Got me a 2013 RDX AWD w/Tech for $18K.

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Old 11-23-2016, 04:33 AM
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Got me a 2013 RDX AWD w/Tech for $18K.

With 80K miles, which is the reason why I got it cheap, but it looks new inside and out, about time too, been 3+ years since I've been talking about getting an RDX. All the fluids and filters are new, new brake pads, new tires, looks immaculate. No warranty left so I got an extended warranty for $2,500, which I wasn't planning on getting, but it's bumper to bumper, 3 years/36,000 miles with only $100 deductible, still saved about $7,500 compare to one with half that mileage, been keeping an eye on RDX's on Carmax and Autotrader and they're all around $25-$28K, so with tax... it would have easily been $30K +, I got it for a total of about $22,500, with $2.99 APR, so I'm good. I'll change the fluids myself anyway, oil, trans, TC, RD. I'll get fluids from BernardiParts.com, will do a trans fluid change 3X to clear out all the old fluid, TC, RD... soon. Been driving a little, no that much so far, used Sports mode and it's great, keeps it in gear, very responsive, love it. I already ordered a K&N drop in air filter and LED back up bulbs (JDM ASTAR 800 lumens), which I have on my wife's car and they're crazy bright and pure white. Still getting used to the whole thing, now I can say I belong here for real, finally got me an RDX.
Attached Thumbnails Got me a 2013 RDX AWD w/Tech for K.-rdx.jpg  
Old 11-23-2016, 06:06 AM
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Congrats, that is a pretty good deal and a great picture! I also have a 2013 w/AWD and Tech in Graphite Luster Metallic - so far I have been nothing but happy.
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Old 11-23-2016, 09:05 AM
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Yay! Great deal too. I have been watching pricing as well. Even low mileage CPO 2013-14s in AWD+Tech falling to lower-mid $20Ks.

Last edited by Kaputnik; 11-23-2016 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 11-23-2016, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Kaputnik
Yay! Great deal too. I have been watching pricing as well. Even low mileage CPO 2013-14s in AWD+Tech falling to lower-mid $20Ks.
Agreed. Mine was CPO and around that price.
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Old 11-23-2016, 10:52 AM
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Congrats on the beautiful car! Sounds like an awesome price, and you can never go wrong with an extended warranty nowadays. Grigio is my all-time favorite color from Acura. Car looks like it's in great shape and the tinted windows are an added bonus!
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Old 11-23-2016, 12:40 PM
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Congrats looks awesome with the tinted windows! 80k miles is absolutely nothing on the J-series!
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Old 11-23-2016, 03:48 PM
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Window tint will be redone anyway, I was gonna get 20% front, came with 35%, so that will need to come off, and I want to put 35% on the back where there is already the factory tint to get close to 10% or so in the back, plus a strip on the windshield.
Old 11-23-2016, 03:53 PM
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Glove box light bulb was dead, put a new one in and still doesn't work, all interior lights work..., I didn't see a specific fuse just for the glove box, am I missing something?
I put the interior light switch on and auto with the car running and in acc mode, still nothing, and I tried both new bulbs that came with the pack (regular 74 bulbs, pack of 2).
Old 11-23-2016, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RDX10
Congrats looks awesome with the tinted windows! 80k miles is absolutely nothing on the J-series!
What about the transmission, don't they start dying around 100k miles or is that just for American cars?

Trans dipstick is a pain to get to, also noticed where the oil filter is, really sucks, need to cut up a container or something to avoid spilling oil on the frame or whatever that piece of metal is under the filter.
Old 11-23-2016, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Las Vegas
What about the transmission, don't they start dying around 100k miles or is that just for American cars?

Trans dipstick is a pain to get to, also noticed where the oil filter is, really sucks, need to cut up a container or something to avoid spilling oil on the frame or whatever that piece of metal is under the filter.
It still has the Honda-Acura 6 speed thankfully and none of that ZF bull crap. So far have not heard of any issues except for mild harshness which even my MDX does. Just maintain those transmission fluid changes, do it as often as you are comfortable doing (some do one every oil change). Should be good to go from there!
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Old 11-23-2016, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Las Vegas
Glove box light bulb was dead, put a new one in and still doesn't work, all interior lights work..., I didn't see a specific fuse just for the glove box, am I missing something?
I put the interior light switch on and auto with the car running and in acc mode, still nothing, and I tried both new bulbs that came with the pack (regular 74 bulbs, pack of 2).

