CL-Future

Ok, how the hell do you remove the stock part? I turned the nuts on the top of it and they kept turning. Used vice grips to hold the bushing and everything else that was turning in place and turned it and still no progress. Should the entire top and bottom bracket be removed or should I just be removing the stock dampener?

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

alright. first grab another cold beer. then use the vice grips to hold and center bolt at the top and use an open ended wrench to turn the nut. that should do the trick. and no the bracket should not come out. let us know how this works.

CL-Future

Thanks Distorted. I won't have time to try again until next weekend but I'm sure what you said will work, I didn't think of that, I thought it was part of what I was supposed to be turning. I'll make sure to have a 6 pack of Corona as well

m733l

iTrader: (1)

i just got two of these in today!!! hoping to do this soon. from what i understand i got two 3" bolts one for the front and one for the rear. also picked up some extra nuts and washer just in case. what exactly is it that i need to tighten on the inside of this piece? also does it matter what year civic? reason i ask is bc i ordered the one on this thread but they sent me what looks like the other model but with the "2" crossed out and a "1" hand written in to represent the year i ordered. is there reason to be concerned or it really does not make a difference. i guess i'll find out when i do the install.

CLS6SpeedNupe

im right behind you in a few weeks

J32A26MT

i dunno what the difference is...are both of them the same? what you need to do to tighten the inside is loosen the nuts at the top of the damper, and then tighten the top one first until its tight, then the bottom one to lock it in place, its pretty easy to figure out once you loosen it up. hopefully i explained that correctly, just read through this thread a couple times, theres lots of information in here, Good luck!

m733l

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the info. do you have to torque them or just make sure it's tight?

sinfulj32

which is better, to have the front one or the back one. i only ordered one but until i get the second one i was wondering if i'll notice more on the front or rear

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

THE BACK!!

100% on sure on that one. If you place it in the front alone like I have a few times, it will break like a twig. The design is thus much better suited with the rod being pushed in and not pulled on, hence the rear being the prefered position, unless you can do both which seems to lessen the load on the front unit.

I just replaced my front one and after noticing that it moves in place (you can twist it, pull it up and down a tad etc).

Still waiting on my poly mounts. Those dampeners can only cover up bad engine mounts Got to replace my rear one and the fronts going out too).

Has anyone else noticed how the car feels different when starting, you know... the way the engine moves when started, not saying its good or bad just different.

CLS6SpeedNupe

Bought to get these, do I order the one for the 92-95 civic of 96-00? also to get the front and rear would I just be ordering 2 kits?

Allout

92-95 civic. It's possible that the 96-00 dampener is the same with different mounts that won't be used anyways. Just buy two of the 92-95 civic kits and you should be good to go.

J32A26MT

I agree, the front one moved around and got loose and even came unscrewed when it was the only one i had in. even now with both of them it gets loose sometimes. i find i have to reach in there and hand-tighten both of them every now and then, or after a couple burnouts to make sure they're still tight. WHERE CAN YOU GET POLY MOUNTS FOR THE 6 SPEED? i didn't know they made them!! or i would have done that before even thiinking about these dampers. please let me know where you ordered yours and how long it took your mounts to go (how many miles). Thanks! its springs/headers/CAI/pulley on the way for me!!

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

I bought the mounts as a part of a group buy with C & C Autotuners (the shop that did my swap). You can probably still by them by you should call them yourself and ask: 562 266 3800

The mounts are $400 +shipping/paypal fees. You get both front and back, and they have a lifetime warranty on them. You can get them in three different types of stiffness street, race or drag.

Even with the dampener that I had, up front, I still want to get the engien mounts since the dampeners will try to compensate for my busted engine mount, those stock mounts dont last long at all probably half a year at most, at least for me. The rear mount is busted from underneath and the front one is leaking a little.

NEVERSUMMER

These 92-95 damper's WILL fit our car in the link Above correct?

CLS6SpeedNupe

so all we need is 2 of those?

