civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

You're making some good progress since the last time I saw the car. Now that the car is pretty light, when are you going to focus on functional aero?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Have been researching aero for few years now in preparation. I want to get some more track days in before I go crazy with aero. I don't want to look like the noob who bought a modded car but can't drive, even though I probably still do.

Will probably make a front splitter out of alumalite or wood. I will need to make it removable for street and autocross. I am wondering if I should use the RJ front lip and adding it under that, or just selling the lip kit. If I do sell it I won't have another chance of buying one though.

I have a spare front bumper that is unpainted. I could use that bumper just at track with the splitter and add some quick disconnects to make bumper removal easy, then just swap before events. I would also be able to add canards without worrying about there being holes in the bumper when I remove them for autocross. I don't want the cones damaging them or bumper. I will add a section made out of sheet aluminum to block the front tire section.

Maybe some horizontal side sills out of sheet aluminum, or vertical removable ones made out of some type of plastic.

Warhorse Modular Rear Diffuser - Will do this first.

Still going over wing ideas. Buying a second trunk lid or a carbon fiber might be a good idea. Need to decide how I want to mount it. I still want the trunk functional.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

What are your thoughts on carbon hood? I'd love to get one....paint it with some clear mixed with SSM, so it's not so contrasting.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I have had the hood and trunk on my maybe buy list for a long time. Wish we had more options. Has anyone ever actually weighed the difference or are they all guesses?

The VIS pieces have the fiberglass skin underneath which makes them kind of heavy. I would prefer Carbon only. Then I would need to store the hood (my storage space is already full). Fitment issues have always concerned me. My hood now is perfect and the paint is perfect. I like how easy it is to open and close.

Would probably ditch latch system and go with hood pins. It would be more work opening and closing. You would need to paint or at least clear coat it. I have seen what they look like after a few years in the sun and it isn't pretty.

Carbon creation makes a hood also but I have never seen one in person. Wish there was a good comparison of that vs VIS.

I could take the OEM hood and remove the lower frame or swiss cheese it. Could also ditch latch and install hood pins and maybe cut some holes for venting.
For the trunk I am waiting to decide on spoiler/wing before I make decision.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

i saw this website: CFX Carbon Fiber OEM Hood > Acura CL 2001-2003

that looks like Civicdrivr's CL.....and he had a VIS hood i'm pretty sure. lol

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Thank's for posting that, I love how they flipped my pictures

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

you have great internet ears!

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Civic you didn't happen to weigh the hood did you?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I forgot to mention when I talked to Scott at King Motorsports he said they have scales and can weigh my car.

They will wait till the work is done and the seats are put back in. There are a few parts I removed like harnesses, moonroof panel, and side mirrors. I will just add those weights on after. I am guessing a weight around 2900 lbs.

I will probably have them corner balance it also. I am not really concerned about the weight front to back since you want as much weight in front as possible(there is a limit somewhere around 80% I'd guess and you don't want weight in front of front axle or behind rear). My concern is with cross-weights. You want the car to turn the same both left and right.

For the Roll Bar he told me they decided to use 1.75" tubing instead of 1.5" because of the size of the car. I think we could have gotten away with 1.5", but I left it up to them.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I didn't weigh it, but I had heard that the ViS hood and trunk can save about 23lbs.

Quality and fitment was shit though.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Quality and fitment of the hood also? 23 lbs. really isn't that much. I would hope for 20 lbs just from the hood. I could probably do some weight savings to OEM hood and trunk that would be good for 5-10 lbs.

I think I will hold off or pass on those. They would be good for winning awards at car shows though.

1/4 Mile ET Calculator
So according to this calculator, if my car is 2900 lbs and I add my weight, plus my 265 whp number it comes out to 13.1 seconds. If my car makes 280whp after then it would be 12.88 seconds. It seems like 12's can be possible with all motor 3.2 without tuning.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

2 Items removed for Roll Bar install. Will reinstall after.

JDM Honda Interior Road Flare with Bracket - Thought it might be useful if my car breaks down at night, plus some added JDM flare.
Used JDM Honda Interior Road Flare with Black Bracket


H3R Performance HalGuard HG100B Fire Extinguisher & Billet Bracket - Still need to buy 1.75" Roll Bar Mount.
H3R Performance | HG100B - Halotron Fire Extinguisher - Black
Quick Release Billet Brackets | H3R Performance



Here is a list of future mods:

- Accusump Oil Accumulator - Would go with 2 Quart one.
Canton Racing Products - Engine Accessories

- Tuning - AEM EMS 2 - Want to do more research on this and maybe next year.

