. It was a Honda 100 month Battery and today was month 40. As soon as I put the new battery in, everything was back to normal. I brought the old battery to Honda to get checked and they said it was low and charged it for an hour and now its fine. I didn't feel right about putting that battery back in. Honda guy stated that there must have been a draw somewhere that lowered the battery like a light left on or something. I never ever have left a light on. I just think every 3-4 years it needs a battery.
If the new battery is dead in a week or two, then I have a problem. I just don't know what to do with the old battery. Keep it or just leave it at Honda?
Very good question. I will have to see what they charged me. I doubt they will accept a core after I already purchased a battery. That would mean he would owe me a refund and Honda doesn't refund ever lol
01-21-2017, 03:43 PM
