Considering the 3.5l swap
09-16-2015, 06:20 PM
#1
Cruisin'
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Considering the 3.5l swap
So my cls is in need of an overhaul. Im looking through the forum to find ideally what is needed to make this swap happen but im perplexed on a few things in reference to if its a direct fit or not and the whole setup needed from start to finish so i can drop my car off to the mad scientist to do the install. The car is unfornately an automatic but can't complain due to the fact it's loaded with the bells and whistles. Right now the car has 102k on it with the timing belt being changed in two weeks. Any suggestions or a straight up link would be helpful. Thanks
09-16-2015, 09:04 PM
#2
3.5 psi
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First off don't change the timng belt if you're putting in a new engine soon. Buy a J35A3 and change the belt on that.
I've read more on the 3.5 manual, but I would guess its a direct drop in since both are automatic. I would consider an accord trans swap at the same time. Do it once right.
I've read more on the 3.5 manual, but I would guess its a direct drop in since both are automatic. I would consider an accord trans swap at the same time. Do it once right.
09-16-2015, 10:03 PM
#3
gnuts hit the nail on the head. The specific transmission he's referring to is a revised version of the one that's currently in your car. If it hasn't failed yet, it will. And if these things fail readily behind a 3.0 or 3.2 liter engine, it's going to get destroyed on that J35A3.
Don't get a J35A1 or J35A4 because the block is not as reinforced as the J35A3. The J35A3 block is actually the same casting as your current J32A2. And stay away from any J35 any newer, too. They can be swapped, but not without much more headache. The J35A3, as gnuts mentioned, is a 100% direct drop-in.
Swap the camshafts from your J32A2 into the J35A3 and consider whether or not you want to keep the J35A3 manifold spacer. Hood clearance might be an issue if you keep it. The camshafts will really wake this engine up and are part of the reason that the smaller J32A2 still has more power than its larger cousin.
Replace the timing belt, any worn tensioners, crankshaft an rear main seals, camshaft seals and any gaskets that are easy to reach. This will be much easier to do now, when your replacement engine is out of the car.
I just want to reiterate that you really should consider the transmission. The newer automatics from the 2006-2007 Accord V6 (along with a few others within those years-I hate giving out incorrect information) addressed many of the issues causing the constant failures of the earlier units are are nearly swap and go. I say nearly because a few things need to be taken off of the original and attached to the new before installation.
Don't get a J35A1 or J35A4 because the block is not as reinforced as the J35A3. The J35A3 block is actually the same casting as your current J32A2. And stay away from any J35 any newer, too. They can be swapped, but not without much more headache. The J35A3, as gnuts mentioned, is a 100% direct drop-in.
Swap the camshafts from your J32A2 into the J35A3 and consider whether or not you want to keep the J35A3 manifold spacer. Hood clearance might be an issue if you keep it. The camshafts will really wake this engine up and are part of the reason that the smaller J32A2 still has more power than its larger cousin.
Replace the timing belt, any worn tensioners, crankshaft an rear main seals, camshaft seals and any gaskets that are easy to reach. This will be much easier to do now, when your replacement engine is out of the car.
I just want to reiterate that you really should consider the transmission. The newer automatics from the 2006-2007 Accord V6 (along with a few others within those years-I hate giving out incorrect information) addressed many of the issues causing the constant failures of the earlier units are are nearly swap and go. I say nearly because a few things need to be taken off of the original and attached to the new before installation.
09-17-2015, 11:59 AM
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gnuts hit the nail on the head. The specific transmission he's referring to is a revised version of the one that's currently in your car. If it hasn't failed yet, it will. And if these things fail readily behind a 3.0 or 3.2 liter engine, it's going to get destroyed on that J35A3.
Don't get a J35A1 or J35A4 because the block is not as reinforced as the J35A3. The J35A3 block is actually the same casting as your current J32A2. And stay away from any J35 any newer, too. They can be swapped, but not without much more headache. The J35A3, as gnuts mentioned, is a 100% direct drop-in.
Swap the camshafts from your J32A2 into the J35A3 and consider whether or not you want to keep the J35A3 manifold spacer. Hood clearance might be an issue if you keep it. The camshafts will really wake this engine up and are part of the reason that the smaller J32A2 still has more power than its larger cousin.
Replace the timing belt, any worn tensioners, crankshaft an rear main seals, camshaft seals and any gaskets that are easy to reach. This will be much easier to do now, when your replacement engine is out of the car.
I just want to reiterate that you really should consider the transmission. The newer automatics from the 2006-2007 Accord V6 (along with a few others within those years-I hate giving out incorrect information) addressed many of the issues causing the constant failures of the earlier units are are nearly swap and go. I say nearly because a few things need to be taken off of the original and attached to the new before installation.
