shawn.m

So i bought a 2000 Tl-p from a family friend back in March for only $1800. added CAI, Headers and pulley. Drain and refill tranny with redlne 3 times, NGK plugs, Lots of fun and pretty peppy. Son is about to drive and I have been teaching him to drive in it. I was looking at used cars and decided in the end for what I could buy at $2k or $3k I would be better and feel safer to give him the TL.

I have been looking at CL-S for a while and found a fixer. 225k but 65k JDM motor dropped in two weeks ago, new timing belt, water pump, hoses. Tranny replaced by Aamco at 195k - $5k reciept! New front brakes and rotors. all fluids replaced. Interior needs work - real work. $1800 and away we go.

So Intake, header and pulley are going to come off the TL-P

Lights were fuzzy so got the buffer out with lens gloss - hour later all done
Gas pedal stiff - silcone lube to rescue on the pivot points. better but not best. out of graphite spray for cable so will do that later this week
shopping for a better drivers seat right now. Pile of parts in back seat with a bunch more that i need to go pickup still.
I will also be getting the old motor that had blown head gaskets. Once the truck comes in =)

shawn.m

tires are flat spotted and wrong size - 205/50/17 so looking for tires also. maybe if i can find a good set fo 235/45/17 locally i will do it.

shawn.m

before headlights

shawn.m

after pictures

shawn.m

drivers seat bottom

JarrettLauderdale

While they last longer than comparable Honda seats of the same vintage, these seats just don't hold up. The new CLS6 I bought has the seat ripped wide open. Luckily the seats from my wrecked one are nearly perfect.

shawn.m

found a decent one at local junk yard for $200 waiting on pictures , found another one in fresno for $150 with good leather.
The guy before me bought the $100 black seat covers off Ebay and gave them to me. However, since the heating element in the drivers side lower is broken, might just get a different seat.
Also looking at new tires as these really suck . Thinking of swapping the under drive pulley and belts this weekend as that is fairly easy to do.

Only problem on swapping intakes over is that the stock TL air tube was broken when i put the CAI in. so i have to find a stock TL air tube locally before i can remove the CAI and put it on the CL

shawn.m

Ok talked to the shop that installed the 65k mile JDM engine from JDM engines out of Texas.

here is what they did
- Install motor,new timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, plugs had already been replaced (i might still replace them ) , Drain and refill tranny by flush- ( i will probably do drain and refill with redline high temp atf) , front rotors and brake pads, Fuel filter plus window regulator in drivers door.

Gave my number and name on old motor so i can pick it up in the next week.
This is pretty cool as it means I could build a 3.5 hybrid with a spare motor and have it all ready to swap in at a later date.

I also have to pick up Visors -Back seat pocket -Center console -Rear Tail light -

shawn.m

ordered a new Remote fob from 1midatlanticlocksmith on ebay for $15 shipping included - got it last night. Followed the programming instructions and up and running in 10 minutes. Discovered that Lock motor on passenger door does not work. Will need to pull door apart to troubleshoot - not a big issue.

Ordered two keys also to make sure that my wife has a extra set - hopefully next week.

went and looked at a black 2001 CL-S with brown interior. blown motor.
2001 Acura Cl Type S %*Parting out!*% HAVE EVERYTHING
rear view mirror was same as mine, drivers seat was same also. tires were really worn so walked away.

trying to find a local set of used tires at the moment - might have to order a new set. trying to decide if going to just do 215/50 or the upgrade 235/45 on stock rims.

shawn.m

Drove 300 miles round trip tonight and Picked up old motor, Jdm engine harness, seat back, visors, tail light, and center console.
Paid registration earlier in week.
Got the two key blanks so need to get them made up next week.

I have been working on a truck I bought my wife this week. That is about fixed up so I can get back to the cl.

shawn.m

Got a few more things fixed up today.
Rear taillight replaced, but one of lights broken so will have to pick that up.
Drained Trans fluid and replaced trans filter. Tranny fluid looked a little low so will get more tomorrow.
While I was in the general area I dropped the front plastic and pulled out the air silencer. Just for fun. It gave it a bit more of a hum. I need to get a stock air tube for my TL so I can pull off the CAI. Need to put the stock air box back on the TL first.
Windshield washer tubing was hard and not working. Took off hood cover and replaced tubing. Windshield washer fluid works now
Unpacked the visors and verified how they look. Look good need to find screws and put visor on tomorrow.
Pulled the JDM valve cover and put the cl-s valve cover one back on.

Battery went dead so had to jump the cl from the tl. Took it for a short drive and goosed it. Lots of fun. Shifted fine through all gears. It was only when shifting to reverse that it clunked a little bit. Maybe a little more redline fluid tomorrow. Definitely a lot more fun then my tl

Only have a little free time tomorrow to get a few more things done and need to start commuting in it.

shawn.m

had a little time today between chores today

installed the center console cover today- I was able to reuse the one that was in the car. It just needed screws. So might have a spare arm rest

test fitted the new rear seat back. The old clips were brittle and took a few minutes to break them out. Fitted the rear seat back and it fit very well. However, I am thinking i might just try and buy a new to me drivers seat.

