Is my clutch toast ?

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Old 06-02-2015, 06:14 PM
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3.7L Nitrous Breathing CL
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Is my clutch toast ?

removed my trans to install gears and seen my sac PP was adjusted almost all the way out compared to way I set it so I decided to take a closer look.
This is after 220 miles and I didnt beat it till 200 miles on the motor only.







Old 06-02-2015, 06:26 PM
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Holy heatspots!

I always thought 1000 miles for a clutch burn in was necessary, 200 seems a bit premature to start beating it.

Any abnormal slipping between gear shifts?

Apples to oranges - I don't have near the horsepower & torque output as your J, that flywheel & clutch looks toast.

Here's mine for comparison and mine slipped under hard shifts (60,000 miles of abuse)

Old 06-02-2015, 07:46 PM
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I don't think they made any clutches out of bread/toast.

It looks like because you have the solid center disc instead of a sprung center it might be more prone to that abrupt initial hit. No give at all.
Old 06-03-2015, 08:48 AM
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200 mile break in is all? Always have done 1000 mile. It's really about heat cycling but for most, going by miles is a good way to make sure everything is bedded properly.

Still looks pretty bad for 250 miles.
Old 06-03-2015, 09:27 AM
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Looks to me like the clutch was never fully disengaging. Did you ever take my tip about the spacer for the master or pedal?

I've never adjusted any clutch i've installed on these cars, but they've all been stock with the exception of the p2r disc (which sucked in every aspect)
Old 06-03-2015, 09:50 AM
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Yes I'm pretty sure clutch was disengaging just fine.
Never had a problem with it going in gear parked not running or when running down the road.
And yes I used the spacer.
Pretty sure its glazed, like material filled the groves that were on the PP and now the marks are really slick spots.

I just seen clutchmasters offers a fx400 disc and PP for the oem fly wheel,Is the oem glazed flywheel fixable by trying to sand it a bit then just do a new PP and disc OR,
should I just just toss everything and suck it up and unfold the wallet on a complete fx400 kit with the flywheel.
I've read that dual mass flywheels dont like to be resurfaced and even if I found someone that would resurface it that it would end up warped.

Last edited by richardparker; 06-03-2015 at 09:53 AM.
Old 06-03-2015, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by richardparker
I just seen clutchmasters offers a fx400 disc and PP for the oem fly wheel,Is the oem glazed flywheel fixable by trying to sand it a bit then just do a new PP and disc OR,.
If you go the route of getting the fx400 disc and PP for the oem fly wheel and decide to get a new fly wheel, RockAuto has the LUK DMF063 for $205 before shipping.

If you try to salvage the oem flywheel and get the fx400disc/PP, I guess it is just a question of pulling the motor/tranny to get at it once again IF it (the salvaged oem flywheel) turns out to give you further problems. You stated in your build thread that you were getting pretty fast at pulling the motor/tranny.

Originally Posted by richardparker
should I just just toss everything and suck it up and unfold the wallet on a complete fx400 kit with the flywheel.
In the long run, labor wise this sounds like the better idea, that way it is done one time and you are set to go with your high performance set-up and your new drive gear mod.

What will it be around $1500-2000 for the fx400 kit with flywheel?

I see in the other thread regarding the new drive gear that you asked whether or not to change the diff bearings while you were in the tranny. What did you decide? Just curious.

Last edited by zeta; 06-03-2015 at 11:02 AM.
Old 06-03-2015, 11:57 AM
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I did not get any bearings because I was not able to get none to me till a week min after ordered.
They all had the same story they had to order them from a ware house then send them to me.

I found the fx400 disc, pressure plate and new oem flywheel for 789.05 shipped.
thats a good price.
Also found the whole fx400 kit for 1125 shipped again great price but like 350 differance.
I would hate not getting the lw flywheel for racing if its needed but, is the extra $350 justified to get it when at this time the cheaper option I can handle, the more expensive option would dent my pocket at the time.

Last edited by richardparker; 06-03-2015 at 12:00 PM.
Old 06-03-2015, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by richardparker
I did not get any bearings because I was not able to get none to me till a week min after ordered.
They all had the same story they had to order them from a ware house then send them to me.
LOL, the online dealer website people told me the same thing when I called them after ordering a shit ton of other parts from them. They said these diff bearings were not something the dealers keep in physical inventory and it would be a week before they came from Honda in Ohio. So I had to wait the week and got them for when I have my 6-speed checked over and put these in along with any thing else that is found. Thanks for the response.

Originally Posted by richardparker
I found the fx400 disc, pressure plate and new oem flywheel for 789.05 shipped.
thats a good price.
Also found the whole fx400 kit for 1125 shipped again great price but like 350 differance.
I would hate not getting the lw flywheel for racing if its needed but, is the extra $350 justified to get it when at this time the cheaper option a can handle, the more expensive option would dent my pocket at the time.
Those are some good prices. Will be watching to see your final decision, good luck.
Old 06-03-2015, 06:48 PM
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I ended up getting the 08028-HDB6-R clutch kit separate for the oem flywheel.

But I got screwed .
Had the clutch kit and flywheel in separate carts.
Dropped cash in the bank got home bought the clutch kit.
Went to buy the flywheel and I could not buy it,cart showed empty and it was no longer in stock from rockauto.
To get another oem one shipped its going to be another 100 + shipping more.
If I was going to pay that much I would've bought the whole kit for another 150 at top of that.
Complete BS and now I cant even get a CM flywheel because the kit I bought was for a DM flywheel.
I need to find the oem flywheel cheap,such BS.
Old 06-03-2015, 07:30 PM
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Found other oem flywheel for only another $33 more than I was expecting to pay.
Its on the way.
Maybe this time I'll take it easy shifting the hell of out it at low rpms.
I'll have to start riding around every parking lot I see to get as many shifts as I can in.

If anyone wants any of the clutch parts I removed I'll sell them cheap.
I'm sure in the right hands they could do something with them.

Last edited by richardparker; 06-03-2015 at 07:34 PM.
Old 06-03-2015, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by richardparker
Went to buy the flywheel and I could not buy it,cart showed empty and it was no longer in stock from rockauto.
Man, they sure go fast at RockAuto at that price. The closest price to the $205 at RA I could find was $219.70 before shipping at Carolina clutch.

Originally Posted by richardparker
Maybe this time I'll take it easy shifting the hell of out it at low rpms.
You gotta treat her like a nice heavy Cadillac this time around and be patient. She'll scream for you soon enough after a smoooooth break-in, lol.
Old 06-03-2015, 08:13 PM
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When I broke in my clutch, I went 2 tanks of gas before stomping it. I do 95% city driving so that helped too.

Also, make sure you don't give gas till its fully disengaged. Literally drive like a grandma lol. Drove me nuts
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