You make sure the headlights were switched on? It only comes on when the headlights are on.
Old 11-23-2016, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ron.p
You make sure the headlights were switched on? It only comes on when the headlights are on.
Nope, I thought it would come on anytime you open it, thanks
Old 11-23-2016, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Las Vegas
Nope, I thought it would come on anytime you open it, thanks
<br /><br />Just drove around, still not working.
Old 11-23-2016, 10:32 PM
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Only got one key though, no key tag, how much for a new key?
Old 11-24-2016, 01:06 AM
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Is this the code for the radio? I am missing codes for the radio, Nav and key tag.

Old 11-24-2016, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe Las Vegas
<br /><br />Just drove around, still not working.
saw LED referenced in another note. If you're using an LED in there, they are polarity dependent. Pull it and twist it 180 degrees. Did all LED interior, definitely makes a cheap upgrade.
Old 11-24-2016, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ron.p
saw LED referenced in another note. If you're using an LED in there, they are polarity dependent. Pull it and twist it 180 degrees. Did all LED interior, definitely makes a cheap upgrade.
Regular bulb, pack of 2 tried them both, nothing. I saw there is a light in the center console, does it turn off when it's closed, I didnt see one of those push button switches that turn off the light when you push on it.
Old 11-24-2016, 12:12 PM
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I find bulbs listed for glove box but not for console.
Old 11-24-2016, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Las Vegas
Only got one key though, no key tag, how much for a new key?
You need to check with a dealer. They will, no doubt, gouge you. You can probably find a blank online but the dealer probably won't cut/program a key purchased elsewhere.
Old 11-24-2016, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dirleton
I find bulbs listed for glove box but not for console.
Same, 74.
Old 11-24-2016, 12:53 PM
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Anyone knows, #15?
Old 11-25-2016, 06:23 PM
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Never mind # 15, I retrieved the codes for radio and Nav from the Acura owners website. Also got the glove box light to work, I turned on the lights and moved around the wire and it worked, bad connection or something. Are the glove box and console lights always on when the lights are on? I didn't find a push switch that shuts off the light when closing the glove box. Got my K&N drop in engine air filter, starting to do stuff to it already.
Old 11-25-2016, 06:33 PM
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New tires aren't the stock size, supposed to be 235/60-18, they (previous owner I guess) put on 245/60-18 Falken Pro G4 , I wish I could put on some Pirelli runflat tires on it, would do it if I had money to spare. 245 vs 235 make it wider but taller too, 29.6 vs 29.1, so the speedo off by 1.5 mph at 80mph, not a big deal I guess.
Old 11-25-2016, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Las Vegas
New tires aren't the stock size, supposed to be 235/60-18, they (previous owner I guess) put on 245/60-18 Falken Pro G4 , I wish I could put on some Pirelli runflat tires on it, would do it if I had money to spare. 245 vs 235 make it wider but taller too, 29.6 vs 29.1, so the speedo off by 1.5 mph at 80mph, not a big deal I guess.
IMHO the wider tires are both visually more appealing and add more grip so why not.
Old 11-26-2016, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by RDX10
IMHO the wider tires are both visually more appealing and add more grip so why not.
True, but won't it affect the camber?
Old 11-26-2016, 02:53 AM
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Activated my XM, $25 for 5 months.
Old 11-27-2016, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Las Vegas
True, but won't it affect the camber?
No it really shouldn't, the difference is barely there. Now had they jumped up to much taller and wider tires, then you might have issues. Some people put 295 width tires on their mdx's when factory width is 235 on the 3G's.
Old 11-29-2016, 04:46 PM
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80k on the engine, I wanna change the spark plugs just to get the most out of the engine for the next 3-5 years during my ownership, NGK or Denso? Iridium of course.
Old 12-02-2016, 11:21 AM
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Put LED backup bulbs (JDM ASTAR 800 lumens, Amazon for $20)

