RL Calipers Fit behind 05 TL 17" rims!
#89
Whats up with RDX owners?
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The price of the swap all depends on what rotors and pads you go with, and the biggest variable is the price of the calipers.
SS lines arent needed, but I recommend them. The rubber lines are at least 7 years old, and rubber deteriorates. Go with either Goodridge or Russell.
#90
Whats up with RDX owners?
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#91
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yea but all things considered I'd say for daily drivers the stock lines are good enough for what ppl will be asking for. no doubt.
stainless steel lines are way to strong for daily driving brake input so why get them... plus they can deteriorate in the future since the coating on the metal isn't sufficient to last a long time. I had that shit on my probe and only lasted like a year with my driving.
so I don't think they are as good as people make them out to be cause they are not.
I bought the really good ones and they still ended up breaking like a pos. so honestly they are not all the talk people make them out to be.
I dislike them to be honest, they are not long lasting thus they are money wasted in my humble opinion.
stainless steel lines are way to strong for daily driving brake input so why get them... plus they can deteriorate in the future since the coating on the metal isn't sufficient to last a long time. I had that shit on my probe and only lasted like a year with my driving.
so I don't think they are as good as people make them out to be cause they are not.
I bought the really good ones and they still ended up breaking like a pos. so honestly they are not all the talk people make them out to be.
I dislike them to be honest, they are not long lasting thus they are money wasted in my humble opinion.
Stainless steel lines > OEM rubber lines, and they will last longer.
Research first then post, because when you talk you make it seems like you don't know what you are talking about.
#93
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Including the pads and fluid flush I have less than 650 into this. The calipers came with usable pads and the fluid was clean but I chose to do it.
The SS lines were also a choice, I got them on sale for 98.00 delivered. The Goodrich were out of stock but available for 10.00 more and the rep said the difference was indistinguishable (I was willing to wait for them, they would have made $ yet he said it was not necessary, there was no difference).
The pads can take up to 1k miles to fully seat yet the brakes feel much better. I am very happy with my results.
The SS lines were also a choice, I got them on sale for 98.00 delivered. The Goodrich were out of stock but available for 10.00 more and the rep said the difference was indistinguishable (I was willing to wait for them, they would have made $ yet he said it was not necessary, there was no difference).
The pads can take up to 1k miles to fully seat yet the brakes feel much better. I am very happy with my results.
#95
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Nothing. I already have Frozen slotted rotors back there which are bigger & thicker than OEM. The brakes are working great and I am not an engineer.
No BBK changes the MC or system bias. I have done this type of mod in countless cars, the only one I changed anything else on was my 325 (put a 750MC in that had a 5mm larger piston bore) which made no real difference.
No BBK changes the MC or system bias. I have done this type of mod in countless cars, the only one I changed anything else on was my 325 (put a 750MC in that had a 5mm larger piston bore) which made no real difference.
#96
B A N N E D
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Nothing. I already have Frozen slotted rotors back there which are bigger & thicker than OEM. The brakes are working great and I am not an engineer.
No BBK changes the MC or system bias. I have done this type of mod in countless cars, the only one I changed anything else on was my 325 (put a 750MC in that had a 5mm larger piston bore) which made no real difference.
No BBK changes the MC or system bias. I have done this type of mod in countless cars, the only one I changed anything else on was my 325 (put a 750MC in that had a 5mm larger piston bore) which made no real difference.
but yes it does, maybe not the pressures inside the system, but now your front brankes are more effective from the larger piston (not much really compared to stock, but still has a larger surface area) but the real thing that will upset the balance is the fact that you got an rotor that is over an inch larger the stock, so really you need less force to actually have it brake at the same force (on the front axle) as stock , which the back is still basically doing (the upgraded rotors do help some, but not enough to offset the more powerful fronts), let alone the rear can take more braking force just from the less weight transfer from being lowered
so if you really want to stop faster, the rears need to be upgraded more to balance the braking out more
#97
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Master Cylinder.
The breaks are working great. The MC sends the fluid to the ABS pump, the ABS system sends the pressure needed to the wheels as needed.
My primary interest and reason for this mod was to increase efficiency & the ability of the brakes to wick off heat. (that they look cool is a bonus) It gets hot here before the brakes are applied.