- Longacre Tire Pressure Gauge & Pyrometer.

- Aim Solo Lap Timer
AiM Sports - The World Leader in Data Acquisition

- Stack Oil Pressure or Oil Temp Gauge

- Oil Cooler

- LithiumPros Lithium Ion Battery
Lithium Pros » Product Categories » 12V Batteries

- Rear Wing

- Front Splitter - Alumalite or Wood

- Front Bumper Canards - Carbon Fiber from McMaster-Carr

- Warhorse Modular Diffuser
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...4826698&type=1

- Stoptech Trophy BBK for TSX
StopTech Trophy Sport Big Brake Kits

- RJ Front Lip - Maybe

- Race-Spec K-Tuned RSX Shifter
Race-Spec Billet RSX Shifter

- Race-Spec K-Tuned Shifter Cables
Race-Spec Shifter Cables and Trans Bracket

- Front Brake Ducts - 2 links show 2 ways of doing it.
Brake Ducts
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-s...d-success.html

- Koni 2812, 3011, or 3012 Custom Valved & Sprung Motorsport Shocks
http://www.koniracing.com/rrproduct.cfm

- A/C Removal - Maybe

- VIS Hood & Trunk - Maybe

- UR Pulley Set

- Clutch & Flywheel Upgrade - Clutchmasters, Spec, or XLR8.

- Hood Latch Removal, Hood Pins, & Hood Vents - Maybe

- Front Endlinks - Hardrace or Custom Adjustable ones

- Redo Wiring & add a Switch Panel - I want to look into removing door wires from the doors and moving window controls to center switch panel.

- Upgrade Roll Bar to Full Cage - Maybe in few years

- Remove Extra Metal - Under dash, Rear Shock Tower Panels & Deadening behind them, Deadening under Wiper motors, Side View Mirror backing panels, Rear Seat Brackets, Door metal, & Roof brackets.

- Hoosier A7/R7 Tires for front.

- OEM Oil Pan with Baffle added by King Motorsports

- Sell Takata Harnesses and Shoulder Pads, Replace with Schroth.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Received some bad news from the shop, can't really say I am surprised. It seems my fears have been validated. The custom long tube headers do not fit. They are basically $2200 worth of scrap metal. I could have a Stoptech Trophy BBK installed already instead with that money.

I asked if they could modify them to fit and he basically said NO.

I asked if they could make me a set and he seemed to not want to do that and said the price would be too high. I replied well over 2k and he said yes.

He mentioned modifying the Comptech's so it seems that is what will happen.

The plans would be to match header manifold openings to the gasket, cut off the header manifold flanges and weld on 2.25" V-bands, then 2.25" piping to a 3" collector and 3" exhaust.

Gnuts you said they were too pretty to install and they will never be installed. You got your wish, hehe. I was worried the header design would lose power anyway. The primaries were too long and the piping diameter or 2.5" split going to 3" seems too much. 2.25" x 2 going to 3" sounds better. Also the unequal design.

I purchased the headers without really thinking it through clearly. Make sure you never buy parts that have not been fitted to an actual car. An engine and subframe are not good enough.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Shit, I'm sorry to hear. I thought initially those would be overkill for your 3.2. Too bad they couldn't use the primaries only or something.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

That's sucks about the headers. I must've missed it, but where did you get them?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