Stock



LED
Old 12-02-2016, 12:35 PM
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We're the backup lights a PIA to change? Want to do the same thing, I back into the garage space as a well.
Old 12-02-2016, 01:21 PM
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Joe, the last item in your list of mods says KYB's. The TSB states that the banging sound relates to the upper bushings, not the shock itself, unless I'm mistaken.
Also the OEM shocks are 2-stage which gives you a nicer ride unless you're hitting big bumps in which case the 1st stage of damping in the shock becomes irrelevant.
The KYB is single stage so you will most likely experience a rougher ride with those. Just a friendly warning that has already been mentioned on here.
Someone else here successfully changed the bushings themselves which they bought from the dealer.
Old 12-02-2016, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Las Vegas
What about the transmission, don't they start dying around 100k miles or is that just for American cars?
i lol'd

machine tolerances are MUCH MUCH tighter than they were in the 90's
Old 12-02-2016, 02:29 PM
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automatic transmissions back in the 70's and 80's usually died due to worn out friction bands or issues caused by worn out fluid.
Old 12-02-2016, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
i lol'd

machine tolerances are MUCH MUCH tighter than they were in the 90's
My 2005 dodge magnum trans went out around 80k, my PT Cruiser trans went out at 110k, so you can include the 2000's too. That's why I'm done with American cars, they always start falling apart around 75k. I also had 2 other american cars in the 90's where the trans died at 70k. And I always changed the trans fluid and filter once a year.
Old 12-02-2016, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ron.p
We're the backup lights a PIA to change? Want to do the same thing, I back into the garage space as a well.
I don't back into my garage, I just took pictures like that to show the improvement, people always takes pictures of the lights directly which doesn't represent much in term of results.

Install was easy, covers came off easy, need a flat screwdriver with a cloth to prevent scratching, then you just unscrew the light socket by hand and replace the bulb, mine came off easy and the new ones went in nice and smooth. Need small hands through or you'll need a long pair of needle pliers.
Old 12-02-2016, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Skidoor
Joe, the last item in your list of mods says KYB's. The TSB states that the banging sound relates to the upper bushings, not the shock itself, unless I'm mistaken.
Also the OEM shocks are 2-stage which gives you a nicer ride unless you're hitting big bumps in which case the 1st stage of damping in the shock becomes irrelevant.
The KYB is single stage so you will most likely experience a rougher ride with those. Just a friendly warning that has already been mentioned on here.
Someone else here successfully changed the bushings themselves which they bought from the dealer.
I'll do it because everyone says it fixes the problem, and if I find it too harsh I'll put the stock shocks back on using the kyb bushings. It's not an expensive mod so I'll do it anyway, thanks for the concern though.
Old 12-02-2016, 04:24 PM
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I got a wheel alignment done yesterday, all 4 wheels were in the red (toe numbers) and my steering wheel was off center to the right, now it's perfect.
Old 12-07-2016, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Skidoor
Joe, the last item in your list of mods says KYB's. The TSB states that the banging sound relates to the upper bushings, not the shock itself, unless I'm mistaken.
Also the OEM shocks are 2-stage which gives you a nicer ride unless you're hitting big bumps in which case the 1st stage of damping in the shock becomes irrelevant.
The KYB is single stage so you will most likely experience a rougher ride with those. Just a friendly warning that has already been mentioned on here.
Someone else here successfully changed the bushings themselves which they bought from the dealer.
Are you sure KYB's are single stage, looks like 2 stage shocks according to the description: " The KYB Gas-a-Just has two separate working chambers: An air-free hydraulic piston and valve area for responsiveness & control, and a second high-pressure nitrogen gas area with a floating piston that provides a comfortable ride during normal driving and adds instant performance on demand".
Old 12-07-2016, 04:49 PM
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Looks like technically you got me on the single stage vs. 2-stage, I always thought they were single stage..sorry about that ...BUT...The point is that the RDX shocks are pretty soft over small bumps, and the KYB's are supposed to be a step up from OEM in terms of the damping effect, so I am quite sure the ride quality will not be as soft as using the factory shocks. Dont get me wrong, I like the idea of using aftermarket stuff when its decent stuff and the KYB shocks are good, I installed them on my 69 Cougar. They worked great and really improved the handling of the car but negatively affected the smoothness of the ride a little bit. Just trying to help you steer clear of a possible disappointment ...(hey I like Vegas).....but I'm sure if you do your research (which I'm sure you are) you will be happy with whatever you decide to do.........you could just change the bushings too, I believe the other forum member who did this reported that the new bushings were different ....
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Old 12-08-2016, 01:37 AM
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congratulations, hope you enjoy it....
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Quick Reply: Got me a 2013 RDX AWD w/Tech for $18K.



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