I also need to find screws for the drivers side visor. Their was a TL in the local pick n pull. might swing by tomorrow and grab a bunch of the screws and bolts out of it. I also noticed that their was a j35 out of a honda van sitting on the ground. Already pulled. I really only need the crank and rods out of it so it might be worth a chance to grab it.

The other pick n pull in rancho cordova had a tl - might try and grab the intake tube off it also.

coopcoop30

I love this thread man. I read it whenever you update and plan on starting my own re-new thread. I've had my car for a while now and have done quite a few things. Every time I want to do a thread I feel like it's not ready. So sometime this week. Maybe even today I'll get on it. Thank you for sharing man.

shawn.m

i have a couple of other projects that i tweak on- i have found in the last 15 years that it is easier to start a build thread really for myself so I know what i did

if someone gets some help from looking at what i did even better! I don't think i will get robertparker or yougone501s status but i do like to muck around with my cars

shawn.m

you know that moment when your sitting on the couch and mentally going over what you did for the day on your car? And it hits you why something is not how you think it should be

yeah that was me late last night thinking of why my tranny fluid level is lower when it is running in park. uhh supposed to check it when its NOT running

sheesh doing it like my wifes f150 or her outback. its what happens when you have 5 vehicles in the driveway. whelp will fix that tonight when i get home.

shawn.m

well pick n pull had a 2000 tl-p that i pulled the visor screws out - will install tonight.
I found a 3.0 v6 accord coupe that had the air intake tube. pulled it and compared on the throttle body on the 3.2 - no go ack

i did take a look at a j35a4 out of a 02 Honda van. Van had a front hit passenger side. looks like motor got hit a little. Its $205 OTD with core - trying to decide if it would be worth it to scavenge the crank, rods and intake spacer. maybe sell the heads. Need some advice on this one. Since I already have a J32a2 out of my 01 cls that is complete it should not be that hard to combine the two motors on the engine stand in the garage ahead of time. Its kinda funny as the car just got a complete JDM low mileage j32a2.
My wife is going to really get on my case - you bought it because of the motor swapped in!
but honey it will go faster !

JarrettLauderdale

There's a J35A3 in Rancho-Cordova for $425 that has 107K miles. That engine has a better crankshaft and rods, as well as the same block as the J32A2. You wouldn't need to rebuild anything. Just remove the current engine and drop it in.

shawn.m

In reading all the threads it seems to be that the rods and crank are close in strength. I only looking for a really strong NA build that is daily driver.

However, a running j35a3 that I only have to swap cams is a better deal than the non-running one at pick n pull. However, the problem in California is that if I swap motors with out registering the swap to a larger block by doing a CARB BAR inspection. You can run into trouble. Especially if it is every deemed street racing. Then your car can get confiscated if it is not deemed fully smog legal. Which is why I would prefer to keep the existing j32a block and drop in the 3.5 crank and rods

Well except for the limping the TL home tonight with what feels like a slipping trans. Sigh
Out to read codes

JarrettLauderdale

For my own curiosity, if your engine stamp was covered in sludge and oil, would they wipe it off in order to read it?

shawn.m

Huh not sure what you mean.
The picture of the engine stamp is off the engine at pick n pull

Checked trans oil the correct way. At rest and not running. Fluid is at correct level. Double huh

Installed the visor with the screws from pick n pull.

Had to enter the code for the radio from when battery went dead. Thank god the old owner wrote the code down.

The Tl threw a p1074 code. 4th gear pressure switch. So will swap in a new trans filter, drain and refill oil, plus pull 4th gear pressure switch and clean it. If not clean then will order a new switch. Really hoping that fixes it but the tranny has been slow to shift to 5th from 4th.

Checked codes on cl and nothing. Just vsa and srs light. Plus rear brake light. Will get brake light tomorrow.

I already ordered a right and left abs wheel sensors off eBay. $11 for one and $5 for other. will try the srs plug clear later tomorrow or wensday.

Took the cl for a 20 mile loop on my country roads. Tranny shifted fine, very smooth with good downshifts. Cornered very well. Good power. Just not revving up as quick as the tl. Should improve once I move the CAI, header and underdrive pulley over.

Well, will drive the cl tomorrow for my 110 mile round trip commute.

shawn.m

sorry code was p1740

drove CL into work and it did fine. Shifts are fine - still dont like how stiff gas pedal is. The air flow does not seem to get to floor boards. might need to order new airflow door motors.