1foxbody

DanZHP

Wow man your so lucky to even experience something like that. ive heard alot of good things about the Ford ST as well, mostly about its turning capability. I never liked fords but the Focus ST is beautiful, i hope to test drive one soon. Im sure its still a great daily driver too and gas mileage must be alot better then your CL. hows the torque leverage in the Focus compared to the CL? and what tires are on the focus atm? and yes thats my baby mark 5 GTI, its also a damn money pit i mean i love Volkswagens and this is my 5TH VW so far. ive had 1.8T mk4 Jettas and 1 mk4 GTI never had any problems maintenance wise was great. until i bought this one ive had some issues with the projector lights mostly the ballast and ignitior kept burning due to previous owner didnt connect it properly ended up spending more then $700 then had major evap leak last owner put fuckin ebay spacer for the diverter valve and the mounts some how separated leaving a big gap and plus DV was ripped and my Cat went bad caused my car to go into serious limp mode. only have slight mods K&N typhoon intake with a box, straight catback exhaust from last owner which has nice rumbling sound to it and turbo screams at you when you push it. and running on Eibach sportline springs it does have a nice go kart feel to it thats for sure. but first month of owning the car i took out the cam follower after researching the common problems on the 2.0T FSI the follower was chewed right through, tip of the high pressure fuel pump was gone but car was still operational weirdly enough, but the camshaft lobe had slight wear to it and later started getting over advanced timing but i didnt wanna change anything yet so i got new internals for the fuel pump and put that back together only thing is my camfollower would wear out alittle faster then it should but car kept running until last month had oil pressure warnings while i was out 3 hours away from home >.> on way back knocking sounds started losing compression, sounds like a lifter bad but now its just matter of finding out why i was getting oil pressure warning. its gonna be my winter project pretty much and i recently got this CL and im loving this car too but im still gonna bring my GTI gonna probably replace all the lifters and maybe some other internals for future boosting and look for new intake camshaft and get upgraded High pressure fuel pump with a updated Cam kit by h2sport Camfollower that they claim never breaks and helps top end speed which i noticed the GTI lacks compared to the CL but the GTI defiantly makes a great track car you can push it like a true hooligan and it will perform nicely especially the early low end torque you get helps alot on those corners i think its 1800 RPMS you get the full torque potential. but if all goes well thats when the CL will become my new project race CAR especially after seeing your build it makes me wanna get on the TRACK even sooner, ive never tracked yet ive only been to some events so cant wait to get out there, while the GTI will remain my daily driver since i drive aloooot and gas aint cheap but also needs some top end speed to destory some V8s cause theres no better feeling then beating muscle with a 4 banger turbo but of course money is always the issue and VWs aint cheap. and i have lots to learn. i recently became apprenticed mechanic so that will give me alot more leverage on working on my cars now especially cause my boss is long time friend of my dad so i have the benefit of using a hoist anytime at work.

DanZHP

shit ;l so i guess finding headers is gonna be a bitch for the CL6 no gains

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I still have my equal lengths if any of you are interested. They may be overkill for a bolt on 3.2

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

My CL actually gets just as good if not better fuel mileage. The mechanical helical lsd in the CL is better than the torque vectoring for the Focus. You can buy a mechanical helical lsd for the focus though, then you have both. With the LSD the torque vectoring doesn't have to work so hard and overheat the brakes. I think the Focus has more potential as an autocross car, and the CL feels more like a track suited car.

The Focus is on stock tires, Goodyear Eagle F1 summer tires. They are decent in dry and great in the wet. The focus has peak torque at 2k rpms with its small turbo also. Too bad the CL is so much harder at making more power, the focus is so easy. You sure you want to use the CL as the track car? I know I get comments every time I go to an event about why a CL or you modded the wrong car, etc. I also get a lot of good comments also, so I guess 50/50.

Everyone I know who has a golf mentions them being money pits. I looked at the 2015 but it was too pricey. You also can't completely disable traction control. Ford was giving big mark offs on their ST's. The value for the money, plus a free driving school was a great deal. I never really liked Ford either but I love the Fiests and Focus ST. I might just wait and hope that the Focus RS comes to the US then I might trade up in 2 years.

Finding? Custom is only way I will go. You can get the cheap ebay ones, comptech are hard to find.

Why haven't you posted them for sale? Can you PM pics and specs to me, even though it is probably to late for me to purchase.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I haven't posted any of my parts for sale

I'm in NC this weekend, so once I get home I'll send pics and details.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Do you have any other goodies I might be interested in?

For the headers what piping sizes did you go with? I would guess 1.75", then 2.25", then 3"?

I am trying to get my parts in order then I will post a lot for sale on here or ebay.

