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I’ve been here for a while but haven’t done any mods to my car The car has been great to me. She’s a 2003 CLS6 with about 110K on the clock. NO major issues and nothing but reliability. I had recently been thinking about selling to get something else but I can’t get rid of my baby. I don’t want monthly payments and to be honest I’d kick myself in the rear if I sold this reliable car for another less reliable car.
I am a point where I need new tires, rotors, and brake pads so i just decided that I’d do a BBK with ungraded wheels. I found the calipers and wheels locally within the same week (a sign from the CLS gods). Still need to buy the brackets, rotors, and pads. Here are some pics. The seller also does caliper rebuilds and paint jobs so I might bring them back to get them done. The orange caliper is a example of his work and I’m considering the orange but not sure how it will look on the car. Enjoy the pictures and I’m glad that I can slowly contribute to this useful site.
There are also a set of AMR coilovers available in my area for a silly 800 bucks. Original price from AMR is $1,5000.
Any advice/ considerations in regards to my mods will be much appreciated.
I like love the rims and like you I'm in need of rotors so the RL calipers will be installed at the same time. I do like the orange paint but I don't know how well it goes with your car. You will need to lower it for sure once you install those rims though. I recently installed Tein Basis and think they are a quality, comfortable product for the price.
One of the reasons why I don't even consider new paint. Less worry and not as appealing to thieves. That's not to say I wouldn't be extremely pissed to come out and find a big dent or broken lights. Once I'm inside, the exterior means nothing.
Enjoy the BBK... I think you need to be road racing or tracking for that. My stock brakes work extremely well but I don't have to worry about fade driving on the street.
One of the reasons why I don't even consider new paint. Less worry and not as appealing to thieves. That's not to say I wouldn't be extremely pissed to come out and find a big dent or broken lights. Once I'm inside, the exterior means nothing.
Enjoy the BBK... I think you need to be road racing or tracking for that. My stock brakes work extremely well but I don't have to worry about fade driving on the street.
Having increased stopping power off the track is not a bad thing. My rotor are trashed and I needed new brake pads so I said what the hell. I just need to actually get to starting my projects. I have too many parts just laying around
New wheels. RJ Servos. I have wanted these for a while and finally found them. They will not clear the calipers but maybe with some spacers but I foresee another set of wheels once I have all the BBK parts
New wheels. RJ Servos. I have wanted these for a while and finally found them. They will not clear the calipers but maybe with some spacers but I foresee another set of wheels once I have all the BBK parts
How much did you pick up those RJ's for? Great looking wheels!! Any pics?
Man i cant believe this thread is still around! It never got finished because my wife got cancer and passed away. I have a new project coming soon though. Ls 300zx.
Man i cant believe this thread is still around! It never got finished because my wife got cancer and passed away. I have a new project coming soon though. Ls 300zx.
I'm really sorry to read this. Hope you're staying strong man. My grandfather passed away about a year or so ago and it's definitely difficult. Build that LS 300zx though and make it a show stopper!
Hi Guys!
What is the benefit of using J32A2 heads with J35A3 block? Will it give more power to engine? I have MDX 2002 with J35A3 and would like to tune it :-)
Hi Guys! What is the benefit of using J32A2 heads with J35A3 block? Will it give more power to engine? I have MDX 2002 with J35A3 and would like to tune it :-)
The quote below gives an idea. It came from the thread below; therefore, if you have not reviewed it yet there is discussion there as well. In addition, although the J32A2 heads and cams may have a benefit over the J35A3 heads, I'm thinking that the '02 MDX ECU may not be able to fully utilize said benefits because of it's milder tune parameters versus the ECU in a Type-S CL / TL.
Both blocks are the same. The only difference in the oil pumps is the pressure valve and spring, the J32A2 parts can be purchased for around $20. The coolant crossover manifold is different but can be made to work. The EGR valves are different and must correspond to the appropriate ECU. Of course the crank, rods and pistons are different. J35A3 has forged crank and rods but they are not comparable to after market forged rods but still better than cast (J32A2 has forged crank only). The heads are the same castings and use the same valve seats even thought the J32 uses a 1mm larger intake vale (with a valve job the smaller valve will flow more, due to less shrouding). Lost motion assemblies were updated for the 03 J32. The cams and springs are different (J32 springs are considerably stronger). The intake of the J35 utilizes are 1" spacer between the upper and lower runners and the upper intake is the same between the two with the exception of the longer trumpets used on the J35 (produces more torque below peak). The TBs are the same with the exception of the MAP sensors and the corresponding MAP sensor must be used with the correct TB (both use the same plug).
If forced induction is in your future use the J35A3. Clean up the casting marks in the intake tract but do not increase the size and enjoy the lower static compression and cams with less over lap. (upgrade the oil pressure spring and valve for good measure)
For some NA fun on the cheap start with J35A3 use J32A2 cams and springs, port from the J35A3 IM to the valves, valve job and mill the head. (.010" is approximately equal to 0.25:1 static compression with J35 rotating assembly). I milled mine to 0.030" with no valve clearance issues and an estimated 10.75:1 static compression (no issues achieving correct mechanical timing with 0.030" milled). I also upgraded the oil pressure spring and valve in the bottom of the oil pump.
Assuming that even if you don't separate the heads and run the long block as is replacing all exterior seals and gaskets only makes good since. Since you have to pull the pan to replace the the gaskets behind the oil pump and pickup, removing one allen plug and dropping the J32A2 oil pressure spring and valve in place is some really cheap insurance.
09-20-2015, 08:41 PM
The car has been great to me. She’s a 2003 CLS6 with about 110K on the clock. NO major issues and nothing but reliability. I had recently been thinking about selling to get something else but I can’t get rid of my baby. I don’t want monthly payments and to be honest I’d kick myself in the rear if I sold this reliable car for another less reliable car. 
Its from a 2003 Accord Coupe
Any pics?
