Aman

Looking good!

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

^what he said..

Some days I like the hood tilt, other days I despise it..

rp_guy

blew my j32a2. teh cl, is everything needed for the j35a3 swap listed in post 21?

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-.../#post15107517

IE. crank sensor stuff, front timing gear stuff, water pump stuff? that's all? no need to even swap pistons (like many others in the past have said to do)? also the j35a3 is the 01-02 mdx motor?

thanks

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Yes, everything from post 21 & the J35A3 is from the 01-02 MDX

No need to swap pistons or open up the motor at all if you're swapping in the full J35A3..

Only reason ppl swap pistons is when they use the J35 block with the J32 heads..

Keep us posted.

rp_guy

Didn't you use the J32A2 heads? I will be doing that as I upgraded the valvetrain on my heads before the last rebuild. There's quite a few cheap J35A3 in Canada so I'm sure I can find one for less than $500 shipped (as opposed to $1000 locally here in Edmonton)

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

What did you upgrade in the head?

I swapped the complete J35A3 with the 6spd sensors from the J32..

I was gonna swap over the type S cams as well but decided to leave the motor internally untouched..

CLassy02

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

When you get the call that your bumper stayed behind..

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

pero, why?

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Shitty bumper + a lot of snow + unpaved streets =

When I went back to pick up the bumper it was in 6 pieces, soo fucked up but it was due for replacement anyways..

Majofo

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

thought this was a diet thread, lol

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Shoulda left it on until after the thawwww!!!!

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

I have something in the works for the rest of the winter..

So I've put a solid 14,000 km on the J35 since I did the swap & I'm loving every minute of it, keeps asking for more..

There has been some issues that have happened along the way and they started piling up so I made the decision to pull the motor to do some much needed maintenance.



Here's teh list:

- rear main seal
- new oil pump seal.. replaced this when I did the swap but it's still leaking so I'm throwing in a new oil pump assembly
- main shaft bearings in transmission
- transmission seals
- remove broken alternator bolt from block... that should be fun
- flex pipe
- fuel return line leak
- DIY polyurethane mounts
- valve adjustment

That's the jist of it & you can see that I'm way better off doing all that with the motor out..

Save the best for last




J32 Types S cams from my old motor are going in as well..

The motor sat outside for months in sun, rain & snow so I sent the cams out to get inspected/micro polished. Can't wait to get em back..

stay tuned...

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Lots of work ahead! I have a crappy feeler gauge if you want to use it.

Did you pick any rims? I grabbed an ingalls kit, eibach rear sway and moog links to go on in the spring.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

I'll grab that feeler gauge off you for sure.. i have some, just don't know if I have the proper ones to do the valves..

As for rims, nothing yet but there will be some come spring time

Aman

sucks about the bumper... heard you guys got hit pretty hard by that storm. Car is looking good otherwise!

Would you mind PM'ing me how much you bought the J35 for?

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

teh CL I would change valve spring as well, the J35A3 uses a different spring then the J32A2 and was not design for the S-type red line. I swapped both cams and springs in mine, plus some porting work and milled the head .020" to bring the static compression back up a half a point to match the J32A2. It definitely needs a bigger TB and 4" intake though, there are times I can feel it suffocating. Can't wait to get it on the dyno this spring!

Just for anyone that's interested the J32A2 and J35A3 share the same head casting casting, they even share the same blocks the differences are internal for the most part. Actually the the J35A3 came first and was de-stroked to produced the J32A2.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

I thought about swapping the springs as well but the springs aren't in great condition from being exposed to the elements for soo long while the motor sat outside. I'm confident though that the springs from the J35 won't be an issue.

The motor is most definitely starving for air. I have ported runners/70mm TB waiting to go on but I haven't pulled the trigger yet since I'm waiting to grab a J37 IM & do it all in one shot.

I'm really interested how both our 6MT/Auto dynos would look.

Gonna be an exciting year

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if Paul (NVA) makes plenum spacers any more. P2R uses a J32 manifold on their race accord rather than the 3.7 manifold.

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

When my machinist reassembled my heads after completing the valve job, he told me that J32A2 springs where much stiffer. Thankfully I picked up new cams with springs for a good price(thanks to ThinJim). That's really what kept me from using a J35A8 cams, I would have as much in springs as I would for the cams.

I'm looking forward to some dyno runs. I'll be using the same dyno Boostedorbusted just put down 304 whp with CTSC with XS headers on a 6 speed.

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

I would like to know...I tired contacting him on another site about RL brackets and couple other things, he didn't seem real interested

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Cams are back & looking great..

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

Sweet!!! Make sure you lay them side by side the difference is clearly noticeable!

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Mainshaft ready to go with fresh bearings..

CLassy02

That's pretty.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Oh it sure is..

Car is all back together leak/noise free..

It was the first time I ever opened up a transmission & it's safe to say that it was quite the experience, good and bad..

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

You liking the those J32A2 cams???

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately I never ended up installing them..

Disassembling/reassembling the transmission to replace the mainshaft bearings ate up way more time than I expected since it was my first time dealing with opening up the transmission. Just ran out of time due to the fact that I needed the car back on the road by a certain date.

Joys of doing all the work myself & learning as I go. So for now they're a nice piece of furniture in my bedroom lol

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I am running the 07 TL Type S Exhaust Valve Springs in my j32a2. Supposedly it helps more with over-rev protection.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Yea P2R has turned me down on a lot of work also. They must be real busy or only looking for easy money.