I read back through Reese's and 1foxbody's build threads. Reese has my same mods basically besides he modified comptech header collector to 2.5" and 2.5" exhaust. His dyno was 280whp. 1foxbody had same mods as me minus bored tb, ported IM, and ported runners with comptech modified by gasket matching, 2.25" V-bands welded on header manifold, 2.25"piping, 3" collector, and 3" exhaust. His dyno was 272.

My dyno was 265 with comptech header (not modified), and 2.38" exhaust. I think if I mod my comptech like 1foxbody and do a single 3 inch exhaust I could get 280-290whp. If I can pull that off would I be the highest power NA 3.2 on stock internals, untuned? I have yet to see anything higher besides p2r's tuned dyno. Here is to hoping for good results.

60-70 whp just from breather mods without tuning sounds damn impressive to me. I love these engines.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

The J is an impressive motor. I just wish they put it in something better balanced.

And iirc, the headers are 1.75">2.5">3".

I still have the RL bbk as well, the wideband, and the biggest part of all - the AEM EMS2 for the 6mt harness, with two wideband O2s. I'm sure there's some other little things around as well.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

By better balanced do you just mean rwd? The CL does kind of suck stock, and really needs some weight reduction. How I have it modded it is amazing though. The CL is a rather big platform for FWD also, but that means more stability at high speeds on track.

I might be interested in the AEM EMS 2. Can you pm me details on what I'd need to do to install it?

I think for my setup a header that is 2.25" to 3" seems like a better fit than 2.5" to 3". I would only think 2.5 to 3 on a stroked motor, which yours was. I don't think an expensive motor build is a good idea for a track car. With bolt-ons I can just swap in another motor rather easily and cheaply.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I mean lightweight and RWD. I seriously considered doing a J swap in the FR-S - I actually have the bell housing and transmission for it, but decided against it since I want to be able to easily sell the car when the time comes. I don't doubt that your car feels amazing, but it still has it's limitations and downsides.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

You can actually drive a fwd car faster and more aggresive on the streets than rwd. It is always a blast and I dont have to worry about losing the rear end. If the rear end does start to come around I know I can always power out of it.

I have driven awd cars but I just don't get the same fun factor driving on the street that you do with fwd.

I like rwd, fwd, and awd whereas everyone else seems to hate fwd without even driving a properly setup fwd car.


One of the fastest autocross cars I run with is fwd and the f-wing shows what fwd is capable of on track. I am happy with those limits. The rest is just for bragging to your buddies about dyno numbers and drag racing.

I base cars mainly on fun factor. That is why I love my CL and the Focus ST. I enjoy driving my CL more than a e92 M3. I am a rare bread who is content with what he has. I am not looking to upgrade to a new car every 6 months. I also prefer the mechanical feel of older cars over new electric crap.

I bet I get more joy from my CL than some supercar owners get from their cars. For me that is what really matters. Other thing that matters to me is becoming a better driver.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

This is why I bought the FR-S.

As far as driving a car harder on the street - why? It's the street.

I just prefer the out-the-box feel of RWD over FWD, plus RWD sportscars are typically better proportioned compared to their FWD counterparts

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

where were you 2 weeks ago! i wanted your whole setup

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I do still have the exhaust, but I saw that you got one already.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

^ .. Those equal length headers would be a nice addition to my J35..

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I enjoy driving on street. I know what roads to use and at what times.

I still drive rwd cars and enjoy them. I also drive rwd go-carts. I am going to join an adult league next year.

Just talked to Scott at King Motorsports. Looks like they will begin modifying the comptechs. We will gasket match openings, cut off the manifold flange, weld on 2" to 2.5" transitions, 2.5" down pipes to 3" collector. I guess they think 2.5 to 3 is better than 2.25 to 3. Dunno.

They got the tranny opened and will be replacing 2nd gear because it needed a new slider/spring.

They said they will weigh and corner balance it for me also.

I must say I love dealing with such a professional shop. They are amazing. Definitely worth the drive. I would recommend anyone in the area take a drive there for work, you won't be disappointed.

b52bgz

I have the VIS CF hood and trunk. Civicdrivr is correct, the fitment is not wonderful. Overall finish of the parts is quite nice - I get a lot of comments (and the first question is always, 'are they real?') My hood curve from back to front is slightly greater than stock so you can get the gaps pretty good at the headlights and near the windshield but end up with a bit more gap in the in middle. (Also, one of the mounting holes wasn't positioned correctly and I had to drill and tap a new one.)

