allmotor_2000

I just did another OBX install today and hope I am not being redundant, but I think this might be the most efficient way of doing the install:

Tools:

(1) #12 Deep Socket & Ratchet
(2) #14 Socket & Sviwel (1/2") & Ratchet with 1' Extension
(3) #17 Socket (1/2")
(4) #12 wrench (the type with the end that looks like a 'Z' from the side - lets you stick the open side deeper)
(5) Liquid Wrench Spray
(6) #14/#17 wrench (6")
(7) #22 wrench (for O2 sensor)
(8) Needle-nose pliars
(9) Rags, blah, blah, blah
(10) Torque wrench and torque specifications

Estimated time (hand-tools): Above 2 to 2-1/2 hours... longer if some bolts are tight and give trouble!

Procedure:

(1) Jack the front of the car and place it on jack-stands
(2) Spray some liquid wrench on the manifold cover(s) and let it soak
(3) Use #12 ratchet for the three bolts on the front manifold cover
(4) Use #12 ratchet for the three bolts on the rear manifold cover
(5) Spray liquid wrench on the front & rear manifold bolts and let it soak
(6) Spray liquid wrench on the A-pipe bolts (3 on each side) and the three bolts on the catalytic convertor
(7) Looses all both sets of bolts (3 each) holding the A-pipe to the manifold (#14 1/2" socket with 1' extension - use swivel if needed)
(8) Remove Vibration Mount (two #14 bolts) from header
(9) Remove O2 from clip and unscrew (#22 wrench)
(10) Remove three bolts (#14) on Catalytic Convertor to A-pipe connection (the top one is tough... requires the swivel) - impact gun might help tremendously!!
(11) Remove A-pipe and put aside
(12) Remove all rear-manifold bolts from UNDER the car... use #12 deep socket - its the easiest way - take out manifold
(13) Remove all front-manifold bolts from ABOVE the car... use #12 deep socket - take out manifold
(14) Put OBX gasket (or if using Comptech... leave stock gasket) and mount front manifold - for Comptech, its the one with the CARB stamp; for OBX, its the one WITHOUT the stamp)
(15) Mount front manifold and screw in the nuts... DON'T tighten them - its the last step
(16) Put OBX gasket (or if using Comptech... leave stock gasket) and mount rear manifold - for Comptech, its the one without the CARB stamp; for the OBX, its the one WITH the stamp)
(17) Screw in rear manifold nuts... tighten from the inside top working out - because of the extended runners, its easier to tighten from ABOVE the car - use #12 deep socket
(18) Mount all O-rings on new A-pipe and position under the car
(19) Hold it up and place 1 nut on the FRONT manifold to hold the front up... do not tighten
(20) Insert rear of A-pipe into the catalytic convertor and screw in all three nuts... do not tighten
(21) Tighten all three nuts/bolts on the rear A-pipe to manifold connection - use a small 6" wrench to lodge the top while you tighten from underneath
(22) Put the remaining two nuts/bolts on the front A-pipe to manifold connection - use a small 6" wrench to lodge the top while you tighten from underneath (helps if someone holds it from the top)
(23) Mount vibration dampener to hook and tighten the two #14 bolts
(24) Screw in O2 sensor and tighten with #22 wrench... connect clip
(25) Tighten A-pipe to catalytic convertor nuts
(26) Tighten front-manifold nuts - start from the top and work outside
(27) Check for tools lying around and start the car... listen for leaks
(28) Re-check torque on all A-pipe & manifold bolts
(29) Remove jack-stands and lower car
(30) Test-Drive... and enjoy!!

YuppieCL

in your opinion, are there any true differences between the CT and OBX headers besides price?

who has the cheapest obx?

Titand19

nice write up allmotor.

Yuppie, the OBX are inferior in quality, but for the price you can't really go wrong.

allmotor_2000

Parameter OBX COMPTECH

Visual appearance 8 9
Visual Quality & Workmanship 6 9
Misc. parts utilized (nuts/bolts) 4 7
How it fits 6 8
Long-term durability 8 10
Price 10 7
CARB certification 1 10

If your particular OBX fits and it doesn't crack... its definately worth it. If you are worried about SMOG, get the Comptech. If you don't want any hassle for 6 years... get the Comptech.

darrinb

this should be stickied in the useful topics forum

i hope my obx's last...

Nashua_Night_Hawk

excllent DIY instructions!

allmotor_2000

Thanks... hope this can be useful!

SFLA_Type-S

How many lbs. did you torque the front/rear manifold & A-pipe?

Titand19

I think it's 25 lbs,

SFLA_Type-S

Thanks Titand19...I heard 23 lbs, can anyone else confirm? Is it 23, 25 or ??

BlueCLS6

Helms manual pg. 9-4... 23 ft-lbs.

Allout

Great write up Allmotor.

Manifold to A-pipe is 40 ft/lbs.
Manifold to Head is 23 ft/lbs.
A-Pipe to Cat is 25 ft/lbs.
Vibration mount is 16 ft/lbs. I think.

Also, don't forget the anti-seize on the O2 Sensor threads.

scalbert

Excellent write up.

My liquid wrench:

scalbert

Might I add that air tools are not required but are very helpful.

Sterling

:
To install headers for the rear bank, my mechanic said that there a motor mount support in the way of reaching the manifold bolts, and that he would have to take it off to do the install, what the way around having to take it off.
Thanks, Sterling

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

Going from the top probably. Shouldn't need to remove the rear mount, I didn't need it.

Scottyknows007

Depends on the header and the bend it has IMO. Mine had the bend but it wasn't a sharp enough bend, I tried getting it on there from above and below, finally came to the conclusion that I needed to loosen the mount and wiggle it on there. First time messing with the mount and really wasn't that hard.