Took me many years of contacting them to get the info I have. They don't like to just give it out freely.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I want to ask is there any reason to use the MDX j35a3 over the j35a3 found in the Saturn? I remember reading something about issues with j35a3 from the Saturn.

Why use the j35a3 over say the j35a4 from the odyssey? The odyssey has the 3.5 plus the type S heads. I think I read something about issues with that motor also.

I have a custom engine harness made by tucktech to run the j35a3 engine. Not sure yet if I will use it or sell it.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

The MDX's J35A3 has factory forged internals & also has the Type S heads. The Vue/Odyssey have cast parts..

Did you get that harness made for the purpose of going standalone with the auto ecu?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I bought it from a member who was going to swap the j35a3 in his cls6. He said it is made to run AEM EMS 2. He had ID 2000 injector clips on it. I sent it back to tucktech to put oem injector connectors back on.

I was told with this harness the EMS does not need to be modified. He said I need the auto cam gear, Cam sensor, crank gear, and crank sensor. Those were included with the harness.

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

brian keep in mind that base compression is lower on the J35A3 (10:1 vs 10.5:1 j32a2) and pretty certain its even lower for the Vue/Odyssey J35A1. The J35A3 and J32A2 use the exact same block (reinforced) and head castings. The guys at King help me figure out that milling .020" is equal to .5:1 of static compression which is important when matching cams. Just for reference the difference between the J32A2 and J35A3 wiring harness is the map plug, you can use the cls6 harness and keep your current TB with map and be plug and play (tuning would be helpful thought).

I'm currently running J32A2 cams milled .030" with valve job and fully ported intake track with stock J35A3 bottom end. When Vtec hits in 3rd it will break traction, it's like dropping 2 gears. Really think I need J35A8 or J37A1 cams, there shouldn't be as big a transition from primary lobe to Big Vtec lobe (primary being larger w/ more duration). Have to be mind full accelerating through corners!!!

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I want to swap to j35a3 in future, but don't want to really mess with internals or milling unless you have to. I know 2 ppl said they clayed j35a3 with j32a2 heads, but doesn't seem definitive.

Wondering which map plug my custom harness has made to run j35a3 on EMS. This was never specified to me.

No way my tires will break traction in 3rd gear, even with j35. You just need wider and stickier tires. I'm looking into modifying my fenders to run 265 and 275 rubber.

Then if I run AEM EMS by swapping gears and sensors will everything function properly like tach, etc.?

Not sure about engine build and running full standalone. Seems like it will take away from the reliability of the car and will be more stuff to worry about like swapping ecu's every year to pass inspections.

Maybe I need to get a racecar exemption for driving to and from events. My local shop owner does that with his car as car show car, but I don't have my own shop to use as cover.

I still think removing 600-700 lbs affects acceleration more than going from 3.2 to 3.5 but who knows.

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

What size tire are you running now Brian? I'm all in my finders with 235's what your wheel specs?
Dropping weight will definitely help acceleration but in a TL with no weight reduction the 3.5 has made a huge difference.
I hate that there is not an easy way to tune these engines?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I am running 255/35/18 tires on 18x8.5 +52 wheels. Think 255 might be biggest you can fit in front without modding fender or running crazy camber. My front camber is -2.4.

If I was going to pick ideal setup for running 255/35/18 tires, I'd go with a 8.5" wide with +45 to +48 offset. That also gives you clearance for a BBK with a flat face wheel.

I'm purchasing new wheels. Bought 2 18x8.5 +42 to use in front to clear BBK for now. Will swap to rear when I get other 2 wheels. I am thinking of getting 18x9 +35 for the other 2 wheels to use in front with 265/35/18 or 275/35/18 tires. Will have to pull the fenders or weld on 3rd Gen tl fender flares.

For tires I would suggest a 200 tread tire like the hankook RS3v2 or Star Spec 2.

Not sure how 2nd Gen TL fender clearance compares to CL.

These engines are easy to tune, just drop them in any chassis besides the cl.

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

I have 3g types wheels 17x8" +45 offset and 225's are tight, but I also don't have adjustable upper arms in the front so know camber help either.

I was wondering if there was a difference in fender clearance between the CL and TL.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

For comparison, your wheels have 16 MM more inner clearance and 1 MM less outer clearance than my current wheels with 255 tires.

If your wheels were on my CL, I would have room for 255 tires, but 1010tires.com recommends atleast 8.5" wide for anything 255 or larger. I have always stuck to their recommendations.

With those wheels I would go for a set in 245.

I would recommend a front camber kit. Even at -2.4 camber my tires are wearing well. Toe is what you need to focus on for tire wear.

How low your car is can also affect fitment. I am at about .5 to 1 finger gap.

No idea about cl vs tl fender clearance. You will need to ask TL owners about that one.

Lowering car will also give you negative camber without a camber kit. My Ingall's arms originally didn't offer much adjustment. I extended the slots to allow a little more adjustment. That got me to -1.7 camber roughly. Then lowering car got me to -2.3 to 2.4.

That is about all the camber I can get with available camber kits. I am pretty happy with that camber setup for autocross. No worries on street also. Good thing about double wishbone suspension is you don't need as much static camber as a Macpherson strut setup.