Altogether, the hood is not horrible. I would recommend pins rather than the OE latch - it takes a bit of a slam to get the lighter hood closed (partly due to the gas shocks being over-pressure for the lighter hood and partly because the rigidity of the CF is less than the AL). How much lighter is the hood? I didn't weigh but I would estimate easily 15lbs, plus you can do away with all the latch hardware.

The trunk is a better fit, no doubt mainly because it's a smaller piece. You've already removed your torsion springs so you wouldn't have the issue of these springs trying to throw the trunk lid over the top of the car!! Before I removed the springs I was quite concerned that the mounting bolts were going to pull out every time I opened the trunk. Again, I didn't weigh each piece so I don't have a differential number but I can tell you that a single torsion spring, unclipped (if you know what I mean) was still way too much force for the CF to give you an idea. I removed the springs and used two tiny 6" gas cylinders from under the rear deck to the hinge arms.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I didn't run the gas struts on the hood due to the bowing.


And yet the hood still bowed

b52bgz

yep

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

You can do away with the latch on the OEM hood just as easily as CF one. The fitment issues/quality is what is turning me off from it. I tend to open my hood after each autocross run though to vent hot air, and going through the whole hood pin ordeal might make that a pain.

For the trunk I need to decide how I would mount the wing first, because the CF trunk isn't strong enough for trunk mounting. I have never seen a picture of one that fit decently.



I noticed this site when I was on j32a.com.

Prank Parts

They sell header flanges if you are gonna build custom headers, tb adapters, thermal gaskets, air assist delete, butterfly delete, etc.

I know I will be purchasing the air assist delete.

I also read that TBMotorworx.com has adjustable cam gears made and on their car. Hopefully they will get released to public in 2015.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Aerocatch hood pins are quick and easy. They also look better and are lockable.

AnthraciteTypeS

Rocking a vis hood and although fitment is not perfect..it's pretty good. I'm quite picky and it doesn't really bother me. Also running stock latch on the hood with no issues for about 3 years now.

DanZHP

Really better on gas? i feel like my CL drinks twice as much gas then the GTI. this car grabs nicely for fwd compared to the other cars ive owned so far It defiantly feels like the CL would make a good track car i like the LSD kicks when coming out of a turn it feels firm sometimes get weird body roll depending on how i accelerate it out no surprise though i hope coilovers will eliminate that drastically. i think my engine mounts are going bad too gonna have to check that out i heard loud snapping sounds or even between shifts. have you upgraded your motor mounts? but anyways i wouldnt know ive havent tracked yet, just Street driving. i hope after this winter i find proper suspension set up and track it out to get an idea.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Whoops somehow I didn't post the website for Prank Parts.
Prank Parts

Yea I was thinking those would be easier.

Are you on 1 or 2 gas struts? I would probably just buy a set from http://www.mcmaster.com/#gas-struts/=ugb9uc that requires less force. A used OEM set would work also, too bad I threw mine out.

Both seem to get roughly 25 mpg in town and around 30 on highway. When I drove focus on highway at 75-80 mph I got 26 mpg. That same speed in the CL i get around 30. If I drove slower in focus it would get better mileage. When I drive aggressive on the street in the CL i get around 20mpg. When I drove the focus on the track it was reading 7-8 mpg.

Maybe your cl isn't running as smoothly as it could. I keep mine well maintained. I used http://xado.us/ treatments in the engine and fuel. I also have a catch can that keeps my IM, etc. clean. I also am not recirculating the EGR into the intake. That should increase fuel mileage, but at a price.

To make the front hook up better and prevent wheel, here is a list of mods to do.

XLR8 75A Motor Mounts
New OEM Tranny Mounts
Energy Suspension Poly Radius Rod Bushings
Ingall's Stiffy Mount
Replace factory torque dampers with aftermarket dampers
Coilovers or shocks/springs

Those are my mods.

DanZHP

Thanks defiantly gonna keep that on the list. How often are you cleaning out that catch can is it worth getting one for the cl? I wish I could do a egr mod but engine code = failed emissions where I live.