Don't get a J35A1 or J35A4 because the block is not as reinforced as the J35A3. The J35A3 block is actually the same casting as your current J32A2. And stay away from any J35 any newer, too. They can be swapped, but not without much more headache. The J35A3, as gnuts mentioned, is a 100% direct drop-in.
Swap the camshafts from your J32A2 into the J35A3 and consider whether or not you want to keep the J35A3 manifold spacer. Hood clearance might be an issue if you keep it. The camshafts will really wake this engine up and are part of the reason that the smaller J32A2 still has more power than its larger cousin.
Replace the timing belt, any worn tensioners, crankshaft an rear main seals, camshaft seals and any gaskets that are easy to reach. This will be much easier to do now, when your replacement engine is out of the car.
I just want to reiterate that you really should consider the transmission. The newer automatics from the 2006-2007 Accord V6 (along with a few others within those years-I hate giving out incorrect information) addressed many of the issues causing the constant failures of the earlier units are are nearly swap and go. I say nearly because a few things need to be taken off of the original and attached to the new before installation.
Thank you for the input. Im gonna keep the stock motor up to par until i do the swap. Being that this is my daily driver gotta make sure i have means to make it to work. The alternative is to get a beater until the swap is done. By any chance is there a difference with swapping out the ecu too or the stock one will compensate for the change?
09-17-2015, 01:01 PM
#5
09-18-2015, 10:41 PM
#6
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J35A3 is the way to go! Wish I would have done it sooner. If you don't have headers it is the perfect time. My auto trans was replaced by Acura around 80K it currently has over 280K with 40K being bolted to the J35. I have had no major problems. I performed a 3x3 trans flush when I swapped in the J35 and change 3 quarts with every oil change. I have been boosted now for close to 20K and when the day comes I will put the newest lowest mileage trans I can get from the yard ($500 - $600). Why spend money you don't need to spend. Its also my DD and I'm putting close to 3K miles a months on it currently. If your going to swap cams I would suggest gasket matching the intake track while your at it. The J35A5 EGR is not comparable (swap it off the J32). The water pipe connecting the two heads is different I swapped mine but Boostedorbusted made his work reconfiguring the heater core lines.
09-21-2015, 01:03 PM
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J35A3 is the way to go! Wish I would have done it sooner. If you don't have headers it is the perfect time. My auto trans was replaced by Acura around 80K it currently has over 280K with 40K being bolted to the J35. I have had no major problems. I performed a 3x3 trans flush when I swapped in the J35 and change 3 quarts with every oil change. I have been boosted now for close to 20K and when the day comes I will put the newest lowest mileage trans I can get from the yard ($500 - $600). Why spend money you don't need to spend. Its also my DD and I'm putting close to 3K miles a months on it currently. If your going to swap cams I would suggest gasket matching the intake track while your at it. The J35A5 EGR is not comparable (swap it off the J32). The water pipe connecting the two heads is different I swapped mine but Boostedorbusted made his work reconfiguring the heater core lines.
Just curious on how to tell if this is the J35a3 motor.
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2005_AcuraTL_Owner (05-09-2023)
09-21-2015, 04:18 PM
#11
The J35A3 we're discussing will only come from an '01-'02 Acura MDX.
There's also a version of J35A3 labeled L66 by Saturn in the VUE. You don't want that one, either.
There's also a version of J35A3 labeled L66 by Saturn in the VUE. You don't want that one, either.
03-23-2018, 05:47 PM
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03-23-2018, 08:06 PM
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05-09-2023, 05:25 PM
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05-09-2023, 08:49 PM
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06-30-2023, 12:49 PM
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CL0198 (07-01-2023)
06-30-2023, 12:53 PM
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Very bad idea. Why? Not only will a J35Y4 not bolt up to your transmission, but the engine controls are completely incompatible.
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CL0198 (07-01-2023)
07-01-2023, 02:31 AM
#22
ah thank you for the explanation. I will look into other options. I know the A3 is a very popular choice, but wouldnt the A8 be a better option? in terms of horsepower and torque
07-01-2023, 05:21 AM
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07-01-2023, 06:33 AM
#24
Suzuka Master
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People are informing you of the BEST possible transmission 'bolt-up' engine choice for your CL generation & you still don't get it.
If you were serious and had read the first seven or so post's, on this very thread & performed further adequate research, you'd realize (based on engine block to bellhousing configuration) this IS the OPTION for 'horsepower and torque'!
Last edited by zeta; 07-01-2023 at 06:38 AM.
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