These components are larger & the calipers are aluminum both things that make cooling better.
I have no intention of messing with the logic/proportioning part of the system.
The breaks are working great. The MC sends the fluid to the ABS pump, the ABS system sends the pressure needed to the wheels as needed.
My primary interest and reason for this mod was to increase efficiency & the ability of the brakes to wick off heat. (that they look cool is a bonus) It gets hot here before the brakes are applied.
These components are larger & the calipers are aluminum both things that make cooling better.
I have no intention of messing with the logic/proportioning part of the system.
#99
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You need a rotor with the parking brake drum.
#101
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I looked all over and decided to leave it alone before I did the swap. Now that I have had it for a few days it feels great and as the pads seat and the computer learns the changes it can only get better.
I am going to leave it alone.
I am going to leave it alone.
#103
B A N N E D
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i know the 350z has the correct diameter for the parking brake (actually it is 1mm bigger, but should be able to make that up with adjustments), but the biggest thing i would say is i don't know if it is deep/wide enough for the drum's shoes, also the rotor might have the wrong offset too, but if it needs a bracket to move the caliper for the larger rotor, it should be no problem to recenter the caliper
#106
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#110
B A N N E D
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and i still prefer solid rotors over drums
the newest tl's, even the awd ones, i think are still solid. and the newest rl's i think do have vented
a big part for rear vented is the static weight distribition, and how much weight is on that axle
a bigger brake was not needed back there , even then they geneally seem to last through 1-2 sets of front brakes
#111
lowrd on tein CS biatch
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i just compare it to my last car (probe) and the rears were same thickness basically and just the diameter of the rotor was a bit larger, and the calipers themselves are roughly the same also. (on the rear of the car).... front is a whole different story.
so 2900ibs vs 3450lbs equals my question.. but i get where ur coming from. It is overkill. but it should at least be an option i think imho
so 2900ibs vs 3450lbs equals my question.. but i get where ur coming from. It is overkill. but it should at least be an option i think imho
#112
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stock wise i also think we got a pretty soft suspension, so more weight transfer happens when you brake (idk bought my car already lowered)
also it depends on the manufacture of how much front bias they actually want, with how much sooner the front will lockup before the rears do (so they can vary how hard it is to bring the back end around when stupid people do brake in the middle of a courner)
also it depends on the manufacture of how much front bias they actually want, with how much sooner the front will lockup before the rears do (so they can vary how hard it is to bring the back end around when stupid people do brake in the middle of a courner)
#113
lowrd on tein CS biatch
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honestly I got just the rear sway bar and new moog links, and honsetly it's not bad. the sway is very minimal.
I got more than I expected for sure. So i opted not to buy the suspension, and hold out till something gives
but as for ur point relating to braking i gotcha. car leans front brakes do way more and rears become useless.
like a bicycle.
I got more than I expected for sure. So i opted not to buy the suspension, and hold out till something gives
but as for ur point relating to braking i gotcha. car leans front brakes do way more and rears become useless.
like a bicycle.
Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 01-02-2010 at 05:48 PM.
#114
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Here are some better pictures.
#118
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The 350z does not have slotted rotors stock from 03-08 including the nismo Z. I don't know about the 09 370z. As for the proportioning valve, I used to have a stoptech 14" BBK on my 07' 350z and it had a proportioning valve since I only purchased the front kit. This is to correct the brake bias. Trust me, if you install only the front kit it'll throw off your brake bias. If you call stoptech, rotora, or even brembo, they will tell you the same thing.
Here's a picture of the OEM 07 nismo rotor.
Here's a picture of the OEM 07 nismo rotor.
#119
Whats up with RDX owners?
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Believe me, I know that the brake bias is changed with the BBK. Ive installed larger brakes on other cars, and Ive upgraded from drums to discs on my Civic. But what do you suggest we use to adjust bias?
#120
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No one said the bias did not change, and no one said the slotted rotors were OEM.
I have larger than stock rear rotors and more aggressive pads which increase the stopping potential of the rears.
ABS is taking care of the rest.
The brakes work great.
Civic, I think your dog needs a dentist.
I have larger than stock rear rotors and more aggressive pads which increase the stopping potential of the rears.
ABS is taking care of the rest.
The brakes work great.
Civic, I think your dog needs a dentist.