JarrettLauderdale

It's not the battery. I know that this is the common culprit when someone leaves a car unused for a good portion of time, but it was a brand new battery installed in March, was placed on a trickle charger a few hours before the first attempt to start it back up and it sounds like the starter motors they use to start up race bikes and F1 cars. It has juice for days.

My girlfriend used the CL most of this summer to go back and forth to her internship after destroying the clutch on her Outback XT. It wasn't too long before she did the same to my car. The issue with skill level has been rectified by introducing her left foot to the dead pedal, so that's not a problem anymore. However, the car was parked a few hours away at my parent's old house and not used at all since mid-July.

Fast forward to yesterday. I put the car on the trickle charger before trying to start it. A few hours later I go to start the car and it cranks its heart out, but won't start. I don't mean sluggish at all. This thing is stout. I see that the fuel light is on so I put about 4 gallons of gas in it. I turn the key to "ON" a few times to let the pump prime and get fuel into the lines should that be the issue. The pump sounds strong and does its thing. Still nothing.

I'm now 3.5 hours away from the car again leaving my girlfriend to try and do diagnosis for me as I think of things. Based on what information I've given you, does anyone have anything they think could be likely?

The first question I would ask someone in my shoes is which codes are on, if any. The vehicle has been giving me EVAP codes since I've owned it (November 2015) which I believe is just valves needing to be adjusted. It's run fine with the occasional stall when suddenly decelerating. I'm not going to put money on it, but I don't think this is the problem suddenly keeping it from starting.

03-6/6

if the clutch shit the bed, it might have covered the crank sensor in bell housing with material. although i doubt it would cause a no start, you never know.

thoiboi

Main relay

JarrettLauderdale

Well, I think we've concluded the shortest investigation in history.

It was a lack of fuel remedied by priming the pump a few more times. I know I said I did it before, but apparently not enough. I wouldn't think a modern fuel-injected car with a healthy pump could drain that much gas back to the tank in only two months, but apparently it can. Thanks for the suggestions, you two!

@thoiboi

-Are main relays still a problem on Hondas of this vintage? I know on my CB7 it got to the point where we were telling guys left and right on the forums asking similar questions to check their relays without even hearing most of their symptoms. It was that common. In this instance, the fuel pump was working and you wouldn't hear it working if the relay was bad.

thoiboi

Yeah they were still bad in hr 2g CL and TL's. I believe the PGM-FI not only controls the fuel pump, but the starter as well as to why I suggested it. I might be wrong.

robsTLtype-s

did you solve the issue. Mine did the same if it will crank but not start. If this is the case, let me know because I can let you know the issue.

Tosh

Everything there is to know about your Honda/Acura main relay:
How the Main Relay works
When the Main Relay goes bad

robsTLtype-s

yes that was what mine was the immobilizer switch

03-6/6

mine wouldnt start just now after sitting 2-3 days, i have an aftermarket aeromotive 320lph pump. it did eventually start, but i couldnt hear the pump coming on.

ive had a random long crank in the past, but now its gotten worse. getting concerned about leaving my ass stranded,

norcalhonda

Definitely the main relay, I just replaced mine recently. From the weather to wear and tear, the solder points break down and the relay will no longer function properly. You have 2 options: purchase a new one or re-solder every point on the circuit board underneath the plastic cover. You will know that is the problem by turning your key to the "on position" and listening for your fuel pump to prime. If you don't hear anything then you know this is your problem. I hope this helps!

YeuEmMaiMai

any time you let the car sit you should

a. put it on a tender
b. when you go to start it. turn the key on for a few seconds, turn off, repeat about 5 times. This will build up fuel pressure while bleeding the system.

as for the main relay, you can remove it from it's plastic cover and re-solder all the joints and it will start working again in most cases. Honda had problems with cold solder joints on them in the past... if it works you have saved yourself $80 or so