S/C pulley misaligned w/Alt. pulley by 1mm
05-06-2016, 11:37 PM
#42
Pro
iTrader: (6)
Interesting.
1) Are your concerns of '...not keeping the engine in its operating temp range...' relative to your more northern location?
2) In addition, what would constitute a '...cold start table...' range the ECU would get 'stuck within' (for the lack of a better word) to hamper a SC'ed engines performance, such as the J32, with a heat generating blower in operation?
My fans, in heavy traffic, come on at 186 degrees and go off at around 170, or so, without the A/C on. That's with the mugen cooling mods and a CSF aluminium radiator in S. FL heat.
1) Are your concerns of '...not keeping the engine in its operating temp range...' relative to your more northern location?
2) In addition, what would constitute a '...cold start table...' range the ECU would get 'stuck within' (for the lack of a better word) to hamper a SC'ed engines performance, such as the J32, with a heat generating blower in operation?
My fans, in heavy traffic, come on at 186 degrees and go off at around 170, or so, without the A/C on. That's with the mugen cooling mods and a CSF aluminium radiator in S. FL heat.
When you start you car and the temp is below a set point the maps that are used have an increased ideal, dump way more fuel and have different timing. If it does not reach normal operating temp and the vehicle runs on these maps for much time at all you can wash out the cylinder walls. Its like running a chain saw with the choke still on.
That interesting about the fan temps. It was my impression then the Mugun Therm and fan switch operated at 160F maybe I miss read. I wish CSF still made the aluminium radiators! What temp do you maintain cruising on the HWY?
I did a little monitoring today on a 150 mile trip. Air temp was 71F I maintained 181 - 185 coolant temp on the HWY. I stopped to fill up with gas and get my kids some food so about 15min of stop and go with idling and my coolant temp shot up to 204. It only took about 30 -45 seconds on the HWY for the temp to drop back in the 180-185 range.
A flush and new coolant could not hurt. The other thing I noticed with the SC is that the coolant lines get a little melted on the out side because they pass so close to the bottom of the SC, so last time I had the SC off I used some heat tape around the coolant lines in that location.
05-07-2016, 08:53 AM
#43
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
I live in NC see I'm not really that far North and we see any were from -10 to 100+ degree temps.
When you start you car and the temp is below a set point the maps that are used have an increased ideal, dump way more fuel and have different timing. If it does not reach normal operating temp and the vehicle runs on these maps for much time at all you can wash out the cylinder walls. Its like running a chain saw with the choke still on.
When you start you car and the temp is below a set point the maps that are used have an increased ideal, dump way more fuel and have different timing. If it does not reach normal operating temp and the vehicle runs on these maps for much time at all you can wash out the cylinder walls. Its like running a chain saw with the choke still on.
My ScanguageII shows a coolant temp of 170F running at 75mph highway speeds. The only time I can get that 170F temp to drop further, at highway speed, is when I turn the A/C temp knob all the way to the right or hottest setting with the AC off. Then the temp reading will drop to average around 167-169F. I usually have that AC temp set to 72F all the time when off.
Now as mentioned, for example, if I pull off the highway and sit at a light waiting for it to change, the coolant temp will climb to 186F and that's when I feel the fans bump on. Shortly after that, I can see the reading going down on the ScangaugeII drop to at or below 170F then the fans go off. Once I get going again, say, in regular traffic, the temp stays in the mid to upper 170's and, of course, usually starts to climb again when sitting still . The IAT temps, especially on a hot day, will vary widely between 130 & 150F.
Last edited by zeta; 05-07-2016 at 09:02 AM.
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03 tls nc (05-07-2016)
05-10-2016, 12:14 PM
#44
From my understanding, don't the still have some in stock for the CL. I believe a guy from the Facebook page recently bought one and said everything fit fine. I definitely plan on getting one of those.
How about methanol injection? Ever considered that? Also, are you guys still on the CT ESM? Or what engine management are you running or have tried to run? I may experiment with the boomslang and AEM Fic 6
How about methanol injection? Ever considered that? Also, are you guys still on the CT ESM? Or what engine management are you running or have tried to run? I may experiment with the boomslang and AEM Fic 6
05-10-2016, 12:38 PM
#45
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
I believe most are on the comptech ESM, which isn't really tuning. The only success stories I've read about are the emanage blue and the AEM EMS by dezod: AEM EMS Acura CL Type S 01-03
Many have tried and failed other tuning options. They're all designed around the automatics which use different sensors.
Methanol would be great, but I wouldn't try it unless I was tuned.
Many have tried and failed other tuning options. They're all designed around the automatics which use different sensors.
Methanol would be great, but I wouldn't try it unless I was tuned.
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