Headlight problem
#1
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Headlight problem
Hey guys, my passenger HID hasn't been working for some time. Today I got the bumper off finally to test some things. I tested the wires and there is no power going to the ballast. I swapped fuses and it's not the fuse. What else could cause no power to go to through the wires?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Drifting
Under hood fuse box.
Same box as the HL fuses. On the same end there are 3 rectangle relays in a row. The two outer most at the end are HL relays. Swap the two relays. If the drivers HL don't work after swapping them then you've found your problem. Replace the relay. If not then it's going to be the HL multiplex that's bad.
There are two multiplexes, one for each side. You should be able to do the same for the multiplexes too... I'm guessing.
The fuse will not power unless the relay is on.
Same box as the HL fuses. On the same end there are 3 rectangle relays in a row. The two outer most at the end are HL relays. Swap the two relays. If the drivers HL don't work after swapping them then you've found your problem. Replace the relay. If not then it's going to be the HL multiplex that's bad.
There are two multiplexes, one for each side. You should be able to do the same for the multiplexes too... I'm guessing.
The fuse will not power unless the relay is on.
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gnuts (07-04-2015)
#6
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
i was going to do that when i had the bumper off but i realized there is no power even getting to the ballast/headlight. They are aftermarket ballast and only a year old with lifetime warranty. I know they could still go, but i'm fairly certain the problem is elsewhere.
When you say the multiplex might be bad, do you mean that whole fuse box?
When you say the multiplex might be bad, do you mean that whole fuse box?
#7
Drifting
Not exactly. More like a connection in there some where.
My guess of swapping the muliplex is way incorrect. The two sides are not interchangeable.
The correct course of action now is to test the hid light first to determind if it's working or not. It would be a moot point in looking anywhere else if the light is broken.
There would be no way of telling if you fix the problem if the light cannot light up.
Not sure how you wired the after market HID. If it was OEM one would simply run a hot to the 20A fuse under the hood.
#43 is rt side HL
#45 is lt side HL
Junp the 20A fuse. The fuse has 2 sides... in this case one side is by the edge of the fuse box the other towards the center. Jump the terminal that is closer to the center. That way you are going through the fuse.
Even if it does not light up when you give it a hot. You also need to confirm the light has a good ground.
In other words supply both... power and ground.
My guess of swapping the muliplex is way incorrect. The two sides are not interchangeable.
The correct course of action now is to test the hid light first to determind if it's working or not. It would be a moot point in looking anywhere else if the light is broken.
There would be no way of telling if you fix the problem if the light cannot light up.
Not sure how you wired the after market HID. If it was OEM one would simply run a hot to the 20A fuse under the hood.
#43 is rt side HL
#45 is lt side HL
Junp the 20A fuse. The fuse has 2 sides... in this case one side is by the edge of the fuse box the other towards the center. Jump the terminal that is closer to the center. That way you are going through the fuse.
Even if it does not light up when you give it a hot. You also need to confirm the light has a good ground.
In other words supply both... power and ground.
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#8
Drifting
FYI
There are 2 multiplexes, driver/left and passenger/rt. They are separate module from the fuse panel as pictured below. It appears your problem is the circuit that triggers the relay is malfunctioning for whatever reason. Faculty multiplex, HL switch, wiring, etc.
The plex units are $187/$122... right/left.
You can do a work around for say $10.00 by adding a relay.
Simply power the rt HID with the new relay straight from the battery (fused) and use the hot power wire from the left HID as the hot trigger wire for the new relay.
Assuming the right HID is working of course.
There are 2 multiplexes, driver/left and passenger/rt. They are separate module from the fuse panel as pictured below. It appears your problem is the circuit that triggers the relay is malfunctioning for whatever reason. Faculty multiplex, HL switch, wiring, etc.
The plex units are $187/$122... right/left.
You can do a work around for say $10.00 by adding a relay.
Simply power the rt HID with the new relay straight from the battery (fused) and use the hot power wire from the left HID as the hot trigger wire for the new relay.
Assuming the right HID is working of course.
Last edited by 01acls; 07-06-2015 at 03:17 PM.
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gnuts (07-06-2015)
#10
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
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bringing this back. I finally got this thing sorted out. I took the whole headlight off to inspect and found that one of the wires going into the aftermarket ballast was fried at the connection. Like no male prong was there any more.
I bought a new aftermarket ballast and soldered it in and the headlight is on. However, I noticed while parked near a wall, that the light is shaking a little bit. Not flickering and there is a bit of a buzzing sound, not loud but it's there.
Would a bad ground have caused the first ballast to fry like that? I'm thinking that's what caused the first one to die and I don't want it to happen again. Where would the headlight be grounded to? Or would it be easier to wire one in near the headlight?
I bought a new aftermarket ballast and soldered it in and the headlight is on. However, I noticed while parked near a wall, that the light is shaking a little bit. Not flickering and there is a bit of a buzzing sound, not loud but it's there.
Would a bad ground have caused the first ballast to fry like that? I'm thinking that's what caused the first one to die and I don't want it to happen again. Where would the headlight be grounded to? Or would it be easier to wire one in near the headlight?
#11
Senior Moderator
bringing this back. I finally got this thing sorted out. I took the whole headlight off to inspect and found that one of the wires going into the aftermarket ballast was fried at the connection. Like no male prong was there any more.
I bought a new aftermarket ballast and soldered it in and the headlight is on. However, I noticed while parked near a wall, that the light is shaking a little bit. Not flickering and there is a bit of a buzzing sound, not loud but it's there.
Would a bad ground have caused the first ballast to fry like that? I'm thinking that's what caused the first one to die and I don't want it to happen again. Where would the headlight be grounded to? Or would it be easier to wire one in near the headlight?
I bought a new aftermarket ballast and soldered it in and the headlight is on. However, I noticed while parked near a wall, that the light is shaking a little bit. Not flickering and there is a bit of a buzzing sound, not loud but it's there.
Would a bad ground have caused the first ballast to fry like that? I'm thinking that's what caused the first one to die and I don't want it to happen again. Where would the headlight be grounded to? Or would it be easier to wire one in near the headlight?
wow.. did you crimp on a female 9006 connector to connect to the aftermaket ballast? that's the way to do it.
light shaking.. buzzing sound is usually pretty prevalent with aftermarket ballasts.
I think the male prong frying was due to a loose connection causing it to arc
Ground:
G301 and 201 are in their specific fenderwells. They're common body grounds.
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gnuts (09-21-2016)
#12
3.5 psi
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
good to know the slight buzzing is normal. It's fairly faint too. The first ballast I had used a crimp connector to link the oem wiring to the aftermarket 9006 connector that goes into the ballast. This time I soldered them and heat shrinked it after. But that part wasn't fried, only at the ballast connection. Sounds like you're right, it was a loose connection there causing heat.
I'm going to check that the bulb is secured properly in the housing, maybe it's vibrating because it's loose or something. Thanks,
I'm going to check that the bulb is secured properly in the housing, maybe it's vibrating because it's loose or something. Thanks,
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