JarrettLauderdale on engine swap- yes they would clean off the engine stamp and serial number. What they would do is compare serial number of the motor and model. The local CHP guys in the city know all the major import swap stuff to look for. Their has been cases in California where guys did engine swaps and did not have paperwork when swapping engine blocks. Their car would get confiscated until verification can be done by the CHP. It is not as bad as it used to be and I am pretty careful for the most part where i gas it. Plus it helps that i live 18 miles off the freeway with twisty roads and a very long straight stretch of road

the funny thing is that enough of us hit that local stretch fast that the CHP has come out to the country to patrol it. Even the local Sheriff cars watch it - i know most of those guys so i am not as worried about that. Plus I use a radar detector all the time.

quick funny story - when I had my 96 integra LS - header, AEM CAI, exhaust. I did a quick run up through gears in the city - loved that AEM CAI whistle! Got pulled over. Local cop looked at me as I got out and said - You have white hair - arent you a little old for this ?

shawn.m

stopped by the big pick n pull on antelope

picked up a spare tire that was almost new, cup holder insert and a donnelly rear view mirror - all for $45. The mirror was actually epoxy on but i also grabbed another rear view mirror bracket with the clip in it. Will transfer the clip over - what holds the rear view mirror to the mirror bracket on the window.

might go back next week and pull out the air control modules

They did have a CL-S that was fairly fresh with a ok drivers seat - had a rip in the front. think if I am a little patient i can find a really good one.

shawn.m

Well I went to put in the cabin air filters tonight. The originals were still in. Had to cut the little panel tabs to get at the air filters.
Put them in and voila lots more ai moving through the system.

Moved onto to the srs light. Followed the instructions and got it turned off. Sure it will come back from one of the seat buckles. We will see.

One front abs sensor is in mail. Hopefully other front one will be here soon.

shawn.m

got a great deal today on a drivers seat. $100!
only one small tear in front.
threw it in and hooked it up.
seat heater works on seat botom. low heat on seat back.
aand reset srs light.
aand it stayed off ! =) happy dance !
then on to the trunk. bolt tire down. then put all the panels back in and bolted down.

shawn.m

picture of seat
So the interior is pretty much done. The only thing left is the stereo not sounding the best. Researching that one right now. I don't want to spend a ton of money but do want to make the stereo sound better while keeping the steering wheel controls.

Need some advice on this one.

Also odd problem- the rear armrest does not stay up all the time. It was up and I nailed the brakes and the arm came down. So anything to do to keep it up?

Need to post up some of the parts for sale, seat, arm rest, old visors, seat back in perfect shape, door panel - drivers side, seat covers brand new. PO paid $100 for them. I hate seat covers so these are going. Need to post everything up.

shawn.m

I also need to work on the tl . I bought 3 more quarts of redline , filter and a can of brake cleaner in prep to drain and refill. Plus pull 4th and 3rd gear pressure switches. Hoping that will clear that up.

Plus pulled down the TL air box and inspected it. It's tons better than the ones in junk yard , so going to slap it back on. Pull off the CAI and move that over. I think that the hum from the CAI is quieter tha the hum from the air box with out resonator.

shawn.m

Swapped over the CAI to the CL

Interesting that the sound is less than the open air box. Maybe a little more power but the car still feels like it is learning.

I will transfer over the under drive pulley once I get the wheel lock nut next week. Maybe take off the under drive pulley if I can remember where I put the stock belts.
The header is a bigger job. Maybe do it two stages - swap off the header this weekend and then put it on the cl next weekend.

Also tested the front abs sensors and they test ok. So possible it's the abs module and pump.

shawn.m

Installed CAI

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I enjoyed reading the thread...a real garage diy mechanic!

shawn.m

I 'vet been working on cars, tractors farm implements since I was 10 when I built my first go cart
Some people watch tv, I tinker

Well today was a interesting one. Lots of work
I drained the tranny oil - it was really black.
Pulled and replaced filter.
Then pulled battery, battery box, battery box brace and negative cable. Plus I already had air box removed. Lots of room to work now.phone was dead so no pictures.
Now went through all the speed sensors, pressure sensors and shift solinoids. pulled and Cleaned all of them with brake cleaner one at a time. Then blow each of them out with air and wipe them off with paper towels.
Started with some trans-X first and then 3 quarts of redline high temp ATF
Re assemble all of it.
Put radio code back in and start it all up.
Did a 20 mile loop. Doesn't seem to have the 4-5th gear dither. But it seems that it flared on 3rd gear. Once or twice. Maybe I need to just drive it to work next week one or two days.

Agrvitating.
Might have time to pull the header off tomorrow. Depends on the wife's errands list. Plus I need to fix my wife's f150 drivers side window as it broke today.

shawn.m

researched and found the paper clip jumper method to pull ABS codes. basically put a Paper clip in port 4 and 9 in the OBD2 port.