CL-Future

Correct

m733l

iTrader: (1)

so i finished the intallation of both front and back dampers. it definitely holds that motor in place and puts power down. however, i noticed while i'm inside the car at idle, the car vibrates consistently with the motor. it is pretty damn annoying. it makes things in the cabin rattle that didn't rattle before. true the stock dampers were alot softer but at least my car didn't rattle. my guess is that because the nrg's are stiffer than stock it causes the car to pick up the vibrations of the motor. those with this upgrade, did you or do you notice the same thing? and do you just put up with it? or is there something else that is wrong? please help cuz i would rather put it back to stock and not deal with the vibrating/rattling in the cabin? thanks

tnobori1

PM me if you end up taking em off. I will buy them from you!

CLS6SpeedNupe

wow I hope some people put in some more input on this rattle thing before i get them and make the mistake.

CL-Future

I've only replaced the front so far. Been too lazy to do the rear but I haven't noticed any more rattle than usual...

BigLizard

I would think that a polyurethane bushing might do the trick.

I've seen a CL-S auto on here with the damper hooked up to the OEM strut bar and he used polyurethane bushings to make the rattle sound go away.

CL-Future

Yeah now that you mention it, are those experiencing rattles using the rubber bushings or just all nuts and washers? (I remember someone posting a pic of a setup like this) I used like 3 or 4 rubber bushings, 2 on the top and 2 on the underside of the mounting bracket. That may dampen the rattles a little....

m733l

iTrader: (1)

where can i find these polyurethane bushings?

m733l

iTrader: (1)

4 bushings? did you re-use the stock bushings? and you probably use a longer bolt, right? i thought of doing so but my concern is that the bolt is already long and if i get a longer one i am afraid that it might snap under severe driving. i noticed the stock damper have a bushing on the bottom. is there someway i can mount some bushings to the bottom? or maybe i just need to break them in a bit?

m733l

iTrader: (1)

i replaced the front first and didn't notice anything different. once i got the rears on......holy crap

CL-Future

I think I used a 3"? bolt. I reused the stock bushings as well as the ones that came w/ the kit. I'm not worried about it snapping since almost an inch of it is screwed into the damper. Just make sure the bolt grade is strong enough. I drive pretty aggresively and have had it on for about 3 weeks and everythings still tight.
All this talk about how effective the rear one is will get me in the garage this weekend.

beastman187

coo

CLS6SpeedNupe

year i hear the rear is what makes the biggest difference

m733l

iTrader: (1)

i meant holy crap for the vibrating and rattling. it's pretty unbearable.

CL-Future

I still wanna do it

J32A26MT

not familiar with any rattling, maybe you screwed them in too tight and the engine's vibrations are being absorbed to the car. there definetly shouldn't be any vibration with these installed correctly.

I thought you were referring to mount bushings, i didn't know you replaced the entire mounts, thats expensive, does energy suspension make any inserts for the 6MT??

Blasted69

Can someone please write up an exact parts list of what is needed beyond what is included in the kit? I would really appreciate it.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

And please some feedback. Sounds like this mod from what I've read is great for wheel hop, but bad for ride comfort. And then after it's done you need to poly your mounts to get it smooth again.
On top of that now you need 2? Not just the front? And they come loose?

I'm doing a bunch of small upgrades that have come up to my car, but not sure on this 1.

Also, where is that other damper mod? The 1 where it was attached to the power steering pump.

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

print this out. basically you need the bolt and the 2 nuts. everything else is included.

i have not had any trouble with mine coming loose. this alone did not cure wheel hop at all. and i don't see how filling the mounts will increase the ride smoothness..??

CL-Future

Mine hasn't come loose. No noticeable ride discomfort or vibrations for me, I only have the front done so far. The rear even though it looks accessible, looks hard to get a rachet in to take it apart, that and the fact that I've been lazy. But I guess if I can do headers I can attack the rear damper. Back to the subject...I noticed less wheel hop and it's easier to spin the tires off the line. It didn't eliminate it completely though, but it's definitely an improvement especially for $60. Plus from what I hear, the rear one makes more of a difference.

rp_guy

has anyone else done this mod on the front AND back ? and can comment on the additional harshness and vibration ? it would make sense that there would be an increase on this, as the old dampers 'absorbed' it while the new ones 'transfer' it..

CLS6SpeedNupe

i second this question since im about to do my suspension within these next weeks

m733l

iTrader: (1)

i've done both front and back...it's pretty noticeable. i planning on puttong the oem back on as soon as i find some time.

CLS6SpeedNupe

why?

sinfulj32

^werd. why ?