I also found a 2nd method in the service manual that I might also try

I attached screen shots of the ABS DTC codes

got codes 51`,53, 72, 83

51 is motor lock, 53 is motor stuck on
will go test later today - basically ABS pump motor shot if fuse is good.

72 and 83 are not in the service manual - researching those right now

shawn.m

ok used the following method to clear the codes
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...-light-912479/

codes cleared but yellow triangle is still their. TCS button does do anything either.
so will drive it for a longer loop later today and test brakes to see if ABS kicks on

If ABS lights come back will order a ABS pump motor.

shawn.m

Ordered a used abs pump tonight. Only $18 delievered. Might even grab another one just in case.

Getting 25 mpg so far in my 110 mile daily round trip commute. Pretty pleased so far. Wondering what's going to happen once I transfer the header over. Liking how smooth the car is during the different phases of back roads, freeway and city.

Put the tl up for sale as I need to sell one of my extra cars. So either the tl or the outback needs to go away.

shawn.m

Funny the used abs pump works in the tl but not the cl-s. Different line routing.

Got the tl up on jack stands and removed the header. Then reinstalled the stock manifolds and j pipe. It wasn't as bad the second time around,. May have to see how the gaskets work when reused. Might go pick up new manifold gaskets just to make sure every thing seals well. Will pull off the underdrive pulley and belts tomorrow. Then put the stock pulley and belts back on.

Still waiting on lug nut adapter to come from shop. Will give them a call Monday.

So will try and get the stock manifolds off the cl tomorrow and the header on tomorrow.

If I get really motivated will take apart the spare motor intake manifold.

shawn.m

so the TL is almost completely back to stock. Header and J-Pipe is off with stock stuff back on.
The rear exhaust manifold gasket did not want to come off. Instead of forcing it i just left it and bolted up the the stock rear stock manifold. Just means that will have to probably order a new set of exhaust manifold gaskets.

The front gasket was in pretty good shape with a little bit of blow by on one side. Trying to decide if going to move over the O2 sensor from the CL or use the new one that i had previously installed on the OBX header J-pipe. That is the last thing that needs to go on the TL.

I also pulled off the Underdrive pulley and belts. The pulley was really hard to pull off. I had to get a small pry bar under the back of the pulley and tap it while pulling.

Moved that over to the CL and bolted that all up with the short belts needed by the smaller underdrive pulley.

Interesting pictures show the difference in size and also in weight. Anytime you take 7lbs off your crankshaft your going to gain some power.

GroundedCustom

Mr.White, thats madd funny. I laughed in a good way!

Whats funny as i started to read your post about your kid and swapping parts for his ride, i said, this guys like, "old". But i also got that warm feeling like , your the type of father i grew up with. Always willing to help and make sh!t happen

Good Luck with it alll

I also had a coupe DA, with a b16 dohc and i use to ripp that thing. Never cud kill it. Just axles.

shawn.m

yeah the funny thing is that my son has gone with me to the Autorama in Sac - 2nd biggest car custom show on west coast since he was 4 years old. So he has been around custom stuff for a long time. Now that he has he drivers permit and he is driving the TL, I keep asking him does he want the TL or moms subi outback.
He said he really doesn't care as long as it is reliable. dude ! what the heck? how have i failed?
then he redeemed himself by saying he does want a 69-72 el camino. Just not has a daily driver. ok ok didn't fail completely

shawn.m

Ordered set of exhaust gaskets from Napa. Will pick them up tomorrow. Pulled O2 sensor off CL and moved it over to tl. Started tl and no codes. Yeah!

Jumped in cl real quick. Dropped j pipe, pulled exhaust covers front and rear. Pulled the front manifold off. Used the old good gasket and bolted in front header.
Now on to the pain of the rear manifold. Got that off after scraping up arm.
Just a pain in the tush to get at all the bolts when they were nice and tight.
Might have time wensday night to finish it off. Hopefully.

Called a transmission shop on a price on a tranny. Only $825 out the door. Thinking the 2005-2007 accord tranny is a better deal.

shawn.m

aggh killing me to not have the CL back together -been driving my wifes outback this week. Really curious to finish it tonight and see how it runs with Header and underdrive pulley.

shawn.m

Ok everything is back together.
Refollowed the instructions for the header install that we all follow.
Went back together pretty easy. Once I figured out how to get my arm and ratchet back to the bolts.
Pulled fee "13 to reset the ecu
Took it for a slow drive at first and then nailed it a bunch to get it going.
It really wakes up and takes off now. It just builds speed very quickly.
I have a half mile up hill run that I do, it picked up speed a bunch over last week. After a 2 miles of gong hard on my twisty county roads the brakes were fading.
Glad I got the lug nut key this week.

Next week will stop my SAMs club to get the tires balenced. Really thinking of getting the 235/45/17 tires. Depends how my eBay store selling goes this week.